Playstation Pescarolo C60/Judd Race Car '04

[coldblade28]

Does anyone have settings for the above, because i really need help with the gear ratio's.
thanx

 

[Zardoz]

Does anyone have settings for the above, because i really need help with the gear ratio's.
thanx

Use the old GT3 "tranny trick":

Slide the Final all the way right to 5.00. Now slide the Autoset all the way right to 25, then all the way left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.

Now go back and adjust the Final for each track. You want to redline just before the end of the longest straight. For instance, on Sarth that's 2.07.

This exploit seems to work great on all cars. Its a lot easier than going through each gear, one by one.

As for the suspension settings, leave them stock for now. This car is superb in stock form. Just turn off ASM, turn the TCS up to 8, and set the brake balance at 4 / 1.

Both the Peskies are rockets. The Courage '03 car has a big advantage in its great tire life.

 

[rk]

Use the old GT3 "tranny trick":

Slide the Final all the way right to 5.00. Now slide the Autoset all the way right to 25, then all the way left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.

Now go back and adjust the Final for each track. You want to redline just before the end of the longest straight. For instance, on Sarth that's 2.07.

Veeeery Interesting, nice "hook-up", Zardoz. 👍
but... when I use b-spec Bob, he does much better in a tuned car compared to stock...

 

[Zardoz]

Veeeery Interesting, nice "hook-up", Zardoz. 👍
but... when I use b-spec Bob, he does much better in a tuned car compared to stock...

The Peskies, R8, Speed 8, BMW V12, and Minolta Toyota are so good in stock form I haven't even tried to work on their suspension settings yet. I'm not saying they can't be improved on, just that they're already good right out of the box.

For example: My B-Spec driver (Doofus) is just finishing up the Sarth (with chicanes) 24-Hour in the '04 Playstation Pescarolo. On "3" (Steady) he built up a 3-lap lead on the Sauber in 10 hours. He's finishing on "2" (Cruise) and is still pulling slightly away from the C9.

 

[rk]

I can't even drive the suckers stock. My Courage does 1.04 at Deep Forest, and all I adjust is suspension (veeery carefully), brakes and, of course, your tranny trick. (turning that asm crap off isn't an adjustment )

 

[MaxxTraxx]

I can drive with TCS off when I sometimes TRY to drift, but ASM has to be left on!

So your saying that this car may be able to keep up with the BIG boys? eg. R8 Minolta?

Some of these cars are good enough just to leave the suspension the way it came with, al I do is upgrade the turbo BEFORE I even take it for a spin .

 

[Zardoz]

So your saying that this car may be able to keep up with the BIG boys? eg. R8 Minolta?

The BMW V12, Audi R8, and the Peskies are about equal, I'd say. The Speed 8, which I just got, may be slightly better than those four.

The Minolta Toyota is unrealistically fast, but is also handicapped by severe rear tire wear. PD chose to make this old 1989 car the fastest prototype in the game, which is a joke, of course. Maybe they had a guilty conscience about it, so they bugged the rear tires to make them wear out faster.

What bug, you say? Take the 88C-V out on Sarth II, get up to top speed, and hit L1 to get a rear view. Listen carefully. Hear the tires chirping? What in the world is that all about?

That, of course, is why the Minolta car fries its rears so fast. That sort of makes up for its silly speed.

 

[rk]

What bug, you say? Take the 88C-V out on Sarth II, get up to top speed, and hit L1 to get a rear view. Listen carefully. Hear the tires chirping? What in the world is that all about?
That, of course, is why the Minolta car fries its rears so fast. That sort of makes up for its silly speed.

Could it at all be, is there not the teeniest tiniest doubt of a possibility that is just needs a proper TUNE?

 

[Zardoz]

Could it at all be, is there not the teeniest tiniest doubt of a possibility that is just needs a proper TUNE?

Have at it. Let us know what you come up with. Is it chirping because the rear suspension is too hard and the rear tires lose traction on every bump? Okay, fine, but it'll be interesting to see what softening up the rear end does to its phenomenal handling.

Seems odd, though, that when the car is at full song, is no longer accelerating, is redlining, and is running at a constant speed, the chirping is as bad as when it's accelerating.

