One Make Races - Japan

[shepzki]

Mazda Roadster Cup

Not sure if there is a lineup in this thread, I did search but didn't find one. Anyway here is mine:

NTSC lineup 1 - Championship:

SR Limited (J) 97
VR Limited (J) 95
1.8 RS (J) 98
S Special Type I (J) 95
1800 RS (J) 00
SR Limited (J) 97 >>>> Me

Non power mods, 30,000+ miles, Old oil, NOS, S2, 119BHP on settings screen.

I also qualified in first for all races, just added an S3 turbo for that.

Very easy.

 

[drewerz01]

NISSAN MICRA BROTHERS 600 POINTS!

I used a Nissan March '03 from the used car lot, ALL Non Power Mods, Used Oil, S1 Tyres, 15 Ballast weight, Semi-Racing Exhaust, Chip, NOS 65 & G/Box Auto Set 4! (Auto Set 3 for Autumn Ring & Suzuka)
Be sure you have Line Up #1 (you need 2 PAO's in the line-up for 200 points)

The above set up is particularly good for 200 points on Grand Valley East, however you may need to lose the Chip & Semi-Racing Exhaust & you may also need to increase the Ballast weight to get 200 points on Autumn Ring & Suzuka
The reason for this is I did all of these races in order and found I could easily win the first 2 with NO power mods & I had more ballast weight too (60) but at Grand Valley I didn't have a chance with that set-up so after a few tests & resets I had found the above set-up for 200 points & a fairly easy win

 

[AMG.]

Welcome to GTPlanet drewerz01. Good first post. 👍 Euh, what's a POA?
Will you be going for max too?

AMG.

 

[GTsail]

NISSAN MICRA BROTHERS 600 POINTS!

I used a Nissan March '03 from the used car lot, ALL Non Power Mods, Used Oil, S1 Tyres, 15 Ballast weight, Semi-Racing Exhaust, Chip, NOS 65 & G/Box Auto Set 4! (Auto Set 3 for Autumn Ring & Suzuka)
Be sure you have Line Up #1 (you need 2 POA's in the line-up for 200 points)...

Welcome aboard Drewerz01, its nice to see new faces.

Welcome to GTPlanet drewerz01. Good first post. 👍 Euh, what's a POA?
Will you be going for max too?

AMG.

I think Drewerz01 means a Nissan PAO '89 that shows up in these races.

Respectfully
GTsail290

 

[drewerz01]

Welcome to GTPlanet drewerz01. Good first post. 👍 Euh, what's a POA?
Will you be going for max too?

AMG.

Thank you AMG for the warm welcome & kind comments:tup:
My goal on my current game is to achieve 100000 A-Spec points whilst maintaining my Win Ratio of 100%... As of today I am 54.8% complete with 63347 A-Spec points with 100% Win Ratio
Btw... You will notice that I have omitted my error from my first post Embarrassing though it was, Thank you for the keen eye AMG

 

[drewerz01]

Type-R Meeting 1000 Points!

I used a '98 Integra Type-R (DC2) with all non power mods, Used Oil, S2 Tyres, Racing Exhaust, Chip, NOS 55, 25 Ballast weight....
I found Line Up #1 (with an '02 NSX usually in P5) to be the easiest with this set-up but if you add more ballast weight & fiddle the power some more there are many other line ups for 200 points!
I found I had to change the Auto-Setting for the F/C Transmission almost every race to make the win easier, These settings are...

Twin Ring Motegi - 7
Autumn Ring B - 6
Suzuka - 4
Driving Park: Motor Sports Land II B - 4
Tsukuba - 5

These were not the easiest 1000 points in the game in fact I had to constantly block all the way almost & never had any NOS left at the end... Very Challenging in this car for Maximum points... Good Braking & Perseverance is what wins this tournament

Note:With line up #1 you may not notice at first but when you get to the 2nd to last or indeed the last lap of each race, that '02 NSX has been working its way into 2nd place & once there it will be banging around on your bumper all the way to the end & you will have to constantly look behind & block its way as it is much faster than the '98 Integra in a straight line... Its a real pain in the AR:censored:

 

[drewerz01]

Civic Race 1000 Points!

