Racing C63 AMG tuning,help needed.

  • Thread starter phil bell
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PepsiMaxCrew
Hey guy's,the C63 in question has 591hp and 1420kg's of weight.Using it for the V8 challenge series.Coming out of a Blitz Dunlop Skyline with similar PP Im shocked at how bad the C63 is.

The big problem is the overall feeling of the car,it feels "pushy loose" on corner entry and the steering is completely dead,devoid of any feedback and with alot of "slack" in it.It's also unstable under braking with constant lock up's in the rear.

Additionally I cannot get the gearbox ratios to work right,any way I do it first gear always ends up being way to short rendering it completely useless.Feels like it's missing an LSD as well.

The settings are as follows;

Drivetrain: (front/rear)
Initial Torque: 0/15
Acceleration: 0/30
Deceleration: 0/15

Suspension: (front/rear)
Ride Height: -15/-15
Spring Rates (kgf/mm): 7.0/7.0
Dampers Extension: 5/4
Dampers Compression: 4/4
Anti-Roll Bars: 4/5
Camber: 1.9/0.9
Toe: -0.03/+0.05

Brake Balance (front/rear): 5/2

Ballast:17kg,50 clicks towards the rear

Additional data:Has carbon bonnet,does not respond well to trail braking,can't use much steering angle.
 
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Here's a crazy idea. Use a tune from someone who knows what they're doing.

Heres another idea,just found a tune and realised that it's pretty similar to whats listed here.Well at least in the right direction with regards to set up.So gonna try that.
Oh and just to make it clear,I posted this cos the advanced search turned up nothing.Was suprised the standard search worked better.
 
Oh and just to make it clear,I posted this cos the advanced search turned up nothing.

What you actually mean by this, is that Advanced Search doesn't lead to to a thread, with an exact title of the car... Because Advanced Search turns up plenty of tunes for this car, you just couldn't be bothered to enter a single tuning garage to check, right?

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Idk why your running positive toe in the rear unless you like to slide on some corners. Positive toe will just increase your lift off, positive toe is usually only used in drifting. Worry about the gears last. Let's get that big sedan to turn. What track you racing on? Is it going to be a fair distance race where tire wear comes into play? If so you are running some very aggressive camber as well, if your on a track like la sarthe or monza you don't need that much of camber. I would run 0.6/0.4

Your brake balance IMO is way out to lunch. When you slam on your brakes all your weight is being shifted forward, then you hit the gas so it'shifting backwards and your running almost 600hp so your car is going to turn into an American muscle car where it's under steer over steer back n forth. I usally run same brake balance front n rear depending on car n the track,

For your shocks, just play with them. Run stiffer set up then try softer. Every car reacts different. Unless your running at the northern loop then you would want to soften them shocks up.

Hope some of this information helps
 
The big problem is the overall feeling of the car,it feels "pushy loose" on corner entry and the steering is completely dead,devoid of any feedback and with alot of "slack" in it.It's also unstable under braking with constant lock up's in the rear.

I have no idea what "pushy loose" means. Pushy and loose are two diametically opposed things. The only thing I really understand here is "unstable under braking", in which case I'd move the brake bias further forward and raise the LSD decel.

Idk why your running positive toe in the rear unless you like to slide on some corners. Positive toe will just increase your lift off, positive toe is usually only used in drifting.

You've got it backwards. 0.05 is practically zero, anyways.
 
I have no idea what "pushy loose" means.

It's a common circle track term. The car is pushing, so you keep putting more and more wheel into it, then, as soon as the front tires get enough grip, the rear end will snap loose, because of the sharp turning angle and sudden change of direction. Technically, it's just understeer, but the term is fairly common and has been widely used for a rather long time.
 
It's a common circle track term. The car is pushing, so you keep putting more and more wheel into it, then, as soon as the front tires get enough grip, the rear end will snap loose, because of the sharp turning angle and sudden change of direction. Technically, it's just understeer, but the term is fairly common and has been widely used for a rather long time.

Good to have a dictionary like you on gtplanet, this morning, just before lunch, i've try to check the signification of "skid marks"... Man , i'll never do this again. At least not before lunch time.
 
It's a common circle track term. The car is pushing, so you keep putting more and more wheel into it, then, as soon as the front tires get enough grip, the rear end will snap loose, because of the sharp turning angle and sudden change of direction. Technically, it's just understeer, but the term is fairly common and has been widely used for a rather long time.

Learn something every day. Sounds more like driver error, in that case.
 
Good to have a dictionary like you on gtplanet, this morning, just before lunch, i've try to check the signification of "skid marks"... Man , i'll never do this again. At least not before lunch time.

LMAO... Oh yeah. Here in America we have some funny terms.
The skid marks I was referring to, don't happen to be the ones on your unmentionables ;)

Skid marks, is just another term for tread marks. The black rubber build up, left on the road, by the tires. Most commonly from burn outs ;)


Learn something every day. Sounds more like driver error, in that case.
Indirectly, I suppose that's true. But the root of the problem stems from trying to force an ill-handling car to turn. So, from a drivers point of view, it's a setup problem. But I also agree, that 'more wheel' isn't the most effective way for a driver to deal with understeer.
 
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