Performance mod to Fanatec Clubsport V3 Pedals

[Oh_danielsan]

 

[Oh_danielsan]

Hey guys, i also saw the video of Racebeyondmatter and got attached to try this. I ordered two springs on aliexpress (only retailer for this kind of springs in germany). I ordered the second stiffest green one 14mm x 55mm (exact inner loadcell length) and the stiffest brown one 14mm x 55mm. I will test both and compare to bpk, which i used before with the damper kit.

 

[Michi1975]

Hey guys, i also saw the video of Racebeyondmatter and got attached to try this. I ordered two springs on aliexpress (only retailer for this kind of springs in germany). I ordered the second stiffest green one 14mm x 55mm (exact inner loadcell length) and the stiffest brown one 14mm x 55mm. I will test both and compare to bpk, which i used before with the damper kit.

Any News ?

 

[Oh_danielsan]

Hey, the brown one felt pretty good paired with an elastomer, but there was still some slightly noticeable lack of input when you hold the brakes, worked well for me, but not an absolute game changer

 

[MustakeSVT]

You should put heat shrink on the springs to avoid metal to metal contact. Just a thought.

 

[Drew172]

My current take on the upgrades with sizes, working on a new rod with a plastic (PTFE) sleeve due to the chrome becoming worn down to the copper plating.

I'm happy using the green springs, brown springs were just a touch too much for a static rig for 30 minute+ races.

The two zipped files are actually .stl files for those with access to a 3D printer, they help centralise the springs, I've not tried printed ones as I made mine to the same size out of acetyl on my lathe but used identical dimensions and have no issues. If you do use them, let me know if you have any issues and re-do the models.

 

[Wolfmanracer]

* This will most probably void your manufacturer warranty, attempt at your own risk*

Inspired by the work done and explained in this video from Race Beyond Matter on YouTube, I applied this mod with success improving my performance matching performance gains listed in the video.

All credit to Steliyan at Race Beyond Matter, and for the specifics on how and why springs give better control over rubber elastomers in load cell pedals, please watch the video as he did all the work and deserves all the credit.

I have found lots of similar mods for the CSL pedals, but nothing for the Clubsport V3 online, so wanted to document and spread the good word.

The upgrade is simply changing the rubber elastomers in the Fanatec load cell performance kit for metal die springs. My fear in changing these is metal on metal contact wears down materials with greater severity than hard rubber. The solution I chose is to use cut peices of the rubber elastomers in the break performance kit at both the bottom and top of the load cell to avoid the metal on metal contact.

Here is a parts list available on Amazon:
(Utilizing 12mm)
(Anything less than Heavy Duty feels too squishy for my tastes)

Now to assemble:

-springs are same size as each elastomer to ensure load cell functions properly
View attachment 1294814

-One elastomer has to be sacrificed and made to match the size of the foam inset that should be at the bottom of the load cell per Fanatec specs
View attachment 1294815
Cut to match size
View attachment 1294816
Then cut in half
View attachment 1294817
Sand both sides even, and also sand one side of the metal disk (not pictured)
View attachment 1294818
One drop of super glue on the metal disk will bond the small cut sanded rubber elastomer piece. Once dried, coat everything in the lithium grease included with pedals and brake performance kit, assemble and insert into load cell following fanatics installation instructions.
View attachment 1294819
(Note: metal disks pictured are not the 12mm ones I used, the finished product will be within 1 mm wide. Also, metal disks are used instead of a washers with a hole in the middle to give full force even in the center of the load cell. I have not tried with washers but think it might be possible it gives a little less performance than full metal disks)
Install instructions in download section of product page.

ClubSport Pedals V3 Brake Performance Kit

The human body memorizes muscle tension much better than foot position. This is why all car brakes measure the pressure and not the travel. Race and F1 cars have almost no travel at all.

fanatec.com

For an added bonus not mentioned in the video, curved pedal plates included are great for precision but I prefer metal as I use socks when sim racing and metal glides under the socks so well and the plastic can sometimes stick. I found Sparco curved racing pedals that worked out great and makes smooth throttling and breaking much easier for me personally.
View attachment 1294822
View attachment 1294823

Heel rest is a 10inch cool gel keyboard wrist cushion that fits in perfectly in case anyone curious

Am I the only one not seeing actual amazon parts listed in original post? Appreciate it, looking forward to trying it out

 

[RS60NR]

Not sure where in that post was the links but I used these
medium springs

And these are the stiff ones
stiff springs

 

[RS60NR]

So eight months later took it apart - yes some wear on the inside of the cylinder in places, and paint gone from springs. It had started feeling a bit different. I’ve put the BPK elastomers back in for comparison for a while. Don’t think the wear should affect them tho

 

[TSXChef]

Just found this and interesting read. I'm little hesitant to try though, weary of possible metal to metal contact inside chamber.

