Post a pic of your real car
- Thread starter Sparxxx
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- A field in England
Well, I was busy yesterday. It wasn't my own car, but I had to restore the faded red paintwork of a 17-year-old Suzuki Alto. Here's some before and after photos of the little beast.
Say what you will but this little motor is my masterpiece. And it was all done...
BY HAND! No machine polishing here. I look like a lop-sided Popeye now.
Say what you will but this little motor is my masterpiece. And it was all done...
BY HAND! No machine polishing here. I look like a lop-sided Popeye now.
- 5,610
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
- 1,969
- A field in England
@Katiegan and @MidnightRun85 it was quite a process, but I used a few different products, all from autosmart. Text-wall incoming.
They're a french company, which makes me surprised I'd go anywhere near them, based on their ability to make cars (or lack thereof...).
Anyway, basically I went panel by panel, first I'd wash the panel, soapy sponge'll do, then dry the panel. Then I used a polishing sponge (not far different to a household sponge, not very soft, somewhat abrasive) to apply autosmart's Evo 3 compound polish which can be found on Ebay for about £15 a litre. After that, I'd rinse the panel, then re-wash it and dry it. depending on how badly it's faded this process would have to be repeated another 2 times normally.
What all of that basically does is take the top layer of paint off, which has basically gone pink and powdery, leaving the car rough to the touch. So, after taking that off, most of my equipment was smeared pink.
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
Polish. The product I used was autosmart Platinum. It's a silicone based polish (yes, I know, silicone's bad for anything involving a bodyshop but the results are the tattibojangles) that offers a small amount of wet weather protection and provides a deep shine (especially on black cars). It's basically halfway between a polish and a wax but it's very easy to apply.
If you're simply polishing a newer car, one thing that's proved useful to me is to go over the body panel with solvent-based tree-sap/tar remover first (autosmart tardis). That can remove any bits of grit, tar or bug-droppings that just washing the car doesn't get rid of. Polish the car right afterwards and it leaves the paintwork smoother to the touch, and it stays cleaner as a result.
Sorry for the ridiculous text wedge, but you dared ask!
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
They're a french company, which makes me surprised I'd go anywhere near them, based on their ability to make cars (or lack thereof...).
Anyway, basically I went panel by panel, first I'd wash the panel, soapy sponge'll do, then dry the panel. Then I used a polishing sponge (not far different to a household sponge, not very soft, somewhat abrasive) to apply autosmart's Evo 3 compound polish which can be found on Ebay for about £15 a litre. After that, I'd rinse the panel, then re-wash it and dry it. depending on how badly it's faded this process would have to be repeated another 2 times normally.
What all of that basically does is take the top layer of paint off, which has basically gone pink and powdery, leaving the car rough to the touch. So, after taking that off, most of my equipment was smeared pink.
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
Polish. The product I used was autosmart Platinum. It's a silicone based polish (yes, I know, silicone's bad for anything involving a bodyshop but the results are the tattibojangles) that offers a small amount of wet weather protection and provides a deep shine (especially on black cars). It's basically halfway between a polish and a wax but it's very easy to apply.
If you're simply polishing a newer car, one thing that's proved useful to me is to go over the body panel with solvent-based tree-sap/tar remover first (autosmart tardis). That can remove any bits of grit, tar or bug-droppings that just washing the car doesn't get rid of. Polish the car right afterwards and it leaves the paintwork smoother to the touch, and it stays cleaner as a result.
Sorry for the ridiculous text wedge, but you dared ask!
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
- 14,417
- Wellington
@Katiegan and @MidnightRun85 it was quite a process, but I used a few different products, all from autosmart. Text-wall incoming.
They're a french company, which makes me surprised I'd go anywhere near them, based on their ability to make cars (or lack thereof...).
Anyway, basically I went panel by panel, first I'd wash the panel, soapy sponge'll do, then dry the panel. Then I used a polishing sponge (not far different to a household sponge, not very soft, somewhat abrasive) to apply autosmart's Evo 3 compound polish which can be found on Ebay for about £15 a litre. After that, I'd rinse the panel, then re-wash it and dry it. depending on how badly it's faded this process would have to be repeated another 2 times normally.
