RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

[ALB123]

Oh man...A new version of the Nick's Forza Dino! Boy, I would love to have your exact car setup in AC. Your previous Dino setup was awesome. I'm sure this thing must totally rock as well. 👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Hello there my friend. Good to see you've been doing a little work on your Ferrari stable I've not had the chance to try out the new Dino and 512BB yet but did take my brave pill this morning and took out the older spec Nicks Forza Dino out to Big Willow for a blast on CS with abs=0, after only just scraping a win on the SH tyre with abs on
View attachment 565463
Boy that was close

I'll be giving the new one a run out later and see how it compares 👍

The Dino and 512BB are not really new tunes, they are just slightly modified build from the old ones, you'll see 512BB has more changes this time, damper are set for better stability and excels in mixed compound tire CS/SH

Don't forget the 458 Italia Challenge, I updated the post with added body rigidity, I forgot to typed it in. The car has been tuned in similar handling to F355 and F430 Challenge from another game ( Ferrari The Race Experience ), it's quite stable and but still exciting on racing hard tire. Try at Daytona Road after watching the video I linked in the post. Have fun

Oh man...A new version of the Nick's Forza Dino! Boy, I would love to have your exact car setup in AC. Your previous Dino setup was awesome. I'm sure this thing must totally rock as well. 👍

There's Dino in AC ? If there's F355 Challenge and Testarossa I would be crazy tuning it in AC

I'm going to post another Ferrari soon, this time it's focused on sports + racing tire, as the real one often fitted with slicks. The car is still slower than the Pagani Zonda R though, Zonda R has way more aero/downforce. This Ferrari also exhibited strange behavior ( aero ), it lifted while losing control at Midfield up hill after the tunnel, but not the front end, the rear end flew

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

FERRARI FXX

Tuned to replicate Ferrari FXX
Comfort Soft to Racing Hard​

CAR : Ferrari FXX '07
Tire : Comfort Soft to Racing Hard

Specs Base
Horsepower: 788 HP / 799 PS at 9000 RPM
Torque: 506.3 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1305 kg
Ballast : 160 kg
Ballast Position : 30
Weight Distribution : 41 / 59 - used FXX-K Distribution
Performance Points: 621




GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Wheels : Standard Size - Stock
Car Paint : Red or Black Matte



Tuning Parts Installed :
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Window Weight Reduction
Racing Brakes Kit



Suspension - Ferrari FXX Springs Custom Set
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 130
Spring Rate: 12.24 15.30
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 5 6 - OPTIONAL Rear Extension at 5 for better stability under braking/cornering
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 3.5 2.6
Toe Angle: 0.15 0.08



LSD
Initial Torque : 16
Acceleration Sensitivity: 27
Braking Sensitivity: 20



AERO
Front/Rear = 150 ( Fixed ) / 200 ( Fixed )

Brake Balance:
3/3 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/3, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/4 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

A simple replica build of Ferrari FXX, an evolution of Enzo, the FXX is track focused car with sole purpose of data acquisition employing rich people chosen as test drivers. The aim is to gather data and research for future Ferrari cars.

This build is custom but uses available data like weight of heaviest FXX, distribution uses data from FXX-K. Tire can be from CS to RH, the real car often fitted with slicks at the track, use either SM, SS or RH tire.

Tested at Midfield and Apricot Hill Reverse, the FXX able to lap 1:07s at Midfield and 1:19s at Apricot Hill Reverse, on RH tires. Replays are included.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Ferrari 458 Italia EU Lightweight Package Spec
550PP Special Handling Package Version for Racing Hard Tire

Special Build Ferrari 458 Italia Lightweight Spec 550PP
Racing Hard ​

CAR : Ferrari 458 Italia '09
Tire : Racing Hard - also works on Comfort Soft to Sports Soft

Specs EU Lightweight Package 550PP
Horsepower: 506 HP / 513 PS at 7900 RPM
Torque : 398.5 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 90.0%
Weight: 1406 kg
Ballast : 189 kg
Ballast Position : 7
Weight Distribution : 43 / 57
Performance Points: 550



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or standard size PDI P525 in Dark Gray
Car Paint : Vintage Red or Rosso Scuderia



Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction
Racing Brakes Kit - Highly Recommended - INSTALLED ( OPTIONAL )




Suspension - OEM Yellow Springs from F430 Scuderia Adapted
OEM 458 Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 112 112 ( 20mm Lowered For Track )
Spring Rate: 12.69 15.33
Dampers (Compression): 4 3
Dampers (Extension): 4 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 0.7 1.3
Toe Angle: -0.06 0.09


LSD - E Diff
Rear
Initial Torque : 28
Acceleration Sensitivity: 45 - Reduce by 1 each time until you find sweet spot if needed.
Braking Sensitivity: 45 - Reduce by 1 each time until you find sweet spot if needed.

Adjust both accel and braking at the same time if reducing the locking rate.



AERO
Fixed Front/Rear = 100/200



Brake Balance:
6/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 6/8 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

A simple build for Ferarri 458 Italia, based on light weight spec 458 Italia 2011 MY, with minimum options resulted in lightest possible weight for 458 Italia, tipping the scales at 1505kg with full fuel tank. This build is no fuel version ( calculated based on about 100L fuel tank of 458 Italia, including reserve )

The suspension is based on 430 Scud yellow springs ( lowest rate ) as I could not confirm the spring rate of stock 458 Italia, and I have been told that 430 Scud rate is not much different to the 458 Italia.

OEM alignment has been used and 2 ride height, stock road height at 132mm and 112mm lowered usually for the track or when the owner wanted more sleek look. The 112mm height should be base, as the weight spec it's based on has no lift kit.

Rear diff is 2 way in similar setup to the GT3 replica build, the 458 Italia E-Diff is capable of dynamically lock the rear wheels in both direction ( drive and coast ) The high lock and preload is to get close to the track/CST OFF E-Diff calibration, aggressive and more suited to high grip tires track use.