I used a '79 Civic 1500 3Door CX with all non power mods, S1 tyres, NOS 80, FC Transmission Auto-set 3, 190 Ballast weight & Line up #1

Easy 1000 points



Group "RE"

I used an '85 RX-7 GT-Limited (FC,J) with All non power mods, Used Oil, S2 Tyres, Racing Exhaust, Chip, Stage 1 Turbo, Sports Inter-cooler, NOS 60, FC Transmission Auto-set 3, NO Ballast Weight....
Line up #1 or #2 but be advised... I found #2 to be a slightly harder line up than #1 due to it being mostly newer generation RX-7's & 2 RX-8's all with more power as standard... But I still beat #2 twice no problem

Fairly easy 1000 points!

 

[Austin343]

I'm sure we all know that there are many maximum A-Spec point races that can be won not only without cheating but also with completely clean passes, etc. Well, I found an unexpected race in which an immaculate run (absolutely no AI contact, no wall contact, and no tires ever touching grass/sand/runoff/etc.) is possible: the Copen race at Autumn Ring Mini. With a lot of practice, I finally came up with a run in which I never clipped grass and no AI car ever tapped me after I passed it. jbrennen's excellent settings (although they are for Motorland, they still work well at the wider and faster track), plus my own change of N2 rear tires rather than N3s, make such a run possible with some effort. I have the replay saved if anyone is curious to see it.

 

[Popeye]

I would like to see it Austin343. Not because I don't believe but because I got to do these myself. Congratulations on it by the way.

 

[GTsail]

I'm sure we all know that there are many maximum A-Spec point races that can be won not only without cheating but also with completely clean passes, etc. Well, I found an unexpected race in which an immaculate run (absolutely no AI contact, no wall contact, and no tires ever touching grass/sand/runoff/etc.) is possible: the Copen race at Autumn Ring Mini. With a lot of practice, I finally came up with a run in which I never clipped grass and no AI car ever tapped me after I passed it. jbrennen's excellent settings (although they are for Motorland, they still work well at the wider and faster track), plus my own change of N2 rear tires rather than N3s, make such a run possible with some effort. I have the replay saved if anyone is curious to see it.

Great Work Austin343! I believe!

This race is one that I still have trouble with. It was a good idea to switch to N2 tires in the rear. I've done this in two other races myself. It seems to help turning when you have N1 tires on the front because the balance of the car is better (I think this would only be a help for FF cars).

GTsail290

 

[Austin343]

Thanks, Popeye and GTsail. I've since redone some other difficult races with the intent of finishing them more cleanly, and mostly had success. In the "immaculate" category go the two easy Crossfire races, two of the Saleen races (El Capitan (with no nitrous equipped, and an MOV of 13 seconds), and Infineon), the Copen race at Tsukuba (easy), the Daihatsu Midget race (easy), the Subaru 360 race (easy), and two Suzuki Concepts races (Motegi West and Seattle). In the "much cleaner than before" category go the other three Saleen races (mostly clean except the first-turn wallride all four laps at SSR5, completely clean except for lap 1 shortcuts on Sarthe, and completely clean except for cutting the final chicane all three laps at Suzuka) and the Suzuki Concepts race at Tsukuba (two tires on track at all times, one accidental minor AI contact, and lots of blocking on lap 3). The list will grow as I go back through all the races I did carelessly when I first went after points, and I will have videos of my better races as soon as I can find the camera!

 

[RaidoGT]

I've since redone some other difficult races with the intent of finishing them more cleanly, and mostly had success. In the "immaculate" category go the two easy Crossfire races, two of the Saleen races (El Capitan (with no nitrous equipped,

Just wanted to note (no NOS): <Hat goes off deeply in appropriate awe and respect>.

 

[Austin343]

There's no need to take off your hat. The AI drives so poorly there that the only challenge is to pass them without accidentally touching them, which is tough with inferior tires, extra ballast, and of course their obliviousness to you. Once past, as you can tell by my MOV, the only challenge is keeping it clean by not accidentally running wide or clipping a corner. In most of the other hardest maximum-point races, the combination of the last-place start, inferior straight-line speed, and (theoretically) inferior cornering speed makes nitrous a necessity if you want a clean race.

Here's the video of the Copen Race that I promised:


As you can probably tell, don't forget to short-shift, because the car's powerband falls off at high revs. Also, so that you don't get wheelspin while applying the nitrous, it's better to stay in third gear. I'm sure I could have made the race easier for myself by shortening the gears, but I knew I could win with jbrennen's settings exactly (except for the rear tires). Another reason why I didn't bother to fiddle with the setup is because the most minute changes to how you drive have enormous impacts on how the AI cars behave, and will thus make irrelevant any strategy you had developed concerning how to pass them.


Also, I have the clean Suzuki Concepts race at Seattle video. I have a much-improved run with the concepts at Tsukuba, as well, if anyone wants to see it.