What all of that basically does is take the top layer of paint off, which has basically gone pink and powdery, leaving the car rough to the touch. So, after taking that off, most of my equipment was smeared pink.
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
Polish. The product I used was autosmart Platinum. It's a silicone based polish (yes, I know, silicone's bad for anything involving a bodyshop but the results are the tattibojangles) that offers a small amount of wet weather protection and provides a deep shine (especially on black cars). It's basically halfway between a polish and a wax but it's very easy to apply.
If you're simply polishing a newer car, one thing that's proved useful to me is to go over the body panel with solvent-based tree-sap/tar remover first (autosmart tardis). That can remove any bits of grit, tar or bug-droppings that just washing the car doesn't get rid of. Polish the car right afterwards and it leaves the paintwork smoother to the touch, and it stays cleaner as a result.
Sorry for the ridiculous text wedge, but you dared ask!
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
I'd also add that clay bars are also a good idea, otherwise any stuff that wasn't picked up is scoured into the paintwork.
Fantastic turnaround though.
- 5,905
- West Yorkshire
- Katiegan
- KatieB53
@Katiegan and @MidnightRun85 it was quite a process, but I used a few different products, all from autosmart. Text-wall incoming.
They're a french company, which makes me surprised I'd go anywhere near them, based on their ability to make cars (or lack thereof...).
Anyway, basically I went panel by panel, first I'd wash the panel, soapy sponge'll do, then dry the panel. Then I used a polishing sponge (not far different to a household sponge, not very soft, somewhat abrasive) to apply autosmart's Evo 3 compound polish which can be found on Ebay for about £15 a litre. After that, I'd rinse the panel, then re-wash it and dry it. depending on how badly it's faded this process would have to be repeated another 2 times normally.
What all of that basically does is take the top layer of paint off, which has basically gone pink and powdery, leaving the car rough to the touch. So, after taking that off, most of my equipment was smeared pink.
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
Polish. The product I used was autosmart Platinum. It's a silicone based polish (yes, I know, silicone's bad for anything involving a bodyshop but the results are the tattibojangles) that offers a small amount of wet weather protection and provides a deep shine (especially on black cars). It's basically halfway between a polish and a wax but it's very easy to apply.
If you're simply polishing a newer car, one thing that's proved useful to me is to go over the body panel with solvent-based tree-sap/tar remover first (autosmart tardis). That can remove any bits of grit, tar or bug-droppings that just washing the car doesn't get rid of. Polish the car right afterwards and it leaves the paintwork smoother to the touch, and it stays cleaner as a result.
Sorry for the ridiculous text wedge, but you dared ask!
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
We use Autosmart products at work, and I have to say Tardis is really good. I'd be surprised if the Autoglym tar remover I recently bought is as good as that.
Also, you should keep us posted in The Detailing and Washing Thread next time you do a job, would love to see more!
- 5,610
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
Great to know what products you're using and the approach. Meticulous is the word that comes to mind! I've got some T-cut paint restorer that I'm planning on using when I get a free weekend, to pull back some lustre and shine on the panels I recently added to my car. Seems the previous owner of that car (bonnet and front right wing) didn't care as much as I do for mine....@Katiegan and @MidnightRun85 it was quite a process, but I used a few different products, all from autosmart. Text-wall incoming.
They're a french company, which makes me surprised I'd go anywhere near them, based on their ability to make cars (or lack thereof...).
Anyway, basically I went panel by panel, first I'd wash the panel, soapy sponge'll do, then dry the panel. Then I used a polishing sponge (not far different to a household sponge, not very soft, somewhat abrasive) to apply autosmart's Evo 3 compound polish which can be found on Ebay for about £15 a litre. After that, I'd rinse the panel, then re-wash it and dry it. depending on how badly it's faded this process would have to be repeated another 2 times normally.
What all of that basically does is take the top layer of paint off, which has basically gone pink and powdery, leaving the car rough to the touch. So, after taking that off, most of my equipment was smeared pink.
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
Polish. The product I used was autosmart Platinum. It's a silicone based polish (yes, I know, silicone's bad for anything involving a bodyshop but the results are the tattibojangles) that offers a small amount of wet weather protection and provides a deep shine (especially on black cars). It's basically halfway between a polish and a wax but it's very easy to apply.