To get a full experience of the 458 performance, highly recommended to drive it online with tire wear/fuel consumption. This will give the 458 fuel tank that is simulated, the car will be heavier and drive much better.

The 458 Italia was tuned and tested at various tracks, Apricot Hill, Tsukuba, London, Red Bull Ring, SSR5, and Midfield.

The real life record for Tsukuba is 1:02.2s, this should be possible even when online with fuel consumption/tire wear.

Tested offline at Tsukuba, it was capable of 1:01.7s lap, London 57s, and Apricot Hill 1:30s

For more challenge, try to beat Horst Von Saurma record during Auto Motor Und Sport Supertest, online at Nurburgring Nordschleife with fuel consumption/tire wear, aim to beat 7:38s with CS tire. The weight simulated should be similar to the real car record at 1540kg full fuel tank as driven by Mr Von Saurma.

Replays for Tsukuba, London and Apricot Hill has been included.

This build is special 550PP based on the replica of 458 Lightweight spec, the notes has been quoted above for background information. This time, the only change I made is weight, employing more weight reduction parts, more ballast weight and slightly different position. Power has been reduced to fit into 550PP mark. Everything else is the same.

The 550PP version is specialized for racing hard tire, it has excellent balance and traction ability, while remaining predictable on the limit. The build also drives very nice on comfort soft to sports soft tires.

The motivation of this build was from someone I met online while I hosted track day room. He mentioned about a 458 Italia 550PP tune from here on GTP, saying it was great to drive, praising it to no end.

So, I got curious and tried the tune. I build the tune using tab A on the replica I made, I build to exact spec, including brake balance with racing brakes which was high as the tune was made on assist ( ABS and may have been TC as well from the way the car setup )

I specifically tested it at Apricot Hill Reverse, a great track that I have been using for awhile now for testing/tuning cars. I fitted sports tire as per tune, and drove it for several laps, immediately I noticed several issues, like low speed traction, sudden mid corner push, and unpredictable balance on the limit that often cause sudden front end tight/loose transition. I noticed the high ride height difference being compensated using ARB, with damper not being optimal, most likely being masked by the assist used and the ballast positioning working against the ride height exploit.

I tried my replica next to see if it works on sports tire, on tab C, fitted same sports tire, reduce the power to 550PP, made some changes to weight, used 112mm track height, drove it for several laps, and smiled Then I fitted racing hard tire to see how well the replica setup hold on high grip tire, and it did well.

If you find the car too tight under throttle and brake, reduce both accel and braking of LSD by 1 each time until you find a sweet spot. Do both together to maintain balance.

The 550PP 458 able to lap 1:22s at Apricot Hill Reverse on RH tire with ease. Don't be afraid to explore the car cornering ability, on 3rd gear corners, throttle often can be flat out without drama.

Standing start with the car is simple on RH tire, put it in 1st gear, rev to 5k to 6k RPM ( holding brakes ), release brake, launch hard and be ready to shift to 2nd quickly. It will launch like AWD car.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

AMUSE Carbon R

Tuned to replicate Amuse Carbon R
Comfort Soft to Sports Soft
OPTIONAL Racing Hard​

CAR : Amuse Carbon R (R34) '04
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Soft / OPTIONAL Racing Hard

Specs Actual Power based on 520PS at The Wheel
Horsepower: 576 HP / 584 PS at 7600 RPM
Torque : 419.9 ft-lb at 6000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.1%
Weight: 1123 kg
Ballast : 0 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 60 / 40
Performance Points: 553



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or Standard size RAYS GTS in Chrome Silver
Car Paint : Stock



Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD

Suspension - AMUSE SPL Kit with Bilstein Damper
Custom Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 80 80
Spring Rate: 12.00 8.00
Dampers (Compression): 3 6
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 3.5 2.0
Toe Angle: 0.15 0.24



LSD - ATS Carbon 2 Way ( HIGH )-BASE
Rear
Initial Torque : 8
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 36

LSD - ATS Carbon 2 Way ( MID )
Rear
Initial Torque : 8
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30

LSD - ATS Carbon 2 Way ( LOW )-Highly Recommended for Loose Handling
Rear
Initial Torque : 8
Acceleration Sensitivity: 25
Braking Sensitivity: 25



AERO
Front/Rear = 0 / 150 ( MAX )




Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

An old build of replica for Amuse Carbon R, built using data gathered, weight as claimed by Amuse, 1123kg, power 520PS ( most likely on wheel/chassis dyno, calculated power loss, I settled for 584PS engine power with matching torque calculated ), springs are 12k F / 8k R, with rear damper extension side on softer side ( simulated in replica ), 2 Way ATS Carbon LSD, 6 speed Cross Mission HKS for Z32 ( sequential helical gear dog box ), 4.1 Final, soft comp ADVAN A048 ( SS ). Alignment is custom, with brakes set at 5/6 BB to reflect real car having normal R34 brakes except for Endless CCR pads.

Actual car specs from OPTION Magazine :

ENGINE & DRIVE-TRAIN
RB26DETT Kai (520ps / 52.13kgm) N1 piston HKS Step 1 cam (IN264 degrees / EX256 degrees), GT-RS turbine × 2ARC custom intercooler, radiator, oil cooler original titanium suction pipe, front pipe, megaphone muffler HKS F-CON V Pro + Amuse Hitech ROM Blitz D-SBC 4WD system cancel → FR specification, HKS GD-MAX clutch ATS carbon LSD (2WAY) Final 4.1

SUSPENSION & BRAKE
Bilstein damper Amuse Spl (F12k R8k) Endless CC-R

WHEEL & TIRE
Rays GT-C (FR11H off + 2) YH ADVAN A048 (FR265 / 35-18)

EXTERIOR
Amuse Spl dry carbon body, version II GT wing acrylic window

INTERIOR
Recaro Pro Racer SP-A (driver's), SP-A (Navi) Takata MPH-340R full harness atc steering HKS circuit attack counter Defi link meter

Aero has been set at Max ( 150 ), ride height at max as well ( 80 ), while LSD has been set with 3 options, high, mid and low lock. Base LSD is high lock, but feel free to try mid and low, see which fits you better. Tire can be from Comfort Soft to Sports Soft, the replica also drives well on Racing Hard tires.