Staying in third gear is best, but even then, the car wheelspins away all the power from the nitrous. What I did, if you can hear it, was to quickly tap the nitrous button so that the wheels would have time to regain traction in between the small bursts. In fourth gear, there's no problem and you can just hold down the nitrous button.

 

[SuperCobraJet]

After viewing your videos Austin I feel compelled to offer a hearty commendation on a job well done. 👍

Knowing how difficult it is to complete those races, I must say you have taken the task to a new level.

Likewise I am impressed with your tenacity to push the limit beyond the status quo.

I feel confident you will soon be joining the ranks of the max. pt. club.

 

[Austin343]

Thanks for the compliment, SCJ. Since my only remaining points are in the Nurburgring 24 Hour endurance, and attaining those is a matter of when and not if I can get them, I'm just redoing the harder races for fun to see if I can complete them more neatly and cleanly. I was not a very good driver when I first completed all the one-make races, so I'm mostly having success with those new goals.

This is my more recent Suzuki Concepts race at Tsukuba. It isn't totally clean, as I tapped one car in the second corner and received some bumps from behind once in first place, but it isn't a joke of a race like my first success, which included a couple outrageous maneuvers (e.g. intentionally being T-boned to stop the leader's momentum). I found that the only way I could win without shortcuts or AI-riding was to burn through the nitrous in two laps to pass the leader, and then block for the whole last lap. You can do so successfully if you make sure to stay in the middle of the track exiting the last corner; go wide and the GSX will blow by.

 

[Tetraeder]

This posting attempts to add some small improvements over previous postings on this subject. The first 40 NTSC grids were tested, and by diligent work, B-spec Bob was able to diminish horsepower of the Suzuki Alto Lapin down to a puny 55. The 30th grid, consisting of RS-Z, Sport Ltd, MR Wagon Sport and two Cappuccino's yielded 200 A-spec points @ 158kg ballast, and the 29th grid, which swapped an R RR (the sound of laughter?) for the Wagon Sport, gave up 200 points for 180 kg ballast.

NOS @ 100
N1/N3 tires
6.5/9.5
106/106
1/10
1/10
3.0/1.0
-1/+1
3/5
aids 0/0/0
brakes 3/4

Tranny trick with final at 5.000
Ballast +50 to the rear
VCD @ 10

Suzuki K-Car Cup

Finished last night the last two races for max points at Motorland and Autumn Ring which I had for 191 each so far. I used a worn out Alto Lapin Turbo with the above settings of Dotini. Thank you for that Dotini.

I started with Autumn Ring and tried grid #9 in my PAL version with a Sport Ltd in front followed by a Cappuccino for 200 with 180 ballast. Didn´t work, couldn´t catch the leader in time. So tried to scroll to grid #29 and #30 to do the two races back to back. Unfortunately they didn´t show up. One of them I found, it was about grid #60 (PAL), lost count some time. Was able to beat Autumn Ring in 3rd try after getting used to car and track.

Next Motorland. Unfortunately in PAL there was no back to back line-up for 200 as described by Dotini. Had to search again and made a quick preview of Sarthe I to insert some extra line-ups. The 10th grid after prewiew had the recommended RS-Z in front and the Cappuccinos in 3rd and 4th. Don´t know if the preview made a difference. If yes that could have saved me a lot of time if done in the beginning. Man that was a wild race with some cutting corners, crash turning and interference of opponents. Took me about 10 tries, because of some stupid mistakes.

Altogether it took me about 2 hours to pick up 18 missing points, mostly spend for searching line-ups

 

[Dotini]

An hilarious and easy win for the maximum 166 points was taken at Motorland in the Copen event this morning after only 3 tries. Mov 3+ seconds.

After a Sarthe I preview, the first lineup was 4 Detachables with an Active Top on pole. So I went for it even though my Active Top was not as close to 5th place as it perhaps is on some other lineups.

With a big tip of the hat to Stigs Tibecuadorianco over at the GTVault, Austin343 and Open Addict here at the GTPlanet, the biggest keys to driving tactics were short-shifting (staying in the highest possible gear) and leaning tactics in the corners.

My setup was at some variance to what has been posted in the past. I will not claim it as better, only different.

