R-Pod MkII Custom Rig Build - VR Enabled
- Thread starter ericleroi
- 165 comments
- 24,336 views
, excuse the OT. 
- 203
Couldn't wait so I got busy attaching the side panel. The glue looks to have dried (I should have waited really but am keen to get this complete and no damage was done).
Pictures are rubbish and don't do it justice so I'll take some more tomorrow:
The Picture captures blue light for some reason:
Grainy dark picture:
It will look a lot better and more balanced once the main dashboard surface is in-place.
Pictures are rubbish and don't do it justice so I'll take some more tomorrow:
The Picture captures blue light for some reason:
Grainy dark picture:
It will look a lot better and more balanced once the main dashboard surface is in-place.
👍
- 203
Thanks guys 
After having road tested the rig for a while, I was finding that despite the shelf bracing, there was still a bit of vertical flex. Not enough to be a deal breaker but sufficient for me to do something about it. It looks to be the MDF itself which is bending between the lower braces so I have reinforced it with another sheet. This kills 2 birds with one stone as I actually wanted the wheel another couple of cm higher. Hopefully it will remove the flex completely:
I want to make sure everything as good as I can reasonably get it before applying the final vinyl to the front.
After having road tested the rig for a while, I was finding that despite the shelf bracing, there was still a bit of vertical flex. Not enough to be a deal breaker but sufficient for me to do something about it. It looks to be the MDF itself which is bending between the lower braces so I have reinforced it with another sheet. This kills 2 birds with one stone as I actually wanted the wheel another couple of cm higher. Hopefully it will remove the flex completely:
I want to make sure everything as good as I can reasonably get it before applying the final vinyl to the front.
- 203
This is a warts and all build so a few pictures of the progress today. I've been inching towards the vinal application but needed to get all those last little jobs complete.
First up, now that I have been able to attach the sides for the dashboard, I was able to determine how much space I need to allow for to fit switches. These are deep and I don't want to compromise on the layout so ... time for a bit of butchering.
First the sides:
Then the panels:
Holes have also been drilled on the main rig for the LEDs. Lots of lining up, assembling and disassembling.
Prepare the internal screws to attach the panels to the sides making sure I hit a 'thick' part and don't end up screwing through the inlays:
I have some of these to cover them:
Some nice big screws for some extra, extra added stability to the wheel support:
The stability is improved considerably and barely moves at all.
Also tidied uo the bottom panel (the one with the tow hook), some flush trimming, filling, sanding and painting (I need to put a couple more coats on and apply vinyl to the back of it):
An extra power strip was attached after cutting the cable down to size.
Wiring for the lower LEDs was also prepares and run through the cable sheathing.
Still need to give is a bit of a clean inside.
A productive day without too much to show for it though
First up, now that I have been able to attach the sides for the dashboard, I was able to determine how much space I need to allow for to fit switches. These are deep and I don't want to compromise on the layout so ... time for a bit of butchering.
First the sides:
Then the panels:
Holes have also been drilled on the main rig for the LEDs. Lots of lining up, assembling and disassembling.
Prepare the internal screws to attach the panels to the sides making sure I hit a 'thick' part and don't end up screwing through the inlays:
I have some of these to cover them:
Some nice big screws for some extra, extra added stability to the wheel support:
The stability is improved considerably and barely moves at all.
Also tidied uo the bottom panel (the one with the tow hook), some flush trimming, filling, sanding and painting (I need to put a couple more coats on and apply vinyl to the back of it):
An extra power strip was attached after cutting the cable down to size.
Wiring for the lower LEDs was also prepares and run through the cable sheathing.
Still need to give is a bit of a clean inside.
A productive day without too much to show for it though
- 203
With the remaining filler sanded down ad a few extra spots re-done, it was time to apply the vinyl. Two hands are better than one for larger, more complex surfaces. Before starting, it goes without saying that the area should be inspected very carefully for debris. Typically, I will is a duster and then brush with my hands.
Line the vinyl up and push it firmly around the first edge. It's a very important step to ensure there are no bubbles. All the places where I've applied previously haven't developed any. Note: 90 decree angles are very difficult and typicaly I will try and avoid that or use a light chamfer to help it along.
Step 1: line the vinyl up and negotiate the first edge:
Step 2: carefully draw back the backing paper and smooth the vinyl on:
Step 3: continue to cover the piece, ensuring to press firmly around any remaining edges:
Step 4: rough trim excess to allow the final trim to be easier:
Step 5: get the tools ready, a decent flat length of wood strip and a sharp knife:
Step 6: work in sections to make the process easier:
Step 7: complete all the sides:
On close inspection, it looks to have gone on very well with no bumps or air bubbles.