Slightly different question. How do you all calibrate your V3?, how do we best utilize LC sensor to its optimum.

Here is what I do but like to know if I'm doing it wrong. The main question is around 3a or 3b.

1) Connect to PC via USB, load Fanatec driver application
2) In steering wheel menu(tiny little black button on wheel), Brake force = 100%(MAX)
3) In Fanatec driver application

3a) Apply brake as HARD AS YOU CAN to set max
OR
3b) Only apply brake to user comfortable 100% (what you think 100% should feel like then set max) --> this is what I do

then
4) In-game(GT7) pedal calibration option = apply brake at 100% (not applying it any harder, don't know if it makes any difference)
5) Finally, in steering wheel menu, make final adjustment Brake force = +/-

I've done multiple permutations, using different BPK springs (currently using 13RedCut + 13Red + 13Red (I have 2x BPK kits).

Like to hear from you guys. Please help share if there is a "correct" method. Thanks!

 

[Jump_Ace]

Just found this and interesting read. I'm little hesitant to try though, weary of possible metal to metal contact inside chamber.

Slightly different question. How do you all calibrate your V3?, how do we best utilize LC sensor to its optimum.

Here is what I do but like to know if I'm doing it wrong. The main question is around 3a or 3b.

1) Connect to PC via USB, load Fanatec driver application
2) In steering wheel menu(tiny little black button on wheel), Brake force = 100%(MAX)
3) In Fanatec driver application

3a) Apply brake as HARD AS YOU CAN to set max
OR
3b) Only apply brake to user comfortable 100% (what you think 100% should feel like then set max) --> this is what I do

then
4) In-game(GT7) pedal calibration option = apply brake at 100% (not applying it any harder, don't know if it makes any difference)
5) Finally, in steering wheel menu, make final adjustment Brake force = +/-

I've done multiple permutations, using different BPK springs (currently using 13RedCut + 13Red + 13Red (I have 2x BPK kits).

Like to hear from you guys. Please help share if there is a "correct" method. Thanks!

Steps 1, 2 and 3: yes. I also allow for compensation for resting my foot on the pedals in the Fanatec software. Then I do Step 3b; only feel what my own 100% is. I haven't touched the GT7 in-game settings once, there's really no need to, outside of ensure there's no ghost pedal presses (a pedal is pressed either on its own or by me resting my foot on it). HTH!


Jerome

 

[TSXChef]

Steps 1, 2 and 3: yes. I also allow for compensation for resting my foot on the pedals in the Fanatec software. Then I do Step 3b; only feel what my own 100% is. I haven't touched the GT7 in-game settings once, there's really no need to, outside of ensure there's no ghost pedal presses (a pedal is pressed either on its own or by me resting my foot on it). HTH!


Jerome

Thanks Jerome, appreciate your feedback. Right, good point on removing ghost entries from foot-rest.

3b) for you also, good to know. Thanks!

I don't know the technicalities, but my assumption(3b) is that by setting 100% for Max brake in Fanatec application, it's setting the brake min/max range or sensitivity from the HW point of view. Then adjustments in in-game(whatever is played) can be used for final tweaks. I would like to get Fanatec Dev to help as well, but not likely given their workload in repair what's already broken.

My main problem with braking is that my trail-braking is not smooth. It goes from 100%--> 50 fast, but below 50 I can manage very well. It could be that I still need to play with the springs/elastomers.

I'm actually eyeing V2 pedals, I heard good things in terms of smoothness of trail braking capabilities.

 

[Jump_Ace]

Thanks Jerome, appreciate your feedback. Right, good point on removing ghost entries from foot-rest.

3b) for you also, good to know. Thanks!

I don't know the technicalities, but my assumption(3b) is that by setting 100% for Max brake in Fanatec application, it's setting the brake min/max range or sensitivity from the HW point of view. Then adjustments in in-game(whatever is played) can be used for final tweaks. I would like to get Fanatec Dev to help as well, but not likely given their workload in repair what's already broken.

My main problem with braking is that my trail-braking is not smooth. It goes from 100%--> 50 fast, but below 50 I can manage very well. It could be that I still need to play with the springs/elastomers.