My point is that the chirping happens when no decelation or acceleration is happening.


*adds Minolta fiddling to long list of GT4 projects*

 

[rk]

Have at it. Let us know what you come up with. Is it chirping because the rear suspension is too hard and the rear tires lose traction on every bump? Okay, fine, but it'll be interesting to see what softening up the rear end does to its phenomenal handling.

Seems odd, though, that when the car is at full song, is no longer accelerating, is redlining, and is running at a constant speed, the chirping is as bad as when it's accelerating.

My point is that the chirping happens when no decelation or acceleration is happening.


*adds Minolta fiddling to long list of GT4 projects*

I believe it is a symptom of maginally high rebound damping and possibly low compression damping. The scenario would be: While the car is traveling at high speed, road irregularities force energy into the tires, loading the springs, which in turn quickly max out the energy absorption of the compression dampers, so the wheel begins to depart the road surface. Now that the wheel is in "space" the only reason it continues to travel upwards is because of inertia, so the wheel is actually loading its energy (relative to the rest of the car) into the spring...everything would be fine if the spring were allowed to re-extend, but the rebound damping, designed to absorb energy loaded into the spring to prevent the wheel from pogoing the car off the track when suspension re-extends after a bump, now holds the wheel off the ground long enough for it to develop a higher rotational speed (around 1000 ponies on that treadmill) than the road surface traveling past, hence you get the same effect a jetliner experiences on touchdown and you can scrape the rubber off that end of the runway with a butter knife. Besides, it's much more Kaz's style to give us a challenge instead of a funk. Think of all those weird cars that turned marvelous after a little concentration, like the original Speed 12 and the Escudo.

 

[rk]

I just turned my fastest time yet in GT4 Deep Forest 1.03 in the 88C-V and that was first lap on racing hards. I will dial in the dampers and post the tune at lunch.

 

[tm2003]

I just turned my fastest time yet in GT4 Deep Forest 1.03 in the 88C-V and that was first lap on racing hards. I will dial in the dampers and post the tune at lunch.

Very Nice Observations Mate, You wouldnt Mind Winging em those settings when your done with yours would you .beacuse , i have noticed that your an extremley knowlegable Fella, So those settings are bound to be decent. 👍

 

[rk]

Very Nice Observations Mate, You wouldnt Mind Winging em those settings when your done with yours would you .beacuse , i have noticed that your an extremley knowlegable Fella, So those settings are bound to be decent. 👍

Thanks for the 👍 . It is good to know my tunes and ideas help others. To follow up on the Minolta issue; I took my fresh tune to Sarthe and had b-spec Bob race a pack of 10 on the difficulty scale while I sat on the wing. At about 200mph I saw sparks while the rear tire seemed to unweight. I raised the rear 7mm and it seems to have cured it without detriment; Bob agrees, he was .8 behind #1 Sauber Mercedes after 2 laps. I'll dredge up a Minolta thread and post my tune there, cheers.

 

[tm2003]

Thanks for the 👍 . It is good to know my tunes and ideas help others. To follow up on the Minolta issue; I took my fresh tune to Sarthe and had b-spec Bob race a pack of 10 on the difficulty scale while I sat on the wing. At about 200mph I saw sparks while the rear tire seemed to unweight. I raised the rear 7mm and it seems to have cured it without detriment; Bob agrees, he was .8 behind #1 Sauber Mercedes after 2 laps. I'll dredge up a Minolta thread and post my tune there, cheers.

Cheers m8,
Crazilly Enough My B-speccer Is Called Bob
Did The 7mm Cure The Tire Wear, & if so, performance wise, could it easily cut same times as pescarlo's and the audi , in the sense of same pitting Strategies or Not 👍

 

[Zardoz]

...now holds the wheel off the ground long enough for it to develop a higher rotational speed (around 1000 ponies on that treadmill) than the road surface traveling past...

My problem is that the chirping is the same when the engine is wound completely out and the tach is on the rev limiter. With no more revs left, the "higher rotational speed" can't be attained. This seems buggy (there's that b-word again) to me.

 

[rk]

My problem is that the chirping is the same when the engine is wound completely out and the tach is on the rev limiter. With no more revs left, the "higher rotational speed" can't be attained. This seems buggy (there's that b-word again) to me.

