POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 504 comments
  • 112,625 views

Have you had any problems with your T300RS/GTE?

  • Total voters
    313
Guys, I manage to install an older version of the drivers that includes the Firmware V24 and successfully downgraded to V24.

I've been testing for the last 30 minutes on the PC (Assetto Corsa) and seems pretty better. I think the problems are gone!

I'll hook it up on the PS4 just to be sure.

Anyway, I do recommend for anyone suffering problems to give the V24 a try.

Cheers,

Alex
 
axletramp
OK, I've had my T300 for a couple of months now and it looks like I'm going to be sending it back. The calibration issue became worse as has the floaty sensation when driving and lack of FFB. I've not been able to check and/or update the firmware due to not having access to a PC, so can't check if that's the issue. It all came to a head last night when I recalibrate it in Project Cars and then lost all the steering completely although all the other buttons worked fine. I restarted the PS4 and wheel and now all it does is spin violently from bump stop to bump stop and none of the usual work-arounds have any effect.

I'm waiting for a response from Thrustmaster but, going by online research, the chances are they'll want to replace it. Luckily I bought mine through Amazon so I can return it for free, get a full refund and probably get a G29 instead. Really should have done that first time as I loved my old DFGT and trust Logitech as a brand plus you can update the firmware via a Mac.

I've only used it for a total of 14 hours in those 2 months, half of which with issues. You live and learn I guess.

EDIT: It's been 3 days now and still no response from Thrustmaster. However, Amazon are sending a replacement today even though my order is over the 30 day return limit, plus I can mail back the defective wheel for free. They also responded to my email within the hour - now that's how you do good customer service Thrustmaster! Fingers crossed the new one isn't faulty. There's no way I'm going near a Thrustmaster product again if it has any hint of an issue.

BTW: I tested the wheel on my PS3 to check whether it was a PS4 or game issue, but the result was just the same. Hopefully it is a hardware issue and a replacement will fix it.
Click to expand...
Tested the replacement wheel yesterday and all is OK. I'd almost forgotten how good the FFB was supposed to feel until I used it - just goes to show how bad the original wheel had become and it clearly wasn't a firmware issue. Let's hope this new one lasts longer than seven hours usage.
 
@axletramp Glad to hear new one is working well. One of the big benefits of buying through Amazon, I bought a graphics card from them, it died after 9 months. Sent it back and I got a full refund when I'd dropped it off with the courier, before amazon had even returned it.

My T300 is fine btw, had it 2 years. So probably just bad luck. What racers you play on?
 
Sureboss
@axletramp Glad to hear new one is working well. One of the big benefits of buying through Amazon, I bought a graphics card from them, it died after 9 months. Sent it back and I got a full refund when I'd dropped it off with the courier, before amazon had even returned it.

My T300 is fine btw, had it 2 years. So probably just bad luck. What racers you play on?
Click to expand...
I bought a PS4 for Project Cars and ready for GT Sport when it's released, so needed a compatible wheel. The T300 was getting good reviews and the G29 is due for replacement this year, so I went for the Thrustmaster wheel. It was only after I received it that I discovered I couldn't update the firmware (no PC) and there were an alarming amount of reports of the calibration and loss of FFB issues. The original one I had wouldn't work whether it was connected to the PS4, PS3 or even a PC I borrowed just to try it out.

I tested the replacement last night for a few hours and all went well, but then again, so did the first one for precisely 7 hours. Just have to see I guess. I was so used to my old DFGT just working year after year that this all came as a surprise.

EDIT: The replacement T300 has gone through the 7 hour test without an issue.
 
Last edited:
Guys,

My T300RS is really problematic. After that calibration problems last week, I though I had it resolved because I played like 2 hours without any hitches.

But tonight, same thing: when I connected into the PS4, it smashes to the left side, smashes to the right side, than keeps knocking very hard on the right edge... with maximum strength! I immediately disconnect it before it damages itself even more.

Tried on the PC, same thing! And worse: now the software T300RS Angle Motor Calibration isn't detecting my wheel, so it can't calibrate. I think I'll have to update the firmware again so it can work. :(

I bought it on MediaMarkt in Germany in 28/Dec/15, I think I have 2 years of warranty (need to check that), but now I'm living in Brazil. Any suggestions other than RMA?

Thanks!

Alex
 
Last edited:
alexgontijo
Guys,

My T300RS is really problematic. After that calibration problems last week, I though I had it resolved because I played like 2 hours without any hitches.

