POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

[DaGiBUS]

I'm at work right now. Is there any way you can throw a quick video here (with decent audio) so I can see exactly what it's doing?

I haven't been around here much so covered up with Fanatec repairs lately.
Honestly I'm exhausted with the T300 it never should of went into production with an internal power supply, weak shaft neck and that damn hall sensor.
I can't think of a wheel that's had more issues, the T150 is a more reliable product.
Oh well rant over I'll try to help you but no promises they're aggravating.

More than willing to do more videos if needed.

 

[DaGiBUS]

Update 2:
I ran the wheel through the motor calibration software that was linked earlier in the thread and now the wheel rotates at the right speed both directions, however it does not slow when it nears the centre, only when it reaches the far right of rotation (approx 80-85% right axis according to control panel).

 

[DaGiBUS]

Another update:
After not long of playing with it again it showed the same floaty FFB feeling of it being messed up again. Replug in the USB cable and low-and-behold the wheel now calibrates very fast to the left and super slow to the right. Ran motor calibration again only for it to have the same issue that was in update 2. Didn't take long for another thing to go wrong, did it? It is doing exactly what is shown in the video I sent earlier, except to the opposite side, it will reach the ends of each side and successfully centre correctly following calibration. It still will not slow at centre whilst calibrating, only doing so around 80-85% right steering axis.

 

[Corsa]

Another update:
After not long of playing with it again it showed the same floaty FFB feeling of it being messed up again. Replug in the USB cable and low-and-behold the wheel now calibrates very fast to the left and super slow to the right. Ran motor calibration again only for it to have the same issue that was in update 2. Didn't take long for another thing to go wrong, did it? It is doing exactly what is shown in the video I sent earlier, except to the opposite side, it will reach the ends of each side and successfully centre correctly following calibration. It still will not slow at centre whilst calibrating, only doing so around 80-85% right steering axis.

We need to get into the T300 bulk driver to make sure you have the correct firmware that's usually where I start troubleshooting.

Do you know how to do that?

The motor and ps seem to me okay.

You said it feels "floaty" does it also feel soft, or does the ffb go light especially around center at all?

Also, try turning the wheel to the left all the way hold it there then plug in to 2.0 USB (TM wheels will act up with usb3 ports) and see if it calibrates correctly.

If you've already installed a new hall, and used the recalibration tool I'm scratching my head a little bit here.

 

[DaGiBUS]

We need to get into the T300 bulk driver to make sure you have the correct firmware that's usually where I start troubleshooting.

Do you know how to do that?

The motor and ps seem to me okay.

You said it feels "floaty" does it also feel soft, or does the ffb go light especially around center at all?

Also, try turning the wheel to the left all the way hold it there then plug in to 2.0 USB (TM wheels will act up with usb3 ports) and see if it calibrates correctly.

If you've already installed a new hall, and used the recalibration tool I'm scratching my head a little bit here.

Edit: I got the newest firmware, version 28. What do you mean by bulk driver?

 

[DaGiBUS]

I can also provide a video if needed.

 

[PaulDiRoosta]

@DaGiBUS just in case you are not aware there is a new firmware for Thrustmaster wheels

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/firmware-update-for-thrustmaster-wheels.381993/

 

[DaGiBUS]

Attached is a new video showing the previously stated calibration issue.

 

[Barry R]

Hey Folks,

so after 2 months of driving the T300 went tits up (well the throttle pedal). I cant get 100% throttle or hold it a certain amount of revs... So contacted thrustmaster customer service and they will replace the TP3A pedals... BUT

the want me to cut the USB off from the wheel..WTF.. its the pedal set that getting replaced. Surely they mean the wee connector that plugs into the wheel?

Im assuming im not the only one who has had some issues with thrustmaster. If someone can steer me in the right direction i would appreciate it

cheers
Barry

 

[PocketZeven]

Hey Folks,

so after 2 months of driving the T300 went tits up (well the throttle pedal). I cant get 100% throttle or hold it a certain amount of revs... So contacted thrustmaster customer service and they will replace the TP3A pedals... BUT

the want me to cut the USB off from the wheel..WTF.. its the pedal set that getting replaced. Surely they mean the wee connector that plugs into the wheel?

Im assuming im not the only one who has had some issues with thrustmaster. If someone can steer me in the right direction i would appreciate it

cheers
Barry

Weird. You are sure it isnt a mistransalation or typo?

 

[Outspacer]

@Barry R - the only was I can make any sense of that is that they meant cut (as in, disconnect) the power to the wheel before unplugging the pedals. Not actually cut anything off the wheelbase!

If they haven't asked you to send in the faulty pedals, I suppose they might want you to disable them by cutting the pedals' connector off, but I don't know whether they tend to ask that or not.

 

[Barry R]

Weird. You are sure it isnt a mistransalation or typo?

@Barry R - the only was I can make any sense of that is that they meant cut (as in, disconnect) the power to the wheel before unplugging the pedals. Not actually cut anything off the wheelbase!

If they haven't asked you to send in the faulty pedals, I suppose they might want you to disable them by cutting the pedals' connector off, but I don't know whether they tend to ask that or not.

Thanks folks, i emailed them back to clarify... holy smoke thankfully i didnt do what they wanted. They asked me then to cut the pedal cable on the base and email a pic... New pedals are being sent out.

 

[DaGiBUS]

Decided to post a transcription of motor calibration process. Hope it tells something.

