1:48.130 in 10 laps.
The best lap in the first 6 was 1:48.870, but I knew I could make up some time and didn't want to be accused of being unfair, so I ran some extra laps, until I got what I felt was a good representation of your tune JG.
Default: 1:50.738
JG: 1:48.130 (-2.608)
Close, but no go.
As for notes on your tune, if you're interested.
Rear traction isn't any better. Your 2-3 shift is dangerous when performed with any steering angle. The car is too stiff and suffers in the tighter turns. The front tires get over stressed on hard braking, might want to look into the bias. It doesn't seem to like to transition from 1 turn into the next when there isn't enough room for the car to settle, so sector one, where it's back and forth esses for the first 6-8 turns was rough and I wasn't making any real ground on the ghost here. Seems to want to drift to the outside one exits, a hint of understeer there, partially masked by the cars lack of rear grip, which makes it 'feel' loose, but it's actually a deception.
Both runs with RS or only JG´s?
Because you said "Everything at default" and I don´t believe the stock one has RS on.
raVer
Check the definition of default. You're thinking of 'stock'.
Huge difference.
The context of the thread makes it rather clear.
The debate is whether a tune can make the OP gain 3-5 seconds per lap at Laguna or Suzuka.
Slump and myself said no. (Well, I actually said Suzuka was possible, but would take a really good tune)
JG and Cykosis said yes.
@ Cykosis, I'm willing to bet that was 80% driver/car/track learning curve.
No way in hell tuning can shave 8 seconds off of Trial Mountain.
I'd literally have to drive blind folded to see an 8 second difference.
I'm sorry, but I can't believe it. NEVER!![]()
Default = a preset value when a setting has not been specified by the user.
Doesn´t include tyres then?
raVer
OP. I feel you are over thinking this issue.
I just bought a ZR-1 and went through this drill to see if I could help at all
Suzuka
Stock; Sports Hard 218.9
RM (all default); Racing Hard 212.0
RM Max Downforce; Racing Hard 210.0
Adjusted suspension
Set HP at 502; Weight at 1130 (sorry I didn't see 1150); PP 616
RM Max Downforce; Racing Soft 158.9
With no upgrades on the car and gearbox at default, I adjusted suspension slightly and put the ballast at -10 for a 49/51 distribution
Suspension changes
Toe front -.12 rear .15
Camber front 1.5
Front Springs to 12.5
No other changes to car.
This is an unusual combination for the ZR-1 RM. Are you trying to run with some GT500 cars?
Anyway, about the ballast. I didn't like 50/50 because the car understeered more.
I did this with a wheel and all aids off except ABS=1.
With some tweaking and a better driver, you could probably drop that lap time a few more seconds.
Hope this gives you some ideas about what to do with your car.
Find me a button that says 'reset to default' on the tire option menu. 👍
There are lots of things you can´t 'reset to default'
raVer
No GT500's. Everyone is using the ZR-1 RM. I appreciate the effort! I did try the Max downforce but backed it off a little to save tire wear. Definitely, have some ideas! Working on gearing. Suped up the Kublewagon for online racing and worked the gear like mentioned early in this post. Was able to drop 3 seconds off it's time. The rest of the suspension tune is a steep learning curve for me. Having zero experience with it. But it's fun and I'm always game for a challenge! Thanks again for spending your hard earned cash on this! Appreciate the ideas a bunch!
1:48.130 in 10 laps.
The best lap in the first 6 was 1:48.870, but I knew I could make up some time and didn't want to be accused of being unfair, so I ran some extra laps, until I got what I felt was a good representation of your tune JG.
Default: 1:50.738
JG: 1:48.130 (-2.608)
Close, but no go.
As for notes on your tune, if you're interested.
Rear traction isn't any better. Your 2-3 shift is dangerous when performed with any steering angle. The car is too stiff and suffers in the tighter turns. The front tires get over stressed on hard braking, might want to look into the bias. It doesn't seem to like to transition from 1 turn into the next when there isn't enough room for the car to settle, so sector one, where it's back and forth esses for the first 6-8 turns was rough and I wasn't making any real ground on the ghost here. Seems to want to drift to the outside one exits, a hint of understeer there, partially masked by the cars lack of rear grip, which makes it 'feel' loose, but it's actually a deception.
BTW, we're doing this on R3 tires right?
1. I'm worked up about whose minor levels of incompetence and lack of knowledge?Ok then, leave it to Adrenaline to do the driving, you provide the tune for the car. If things don't go to plan and the 'vette isn't faster by at least 3 seconds, then you drive to prove your point.
And I don't know about you guys, but do you think the good doctor Slump is getting a bit………worked up about these relatively minor levels of incompetence and lack of knowledge now?
-
Oh…right…damn my tired eyes……so is the tune getting near the 3 second target?
Well, you can sure gain 5 seconds if you change tyres from stock to RS
No seriously, I think it is easy possible to do because when you take out a new car and drive your first 5 laps, then go to change the first settings! Then a lot of the time you gain is a learning curve effect... on the other hand if it is a car, that you know very good and start over tuning from scratch, then I don't believe you can shave off up to 5 seconds. I should take this as a new goal sometime...
How can I be ignorant when there's nothing to see?I'm actually quite 🤬 tempted to do so, you ignorant 🤬
I thought......:Lol, relax. I am calm. I am very calm. I AM TOTALLY 🤬 CALM! Nah, JK ;D And yes, 3 seconds on Suzuka should be acheivable. Maybe not by me, but my RJ or Roj or the likes, maybe. 2 seconds should be easy though.
Tuning can easily take 3-4 seconds off on a track like Suzuka or Nurb GP/F, to whoever said that.
It's the ZR1 RM which drives even stock great. And we are only talking about the tune. Learning curve and similar should be avoided in the test. The test should be done with exactly the same tuning parts, of course.
Oh and I don't count Aerodynamic to the tune, because "just max it" isn't that difficult.
You don't count Aero? So, you say that max aero is always the fastest? I'm not sure about that one...
Fairly often, I'd say yes.
Front aero should almost always be maxed.
Rear aero, on the other hand, is a different story.
That's the problem in GT5 that the Aero doesn't make a big difference in topspeed. Max aero is in the most cases the fastest.I agree with maxed front aero and rear I sometimes set it as low as possible, that the car still feels stable or on low powered cars that don't need it on high speeds because they don't drive fast enough. I car not reaching 250 km/h doesn't need rear downforce and probably gains more form the 2 km/h more top speed, no?
That's the problem in GT5 that the Aero doesn't make a big difference in topspeed. Max aero is in the most cases the fastest.
Disagree with you. I've max aero'd and the car is definitely slower.
Lol, the only track where downforce slows you down,(overall lap times) is Daytona.
Top speed, sure, but top speed isn't nearly as important as corner speed.
...and nurb. i've found i usually beat DF cars on the ring in a streetcar at the same PP level. it's a HP track.