But tonight, same thing: when I connected into the PS4, it smashes to the left side, smashes to the right side, than keeps knocking very hard on the right edge... with maximum strength! I immediately disconnect it before it damages itself even more.

Tried on the PC, same thing! And worse: now the software T300RS Angle Motor Calibration isn't detecting my wheel, so it can't calibrate. I think I'll have to update the firmware again so it can work. :(

I bought it on MediaMarkt in Germany in 28/Dec/15, I think I have 2 years of warranty (need to check that), but now I'm living in Brazil. Any suggestions other than RMA?

Thanks!

Alex
Click to expand...
From my own research and experience with this I'm more and more convinced this isn't a firmware issue. It appears that users who've updated to the latest firmware and users who have never updated the firmware are having the same problem with some T300s.

I stand to be corrected, but the firmware only appears to solve more minor in-game problems, but the one you're describing has inevitably resulted in a wheel that needs replacing or repairing by Thrustmaster. In fact, by the time the Thrustmaster tech team got back to me after 4 days (!) the first thing they suggested was for me to send it back to them for repair and not to update any firmware. This is telling as it shows how common this issue is and that Thrustmaster know the only solution is to repair/replace the faulty part of your wheel.

Luckily I'd already arranged for a replacement via Amazon (the vendor) who also paid for the return postage, meaning I didn't have to wait for god knows how many weeks for Thrustmaster to repair the original.

I think you might need to check with Thustmaster whether your warranty is honoured worldwide. You've had yours for a while now so I'm not sure how willing they'll be to fix it for free. If it does have a worldwide warranty then there should be an authorised repair centre/address in Brazil.

Good luck. :)
 
axletramp
From my own research and experience with this I'm more and more convinced this isn't a firmware issue. It appears that users who've updated to the latest firmware and users who have never updated the firmware are having the same problem with some T300s.

I stand to be corrected, but the firmware only appears to solve more minor in-game problems, but the one you're describing has inevitably resulted in a wheel that needs replacing or repairing by Thrustmaster. In fact, by the time the Thrustmaster tech team got back to me after 4 days (!) the first thing they suggested was for me to send it back to them for repair and not to update any firmware. This is telling as it shows how common this issue is and that Thrustmaster know the only solution is to repair/replace the faulty part of your wheel.

Luckily I'd already arranged for a replacement via Amazon (the vendor) who also paid for the return postage, meaning I didn't have to wait for god knows how many weeks for Thrustmaster to repair the original.

I think you might need to check with Thustmaster whether your warranty is honoured worldwide. You've had yours for a while now so I'm not sure how willing they'll be to fix it for free. If it does have a worldwide warranty then there should be an authorised repair centre/address in Brazil.

Good luck. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Axletramp, I'll contact Thrustmaster in order to check the availability of an RMA process. Unfortunately, in Brazil we don't have the official Thrustmaster repair center.

I agree with you, there is something faulty on a hardware side, because I have made all processes available of resetting to defaults and restore to the original state, and it hasn't changed anything.

I'll keep you guys updated.

Best,
Alex
 
I have two issues with my T300 that I wish to solve with Thrustmaster before the warranty expires (01/2018):

  • The right paddle shifter (R1 button) is not working 100% right - if I press it casually it won't register the command (it won't even "click"). I need to press it hard for it to work. The left one is perfectly OK and has a positive feeling when clicking. The difference between the two is huge;
  • Phantom/random button presses - this happens mainly when I make a more abrupt turn of the wheel (a correction due to unexpected oversteer, for example). It triggers - at least - the left D-pad button. But I suspect more buttons are involved.

They may not be huge problems, but they can be annoying and I fear they'll get worse with time.
 
skazz
That's only a valid statement if you really believe 144 votes is statistically significant.

How many GTP members own a T300? I'd say thousands....
Click to expand...

It's enough to deter me from buying one. 50% is 50% no matter what. I'm pretty confident if you get 1000 votes it will be fairly similar.
 
Even knowing that the wheel is not that reliable, I still buy it together with the Alcantara wheel, T3PA pedal and TH8A shifter. The set up is very good. I never regret because the FFB is so smooth and realistic especially on Assetto Corsa. I have tried the Logitech wheels and from my own opinion, T300 is way better. T300 does not have that notchy feel when you turn and the center is not loose. It feels very much like my real car Lexus IS350 with sport package.