Sorry. That was my from the hip, most "logical" solution. The problem, I believe, is actually much simpler. The chirping alone is a clue, but combined with the sparks I witnessed seem to point squarely at chassis bottoming. Since the 7mm lift eliminated the sparks and tire wear was much more even, more like the what the Sauber Merc. or R92CP experience. More work could be done like removing some rear downforce and subsequent re-tuning, but I think the car is good enough for my needs. Bob, btw, had both tires pale green at the end of lap 2 at Sarthe.

 

[Zardoz]

...Since the 7mm lift eliminated the sparks and tire wear was much more even, more like the what the Sauber Merc. or R92CP experience. More work could be done like removing some rear downforce and subsequent re-tuning, but I think the car is good enough for my needs. Bob, btw, had both tires pale green at the end of lap 2 at Sarthe...

Well, the green tires after 2 laps indicates that you're onto the solution. I'll try the setup you posted in your thread.

I've also been working a little on the very unstable Peugeot 905, and there's no doubt that raising it from stock helped improve its tendency to just dance off the road on the back side of Le Mans. It could be that some race cars are set too low in stock form in GT4, and are bottoming out more than we realize. In GT3 it became a reflex action to lower a car as much as possible. It doesn't seem to be the same in GT4.

 

[rk]

Well, the green tires after 2 laps indicates that you're onto the solution. I'll try the setup you posted in your thread.

I've also been working a little on the very unstable Peugeot 905, and there's no doubt that raising it from stock helped improve its tendency to just dance off the road on the back side of Le Mans. It could be that some race cars are set too low in stock form in GT4, and are bottoming out more than we realize. In GT3 it became a reflex action to lower a car as much as possible. It doesn't seem to be the same in GT4.

Yes. I am starting to notice some spooky, relativistic curve in many GT4 settings that is somewhat unsettling, like Greyout's "relative dampers" that "work" at spring setting 5 or 13; or the ability to run minimum height settings that still allow travel unless you are a racecar. Hopefully I am just hungry.

 

[nightfall]

wuzzup anyone have these settings?

 

[Zardoz]

wuzzup anyone have these settings?

Haven't had time to try anything but stock settings yet, but I did do something else:

I bought two brand-new '03 Courage Pescarolos just to see what happens when you add the chassis stiffener.

With the stiffened car, I was able to turn laps on Tokyon 246 about 1.5 seconds faster than the no-stiffener car. Both were set up identically. The stiffener greatly improved the car's tendency to understeer on the high-speed turns of that track. The difference was immediately apparent to me on the first lap I tried it. I actually felt the improvement in the first two turns.

 

[rk]

You didn't REALLY think a 50,000c modification would hurt performance, did you?
Let's see, Pescarolo C60, ah, here it is. I am likely to improve on this tune, but here is one to try, I used all modifications INCLUDING frame stiffner; 1'05 at Deep forest on first lap racing hards:

brake 6/7
springs 13.3/13.5
height 65/65
bound 7/8
rebound 8/9
camber 2.2/1.2
toe -4/4 (for turn in throttle steering)
stabilizers 4/4
asm/o 0
asm/u 0
tcs 3
downforce 63/88
lsd 10/40/20

and, of course this:

Slide the Final all the way right to 5.00. Now slide the Autoset all the way right to 25, then all the way left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.

Now go back and adjust the Final for each track. You want to redline just before the end of the longest straight. For instance, on Sarth that's 2.07.

with the final set to 2.6
Enjoy

 

[The_NISSAN_Fan]

The Minolta Toyota is unrealistically fast, but is also handicapped by severe rear tire wear. PD chose to make this old 1989 car the fastest prototype in the game, which is a joke, of course.

.

Imo, I'm not entirely sure it's a joke that the 88C-V is so fast. This was a Group "C" Machine (for Consumption, as in how much fuel they were allowed to use). These machines were absolute beasts, most with over 1000hp, made entirely of kevlar and carbon fiber, they were truly the most highly developed race cars of there time, capable of 340-400kph!

A cool fact I found reseaching this...did you know that the 88CV was made by Dome? As in Dome Zero... Cool pics of the 88CV

 

[Zardoz]

Imo, I'm not entirely sure it's a joke that the 88C-V is so fast...Cool pics of the 88CV...