Lap reference is Tsukuba record at 57.267s, this can be achieved with SS tire/LSD High.
When tested at Tsukuba, it laps at 56s with Base LSD offline, online with tire wear/fuel should be more closer to real car on realistic pace. The Amuse Carbon R also tested on Racing Hard tire, at Midfield 1:09s on RH with Low LSD, replays for both included

 

[ALB123]

There is a Dino in AC, however, it's a really poor quality rip, in my opinion. Obviously, I would prefer an official Kunos Dino, but I would even take a Dino from a quality modder.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

There is a Dino in AC, however, it's a really poor quality rip, in my opinion. Obviously, I would prefer an official Kunos Dino, but I would even take a Dino from a quality modder.

Which games the Dino was rip from ?

I'm going to post some road cars soon, Elise S3 Club Racer with Power Pack and Mazda FD3S RX7 Efini ( 1st gen ), might be interesting to compare them to AC ?

I'm on last phase of testing RX7 LSD, it needs some polish overall balance, but I got as close as I can to real car Type 1 Torsen with 2.8 TBR ( torque bias ratio ), which is close to 48% lock . Hope the Assetto Corsa FD3S got torsen properly setup as well, GT6 one fits all LSD is kind of limiting

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I mean the specific car folder where suspension is It's a small .ini file if not mistaken.

Springs, I usually go by real life practice for the car, like aftermarket coilover rates, typical tuner spring choices etc or stock springs adapted to stiffer rate.

On MR cars with heavier rear, softer rear can be good as long as the car damper/ARB is set to work with it, example in real life : NA2 NSX Type R. In game I have built Oulim Motor Spirra tune, it also uses same method, softer rear as NSX, and it works wonderful

http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/difficult-car-spotlight-oullim-motors-spirra.306298/page-3

GT6 also seems to model each car motion ratio, so cars like Corvette, Viper, R33/R34 GTR, BMW 1M, BMW E92 M3, BMW M4 etc which has softer front springs, works in similar way in GT6. In real life, some cars have different suspension geometry that requires stiffer rate to maintain similar or close / balanced wheel rate to the other end / ride frequency. This often happens when say, FR car has front McPherson strut and rear multi link/double wishbone suspension, which causes the front to be much softer in spring rate, and rear could a lot higher. On the other hand, a FR car with all double wishbone suspension on both ends, may have higher rate front and lower rear to maintain balance.

The best way in GT6, try both possibility, higher rear/lower front and lower front/higher rear on a car you are working on, either one should work or if not, try same rate ( often works well - example, RX7 FD3S and Honda S20000 like in real life tuner spring rate which often use same rate, 16/16, 10/10 or slightly different either front/rear - 16/18 or 12/10, depending on tires/purpose - high speed track, touge, drift etc )

The Initial D AE86 uses TRD N2 kit spring rate used by Keiichi Tsuchiya on his personal AE86, 8kg/mm front and rear, his car evolved a lot, he used variety of spring rate depending on track ( Ebisu, Tsukuba etc ) he also used 9kg/mm front-8kg/mm rear. Stiff springs is not bad, you just have to tune the damper well to work with it. Most of my race cars uses almost max spring rate

Hey man, sorry for the late reply. I had exams then I was away on vacations. But I'm back now so I can get back to testing your tunes (hopefully, unless I get distracted again lol).

When you say tuning dampers and ARB to work with springs, my thumb rule is that stiff springs need stiff dampers and soft ARB. Soft springs the opposite. Is this correct?

I've tried your AE86 tune. It's too loose on power for my liking, even with the most conservative LSD damper settings. Maybe that's how the real car is though. I reverted back to my own tune because of this. Probably not a realistic tune, but it drives safer and faster. I'll post the numbers for you to look at if you're interested.

The R8 LMS with your tune is much better 👍 My main test track for this car is Silverstone GP. Turns 3 and 4 (the 2 hairpins) are the biggest problems. Right after the apex the car just wants to rotate no matter what you do. The outside rear tyre indicator usually turns red a split second before this happens, almost like that corner is overloaded or something (even if you're off throttle). With your tune this tendency is still there, but a lot more gradual and manageable. Until PD fixes MR physics in GTS I think this is the best we can expect for now.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Hey man, sorry for the late reply. I had exams then I was away on vacations. But I'm back now so I can get back to testing your tunes (hopefully, unless I get distracted again lol).

When you say tuning dampers and ARB to work with springs, my thumb rule is that stiff springs need stiff dampers and soft ARB. Soft springs the opposite. Is this correct?

I've tried your AE86 tune. It's too loose on power for my liking, even with the most conservative LSD damper settings. Maybe that's how the real car is though. I reverted back to my own tune because of this. Probably not a realistic tune, but it drives safer and faster. I'll post the numbers for you to look at if you're interested.

The R8 LMS with your tune is much better 👍 My main test track for this car is Silverstone GP. Turns 3 and 4 (the 2 hairpins) are the biggest problems. Right after the apex the car just wants to rotate no matter what you do. The outside rear tyre indicator usually turns red a split second before this happens, almost like that corner is overloaded or something (even if you're off throttle). With your tune this tendency is still there, but a lot more gradual and manageable. Until PD fixes MR physics in GTS I think this is the best we can expect for now.

Hope you had great vacation

For tuning, in GT6, don't get fixated on numbers for ARB and damper, those 1-10 damper and 1-7 ARB do not actually correlates accurately between soft to hard in definite way. The problem is many players think that 1 must be soft and 10 is hard, like between 1kg/mm spring soft to 20kg/mm spring hard.
The damper and ARB rates are hidden in GT6, just like in GT5. Each car has specific damper and ARB rates range, the tuning menu values are simplified for easier understanding for anyone who played the game.