I do have a minor issue of the wheel being disconnected after 2 hours of continuously usage especially driving around Nurburgring that is quite demanding on the wheel. I contacted Thrustmaster and they were very helpful to issue an RMA. They could not reproduce my problem even after a few weeks of testing but still replace the internal power supply for me. They really take the time to fix it. Shipping both ways from US to Canada were provided to me for free. I just received my wheel back and so far the discoonection issue is fixed. Not only that, the wheel seems even smoother than before.

Thrustmaster really stands behind their product and customer service has been top notch. I treat them with respect and they help me out professionally.
 
35mm
I have two issues with my T300 that I wish to solve with Thrustmaster before the warranty expires (01/2018):

  • The right paddle shifter (R1 button) is not working 100% right - if I press it casually it won't register the command (it won't even "click"). I need to press it hard for it to work. The left one is perfectly OK and has a positive feeling when clicking. The difference between the two is huge;
  • Phantom/random button presses - this happens mainly when I make a more abrupt turn of the wheel (a correction due to unexpected oversteer, for example). It triggers - at least - the left D-pad button. But I suspect more buttons are involved.
They may not be huge problems, but they can be annoying and I fear they'll get worse with time.
Click to expand...

"Phantom/random button presses" Its the little PS2 type connector that is the problem. It doesn't sit in far enough to the base. Plus the way it is designed there is wiggle that causes the connector to disconnect and reconnect. I had to persevere with little hard washers to stop it moving.

Any flex on the wheel would cause the connector to move a tiny bit making people think it was the buttons on the wheel. Its really the connector on the wheel to the base that is losing and remaking connections. I had to strip the wheel down to test it as well as the connector didn't feel tight when plugged into the base. I also had to gently straighten some pins for it to feel nice and tight.
 
Orayani
"Phantom/random button presses" Its the little PS2 type connector that is the problem. It doesn't sit in far enough to the base. Plus the way it is designed there is wiggle that causes the connector to disconnect and reconnect. I had to persevere with little hard washers to stop it moving.

Any flex on the wheel would cause the connector to move a tiny bit making people think it was the buttons on the wheel. Its really the connector on the wheel to the base that is losing and remaking connections. I had to strip the wheel down to test it as well as the connector didn't feel tight when plugged into the base. I also had to gently straighten some pins for it to feel nice and tight.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation. I didn't know the origin of the problem.

Still, I'll be talking to Thrustmaster about this and hope they have a fix for it. "Stripping the wheel down" and "straightening pins" is something I don't want to be doing - especially with the wheel still under warranty. ;)
 
Over two years and no issues so far. The only thing i didn't like were the pedals to be honest. My logitech DFGT had better ones. Anyways, the 599xx and th8a add ons are a must have with a Fanatec CSL elite load cell pedals to take the t300rs into a new level.

IMG_0671.JPG
 
Last edited:
EmArA
Over two years and no issues so far. The only thing i didn't like were the pedals to be honest. My logitech DFGT had better ones. Anyways, the 599xx and th8a add ons are a must have with a Fanatec CSL elite load cell pedals to take the t300rs into a new level.

View attachment 634116
Click to expand...

I have the exact same set up likes yours except I chose the Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V3 over the Elite LC :) Yep, this set up is so good.
 
FSportIS
I have the exact same set up likes yours except I chose the Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V3 over the Elite LC :) Yep, this set up is so good.
Click to expand...

How do you like the CSP V3 so far?
(The Darth Vader pedals as ISR called it once :D).
Might pull the trigger on them along with one damper and brake performance kit so i'would lke to get some feedback. Thanks

(Sorry for being off topic guys)
 
Last edited:
So hey guys I don't post here regularly but have been doing some research on other people's problems with the t300 but thus far haven't been able to find anyone describing the exact problems I have been having.

It's a bit of a long story so apollogies for that.

So yeah I've been having some issues with the t300.
I use it on ps4 with pCars and Assetto Corsa mostly.

I bought the 599 integrale set at the end of october and started having problems early december. The clutch on my t3pa's stopped working and after a little back and forth with TM sending the ussual pictures and video's (I had already had dealings with TM regarding the pedals on my old t150 so I was familliar with the process) and them sending me instructions to disassemble and inspect the pedals we (in retrospect) misdiagnosed the issue as a problem with the pedal set and they sent me a replacement set just after christmas. All in all I was pretty happy with how that went so no problems there (asside from the 4 to 8 days between email responses).

I continued using the old set of pedals as I was mostly driving cars that didn't require me to use the clutch (except for standing starts maybe) and the accelerator and brake still worked fine.
In the meantime I also noticed a weird issue where the wheel would momentarily lose contact with the console and then go through it's centering/calibration sequence when I would get up from my racing seat.