If you're simply polishing a newer car, one thing that's proved useful to me is to go over the body panel with solvent-based tree-sap/tar remover first (autosmart tardis). That can remove any bits of grit, tar or bug-droppings that just washing the car doesn't get rid of. Polish the car right afterwards and it leaves the paintwork smoother to the touch, and it stays cleaner as a result.
Sorry for the ridiculous text wedge, but you dared ask!
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
ROAD_DOGG33J
Premium
- 14,300
- IL, USA
- holyc0w1
- holyc0w
...
So, once the decent, un-faded layers of paint underneath were exposed, I completely washed the entire car, as you would any normal car that hadn't just been compounded for the last 3 hours. That got any excess residue off (especially around rubber/plastic trim and windows) ready for the final step.
...
Probably worth noting that if your car isn't an old red japanese car/vauxhall this is all pointless drivel
Hmm... I take it that Suzuki used single stage paint on this car?
- 8,847
- Ottawa
- Automotive_Buff
- 3,990
- Chicago
- fortbo
- fortbo
Deer happened to the A6.I see you like your Audis in white
Did you trade in your A6 for it or do you still have it?
- 8,847
- Ottawa
- Automotive_Buff
S4*
Owwwww. Hope you're okay man. (I know, top notch safety from the A6 but still)
- 2,436
- Eastern PA
- Weather_Systems
S4*
Why I thought an S4 was an S5 is beyond me... shows just how coherent I am with a sinus infection.
- 3,990
- Chicago
- fortbo
- fortbo
Yeah, and I didn't hit the deer. I regretfully tried to miss the deer which is something I usually wouldn't do and the gravel pulled the car off the road into a poll. It was a twisty road so I couldn't really recover. At least I wasn't going that fast because it could have been worse. Either way the car would have been totaled, but I'd rather hit a deer than a pole even though I do love animals.S4*
Owwwww. Hope you're okay man. (I know, top notch safety from the A6 but still)
- 1,969
- A field in England
I'd try a compound polish personally, they normally don't smear as much, and as long as you use a wet cloth it's easy enough to remove the residue. Can take a bit longer with that, though.
One thing I've tried which really helps is to go over the panel with tar remover first like I mentioned earlier. The effect is similar to using a clay bar without the potential damage if you get it wrong. Obviously it's not quite as effective, hence no risk of damage, but as long as you rinse the panel (damp cloth will do) it does a good job.
And @fortbo - it wasn't quite a deer, but I had a lucky escape when my Corsa had a meeting with a muntjac deer's face. Luckily it was only the face. For me, not the stupid deer thing that ran out in front of me. That died. Slowly, I think! You'd think Darwinism would dictate that animals that think it's okay to run out in front of cars would die out... I wish...
@ROAD_DOGG33J - Probably. Most little japanese cars at the time, especially red Suzukis, had terrible quality of finish. Not many red cars have a decent finish mind, even today. Volvo have a very high-quality finish (especially black) and surprisingly Peugeot's red isn't too bad. VW group could be better, but then it could be worse (like Opel/Vauxhall...).
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- 399
- Melbourne, Straya
- M_Hocking
- Sp3edst3r
Been a while since i posted here, then again hadn't done much to my car since i got it.
But today was the day i decided to do a little exterior modding! With a good old brake tint using Nite-Shade.
So i took the rear lights out (alot easier than i thought) and cleaned them and degreased them and all that, and got to tinting. After an hour and 3 coats, i got these:
(Whatarethooooooose)
Few hours later i put them on me car and tried them out:
It looks great at night/when the lights are on:
I also bought a new stereo
:
But today was the day i decided to do a little exterior modding! With a good old brake tint using Nite-Shade.
So i took the rear lights out (alot easier than i thought) and cleaned them and degreased them and all that, and got to tinting. After an hour and 3 coats, i got these:
(Whatarethooooooose)
Few hours later i put them on me car and tried them out:
It looks great at night/when the lights are on:
I also bought a new stereo
:
- 5,760
- Pennsylvania
- Ilikewaffles_11
Nothing like waiting for lug nuts to arrive off of eBay when you really just wanna give it a test run!
Here's a test fit. I'm excited
Here's a test fit. I'm excited
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