00:00.0] Start Pre-Calibration...
00:00.8] -> Pre-Calibration 0.00%
00:02.4] -> Pre-Calibration 16.67%
00:03.8] -> Pre-Calibration 33.33%
00:05.9] -> Pre-Calibration 38.89%
00:07.0] -> Pre-Calibration 55.56%
00:07.8] -> Pre-Calibration 72.22%
00:08.7] -> Pre-Calibration 88.89%
00:10.6] Pre-Calibration Found: 0.17
00:11.1] Start Wheel Auto-Calibration!
00:11.6] Start Motor Calibration (u=0.17).
00:11.7] Waiting for Auto-Calibration...
00:16.7] Wheel Auto-Calibration exit, can start to find the solution.
00:18.5] Right Direction, place to centre...
00:20.8] Using u=0.1667 Result=0.627 (P:2.27. N:3.91, Delta=1.640)
00:22.9] Using u=0.0917 Result=2.736 (P:3.35, N:3.04, Delta=0.309)
00:24.8] Using u=0.1147 Result=2.867 (P:3:13, N:3.39, Delta=0.260)
00:24.8] Approximation Found: 0.1147 (R=2.867, Delta=0.260)
00:28.3] Adjust value to: 0.08967 (966ms vs 1249ms)
00:30.9] CALIBRATION COMPLETED, VALUE = 0.08967

 

[asteroulis]

No errors, seems fine concerning this part.

 

[DaGiBUS]

No errors, seems fine concerning this part.

It still shows the same issue as before, no matter how much I put the wheel through calibration.

 

[DaGiBUS]

I will also say that the hall sensor holder appears to be more sunk into place where the screws are compared to the rest of the part. It is not level all the way around.

 

[DaGiBUS]

You said it feels "floaty" does it also feel soft, or does the ffb go light especially around center at all?

I'd say it feels lighter more so than soft, you definitely need more steering input to make cars turn effectively.

Also, try turning the wheel to the left all the way hold it there then plug in to 2.0 USB (TM wheels will act up with usb3 ports) and see if it calibrates correctly.

I've always used USB2.0 with the T300 while using it on PC, it still shows the same issues regardless even of port used.

 

[DaGiBUS]

Is there any way of getting my wheel to running order, or should I give up hope and just buy something that isn't a TM product?

Any product recommendations?

 

[super_gt]

Any product recommendations?

On which platform you play, PC/PS4/Xbox and what is your price range?

 

[RoadBeef]

Any product recommendations?

Several people getting ready for regionals are telling me I should get a T-GT.
Maybe I'll do what an anonymous source recommended to me last night - Buy a T-GT, use it until after finals, and return it claiming some sort of defect.
Unethical Life Pro Tips

 

[super_gt]

Maybe I'll do what an anonymous source recommended to me last night - Buy a T-GT, use it until after finals, and return it claiming some sort of defect.
Unethical Life Pro Tips

 

[DaGiBUS]

On which platform you play, PC/PS4/Xbox and what is your price range?

Mainly PS4, but also some PC.
Price range is $200-$600.

 

[super_gt]

Mainly PS4, but also some PC.
Price range is $200-$600.

or should I give up hope and just buy something that isn't a TM product?

I guess you do not want to buy again Thrustmaster but there is an option to buy only new T300 base and keep using your pedals and steering wheel.
The other option is Logitech G29 which is a downgrade from T300.
Your other option is Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 Starter Kit for PC and PS4 which is better than T300 but more expensive especially if you want to add load cell and Shifter.

 

[DaGiBUS]

there is an option to buy only new T300 base

Having major trouble finding solely a base in Australia. Seems to be a classic case of us here not getting any products. Plenty of full base/wheel/pedal sets, as well as just rims and pedals. Fanatec is out of budget unfortunately. The G29 is the next best option perhaps after just getting a new T300 base, unless miraculously a fix is found for my current one.

 

[DaGiBUS]

Just another quick question: is the hall sensor holder a necessary part?

 

[asteroulis]

Of course. If it's broken the calibration issue appears.

 

[cjr3559]

Recently I discovered the fan no longer works in 'forced on' mode. I've repeatedly turned the forced mode on and off to test and the fan no longer turns on. This seems to have occurred after the v.29 update but I cannot confirm exactly when it stopped running. I know I'm eventually in for a world of hurt if the fan is dead, but anyone else have this occur after v.29? I also connected the wheel to my PC but there's no diagnostic or setting for the fan.

 

[super_gt]

Recently I discovered the fan no longer works in 'forced on' mode. I've repeatedly turned the forced mode on and off to test and the fan no longer turns on. This seems to have occurred after the v.29 update but I cannot confirm exactly when it stopped running. I know I'm eventually in for a world of hurt if the fan is dead, but anyone else have this occur after v.29? I also connected the wheel to my PC but there's no diagnostic or setting for the fan.

Does the fan work when the wheel base gets warm/hot?

 

[cjr3559]

Does the fan work when the wheel base gets warm/hot?

Nope, I happened to notice it wasn’t running after an hour stage on Dakar 18. Thought it was strange to be not running even after that long of a sustained session. Interesting the FFB seems to be fine, no power drops even without the fan.

 

[PocketZeven]

Nope, I happened to notice it wasn’t running after an hour stage on Dakar 18. Thought it was strange to be not running even after that long of a sustained session. Interesting the FFB seems to be fine, no power drops even without the fan.

Did you try it with other games?