Then on February 2nd I started having an issue with the accelerator pedal on the old set aswell, so I decided to unpack the replacement set they had sent me and hook that up. To my dissapointment that set seemed to have the same problem which started me thinking the problem might be with the base instead.

I got back in contact with TM, and after 8days they asked me for another set of photo's and video's, which I uploaded and then prepared for the long wait for a reply.
While I was waiting and getting a bit impatient I decided to order a R.J12 to usb adapter so I could test both pedal sets stand alone on the PC and maybe find out where the problem was myself. Both old and replacement pedals seemed to work fine on pc so I made some more video's and sent those to TM as well.
Then on the 21st TM sent me a pre-paid postage ticket to send them my t300 base and my old set of pedals for inspection/repair.

On the 2nd of march I received my T300 base back from TM so I hooked it back up and raced for a few hours. The next day however I started to have trouble with the accelerator again. This time the accelerator would only go to about 75%, started to physically stick at about 5% when I let off and It developed a nasty creaking/groaning sound (think 2 people getting it oon in an old wooden bed).

So more tests and videos (I actually put a bit of effort in the video editing all the tests together with title cards) and I found I was now having two seperate issues.

1st: the same or a verry similar problem which I had sent the base out for in the first place; pedals do not register or register fully on console or PC while plugged into the T300 base.

2nd: the "Replacement set" TM sent me (probably a refurbished set) developed a nasty creak/groan after about 6 hours of use and the pedal sticks at about 5% when not depressed (the spring seems to catch somewhere or just be .

TM got back to me on the 8th of march and this time they wanted me to send them everything; my wheel base, rim my pedals and even the R.J12 adapter as they wanted to figure what's going on and with what. They told me that; While we had your base we experienced none of the issues you report in your video's and the base passed all our tests.

So from what I gather they sent me a badly refurbished set of pedals to replace my (in retrospect) perfectly fine pedals and tested my t300 base couldn't find the problem and just sent it back without informing me of this fact.

I'm still waiting for TM to get back to me again.

sorry for the long winded story but I wanted to be thorough
 
I think we can chalk up another score for another broken t300rs.

Got my gt edition last november, played a while with it and stopped. Got back to playing with it late this month and left it plugged in the wall supply, I usually plug it out when not in use. Then my wheel just didn't wake up after.
Sent a technical support request, but not too hopeful after reading what kind of response other owners have got through the internet.
 
Congrats EmArA, it will be sweet!!! There is one cons though. From now on, you will complain that many other pedals let it be stock from G29, T300 and even the good ones like T3PA, T3PA Pro etc feeling like toys. Seriously, after playing with the V3 for like few weeks and then I took the T3PA out yesterday, it is day and night difference. The T3PA feels completely numb with no force at all.

With that said, Thurstmaster T300 wheelbase + Alcantara Ferrari replica wheel + Fanatec ClubSport V3 Pedal + CPX Adapter + Next Level Sim Racing Wheel Stand + Playstation Virtual Reality + Project Cars 2 on VR = pure happiness :) That is my current set up right now.
 
So i had to send two videos, stuff isn't settled and apparently i missed some steps. I think next time round i might try the g29 if it'll be less headache. And then treat my t300 to a hammer. Or i might try some ghetto power supply trick i've been reading about.
 
Add me to the list of people with issues.

Got my T300RS GT Edition on June 1st, died this morning, AFTER 3 DAYS. It just died completely in the middle of the corkscrew at Laguna Seca in iRacing. No power, no lights, nothing. Suspecting a power supply failure. Returned the wheel to the store I bought it and now I'm just gonna wait for that Fanatec CSL Elite to come to Canada.

Not a really good first impression from Thrustmaster here :(
 
If you are playing on PC, the T500 is great choice, but now with the CSL Elite... very curious on the reviews yet to come.
 

Similar threads

RealRacinGuy
Thrustmaster T300RS
Replies
0
Views
567
RealRacinGuy
RealRacinGuy
B
Thrustmaster T300RS spontaneously recalibrates in middle of game
Replies
1
Views
996
Daz555
D
mixamun
Thrustmaster T300RS GT questions - Transitioning from G923
Replies
4
Views
11K
gelagmeierter
G
I
DYI: using Thrustmaster wheels with QR and working buttons on DD wheelbase like VRS DirectForce Pro / MiGE 130ST
Replies
19
Views
6K
insert coin
I
W
Fanatec DD Pro compatibility with older console games
Replies
8
Views
9K
Monkey Man
Monkey Man

Latest Posts

Back