When you do a step by step suspension tuning, after setting up springs, you will notice that often the front damper compression needs to be in certain value to reduce too much dive under braking, and on each different car, the value is different, some cars can make do with 1, some needs 8. The general idea still applies that 10 will be higher than 1 though, but often not by much, and as the actual rates is hidden, it could be 1 is 2000, while 10 is 2800 ( just example ) The damper extension is even trickier, the lower the number do not mean it actually lower than the compression, from what I experienced, even extension at 1, the rates is enough to control the compression force. If a real car has compression at 400 and extension at 8000, in game it won't translate roughly to 4 compression and 8 extension, the numbers are just representation of hidden rates.

What I'm trying to say, don't depend on the numbers, drive it and set it based on the car feedback and behavior. This is what bothers me , tuning suspension relied on test drive, go back and forth, changing numbers to see how the car react and work on that slowly.

For AE86, too loose as too much rotation ? The rear wants to rotate quicker than the front ?
Here is my suggestion :
Dampers (Compression): 3 5
Dampers (Extension): 4 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 1.5 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.00

LSD
Initial Torque : 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 16
Braking Sensitivity: 16

Increase rear ARB to 4, this will reduce rear roll rate when turning on lower speed corner, any higher than 4 may reduce grip. To compensate for the more eagerness to turn with ARB at 4, increase front extension to 4, this will lessen steering response, while still maintaining good traction at the rear wheels.

For the sharpness of the car reaction to throttle and how quick the rear slides, use the LSD with lower lock above, 10/16/16, this low initial/braking also helps with higher front extension at 4, allowing less push, while the lower accel lock gives much easier rear to manage on throttle.

If you feel the car still oversteer too much, the next way is moving ballast to dead center at 0 ( likely bring it to 57/43 distribution ), this should give more weighty car feel at the back, may need to increase rear compression to compensate for the added rear weight.



For the R8 LMS, the low speed steering is very responsive, try this :

Play with aero, lower front or increase rear Try by 10 or 25 step, 400/425 or 375/400 etc ( there's a reason I intentionally tuned in 400/400 aero, so the car will have playroom to adjustment when a driver needs less front or more rear aero grip ), I remembered 375/400 was decently balanced. Another great alternative is fitting mixed compound tire, SS front and RH rear. You may love SS/RH, it gives distinct handling balance.

Another alternative in addition of the aero adjustment, increase front extension by 1 to 3, this will lessen steering response a bit.

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 23.46 19.39
Dampers (Compression): 4 4
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.32 0.38

The LSD :
Initial 12
accel 60 - Optional 30
Braking 16

Aero
F/R : 400 / 400 or 375 / 400 or 400 / 425


Higher rear aero will reduce top speed, acceleration on higher speeds, push on high speed corners and may need more rear damper compression. Lowering front reduces high speed front grip, but has minimal effect on top speed.

Reducing LSD accel to 30 may also helps greatly
Hope those suggestion helps

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Hope you had great vacation

For tuning, in GT6, don't get fixated on numbers for ARB and damper, those 1-10 damper and 1-7 ARB do not actually correlates accurately between soft to hard in definite way. The problem is many players think that 1 must be soft and 10 is hard, like between 1kg/mm spring soft to 20kg/mm spring hard.
The damper and ARB rates are hidden in GT6, just like in GT5. Each car has specific damper and ARB rates range, the tuning menu values are simplified for easier understanding for anyone who played the game.

When you do a step by step suspension tuning, after setting up springs, you will notice that often the front damper compression needs to be in certain value to reduce too much dive under braking, and on each different car, the value is different, some cars can make do with 1, some needs 8. The general idea still applies that 10 will be higher than 1 though, but often not by much, and as the actual rates is hidden, it could be 1 is 2000, while 10 is 2800 ( just example ) The damper extension is even trickier, the lower the number do not mean it actually lower than the compression, from what I experienced, even extension at 1, the rates is enough to control the compression force. If a real car has compression at 400 and extension at 8000, in game it won't translate roughly to 4 compression and 8 extension, the numbers are just representation of hidden rates.

What I'm trying to say, don't depend on the numbers, drive it and set it based on the car feedback and behavior. This is what bothers me , tuning suspension relied on test drive, go back and forth, changing numbers to see how the car react and work on that slowly.

Man, that's so annoying. Leave it to PD to make something simple complicated. I guess there's just no way to guess damper and ARB values then. By your experience, would you say that optimal damper extension values are usually lower than compression in GT6?

Talking about real life though, would you agree that stiff springs go with stiff dampers and soft ARB?

For AE86, too loose as too much rotation ? The rear wants to rotate quicker than the front ?
Here is my suggestion :
Dampers (Compression): 3 5
Dampers (Extension): 4 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 1.5 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.00

LSD
Initial Torque : 10
Acceleration Sensitivity: 16
Braking Sensitivity: 16

Increase rear ARB to 4, this will reduce rear roll rate when turning on lower speed corner, any higher than 4 may reduce grip. To compensate for the more eagerness to turn with ARB at 4, increase front extension to 4, this will lessen steering response, while still maintaining good traction at the rear wheels.

For the sharpness of the car reaction to throttle and how quick the rear slides, use the LSD with lower lock above, 10/16/16, this low initial/braking also helps with higher front extension at 4, allowing less push, while the lower accel lock gives much easier rear to manage on throttle.

If you feel the car still oversteer too much, the next way is moving ballast to dead center at 0 ( likely bring it to 57/43 distribution ), this should give more weighty car feel at the back, may need to increase rear compression to compensate for the added rear weight.

I'll give those settings a try 👍 My main problem is putting the power down. Corner entry is completely fine so I'm a bit reluctant to change dampers. I think the LSD settings are key because your original values are quite high Safe to say I'm not as skilled as Dori-Dori

My settings (off the top of my head) uses zero camber, +0.15 rear toe, LSD 15/15/15. Also used tranny trick to get longer 1st and 2nd gear. And I added 10kg ballast at +50 to simulate carrying tofu, which has the added advantage of adding rear traction

For the R8 LMS, the low speed steering is very responsive, try this :

Play with aero, lower front or increase rear Try by 10 or 25 step, 400/425 or 375/400 etc ( there's a reason I intentionally tuned in 400/400 aero, so the car will have playroom to adjustment when a driver needs less front or more rear aero grip ), I remembered 375/400 was decently balanced. Another great alternative is fitting mixed compound tire, SS front and RH rear. You may love SS/RH, it gives distinct handling balance.

