Pet Projects Part 1: RUF CTR2 '96

[Ghost Rydor]

When I was looking into front wheel drive drag setups I originally though if I lowered the front it would shift the weight distribution. What I discovered from various articles was very little advantage came from doing so ( next to nothing ) and whats worse it would only hamper a cars ability to go around corners. So all my cars have the same front and rear suspension heights in GT5.
What you might be trying to achieve is something I noticed on one of my nsx's after fitting custom suspension. As a mid engined car the front sping rate was much higher then the rear. This may be what your uneven ride height might be trying to replicate.



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Shopping list:
- RUF CTR2 '96 from the UCD (do engine refresh and chassis restoration)
- Racing Hard Tyres
- Mid RPM Turbo kit
- LSD
- Torque distributing centre diff.
- Adjustable Sports suspension kit
- Paint chip (I used Maziora Trapezium - color changing paint)

You might want to check your list again as the Torque distributing centre diff is not available for this car making it trickier then most to make competitive.

The Ctr 2 is a beast of a car, it surges hard at around second gear so sometimes it tries to jump off the track on corners. It took a bit of tuning to make it competitive and I have ended up with setting completely different to your own.
I'm not sure that those suspension setting of yours would survive a lap at Cape Ring or on other tracks with high speed banked corners. If another turns up in ucd I will give your settings a try and let you know.

 

[brambos]

You might want to check your list again as the Torque distributing centre diff is not available for this car making it trickier then most to make competitive.

I'm quite sure it is. You can buy one for every 4wd car. Are you sure you're not thinking of the RGT or the Yellowbird?

The Ctr 2 is a beast of a car, it surges hard at around second gear so sometimes it tries to jump off the track on corners. It took a bit of tuning to make it competitive and I have ended up with setting completely different to your own.
I'm not sure that those suspension setting of yours would survive a lap at Cape Ring or on other tracks with high speed banked corners. If another turns up in ucd I will give your settings a try and let you know.

I don't think I've tried Cape Ring yet. I'll do that and see how it fares, but since it's 4wd and I've given front wheels 33% torque I think it may have enough grip to counter the understeer. I'll try! Cheers!

 

[brambos]

Update: all RUFs are now available in the OCD! Buy buy buy!

 

[Ghost Rydor]

I'm quite sure it is. You can buy one for every 4wd car. Are you sure you're not thinking of the RGT or the Yellowbird?



I don't think I've tried Cape Ring yet. I'll do that and see how it fares, but since it's 4wd and I've given front wheels 33% torque I think it may have enough grip to counter the understeer. I'll try! Cheers!

Lol, my bad. I must have missed that. I thought for the life of me it wasn't available. Damn, I must have done a good job tuning it to turn without using the centre diff. That is normally a mandatory adjustment for 4WD's. lol doing it tough all this time! The way mine is setup handles great but it is hard on the front tires so there is room for improvment.

But I can confirm that not all 4WD's have it as a option. The DNX concept is one such car I know of. But its not exactly a conventional car. A centre diff could not exist in such a car but they could have allowed you to adjust the power output on the front and rear independantly to some degree. However they don't give you such options, guess because it would be unique to that one ( or two if you count the honda version ) cars. Maybe more cars out there like this, I don't know.

 

[Griffith500]

I have a question, why do we all speak in British accents when we're from outer space and there's no Britain?

This line always gets me... in reality, they ought to be speaking some incomprehensible language - maybe even something unrecognisable as communication. Given that there is no "Britain", there must also be no anywhere else on Earth. It's Hollywood's way of saying "look, these guys are different..!" (It's from Thumbwars, for those in the dark.)

Anyway... back on topic

I wouldn't be too surprised that leaving the centre diff stock is fine on the CTR2. I have the feeling it's not "fixed" in the game, somehow - i.e. it feels loose, if not open. With careful tuning of front and rear diffs (LSD upgrade), you could quite easily control the amount of torque that gets split front to rear, or at least keep it within certain confines.
I find often that the "variable" centre diff, owing to its fixed nature on the track, can ruin certain cars' ability to handle a wide range of cornering speeds - that is, you have to compromise the torque split for the most important corners, or jump into the RA menu before the next corner
It ruined my R32 GTR, for instance - but then, I don't often use high-grip tyres.

Then again, the variable centre diff is great on 4WD cars that have a fixed centre diff anyway (like the Ur-Quattro, etc.)

 

[xagt393]

this may be silly but how did you paint a standard car?

 

[Griffith500]

this may be silly but how did you paint a standard car?

GT Auto, just the same as you would a Premium!

 

[Larkas]

GT Auto, just the same as you would a Premium!

Yep! You just can't paint or change the rims

 

[brambos]

Hey Larkas... I saw you made a group for the Pet Car Projects. Good stuff!

Let's come up with a plan for how to use it... e.g. a fixed format/template for posting projects, guidelines for cars/testtracks/objectives/..., conditions for trading, etc.

 

[Larkas]

Hey Larkas... I saw you made a group for the Pet Car Projects. Good stuff!

Let's come up with a plan for how to use it... e.g. a fixed format/template for posting projects, guidelines for cars/testtracks/objectives/..., conditions for trading, etc.

Sure thing! Want to bring this there so we don't go offtopic too much on this thread?

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/grou...286&discussionid=783&gmid=16736#gmessage16736

Cheers!

PS: I recommend subscribing to the group! This can be done under the group's main page, at Group Tools>Subscribe to this group. This way, you'll be notified of every new post there! ...At least I think that's how it works XD

 

[xagt393]

Wow! been playing from day 1 and did not know that! Cheers!

 

[BallPtPenTheif]

Great tune setup.

I just grabbed the CTR2 off of the online dealership and I only updated the stock parts per your setup ignoring the parts I didn't have. It still handled great even though it was my first time using it. It gets slippery when you break during a turn but all you have to do is point the nose, feather the gas, and the ass will follow.

It does understeer a bit when you let off the gas to regain traction but this beast wasn't made for that sort of passive driving anyways.

A total blast to drive.

 

[RewindTape]

Back, after some real life intervention.

Know I have a question:
Everytime (almost) someone posts his suspension settings the front is higher than the rear (ride height)
=> Why ?
I don´t get it because I tried it and it is slower (for me)

Why do you have the rear lower than the front ?

I always thought that a golden rule when setting up a performance car was to have the front slightly lower than the rear.

It's just something that I picked up when tuning a Volvo 240 GLT on Deep Forrest. Stock, the Volvo had good amounts of grip, even though it was leaning like crazy in the corners, and when the ride height was considerably lowered, the grip was too. Thus, shortening suspension travel can decrease grip, and when trying to get the AWD RUF to lose the back end on power exit (weight transfer to the rear), that's what I ended up with. It's not very scientific and just tested on a few races in the European championship. It got me a pretty good time () on the Eiger Northwand short track when I used it to time cars. No consideration of tire wear.