Need settings for high speed stability

  • Thread starter Rudedog_27
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Rudedog_27

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I see other threads about the Minolta wing dragging. Don't know if its the same thing but I cant seem to keep my high speed cars stable at high speeds. Like my Minolta and R92. I've tried so many setting. Some has improved it. :) But once I get over the 250mph mark it seems to be a magnet to the wall :ouch: So if anyone can give me settings for the minolta that would be great :cheers: I don't know if it makes any difference but its straight as an arrow in B-spec. Thanks in advance.

Rudy
 
i find generally that raising the suspension (esp in rear) and softening it all round tends to help. Also depending on the track reducing downforce a tad can be an advantage. My R92 runs sarthe II about a second quicker with about 50/70 DF - but that's in B-spec - so your driving style may need that extra downforce.
 
Rudedog_27
I'm actually looking for A-spec settings :-)
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A-spec - B-spec - the DF reduction shouldn't matter. I just find for my own purposes i need all the DF i can get to cope with my sometimes non-ideal lines in high speed corners (ie i am not as good as Bob in those). Main benefit is significantly higher top speed for the straight (both me and bob) at the slight expense of handling ability in some of the fast corners. Obviously this will depend mostly on the track - but for sartheII i know it is quicker to reduce DF.
 
I tend to run around stock ride height on the race cars but will typically stiffen them up all around and run max DF. I also tend to run around 3.0/1.5 ish camber on the group C cars. Helps the turn in a tad. I tend to adjust my suspension by the power and weight of the car and the drive type. I run softer with less camber on lighter less powerful cars and stiffer and more camber on heavier cars (I run 3.5/1.8 on my GTRs with springs in the 16ish range due to the fact that GTRs are quite heavy).

on my minolta I run 18.0/18.0 spring rates, 70mm ride height F & R, leave the shocks alone, 3.0/1.5 camber, zero toe, stabs at 6 F & R, no change in weight dist, and max DF. Cornering speeds are very high but I get the tail dragging issue which limits the car to 230 without NOS.
 
I hate to bring this up, but if you can't solve stability problems any other way, there is a setting of last resort to turn to: Oversteer ASM.

It doesn't take much. Settings of 3 to 5 will do it. If you're to the point of giving up on a car because you often find yourself up against walls facing backward with it, try Oversteer ASM. It salvaged the Peugeot 905 for me.
 
downforce doesn't even affect top-speed.

however, you also don't get the downforce angles from GT2 and GT3, and i KNOW i lost top speed in GT2 from maxed out downforce.

in GT4, it isn't even worth changing downforce on rally cars because they only get ridiculously weak 10-20 angles.

and most stock cars are lucky to get 30-35.

some race level cars like the LM cars or the cadillac cien get the extreme angles but you don't notice anything because the cars are so damn powerful.
 
Zardoz
Yes, it does.
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my CR-X wasn't affected. i had 15/10 at some point before maxing it out and my top speed didn't suffer anything noticeable.

like i mentionned before, the downforce angles for most production cars aren't as high as what the previous games offered.

i figure only the high powered race cars would be affected in any way because they're the ones with the high angles.
 
dudejo
my CR-X wasn't affected.
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Dude, do a little test for us. Take your CR-X, or any other car with adjustable downforce, to the test track - max speed. do a couple runs with max downforce to work out your gears and figure out what your top speed is. Then do a run with no downforce. Then come back and post your findings. Unless you have found a car that disobeys the laws of physics (GT4 physics at least), then i guarantee that you will be getting a higher top speed out of the zero DF setup.
 
Generally you want to keep the car glued to the ground and as low as possible when doin high speed. Using more downforce in the rear and higher grip tires so you can take the car to its max will definately give it that extra stability. Also try setting the front toe angle to 3 so response is taken down a notch. not only will that give the car more grip in turns, it will make turning more stable and precise. Stability management computers especially oversteer will give better results and stabilizers need to be set pretty low aswell. Thats pretty much it...
 
Ezz777
Dude, do a little test for us. Take your CR-X, or any other car with adjustable downforce, to the test track - max speed. do a couple runs with max downforce to work out your gears and figure out what your top speed is. Then do a run with no downforce. Then come back and post your findings. Unless you have found a car that disobeys the laws of physics (GT4 physics at least), then i guarantee that you will be getting a higher top speed out of the zero DF setup.
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i'm talking racetrack conditions here, not stereotypical NASCAR racing.

on a track, the max downforce isn't killing my top speed.

maybe it would on the test track but afaik, CR-X'es would only be used for testing purposes there.
 
dudejo
on a track, the max downforce isn't killing my top speed.
QUOTE]

That's correct - because in general the straights aren't long enough. I guess your reference to top speed was why i guessed you were talking test track. I have found very few tracks where anything less than full downforce is quicker. The one main exception so far is sarthe II
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It may hurt your mid-speed cornering a little, but try some toe in on the rear wheels (positive numbers).
 
negative toe on my CR-X? done.

not sure if it affects anything though. the tire wear didn't even increase.

btw, would 30/20 downforce benefit a FWD?
 

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