New wheel and wheel mods....

  • Thread starter Ian JB
  • 33 comments
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Lessons learned indeed!!! Seat modified. No crushed doodahs! Steering wheel set 75mm further away from me. Pedals raised and angled. Awesome!

I am already between 0.5 and 1.5 seconds quicker on selected "test" tracks, that I had set times on just before the conversion to a wheel.

There is one issue I have and I suspect its me rather than the wheel or the game physics....

I have found it utterly impossible to correct or "catch" a spin out. Is there a knack to this please?

Thoroughly thoroughly delighted with it all so far.

Best regards.


Ian.
Well, controller has an in-built steering assist to catch spins, apart from the counter-steering assist.
If you have ever tried drifting on a controller, it's much easier than on a wheel. I too found it impossible to catch a spin when first starting out, and I'm still not fully proficient at it.
I would suggest driving the 458 GT3 on Sports tires without TCS. Unlike the RS01 or Amuse S2000, which other people have suggested, the 458 is a little more 'catchable' to me at least.
The Corvette on RH tires at Lago Maggiore without TCS is a great choice too, it's extremely easy to catch that car. I've also heard the Genesis being great but I haven't driven it.
Again, like @kilesa4568 said it's just a matter of time and experience.

@Philtaylor17 I believe you had suggested S2000 on CH, Fuji once?
 
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Driving on dirt is good for feeling the slide...
If you are spinning it’s for this reason 99 percent...
You are holding onto big steering angle (wheel turned too far) too long past the apex and adding throttle at the same time...
Proper fundamentally correct way is adding steering to maximum degree of turn AT APEX NOT AFTER APEX. Wheel should be all the way turned by the apex cone, AFTER APEX the steering has to be unwinding, if you’re sensitive you can feel it “wanting” to unwind...
There’s some cases and combos yes on some street cars where the steering is held a bit longer past apex but only certain turns at absolute maximum in rarely used cars.
Basically it’s very likely your steering is “late” your max wheel turn is happening AFTER apex then your on throttle. That’s what you usually see most doing in a non fundamentally correct way.
It may not be your case but anyways that’s what I often see on average drivers replays...
In most cases as long as steering is unwinding you can add power without inducing a spin.
 
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Hello again,

If you are spinning it’s for this reason 99 percent...


I would go 100% on that one!

Having changed some settings on the wheel I can now feel the spin coming - So much so, I managed to catch my first one yesterday. The shout of joy and happiness frightened both dogs and the wife!!!

Best regards.

Ian.
 
Lessons learned indeed!!! Seat modified. No crushed doodahs! Steering wheel set 75mm further away from me. Pedals raised and angled. Awesome!

I am already between 0.5 and 1.5 seconds quicker on selected "test" tracks, that I had set times on just before the conversion to a wheel.

There is one issue I have and I suspect its me rather than the wheel or the game physics....

I have found it utterly impossible to correct or "catch" a spin out. Is there a knack to this please?

Thoroughly thoroughly delighted with it all so far.

Best regards.


Ian.

It's going to take a while to be confident catching spins. Back in GT5P when I did my transition it took me around half a year until I can confidently say I'm back to my controller level of countersteering. And being able to drift takes even longer.

My suggestion would be pick a slow road car, something like Miata or GT86. Put Comfort Hards and just run laps around Tsukuba or Suzuka East. Don't try to drift, just try to drive fast and you'll have oversteer moments naturally. Because it's slow and the tyres don't have a lot of grip, you have a lot of margin for correcting and you'll get used to the feel and timing. Basically, the faster you're driving, the faster your countersteer has to be. If you try to drive a Gr.3 car straight away you're not gonna have the timing right - when people watch me counter they always say it looks more violent than it feels to me.

Also turning down the FFB Torque will help. With the G25 I used 3-4, and with T-GT I used 2. Your wheel is closer to T-GT so just give 1-3 a try. The other 2 settings (CSS and FFS) are personal preference really, they're really subtle and I would just leave them default for now.
 
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