56 hp on sell screen
N1/N2 tires
Brakes 1/8
Springs: 6.2/4.1
Ride Height: 69/83
Bound: 1/8
Rebound: 4/9
Camber: 2.7/1.2
Toe: 0/+4
Stabilizers: 2/7
Gears: Tranny Trick with autoset 1, Final 5.300
Aids: 0/0/0
LSD: 5/5/5
Ballast 192 @ -50
Rigidity: Yes
Manual shift: Yes

Edit 10/2/09:
This morning 166 A-spec points were achieved at the Autumn Ring Mini. This was easily done in only three tries with the same setup as above. MOV was almost 2 seconds. The other Copens seemed soporific. They all rolled over and died for me. Maybe after a Sarthe I preview they go into some kind of go-slower mode?

A marginal setup improvement is the finding that only 192 kg ballast need be carried, not the full 200.

 

[GTsail]

Daihatsu Copen Race - Autumn Ring Mini - for 166 A-spec points

Done! Last night, inspired by Dotini's success at Motorland, I took my worn out Copen (it has 41,000 miles) to Autumn Ring Mini, and did not rest until I was able to knock off the Copens.

Against the favored lineup with four Detachables. My Daihatsu Copen Active Top '02 had all non-point upgrades, the rigidity increase and refreshed rigidity. My Copen had 56 HP at the sell screen and weighted 1026kg. My suspension settings seem to be a mixture of Jbrennen's and Dotini's (thanks to both of you).👍

My Settings were as follows:
Tires N1/N2
NOS 100
Brakes 1/9
Springs 6.5/5.0
Ride height 77/85
Bound 1/8
Rebound 3/9
Camber 2.5/1.2
Toe 0/+4
Stabilizers 2/7
Tranny trick, auto set 1, then Final to 5.400
Aids 0/0/0
Ltd-slip 5/20/5
Ballast at 196, and -35 to the front

Like Dotini and Austin343 say, use a manual transmission and shift early.

Unlike Dotini, who seems to have breezed past the Copen's, it took me quite a few tries to best the Copens at ARM for the coveted 166 points. After running the race about thirty times for points from 150 to 165 (my win ratio was about 50% during this practice phase), I then ran the race at 166 points and won on my second try. I have the replay, which shows decent driving, and then one moment where I abused the first place car for a pass into the lead. During my practice races, I did not always have to abuse the first place car to win, but on the 166 point race, winning was all important!

From running this race so many times now (perhaps 50 times in total), its my feeling that the suspension settings don't have to be exactly perfect. What seems to be more important is using the manual transmission and shifting early, plus it never hurts to lean on a couple of Copens as you pass them.. My quess is that the rigidity increase must play a roll as well, since I had far better luck in this race once I had this done to my Copen.

GTsail290

 

[Smallhorses]

Finding some leftover points in the Manufacturers Races for Japan.

Trying to complete the Evolution Meeting under Mitsubishi for 600 NOS-free points, and here's what I came up with:

Clubman Stage Route 5:
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR '01 (~9800 miles, used, no oil) 284HP on garage screen.
Racing Brakes
Full Custom Suspension
Full Custom Gearbox
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
1.5way Differential
AYC
Carbon Driveshaft
VCD
N3 tyres!
+112 kg Ballast vs. Lineup 11 after console reset.
200 point race which can be won cleanly after enough attempts to avoid silly AI lunges are made.

Settings:
Transmission Autoset 10
Springs F/R 11.6 / 10.8
Height F/R 101 / 103
Bound F/R 6 / 8
Rebound F/R 6 / 7
Camber F/R 3.3 / 2.7
Toe F/R 0 / -1
Stabil. F/R 4 / 3
AYC 80
VCD 15

Fuji Speedway 90s:
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR '01 (~9800 miles, used, no oil) 284HP on garage screen.
Racing Brakes
Full Custom Suspension
Full Custom Gearbox
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
1.5way Differential
AYC
Carbon Driveshaft
VCD
N3 tyres!
+60 kg Ballast vs. Lineup 2 after console reset.
200 point walk in the park. Absolutely 100% WRS standard clean, no blocking required.
(Kept the replay of this one if anyone's interested?)

Settings:
Transmission Autoset 10
Springs F/R 11.6 / 10.8
Height F/R 101 / 103
Bound F/R 6 / 8
Rebound F/R 6 / 7
Camber F/R 3.3 / 2.7
Toe F/R 0 / -1
Stabil. F/R 4 / 3
AYC 80
VCD 15

Even on the N3 tyres, the Evo VII GSR handles well and can easily outbrake cars into turn 1 on the 2nd lap.