I could live with great straightaway speed in keeping with a 1000 HP car. My problem with the 88C-V is the fact that it is just stuck to the track in stock form. Nothing handles like that thing. It should not handle better than the 21st-century cars, but it does. That ain't right.

Those pics are cool, indeed. Thanks for the link.

(By the way, I won the Formula GT champ a couple of days ago, and was pleasantly surprised to see that the Sauber C9 is not like the 88C-V. In stock form it has braking and stability issues. I wouldn't even put it in the top six or seven among the Le Mans cars. This is what the 88C-V should be like, I would think.)

 

[skud_dusty]

I hate to bring up an older post, but for me the Pescarolo sucks on b-spec. I was trying to get some money, and was "redoing" the 150 miles at the super speedway...long story short my driver couldn't get out of 6th no matter what settings I used. I sold my 88C-V for this piece of crap????

 

[Zardoz]

I hate to bring up an older post, but for me the Pescarolo sucks on b-spec. I was trying to get some money, and was "redoing" the 150 miles at the super speedway...long story short my driver couldn't get out of 6th no matter what settings I used. I sold my 88C-V for this piece of crap????

My Bob loves it:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61921

_______________________________


How many Minolta Toyotas would you like to collect this week? Money is never a problem in GT4:

_______________________________

"B-Spec Spamming The DTM"


Do you know about the DTM trick to pile up big bucks in a hurry? If not, here it is:

Run the second Special Condition (Easy) Rally d' Capri race twice, using the best car you have with Racing Medium (or Soft) tires, and sell the two Toyota RSC Rally Raid cars you'll win. Take the half-million credits you've earned, go to Germany, and buy an Opel Astra Touring Car. Buy the Stage 3 NA upgrade. After an oil change you'll have 654 HP. Use this chassis setup:

http://www.gtvault.com/SetupDisplay.cfm?SetupID=0202J844508E887CA06240441

Use those settings, but turn the TCS up to 7. I also use the Tranny Trick from GT3: Move the Final drive full right to 5.00. Move the Autoset slider full right to 25, then full left to 1, and leave it there. This gives your 6-speed the closest possible set of gears. Now adjust the Final drive for each track, or put it at 3.85 for all the DTM events if you're lazy.

Now go to the European Events and enter the Astra in the Deutsche Touring Car Meisterschaft (DTM), or, in English, the German Touring Car Championship.

B-Spec every event. Set the speed at 4, and leave "Overtake" on. Click R1 to display the map, then click and hold L1 while you D-Pad right to change the speed to x3, or three times normal. The first event on the Opera course is the toughest, but you may be able to get away with setting the speed at "5" for that race. Your B-Spec driver may still lose it even on "5", but he'll breeze through the other four races and win the series overall. Each event will only take about three minutes. If you choose to monitor things, you can blow through it all in about 17 minutes. When the prize money starts being awarded, press X or Start to speed up the process.

The prize car's resale value is 743,749. You get 15,000 for winning each event, and 75,000 for the championship, so your total haul for less than 20 minutes is 893,749.

Best of all, you can do other things while your B-Spec driver is piling up cash for you, like eating dinner or sorting socks.

Repeat early and often, again and again, as many times as you want. I like to go through it three times while I'm getting ready for work. That's about 2,700,000 without even playing. At that rate, you can collect a bunch of very expensive cars in a hurry. Keep in mind that you're putting wear and tear on your car, so you might want to give it an oil change and buy the Rigidity Refresher Plan after every three or four times you run the event.

(Use your pile of cash to get an Audi R8, BMW V12 LMR, '04 Pescarolo, or perhaps an '03 Pescarolo. The '03 version gets great tire life, giving it a big advantage over other Prototypes. Whichever one you get, you can leave the suspension settings stock, turn off ASM, buy Stage 4, the chassis stiffener, and R1, R2, and R4 tires, and have fun.)

_________________________________


"B-Spec Spamming The El Capitan 200 Enduro"

Once you've completed 25% of the game, the Enduro Events hall is unlocked. The El Capitan 200 is an easy one to win, and the prize is the fastest car in the game (other than the Formula One), the Minolta Toyota 88C-V. Win one and keep it, of course, then sell the ones you win from B-Spec spamming for 743,749 credits each. You also get 250,000 for the win, so your take is 993,749.

