New TGT behaving oddly

[M_A_N_I_M_A_L]

Hello everybody,

This is my first post on this forum. I was reading it for years but never bothered to register and post. I own a T-GT wheel for the last 8 months and I also had issues with it. It happened to me twice when I was in the race my wheel just gets stuck and it won't turn. My wheel was always updated to its latest firmware. The first time it happened I connected it to my lap top, reinstalled the latest firmware and after restarting the laptop the wheel started to calibrate, but the second time the same issue happened and after countless times of doing everything that I could have it did not work. I disconnected all the wires, got the wheel off of my racing rig and was waiting from the Thrustmaster's reply. After a couple of days of waiting for the reply I assembled it back on my racing rig, connected it to my lap top to try the firmware re installation process again and miraculously the wheel started calibrating. On top of that 3 days ago the brake spring broke. Prior to this wheel I had and am still having T-150 wheel. I drove approximately 92 000 miles in GT Sport and including F1 games I drove well over 100 000 miles with it and only once I experienced a calibrating issue which I resolved very fast.

So, to conclude this, the T-GT wheel is great for GT Sport game when working properly but there are so many issues with it that there shouldn't have been for the price we paid.

 

[super_gt]

it uses old optical encoder tech (like ancient computer mice) to sense steering input. It's very sensitive to dust and debris

Let's hope that they will replace the optical encoder with hall sensor in future CSL Elite v2 version.

 

[dejkoo]

Let's hope that they will replace the optical encoder with hall sensor in future CSL Elite v2 version.

Do you know when will be V2?

 

[super_gt]

Do you know when will be V2?

No.

 

[Skinny McLean]

[M]y wheel just gets stuck and it won't turn.

If I were you I'd get that wheel replaced asap - before the warranty period ends.

Let's hope that they will replace the optical encoder with hall sensor in future CSL Elite v2 version.

Indeed. Though I suspect the reason fanatec decided to use optical encoders was solely to create a difference between the csl and the csw line - it surely can't be many cents they've saved on the BOM for not employing Hall effect sensors. Even entry-level wheels like the t150 g29 and the g920 has them.

 

[super_gt]

Even entry-level wheels like the t150s and g29s (and their xbox brethren) has them.

The T150 also has optical encoder but with much lower resolution 4,096 values on the wheel’s steering axis.

 

[dejkoo]

What is exactly problem in csl

 

[Skinny McLean]

The T150 also has optical encoder but with much lower resolution 4,096 values on the wheel’s steering axis.

@super_gt thank you for the heads up - I've edited my post accordingly.

 

[Zipperface]

No it's not, it's the result of letting go of the wheel - and if you like your ffb that light you wont need anything beyond a T150 or G29.

You must love clipping, have fun with your 10/10 setting.

 

[Skinny McLean]

You must love clipping, have fun with your 10/10 setting.

First of all, and as previously stated in this thread, my ffb settings are 6/8 - not 10/10 - and I am not experiencing any clipping. I don't go higher for the sake of my wrists and not the wheel.

Secondly, the suggestion in your first post that 97 out of the 100 possible combinations of settings are overloading the tgt is, quite frankly, preposterous.

But thank you for your concern and have a happy new year.

 

[Zipperface]

And my tgt have been working '10/10' for 20 months, btw.

 

[FPV MIC]

I don't think he's talking about FFB and torque there @Zipperface, but more like ten out of ten performance wise (like a score/rating).

I'm sure @Skinny McLean will correct me if I'm wrong. It wouldn't be a first for me.

 

[ah_ya_beast]

I have just picked up a T-GT 2 off ebay and it was doing exactly the same thing, I have figured out how to fix it on my unit, this may not work for all.

Updated to latest Thrustmaster firmware 10.0 at time of writing.

I normally turn all power off at the plug every night. When I switch everything on, the unit wobbles abit in the middle, then it appears to go into the normal self calibration spin left/right. However it spins left and stays there. If I rotate the wheel it will spin right and stay there, then if I touch it again, it will centre and begin the 90 deg left to right non-stop turning until I dampen it by touching it lightly to an eventual stop. Even after it has stopped it does not work at this stage and snaps in the opposite direction to what you push it a few degrees. Quite dangerous in this state!

What works on mine randomly, is to leave it plugged in and on for 10 minutes with all cables attached as normal (PS5 on). After this time it will randomly sort itself out, complete the self calibration and be ready for hours of pounding.

If I leave everything connected and switched on at the wall (but PS5 off), it will seem to be okay the next morning. On the odd occasion I have to wait for it to sort itself out.

I am no power electronics expert but the problem seems to be power related. As if some capacitors inside the unit need time to charge up fully.

It most likely has something to do with the fact that I am using a non-standard (non Thrustmaster) power supply brick which is advertised as being compatible with the T500 and TS-XW wheels. Given it has the same plug and more amps than required by the T-GT 2 I figured this would work fine. I have also read elsewhere that the 4-pin power supplies between the Thrustmaster units are interchangeable, even though the T-GT 2 one is dressed up to look like a turbocharger. Thrustmaster quoted me approximately £120 for a new power supply alone (including shipping to UK) which is why I went with a third party one off ebay for around £20.

If you are using a genuine power supply and still having these problems, then it is probably something inside the wheel base and/or, something at fault with your power supply.

I notice that Thrustmaster do not list the T-GT 2 power supply on their website as an accessory (at the time of writing). I opened a case with them and they responded with the price.

Hope this helps someone out there. I ran a T300 for around 5 years without a single problem. The T-GT 2 is statistically not as reliable it seems, although a very good wheel base when working. Feels like a T300 on steroids. Very familiar force feedback feeling with added detail throughout.