Tokyo R246:
Mitsubishi Pajero Evolution Rally Raid Car '03 269HP on garage screen.
Used Dotini's GT vault setup (which is awesome btw! 👍), except that I kept the stock R1 tyres on and used 120kg ballast weight vs. Lineup 11 after console reset, which has the following cars in order:
Evo '92,
Evo II '94,
Evo VI '99,
Evo III ' 95,
Evo IV '96

Clean race as far as passing AI went, but some blocking in the stretch before the fast chicane and down the stretch towards the finish line was required.

 

[Dotini]

I'm over the moon with happiness at finishing off my last Suzuki Concept event at Tsukuba. I do believe this race is considered one of the harder ones in the game for 200 points, so it according gives me great pleasure to present a setup that will enable more humans to defeat the AI at this event.

Going in, the car should have worn oil and be equipped with chassis stiffness and engine balancing for 168 hp on the parts change screen. The unusual engine balancing item installs a higher rpm limit which, in combination with specially selected gear ratios, keeps the car at a higher average rpm while still limiting wheel spin. In fact the whole setup is keyed around getting the power down to the track from this very light and powerful front wheel drive Concept-S2.

N3/N3
Brakes: 5/3
NOS: 85
Springs: 12.6/8.4
Ride Height: 86/86
Bound: 1/9
Rebound : 2/10
Camber: 2.0/0.5
Toe: -1/+4
Aids: 007
Gears: Set Autoset to 3, then adjust individually to 2.709/1.980/1.525/1.280/1.106/0.964. Final remains at 4.529
LSD: I used 20/30/5, but I think Standard will work
Ballast: 162@-50

http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::8041/Concept-S2-Dotini2001/

From a Sarthe I Preview, the very first race features a Concept on pole followed by 4 GSX-R/4's. But before you start, do enough lapping to ensure you can do a lap below 1:10 without nitrous. At the start, be prepared to immediately upshift with your manual shifter.

The setup has the potential to win the race in several ways. But here's how I did it:
1) Ride inside and pass 5th place on corner 1.
2) Ride inside and pass 4th place on corner 3.
3) Ride inside and pass 3rd place on corner 4. We both visited the dirt on the exit. He spun and took out the 4th place car.
4) Cut the grass at corner 7 and pass the now 2nd place Concept with room to spare.
5) Attempt to pass the 1st place GSX-R/4 at the same corner on lap two.
6) Assuming that fails, punt him into the sand beginning lap three.
7) Now out of nitrous, but able to hold him off for the rest of the lap quite easily, as the other "angry bees" were 2+ seconds back due to their earlier spins.

 

[1000RR]

Hi everyone i have question about the Suzuki K-cup I have PS2 duel-shock PAL
My stats

Game completion: %54.3
A-spec milage: 8387
A-spec points: 60600

For suzuki K-Cup

Autumn Ring Mini Reverse
N1's front, & N2's rear
nitrous @ 100
ballast @ 200, 50 towards the rear
ride height lowered all the way
TCS & ASM front & rear @0
final gear-2.85, auto-1
VCD @ 50
showing 56 hp @ parts change/settings menu
against the 10th lineup from a reset, which is:
'97 Alto Works Suzuki Sports Ltd.
'91 Cappuccino (EA11R)
'97 Alto Works RS-Z
'95 Cappuccino (EA21R)
'02 Kei Works
'01 Alto Lapin Turbo (Me)

Even if i got this configuration it gives me 188 point.In the parts&setting display it seems 60 HP.How can i solve this problem?

Thanks for repl...

 

[shepzki]

Hi everyone i have question about the Suzuki K-cup I have PS2 duel-shock PAL
My stats

Game completion: %54.3
A-spec milage: 8387
A-spec points: 60600

For suzuki K-Cup

Autumn Ring Mini Reverse
N1's front, & N2's rear
nitrous @ 100
ballast @ 200, 50 towards the rear
ride height lowered all the way
TCS & ASM front & rear @0
final gear-2.85, auto-1
VCD @ 50
showing 56 hp @ parts change/settings menu
against the 10th lineup from a reset, which is:
'97 Alto Works Suzuki Sports Ltd.
'91 Cappuccino (EA11R)
'97 Alto Works RS-Z
'95 Cappuccino (EA21R)
'02 Kei Works
'01 Alto Lapin Turbo (Me)

Even if i got this configuration it gives me 188 point.In the parts&setting display it seems 60 HP.How can i solve this problem?

Thanks for repl...

Have you wore the engine out on the car to lower the BHP?

 

[1000RR]

How can i wore the engine?

 

[shepzki]

Have a read of the 2nd post in this thread, basically you need to run the car round the test track for a lot of hours to lower the BHP, hopefully you can set the car up to redline most of the time aswell which helps.