Race tires are not permitted, so just put Sport Hard tires on a car that will run off and hide from the fast exotic street machines that are in this event. I use the heavily-upgraded Z06 I won the Supercar Festival with, but you can use anything you like. One of the many CLK-GTR race cars you get from DTM spamming will lap the field several times, of course. Set the speed on "3", turn "Overtake" on, and it will be an unfair walk-over for your B-Spec driver. Remember to occasionally change the oil and buy the Rigidity Refresher Plan to keep your car in good shape.

The advantage of this stunt is that it is only one single race, so you can start it and walk away. Run it while you're asleep, or at work or school, and you'll be a millionaire with zero time or effort. And, of course, there is no limit on the number of times you can do this. Just remember to hit "Clear" when the choice comes up at the start each time, or you won't get a thing!

_________________________________

 

[dogdaysunrise]

Slide the Final all the way right to 5.00. Now slide the Autoset all the way right to 25, then all the way left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.

Isn't it actually:
Slide Autoset to 25.
Then slide final to 5.
then slide Autoset back to 1 and leave it.
then slide final back to around 2.3-3.0

Otherwise it makes no sense to me, cause if you just slide the autoset to 25 and back to 1, it won't do a thing, it's like you had it on 1 in the first place.

 

[`ts]

Hello

Im having trouble with the super speed ring endurance race. i have just purchased the playstation pesky i have all stock settings with stage 4 turbo. the car finishes in around 4th position. its not quite fast enough to catch up with the sauber c9 and sometimes crashes on the exit of turn 1. im running it with super hard tires front and rear and the tire wear is still not good enough to reduce the amount of pit stops. my b-spec driver was set on 4 and he has around 3000 skill points. if he is set on 3 with stock setup he isnt fast enough. can someone please help me out here i would really aprecciate a setup that reduces amount of pitstops while still having a high top speed.

thanks in advance

PS: i would have no idea where to start if i where to try to tune the car my self im a real newb

 

[rk]

Hello

Im having trouble with the super speed ring endurance race. i have just purchased the playstation pesky i have all stock settings with stage 4 turbo. the car finishes in around 4th position. its not quite fast enough to catch up with the sauber c9 and sometimes crashes on the exit of turn 1. im running it with super hard tires front and rear and the tire wear is still not good enough to reduce the amount of pit stops. my b-spec driver was set on 4 and he has around 3000 skill points. if he is set on 3 with stock setup he isnt fast enough. can someone please help me out here i would really aprecciate a setup that reduces amount of pitstops while still having a high top speed.

thanks in advance

PS: i would have no idea where to start if i where to try to tune the car my self im a real newb

Try reading the thread where you posted your question. You're welcome.

 

[coldblade28]

Thanx for all the replies and i hope you find these settings intresting.
Hope they are good. ​

Suspension
Spring Rate: Front = 13.5, Rear = 11.0
Ride Height: Front = 55, Rear = 70
Shocks:
Bound - Front = 5, Rear = 4
Rebound - Front = 7, Rear = 6
Camber: Front = 2.8, Rear = 3.0
Toe: Front = 0, Rear = -1
Stabilizers: Front = 5, Rear = 5

Driving Aids
ASM(Oversteer) = 4
ASM(Understeer) = 11
TCS = 4

Downforce
Front = Max, Rear = Max.

LSD
Initial Torque = 9
LSD Acceleration = 55
LSD DeAcceleration = 15

Transmission
1st =
2nd =
3rd =
4th =
5th =
6th =
7th = --
FINAL = (using tranny-trick, set the final to your liking)
Autoset = 1 (tranny-trick)

You may have realised i have not done the transmission because i posted this at night and i'm waaay past my sleeping time. [j/k ]
But i will try to do them as soon as possible (ASAP).
On Deep Forest i managed a time of 53.862 with racing mediums.
What do you think of these modifications.
Opinions are welcome.

 

[`ts]

Thanks coldblade those settings look great, ill try them out today and thanks for the easy read format 👍 cant wait to try them out