Pedal Calibration

[KipDog]

I like my G29 brake pedal much more since removing the OEM spring and rubber stopper, and replacing them both with just a stiffer spring. Still not as good as a load cell but much better than it was.

Yeah, the true brake load cell mod or the spring replacement mod you used is a far more effective solution for sure. Calibration tip is for standard pedal users.

 

[TSXChef]

Throwing out a question for Fanatec Load Cell users... Welcome your feedback, especially if you know the technical reasons behind either setup

When GT7 Pedal calibrating, do you?

• Setup A) set Brake force to 100% in GT7 in-game, then allow Fanatec wheel BRF setting to adjust to your preferred brake feel
• Setup B) set Brake force to preferred Brake force in GT7 in-game, then set Fanatec wheel BRF to 100%(Max)

Currently I'm using Setup B, with assumption that I'm using 100% of Fanatec HW capability while dialing in preference within GT7 in-game. It may be placebo, but I feel like trail-braking within pedal calibration screen looks bit more smooth with Setup B (less granular or fluctuating). It could be that there's no benefit one-way or another, hence my inquiry.

I'm using Fanatec CSP V3 pedal + Brake Per Kit (Red12mm+Red13mm+Red13mm cutdown). ~70% is my preferred LC setting. (Also when I calibrated V3 pedal within PC/Fanatec driver prior, I set brake close to ~80%, I don't slam it down 100% within Fanatec driver, hopefully Fanatec owners know what I'm talking about)

OR

 

[Bojador]

Just wanted to highlight this post. I really like the G29 overall in Gran Turismo 7 except…

The break pedal. I know I’m not breaking news here, but for all the complaints about the G29 pedal (squishy feel, lack of load cell, etc) I don’t often see the actual impact in terms of racing and lap times described. The brake pedal, as is, makes trail braking incredibly difficult to do with any consistency. Getting the right amount of lift off the pedal as you turn in is very hard to feel. You have to memorize what amounts to a tiny amount of travel, rather than the feel of pressure resistance you typically use driving. I think I’m doing it the exact same as I did the prior corner, but get a very different result.

As this poster said, through some trial and error with the calibration found that, while it’s still not remotely comparable to true load cell pedals, and still difficult to nail consistently, bumping the brake calibration max to 95% significantly improves trail braking with that pedal set.

Having the pedal pressed down hard enough that you’re really pushing into the internal rubber stopper, somewhat replicates the feel of load cell pressure resistance as you begin to lift. When the max is set at the default 60%, you’re still at 100% braking force well past the point where you can really feel that rubber stop pushing back. Hope that makes some sense!

Trade off of course being that you now have to brake much harder for standard straight line stopping than before, so it probably isn’t a change to make unless you use trail braking.

Can you post an image of the calibration screen? I didn't quite get what you wrote. Thanks

 

[TSXChef]

If you're asking where the GT7 Pedal Calibration is = Go to GT7 main screen > Top Left GT Menu > Options > Controllers > Pedal Calibrations

 

[Bojador]

If you're asking where the GT7 Pedal Calibration is = Go to GT7 main screen > Top Left GT Menu > Options > Controllers > Pedal Calibrations

Thanks. That I know. I just didn't understand his suggestion to calibrate it. He says 95%, but then talks about 60%. Is 60% the default? Iirc was 100%.

 

[Kriptical]

Throwing out a question for Fanatec Load Cell users... Welcome your feedback, especially if you know the technical reasons behind either setup

When GT7 Pedal calibrating, do you?

• Setup A) set Brake force to 100% in GT7 in-game, then allow Fanatec wheel BRF setting to adjust to your preferred brake feel
• Setup B) set Brake force to preferred Brake force in GT7 in-game, then set Fanatec wheel BRF to 100%(Max)

Currently I'm using Setup B, with assumption that I'm using 100% of Fanatec HW capability while dialing in preference within GT7 in-game. It may be placebo, but I feel like trail-braking within pedal calibration screen looks bit more smooth with Setup B (less granular or fluctuating). It could be that there's no benefit one-way or another, hence my inquiry.

I'm using Fanatec CSP V3 pedal + Brake Per Kit (Red12mm+Red13mm+Red13mm cutdown). ~70% is my preferred LC setting. (Also when I calibrated V3 pedal within PC/Fanatec driver prior, I set brake close to ~80%, I don't slam it down 100% within Fanatec driver, hopefully Fanatec owners know what I'm talking about)

View attachment 1338817
OR
View attachment 1338818

Are you kinda negating the load cell, and setting it to pedal travel, doing it this way?

 

[TSXChef]

Are you kinda negating the load cell, and setting it to pedal travel, doing it this way?

You have a good point, thanks. I may be doing that unintentionally

I currently have about 2cm of brake pedal travel using BPK (13Red/12Red/13cut-Red). I may re-think and try Green harder elastomers which may remove pedal travel to min.
I may also re-connect my V3 pedal and set brake max again, but this time will use full 100%).

What I am trying to solve or improve is trail-braking. I believe I have 2 issues

1) I don't have good gradual trail braking from 100 - 50%, it goes down very fast but I think it should be more gradual. On lower end, 50-0, I have some decent amount of control

Issue 2) when braking in GT7 Pedal calibration screen, brake input jumps around +/- 2%. Feels like lot of input noise. I noticed when I set both GT7 brake = 100, & Fanatec wheel BRF=100, then the input noise is greatly reduced. 100% is too much for me press, aiming for something close to 70%

 

[KipDog]

Can you post an image of the calibration screen? I didn't quite get what you wrote. Thanks

Yes, will do. I’ll grab a shot of it this evening.

 

[KipDog]

Can you post an image of the calibration screen? I didn't quite get what you wrote. Thanks

Turns out to be oddly difficult to capture a screen shot of the calibration settings within the PS5, because the moment you enter screen grab, all settings change to 100 for some reason. Here's a shot of my setting for the break pedal from my phone.

Basically, instead of the default pressure to give maximum braking, which is 60%, you want that pressure much closer to 100% so you really have to press into the brake to get full pressure. That way you have a bit of control on the release of that pressure which is the real issue.

 

[Bojador]

Turns out to be oddly difficult to capture a screen shot of the calibration settings within the PS5, because the moment you enter screen grab, all settings change to 100 for some reason. Here's a shot of my setting for the break pedal from my phone.

Basically, instead of the default pressure to give maximum braking, which is 60%, you want that pressure much closer to 100% so you really have to press into the brake to get full pressure. That way you have a bit of control on the release of that pressure which is the real issue.
View attachment 1339559

Thanks. I think I have mine set to something like 95%. I'll have to check. Thank you.

 

[KipDog]

Thanks. I think I have mine set to something like 95%. I'll have to check. Thank you.

No problem! It’s a minor tweak that ever so slightly helped me mitigate the lack of load cell in the G29 brake pedal. The poor brake feedback impacts me much more than lack of true direct drive in the steering wheel.

Using that calibration allowed just enough consistency with muscle memory and trail braking that I finally turned a few near golds into actual golds when the difference was a few tenths. I very much can’t wait for a pro pedal set!