Another alternative in addition of the aero adjustment, increase front extension by 1 to 3, this will lessen steering response a bit.

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 23.46 19.39
Dampers (Compression): 4 4
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.32 0.38

The LSD :
Initial 12
accel 60 - Optional 30
Braking 16

Aero
F/R : 400 / 400 or 375 / 400 or 400 / 425


Higher rear aero will reduce top speed, acceleration on higher speeds, push on high speed corners and may need more rear damper compression. Lowering front reduces high speed front grip, but has minimal effect on top speed.

Reducing LSD accel to 30 may also helps greatly
Hope those suggestion helps

The problem is not the steering though, because the car is completely neutral at that stage. But the outside rear always seems to break traction. Almost as if the tyres bottom out against the fenders. I've tried stiffening the rear springs/dampers/ARB and they seem to help a little, but then it ruins handling in other corners.

Aero I used front 400, rear 850. Anything less on the rear is too twitchy.

Using staggered tyres cures the problem completely, but it feels like cheating lol. I suspect this is the only way to go with MR/RR cars though, because PD did not take into account that wider rear tyres gives more grip. Sigh...so many problems with GT6's physics.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Man, that's so annoying. Leave it to PD to make something simple complicated. I guess there's just no way to guess damper and ARB values then. By your experience, would you say that optimal damper extension values are usually lower than compression in GT6?

Talking about real life though, would you agree that stiff springs go with stiff dampers and soft ARB?



I'll give those settings a try 👍 My main problem is putting the power down. Corner entry is completely fine so I'm a bit reluctant to change dampers. I think the LSD settings are key because your original values are quite high Safe to say I'm not as skilled as Dori-Dori

My settings (off the top of my head) uses zero camber, +0.15 rear toe, LSD 15/15/15. Also used tranny trick to get longer 1st and 2nd gear. And I added 10kg ballast at +50 to simulate carrying tofu, which has the added advantage of adding rear traction



The problem is not the steering though, because the car is completely neutral at that stage. But the outside rear always seems to break traction. Almost as if the tyres bottom out against the fenders. I've tried stiffening the rear springs/dampers/ARB and they seem to help a little, but then it ruins handling in other corners.

Aero I used front 400, rear 850. Anything less on the rear is too twitchy.

Using staggered tyres cures the problem completely, but it feels like cheating lol. I suspect this is the only way to go with MR/RR cars though, because PD did not take into account that wider rear tyres gives more grip. Sigh...so many problems with GT6's physics.

For damper extension, I find that on FR and MR/RR cars, lower value is more than enough on rear axle, while the front, a higher value extension often can help control the weight transfer on throttle/rear traction while also make the steering less responsive, but too much can cause sudden oversteer/snappiness if the rear do not cooperate. If you are trying the Ferrari cars I posted on last page, try increase the extension at the rear only, and notice how much it's easier to rotate and eagerness to rotate under braking. Increase front extension only and try to take same corner as before, how the steering goes ? Try this at Apricot Hill Reverse, a great track to highlight handling balance.

Stiff springs usually used on high grip tires and to reduce roll/dynamic changes to suspension parts, sometimes roll bar can be reduced or omitted completely ( often FR cars can run with no rear roll bar with stiff enough spring ) Stiff dampers, this is really depend on a lot of factors, from what tires used, track surface, weight, downforce and driver preference. Most cars with stiff springs are likely due to the motion ratio, so the wheel rate is not as high, for cars with high frequency/wheel rate, damper compression are often on softer side control body movement, while the extension/rebound can be harder to keep the weight transfer optimal. Damper rate also really depends on the weight + downforce exerted when at speed, braking, accelerating and cornering.

I'm afraid is not as cut and dry as text book theory when it comes to damper tuning IRL, coilover kits with pretuned damper for specific application on a road car model usually enough, but when you have a custom build drag car or track car with extreme weight loss + sticky tires, a custom valved damper is necessity to match the springs.

For the AE86, I think the LSD have the largest impact, it sharpen the car and made it very lively

For the R8 LMS, the outside rear breaking traction is more due to the LSD accel at 60, try the 30 I suggested or go lower if you are curious, try 15 or 10.

My tune uses 400/400 aero, and it was not twitchy, how did you end up with rear at max 850 ? Would that make the car understeer at high speed, and may cause too much compression at the rear/bottoming out ? Aero in GT6 produces huge pressure downward, save a lap, load data logger and compare rear aerp 400 vs 850 ride height changes on rear axle.

IMO, the rear aero at 400 is more than enough, as any higher killing the car acceleration and top speed.

Staggered tire is not a cheat IMO, on a race with tire wear on, SS front and RH rear is fun + interesting to drive. The issue is PD giving the front tire too much grip on cars with staggered tire width, this happens on many MR and RR cars. There are other ways to keep the grip balance in check, from aero, to alignment, the R8 LMS tune have rear camber at 3.0, that was intentional, reduce that to 2.0 ( same as front ) or even lower at 1.0 and notice the difference.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Mazda FD3S Efini RX7 Type R '91

Tuned to replicate FD3S RX7 Efini
Comfort Hard to Comfort Soft​

​

CAR : Efini RX-7 Type R (FD) '91
Tire : Comfort Hard to Comfort Soft

Specs Road & Track Test
Horsepower: 252 HP / 255 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque : 216.9 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1293 kg
Ballast : 147 kg
Ballast Position : 17
Weight Distribution : 48 / 52
Performance Points: 432


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Rear Wing : NO WING - OPTIONAL
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Brilliant Black, Competition Yellow Mica, Montego Blue Mica, or Vintage Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 1


Suspension - Mazda OEM Springs Adapted

Front, Rear
Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 7.40 5.27
Dampers (Compression): 4 6
Dampers (Extension): 5 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 0.6 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.04 0.08



LSD - Mazda Torsen with 2.8 TBR
Rear
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 28
Braking Sensitivity: 12

​

Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/7, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

This replica is pretty old, but only recently I got a chance to finish it up.

