Rally Intermediate Stage
- Thread starter phhsdiego
- 38 comments
- 4,173 views
turn off traction control otherwise the RPMs drop and take a while to come back up.
use a 4WD car
make it lighter
don't set the ride height as low as you would for a car racing on the track, you need some suspension travel and softer settings for dirt/snow. even the tarmac event is pretty bumpy for a car that is too low.
brake early
pump the throttle to get some grip through the corners (particularly on the icy sections of Chamonix) before going wide open on the exit
use a 4WD car
make it lighter
don't set the ride height as low as you would for a car racing on the track, you need some suspension travel and softer settings for dirt/snow. even the tarmac event is pretty bumpy for a car that is too low.
brake early
pump the throttle to get some grip through the corners (particularly on the icy sections of Chamonix) before going wide open on the exit
I beat this one fairly easily once I unlearned what I had learned about rally driving from GT3/4.
As to the car, I used an STI with just as many engine mods as I could do without going over hte 345 hp limit (I think I got it quite close -342 or so). No suspension, transmission, or body modifications needed. I might have done a clutch and flywheel but they aren't crucial, and I could have gone even faster if I had lightened the car but it didn't seem necessary.
Basically the formula is: AWD, close to max allowed HP, no traction control or other driver aids like ASM and just minimal ABS.
As to the driving, by unlearning what I previously learned I mean that in previous Gran Turismos you could get away with much more slide angle and much earlier throttle - I would often just brake slightly, whip the car in the direction of the turn, and hammer the gas long before apex and just rocket through a turn. Can't do that in GT5. Sliding more than about 20* angle means you just slide sideways into the guardrail and lose lots of time. You want to brake early and hard and get your speed down to the appropriate speed for the coming turn, nudge the front end towards the apex, and use partial throttle (not mashing it) to get the tires spinning and rotate the rear end around the turn without too much angle, and really get on the gas only once you can see the exit of the turn.
About the Loeb challenge some are talking about, the trick is to run those events enough to know the track perfectly, and once you do, be smooth and take your time to always slow appropriately prior to the turn and minimize sliding as much as absolutely possible. In the intro they say that Loeb says he always tries to minimize sliding because in doing so you lose time. Trust him.
As to the car, I used an STI with just as many engine mods as I could do without going over hte 345 hp limit (I think I got it quite close -342 or so). No suspension, transmission, or body modifications needed. I might have done a clutch and flywheel but they aren't crucial, and I could have gone even faster if I had lightened the car but it didn't seem necessary.
Basically the formula is: AWD, close to max allowed HP, no traction control or other driver aids like ASM and just minimal ABS.
As to the driving, by unlearning what I previously learned I mean that in previous Gran Turismos you could get away with much more slide angle and much earlier throttle - I would often just brake slightly, whip the car in the direction of the turn, and hammer the gas long before apex and just rocket through a turn. Can't do that in GT5. Sliding more than about 20* angle means you just slide sideways into the guardrail and lose lots of time. You want to brake early and hard and get your speed down to the appropriate speed for the coming turn, nudge the front end towards the apex, and use partial throttle (not mashing it) to get the tires spinning and rotate the rear end around the turn without too much angle, and really get on the gas only once you can see the exit of the turn.
About the Loeb challenge some are talking about, the trick is to run those events enough to know the track perfectly, and once you do, be smooth and take your time to always slow appropriately prior to the turn and minimize sliding as much as absolutely possible. In the intro they say that Loeb says he always tries to minimize sliding because in doing so you lose time. Trust him.
- 2,823
I used an R34 GT-R because it was the only 4WD car I had and I managed to come second with some pretty average driving. So yeah I think if you can get your ahnds on a WRC car you should be fine.
Have to say it is a shame that we don't get to see any proper rally stages. Long, narrow and technical. I tried to create something like that in the course maker but it doesn't let you go narrow enough
Have to say it is a shame that we don't get to see any proper rally stages. Long, narrow and technical. I tried to create something like that in the course maker but it doesn't let you go narrow enough
- 19
- thecrackajack
If you set up your suspension to avoid understeer, then there is absolutely no need to "drift". If you time it right, which is near impossible with a controller like I use, you can brake as you slide into the turn until you reach an appropriate speed to get through the turn.
Most rally racers try to avoid excessively sliding, because the unpredictability of rally courses tends to limit a driver's ability to control a drift. For example, watch some of Ken Block's videos on youtube. Although he is a god among men in his gymkhana videos, he doesn't do so well in WRC because he takes those same drifting skills he does in a parking lot somewhere and applies them to rally courses. They are two completely different sports, which require a different mix of skills.
- 34
- Raleigh, NC
- JediBattousai
- ScionPowered
If you want the tragically easy way to do it, SRF on, ABS 1, everything else off, and change the torque distribution to 45/55 or 50/50 in the RA menu.
You can also gold Sebatian Loeb within the first 3 tries on each track with that setup (can play around with Active Steering also, turning it to strong with SRF is just like driving in rain in AMG. loads of grip), and then use the C4 WRC on everything else. The STI or Evo would also be good choices for intermediate if you just want to get that done.
You can also gold Sebatian Loeb within the first 3 tries on each track with that setup (can play around with Active Steering also, turning it to strong with SRF is just like driving in rain in AMG. loads of grip), and then use the C4 WRC on everything else. The STI or Evo would also be good choices for intermediate if you just want to get that done.