I'm actually eyeing V2 pedals, I heard good things in terms of smoothness of trail braking capabilities.

That is typical to have the brakes drop fast in the upper range as there's more forces fighting your foot. You may just need to build up muscle memory (and more muscles in general). That being said, if you are really struggling to do so, then maybe lighten up the 100% limit, or if you are lazy like me, you can just drop the BRF (in the Fanatec settings on the wheelbase/rim) which will make it easier to press the brakes overall.


Jerome

 

[RS60NR]

Steps 1, 2 and 3: yes. I also allow for compensation for resting my foot on the pedals in the Fanatec software. Then I do Step 3b; only feel what my own 100% is. I haven't touched the GT7 in-game settings once, there's really no need to, outside of ensure there's no ghost pedal presses (a pedal is pressed either on its own or by me resting my foot on it). HTH!


Jerome

Set BRF on the wheel, which scales the LC signal, for my typical max pressure

being on the PS5 only I’ve not really bothered to go back and forth w hooking up the PC just to tweak the pedal settings so left it in auto. That means at base startup, press and hold each pedal for 2 secs to set max value. Important for clutch take up and throttle max as well as brake

I also activate handbrake and hand clutch full range - not sure why but in GT7 the initial HB activation goes 100%, after that goes full range. Same w hand clutches on APM

In GT7 you can see this work in the calibration top screen which shows wheel and pedals.

Set a dead zone if needed in each game.

Regarding springs, there was wear, not serious enough YET to keep it from working ok w the BPK elastomers after 6-8 months of daily use. Longer term who knows

The springs have a somewhat different feel and ideally I think a spring/elastomer combo could be desirable, but not sure if I want to bother atm so sticking w the BPK for now

 

[TSXChef]

being on the PS5 only I’ve not really bothered to go back and forth w hooking up the PC just to tweak the pedal settings so left it in auto. That means at base startup, press and hold each pedal for 2 secs to set max value. Important for clutch take up and throttle max as well as brake

Good to know, didn't think about keeping it at Auto mode in Fanatec application, nor did I know about calibration at base startup.

The springs have a somewhat different feel and ideally I think a spring/elastomer combo could be desirable, but not sure if I want to bother atm so sticking w the BPK for now

This is why V2 pedal looks attractive for me, spring + elastomer combo with ease of change between.

Finally, are you guys on FW 1.35?(latest I think). Any brake response input delay? Some had reported so I stayed on FW1.32. I asked this question on another thread (sorry), but since we're talking about V3 details... Thanks!

 

[Jump_Ace]

I don't recall what version I'm on, but I updated my stuff about a month ago. If someone is having input delays, that first makes me think they have their dead zone set too high and need to recalibrate the brakes...just a guess.

I saw the springs for the V3 and they look tempting for that added benefit of brake fade, but I just don't want to put them in and have metal grind against metal. I'd be heartbroken if in a year or two I clean out my pedals and see shavings built up in there.


Jerome

 

[RS60NR]

I don't recall what version I'm on, but I updated my stuff about a month ago. If someone is having input delays, that first makes me think they have their dead zone set too high and need to recalibrate the brakes...just a guess.

I saw the springs for the V3 and they look tempting for that added benefit of brake fade, but I just don't want to put them in and have metal grind against metal. I'd be heartbroken if in a year or two I clean out my pedals and see shavings built up in there.


Jerome

I’m on an older version as well, but saw the issue mentioned so didn’t update.

You’ll see more like fine metal dust mixed in w the grease - no shavings. The edges of the flat discs i used - see top of post - did much of it so may be better to leave those out. The springs are fairly smooth but still wore the paint off one side

People have raved about the V2’s but I like the inverted V3 setup. Plus V2s out of stock US anyway and not likely back until Fanatec is sorted financially and pays their CHina vendors

Really waiting to see if a Podium grade set of pedals ever arrives

 

[TSXChef]

Really waiting to see if a Podium grade set of pedals ever arrives

I know what you mean, I'm somewhat vested to Fanatec ecosystem so I like to see them release something premium and refreshing to V3. But with what's going on with Fanatec, probably a dream at the moment.
Thanks for your feedbacks!

 

[Jump_Ace]

Really waiting to see if a Podium grade set of pedals ever arrives

Oh man, me too buddy. I want them to make some hydraulic brakes like the Simagic P2000's, but it's all up in the air right now.


Jerome