The build is based on Road & Track test of Mazda RX7 in early 90's, the test also used in the game The Need For Speed, so the weight spec is the same as in that game, 1293kg with 48/52 distribution.

Spring rate of stock RX7 is not possible in GT6, so I adapted the value, with alignment using street oem spec from Mazda.

For LSD, the real Mazda FD3S all have have stock factory Mazda Torsen type LSD, early FD3S had type 1 Torsen then somewhere in 1994/1995, it changed to type 2 with better NVH.

The Torsen LSD has 2.8 TBR ( Torque Bias Ratio ) or roughly 47+% lock factor, reflected in LSD accel at 28. The real car torsen LSD has several disadvantages, like when one wheel is off the ground, it will act like open diff due to the nature of torque sensing design. In real life, the driver can induce locking action by applying brakes when one wheel lifted/in air. Another unique trait is that when side to side rear axle tires have differing pressure, example : rear tires left and right have pressure difference of more than 20%, the car will have some torque steer when driven as the torsen tried to compensate. This can easily be felt also when one rear tire having a puncture or flat tire. All these do not happen in GT6, but in other sim, it may be simulated or may be not.

The 1st gen 255PS FD3S lap record at Tsukuba is 1:07.89 ( likely on S tire of that era as another Bathurst RX7 clocked 1:08.9 ), this can be achieved on CS tire both offline and online, but requires very good clean driving ( the replica is a bit heavier as well than JDM spec FD3S RZ ) The RX7 also tested at Apricot Hill Reverse, clocking at 1:41s CS tire, which is pretty good for 252HP car. Both replays have been provided, enjoy.

The RX7 can be driven well on CH tire, which I think is the standard road tire fitted of that era.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Lotus Elise 1.6 S3 Club Racer

Tuned to replicate Elise 1.6 S3 CR Edition
Comfort Hard to Comfort Soft​

​

CAR : Lotus Elise '11
Tire : Comfort Hard to Comfort Soft

Specs No Driver Kerb Weight Club Racer
Horsepower: 139 HP / 141 PS at 7100 RPM
Torque : 121.4 ft-lb at 4600 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 776 kg
Ballast : 7 kg
Ballast Position : 29
Weight Distribution : 39 / 61
Performance Points: 417


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Rear Wing : Special Wing Type B or Type A ( Type B Installed )
Other : Part A
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Matte Black, GT Fluorescence 002-C


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Exhaust
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction


Suspension - Lotus S2 OEM Stock/Lotus Sport Suspension Spring Adapted

Front, Rear
Ride Height: 130 130
Spring Rate: 4.85 6.91
Dampers (Compression): 3 4
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2
Camber Angle: 0.1 1.8
Toe Angle: -0.02 0.18


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Optional 6 Speed Close Ratio Toyota C64
Used on 1.8 ZZ-GE Toyota Engined Elise
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Final 4.529
Use default Auto Max Speed at 240kmh / 150mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.166
2nd 2.050
3rd 1.481
4th 1.166
5th 0.916
6th 0.815
Set Final : 4.529


USE STOCK OPEN DIFF ( Standard Fitment for 1.6 Elise ) OR
Alternate LSD for Base Elise Without Torsen LSD
LSD - Open Diff
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

OR

LSD - Torsen ( OPTIONAL ) - Highly Recommended
Rear
Initial Torque : 7
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 15

Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

Replica of series 3 Lotus Elise 1.6 Club Racer Edition, weight spec is calculated based on kerb weight minus 75kg driver. Elise CR with Power Pack ( sports exhaust ), power bumped to just over 140PS.

Suspension uses Series 2 stock spring adapted as the actual rate not possible ( too low ), while optional gear ratio from 1.8 Elise 6 speed is included, stock gearbox is accurate but much slower than the C64 box.

LSD is open in the real car ( standard fitment 1.6 Elise ), use stock LSD ( leave as is ), or fit custom LSD with open diff setup ( 5/5/5 ) or the Torsen type based on S1 Elise GT6 stock LSD.

The Elise S3 is low powered but very fun to drive, well balanced and plenty of grip even on CH tires. Tested at London, Midfield, Apricot Hill Reverse, Rome and SSR5. On CM tire, C64 gear box and Torsen LSD, the Elise posted 1:28s at Rome and 1:45s at Apricot Hill Reverse. Replays included.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Amuse 350Z LightWeight Spec
HOT VERSION FR CHALLENGE WINNER vs AMUSE S2000 Orange Touge Monster
EBISU EAST Course

Tuned to replicate Amuse Z33 Lightweight

Comfort Soft to Sports Medium​

CAR : Gran Turismo 350Z RS
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium

Specs 308PS at the wheel
Horsepower: 345 HP / 350 PS at 6900 RPM
Torque: 270.8 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 91.8%
Weight: 1330 kg
Ballast : 137 kg
Ballast Position : -36
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44
Performance Points: 487


Specs 308PS
Horsepower: 304 HP / 308 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque: 270.8 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 81.1%
Weight: 1330 kg
Ballast : 137 kg
Ballast Position : -36
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44
Performance Points: 473

GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity - INSTALLED
Wheels : Standard Size - RAYS CE28N in Silver
Car Paint : Sonic Silver (M)



Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Exhaust
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Carbon Driveshaft
Weigh Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction


Suspension - AMUSE SPL Z33 High Tech Damper Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 100
Spring Rate: 14.00 11.00
Dampers (Compression): 4 5
Dampers (Extension): 4 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.7
Toe Angle: -0.10 0.00



LSD - CUSCO RS
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 10



AERO
Front / Rear : 50 ( Fixed ) / 50 ( Min )

Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :
Special replica build of Amuse 350Z Z33 Lightweight spec, featured in Hot Version video FR Challenge Battle at Ebisu East. The Amuse Z33 was raced against the Touge Champion "Maou", the Amuse S2000 Orange Touge Monster, a 260PS, 1140kg lightweight S2000 built by Amuse, another car is Esprit Z33.
Keiichi Tsuchiya drove the Amuse Z33, Manabu "MAX" Orido drove the Amuse S2000 Maou, and Nobuteru Taniguchi drove the Esprit Z33. The Amuse Z33 won the battle convincingly, leaving the AMuse S2000 and Esprit Z33 in the dust. Although the light 260PS S2000 excels in braking and corner entry, the cornering speeds are comparable to the Amuse Z33, and Amuze Z33 also have torque advantage on the up hill Ebisu track, superior corner exit made it a winner.
The Amuse 350Z Z33 weighs 1330kg, with 308PS power ( most likely at the wheel figure ), so I included both possibility, 350PS engine power based on 308PS wheel figure calculation ( 12% loss ), and 308PS as is.
The Z33 uses Amuse own Hi Tech Damper/Spring, rate at 14kg/mm front and 11kg/mm rear, CUSCO RS LSD, and multitude of dry carbon fibre parts for hood and doors, cutting weight more than 100kg.

Power tune up includes : ECU, Amuse Hi Tech ROM; Camshaft, Amuse R1-VTC; Front Pipe, Amuse R1000; Exhaust, Amuse Extra Titan
Tires : ADVAN NEOVA A048 ( Medium ).

I used Gran Turismo 350Z RS as base as the car is tuned by Amuse/Opera Performance and the closest match to the real Amuse 350Z, in terms of visual appearance and mechanical spec.

The car is well balanced with plenty of grip even around tight twisty tracks.

Tested at various tracks, at Matterhorn Short it did 27s and 1:21s at Rome, both on CS tire and 350PS spec. Replays included.

 

[GT6champNK_69]

Oh man, there is a AMUSE Z33 Light-Weight replica tune in your garage now.
I had to try it admittedly, and I was all big smiling, yet surprised how well balanced the car felt, great suspension settings, and the CUSCO LSD do great things for it as well. Great work RIDOX. I am yet to try your replica tunes; Lotus Elise 1.6 S3 Club Racer / Mazda FD3S Efini RX7 Type R '91 / Takumi AE86, I will try them next time I play GT6.👍

I am very hyped about your Amuse Carbon R replica tune, it's simply a treat, thanks for making this, and your Ferrari FXX replica, 'Wow', very unique I find it.
It is great to follow your work.

As regarding your latest post, your AMUSE Z33 Light-Weight replica (Amuse/Opera Performance GRAN TURISMO 350Z RS), was raced on the EBISU Circuit, the (East 'Higashi' Course), I have made a very close version using the 'Track Path Editor', it has nearly the same elevation changes as the real one, of course with limitations but very very close. I highly recommend you to try it out yourself RIDOX, especially for this replica tune of yours. And please read my description of my track. Here is the link below;
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/resources/ebisu-circuit-higashi.4548/

Cheers mate.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

For damper extension, I find that on FR and MR/RR cars, lower value is more than enough on rear axle, while the front, a higher value extension often can help control the weight transfer on throttle/rear traction while also make the steering less responsive, but too much can cause sudden oversteer/snappiness if the rear do not cooperate. If you are trying the Ferrari cars I posted on last page, try increase the extension at the rear only, and notice how much it's easier to rotate and eagerness to rotate under braking. Increase front extension only and try to take same corner as before, how the steering goes ? Try this at Apricot Hill Reverse, a great track to highlight handling balance.

Stiff springs usually used on high grip tires and to reduce roll/dynamic changes to suspension parts, sometimes roll bar can be reduced or omitted completely ( often FR cars can run with no rear roll bar with stiff enough spring ) Stiff dampers, this is really depend on a lot of factors, from what tires used, track surface, weight, downforce and driver preference. Most cars with stiff springs are likely due to the motion ratio, so the wheel rate is not as high, for cars with high frequency/wheel rate, damper compression are often on softer side control body movement, while the extension/rebound can be harder to keep the weight transfer optimal. Damper rate also really depends on the weight + downforce exerted when at speed, braking, accelerating and cornering.

I'm afraid is not as cut and dry as text book theory when it comes to damper tuning IRL, coilover kits with pretuned damper for specific application on a road car model usually enough, but when you have a custom build drag car or track car with extreme weight loss + sticky tires, a custom valved damper is necessity to match the springs.

Got it, thanks. So pretty much springs/damber/ARB are not clear cut and you just have to trial and error Especially with GT's unit-less numbers.

Final discussion: do you have any thumb rules on tuning for rain, rally and drifting?

For rain, I usually just soften the springs, damper and ARB. LSD set higher for Decel, and lower for Accel. Lengthen gears and add max downforce. Of course you also fit rain tyres.

For rally, I raise ride height to max, soften springs/dampers/ARB to minimum. Camber and toe to zero (to make braking distance as short as possible). LSD open front, locked rear (for easy drifting).

For drifting, I use mid way ride height, soft springs/dampers and stiff ARB. Camber zero. Front slight negative toe and rear slight positive toe. LSD full locked and downforce minimum (if any).

For the AE86, I think the LSD have the largest impact, it sharpen the car and made it very lively

For the R8 LMS, the outside rear breaking traction is more due to the LSD accel at 60, try the 30 I suggested or go lower if you are curious, try 15 or 10.

My tune uses 400/400 aero, and it was not twitchy, how did you end up with rear at max 850 ? Would that make the car understeer at high speed, and may cause too much compression at the rear/bottoming out ? Aero in GT6 produces huge pressure downward, save a lap, load data logger and compare rear aerp 400 vs 850 ride height changes on rear axle.

IMO, the rear aero at 400 is more than enough, as any higher killing the car acceleration and top speed.