 

[GTsail]

How can i wore the engine?

Welcome to GTPlanet 1000RR!

And to the 200 point races.

Wearing out your car's engine is a job for your friendly B-spec Bob (unless you are trying for a non B-spec game).

The Test Track is the best and quickest track to do this on. Though I sometimes let my B-spec Bob do a number of laps on the 'Ring.

Happy A-spec point hunting!

Respectfully,
GTsail290

 

[1000RR]

Nemesis01 and GTsail290 thanks for helping i will almost lose my mind=))
Thank a lot again for helping me

 

[jbrennen]

Here's the video of the Copen Race that I promised:

Sweet, just watched this for the first time.

Glad somebody got some good use out of my Copen settings. They were born out of desperation, as the Copen race at Motorland was a major pain in the butt when run for max A-spec pts, as anyone who has ever tried can testify. I never tried the N1/N2 tire combo, and I haven't really revisited the Copen races since then, but I will be soon, as I've started a whole new game save going for max A-spec points... Or at least 100,000+, we'll see if I'm still motivated beyond that...

 

[RVDNuT374]

Race of the Red "R" Emblem- all races

Car: the venerable '62 Nissan Skyline Sport Coupe (BLRA-3) with the following parts:

racing exhaust
sports chip
port polish
stage 2 turbo
nitrous
racing brakes
brake balance controller set to 5/5
racing transmission
triple plate clutch
racing flywheel
full customization LSD
carbon driveshaft
racing suspension
R1-R3 tires

Suspension Setup:

Springs: 6.5/6.5
Ride Height: 130/130
Shocks: 3/5, 3/5
Camber: 2.0/1.0
Toe: 0/0
Stabilizers: 4/4

All this should give you 173 hp at the garage screen (181 w/ oil change). While the opponents have as much as 200 more horsepower, they're on S2 tires while this old Skyline has the distinct advantage of being able to use R-grade tires, making your job a whole lot easier. No grasscuts or wallriding are required, just very minor blocking and nitrous use at the start of races. 👍

Individual Race Setups:

Motegi: R1 tires, nitrous @ 45, auto set 6
Trial Mountain Reverse: R2 tires, nitrous @ 100, auto set 5
Fuji 80's: 173 hp (no oil change, this was the first race I did, changed oil afterwards) R3 tires, nitrous @ 55, auto set 9
New York Reverse: R2 tires, nitrous @ 45, auto set 8
Suzuka: R2 tires, nitrous @ 55, auto set 8

 

[jbrennen]

This post is to any of you who may be encountering persistent problems wearing down the Copen to 111/57 HP. Particularly if you are playing a NA ver. of the game

Please refer to Posts#162, 163, and 164 in the General Discussion thread.

If you're still around, or if anyone else knows the answer for NTSC -- is there a reliable way to wear down a Copen? I did it myself over two years ago in another game save, but now that I'm in a new game save and revisiting this, I have a Copen which is stuck at 113/58 HP, at over 15000 miles without an oil change.

I've done the last 1000 or so miles with the settings given in the posts referenced above, and no change in test course lap times or power numbers; I'm wondering if this Copen is stuck? And if it is, do I do an oil change and start over, or do I buy a new Copen and start over?

And are those settings (the 10/5.545 transmission and other settings) good to go from zero mileage? Just stick it on the test course and come back in a day and a half and it's done?

I'd do some experimentation myself, but I'm wearing down a Spitfire, a Crossfire, a Tiburon, an A3, etc.; there are just too many cars to wear down and I don't want to waste real-life days on failed experiments. It takes long enough when everything works right.

 

[Open Addict]

@jbrennen, I would buy a new one and start again. The big problem I found when wearing out rides, was, when you start wearing the ride you get excellent redline. (By excellent, I mean right on the limit of dropping the speed back down because you pushed too far. An example is that if at speed say 100mph you staty at 100mph, but if you were to go to 101mph speed drops to 95mph).But the further the car goes the red line slips and you are now not on the limit.

What I did was run the car for approx 4500miles and then reset the gears so the redline was back to maximum. I did this with all my wearing out.
Like I did with the Audi A3

The problem I found when wearing out rides, is that when you start the wearing out process you are running in redline. But the further the car runs and the lower the BHP, eventually the car stops going to redline.

I ran the car for approx 4500 miles in redline, then tweaked the gearbox to increase the redline again. Ran for another 5000 miles. Bingo all HP lossed and 182 points offered.