Line the vinyl up and push it firmly around the first edge. It's a very important step to ensure there are no bubbles. All the places where I've applied previously haven't developed any. Note: 90 decree angles are very difficult and typicaly I will try and avoid that or use a light chamfer to help it along.
Step 1: line the vinyl up and negotiate the first edge:
Step 2: carefully draw back the backing paper and smooth the vinyl on:
Step 3: continue to cover the piece, ensuring to press firmly around any remaining edges:
Step 4: rough trim excess to allow the final trim to be easier:
Step 5: get the tools ready, a decent flat length of wood strip and a sharp knife:
Step 6: work in sections to make the process easier:
Step 7: complete all the sides:
On close inspection, it looks to have gone on very well with no bumps or air bubbles.
- 203
I bought one of these to control the lighting:
Completed the lighting for the wiring (hot glue gun will be used to make all the wiring secure):
Side:
Top (this will be masked considerably by the monitor hood so only a thin slice of light comes through - can you slice light?):
Nose:
It looks like a solaruim in there ... best get some tanning lotion ...
Edit: wheel on, back in business
Completed the lighting for the wiring (hot glue gun will be used to make all the wiring secure):
Side:
Top (this will be masked considerably by the monitor hood so only a thin slice of light comes through - can you slice light?):
Nose:
It looks like a solaruim in there ... best get some tanning lotion ...
Edit: wheel on, back in business
Last edited:
- 203
Started on the dashboard top panel. This is what I call a 4 hour piece of wood.
Cutouts to allow the piece to slot in:
Beveling on the front face:
Extra depth to avoid the CSW wheel base interfering with the panel:
Curved around the CSW base to ensure it's visible:
The whole piece will be covered in leather material. The back will be hidden by the monitor hood.
Cutouts to allow the piece to slot in:
Beveling on the front face:
Extra depth to avoid the CSW wheel base interfering with the panel:
Curved around the CSW base to ensure it's visible:
The whole piece will be covered in leather material. The back will be hidden by the monitor hood.
- 203
Cheers fatkrakr 
Most of this morning was spent finishing off the dash top plate and designing the dash panel. I also rough cut one of the sides for the monitor hood. It still needs quite a bit of work yet:
I made a template for the dash panel which took much longer than expected and then cut both of them out:
The lower part will have a vinyl R-Pod logo:
And will be covered in real carbon fibre:
Most of this morning was spent finishing off the dash top plate and designing the dash panel. I also rough cut one of the sides for the monitor hood. It still needs quite a bit of work yet:
I made a template for the dash panel which took much longer than expected and then cut both of them out:
The lower part will have a vinyl R-Pod logo:
And will be covered in real carbon fibre:
Really cool setup! So is R-pod a company that builds this stuff or...? I'm a bit confused as to who made what. I really have been wanting to do something like this as a hobby for a long time, but I'm not good at that kinda stuff so I will just get something pre made.
Couple silly questions: what is this red canister? Also, does the seat cut off blood flow to the legs? It looks uncomfortable to me, but for all I know it might be super comfy.
Couple silly questions: what is this red canister? Also, does the seat cut off blood flow to the legs? It looks uncomfortable to me, but for all I know it might be super comfy.
- 203
Thanks ropeadope. R-Pod was just a name that came to me when I built MK I - the 'R' is short for either 'racing' or the first letter of my surname
So R-Pod is just a bloke having fun imagining designs and trying to get creative. It's a hobby really. It helps that I enjoy various types of games and simulations too as most of my creations have been built around gaming.
I had zero woodworking skills a few years ago and feel fairly competent now just through practice.
The red canister is a vehicle fire extiguisher - just for show really. The seat is super comfortable.
So R-Pod is just a bloke having fun imagining designs and trying to get creative. It's a hobby really. It helps that I enjoy various types of games and simulations too as most of my creations have been built around gaming.
I had zero woodworking skills a few years ago and feel fairly competent now just through practice.
The red canister is a vehicle fire extiguisher - just for show really. The seat is super comfortable.
- 203
All the pieces for the monitor cover have been cut:
I've cut a hole in the top which will allow TrackIR to be fitted. I will be amking another box to fit on the top of the monitor to house the TrackIR receiver. Connected by convoluted sheathing rather than an ugly, thin wire:
Currently gluing everything together (epoxy with some extra wood glue down the sides. I've made some braces for added support and will attach these later:
I've cut a hole in the top which will allow TrackIR to be fitted. I will be amking another box to fit on the top of the monitor to house the TrackIR receiver. Connected by convoluted sheathing rather than an ugly, thin wire:
Currently gluing everything together (epoxy with some extra wood glue down the sides. I've made some braces for added support and will attach these later:
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