Staggered tire is not a cheat IMO, on a race with tire wear on, SS front and RH rear is fun + interesting to drive. The issue is PD giving the front tire too much grip on cars with staggered tire width, this happens on many MR and RR cars. There are other ways to keep the grip balance in check, from aero, to alignment, the R8 LMS tune have rear camber at 3.0, that was intentional, reduce that to 2.0 ( same as front ) or even lower at 1.0 and notice the difference.

The AE86 revision tune you posted above cures the problem 👍 The breakaway is a lot more gradual now and the rear is a lot more planted. I think lowering the LSD settings is key. I also moved the weight backwards a bit (10kg at +50 position).

The R8 LMS, your revision tune is also a lot better. I give up using RH/RH and went for SS/RH instead. With staggered tyres the downforce, camber and LSD values make sense. I also tested RH/RM which instantly makes me 3 seconds faster around Silverstone GP at 1.52.xxx Final settings use downforce 400/400, camber 2.0 2.0 (works better than 2.0 3.0 for RH/RM) and LSD 12/15/16. This is with full power (900+ HP with High RPM Turbo) so you could probably raise the LSD if you're using stock power. I give it my seal of approval 👍 The hardest car to tame is now mastered

I've also tested quite a lot of your cars. A couple of highlights for me: Stratos (page 13), Italia (page 16), Cizeta (page 27), F40 (page 35), MP4-12C (page 36), Blackbird (page 39), NSX GT2 (page 48), Countach (page 80, 84, 85), AZ1 (page 101), LFA (page 103, 107), Speed 12 (page 112), Veyron (page 115), Evo FQ400 (page 125), Senna F3 (page 134), Miura SV (page 138), Enzo (page 140), BTR Blackbird (page 141), Ram (page 142), GTR LM Nismo (page 148), Amuse (page 150).

I also tested a lot of those cars with full power and up to Sports Soft tyres. Just needs to increase damper by 1 click all around and lower LSD Accel and for most of them they are already very good 👍 Just shows how well sorted out your base tunes are.

Well that's it from me. Thanks for bearing with my questions over the last few pages. It has been very educational and enlightening. I'll stick around and comment if I see a tune that's interesting. Otherwise I hope to see you soon in Assetto Corsa and GT Sport

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Oh man, there is a AMUSE Z33 Light-Weight replica tune in your garage now.
I had to try it admittedly, and I was all big smiling, yet surprised how well balanced the car felt, great suspension settings, and the CUSCO LSD do great things for it as well. Great work RIDOX. I am yet to try your replica tunes; Lotus Elise 1.6 S3 Club Racer / Mazda FD3S Efini RX7 Type R '91 / Takumi AE86, I will try them next time I play GT6.👍

I am very hyped about your Amuse Carbon R replica tune, it's simply a treat, thanks for making this, and your Ferrari FXX replica, 'Wow', very unique I find it.
It is great to follow your work.

As regarding your latest post, your AMUSE Z33 Light-Weight replica (Amuse/Opera Performance GRAN TURISMO 350Z RS), was raced on the EBISU Circuit, the (East 'Higashi' Course), I have made a very close version using the 'Track Path Editor', it has nearly the same elevation changes as the real one, of course with limitations but very very close. I highly recommend you to try it out yourself RIDOX, especially for this replica tune of yours. And please read my description of my track. Here is the link below;
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/resources/ebisu-circuit-higashi.4548/

Cheers mate.

Thank you for driving my work I tried to download the track, everytime I login to the GT6 community page, it gave me authorization error Will try again later.

Got it, thanks. So pretty much springs/damber/ARB are not clear cut and you just have to trial and error Especially with GT's unit-less numbers.

Final discussion: do you have any thumb rules on tuning for rain, rally and drifting?

For rain, I usually just soften the springs, damper and ARB. LSD set higher for Decel, and lower for Accel. Lengthen gears and add max downforce. Of course you also fit rain tyres.

For rally, I raise ride height to max, soften springs/dampers/ARB to minimum. Camber and toe to zero (to make braking distance as short as possible). LSD open front, locked rear (for easy drifting).

For drifting, I use mid way ride height, soft springs/dampers and stiff ARB. Camber zero. Front slight negative toe and rear slight positive toe. LSD full locked and downforce minimum (if any).



The AE86 revision tune you posted above cures the problem 👍 The breakaway is a lot more gradual now and the rear is a lot more planted. I think lowering the LSD settings is key. I also moved the weight backwards a bit (10kg at +50 position).

The R8 LMS, your revision tune is also a lot better. I give up using RH/RH and went for SS/RH instead. With staggered tyres the downforce, camber and LSD values make sense. I also tested RH/RM which instantly makes me 3 seconds faster around Silverstone GP at 1.52.xxx Final settings use downforce 400/400, camber 2.0 2.0 (works better than 2.0 3.0 for RH/RM) and LSD 12/15/16. This is with full power (900+ HP with High RPM Turbo) so you could probably raise the LSD if you're using stock power. I give it my seal of approval 👍 The hardest car to tame is now mastered

I've also tested quite a lot of your cars. A couple of highlights for me: Stratos (page 13), Italia (page 16), Cizeta (page 27), F40 (page 35), MP4-12C (page 36), Blackbird (page 39), NSX GT2 (page 48), Countach (page 80, 84, 85), AZ1 (page 101), LFA (page 103, 107), Speed 12 (page 112), Veyron (page 115), Evo FQ400 (page 125), Senna F3 (page 134), Miura SV (page 138), Enzo (page 140), BTR Blackbird (page 141), Ram (page 142), GTR LM Nismo (page 148), Amuse (page 150).

I also tested a lot of those cars with full power and up to Sports Soft tyres. Just needs to increase damper by 1 click all around and lower LSD Accel and for most of them they are already very good 👍 Just shows how well sorted out your base tunes are.

Well that's it from me. Thanks for bearing with my questions over the last few pages. It has been very educational and enlightening. I'll stick around and comment if I see a tune that's interesting. Otherwise I hope to see you soon in Assetto Corsa and GT Sport

For your questions :

For rain, I usually just soften the springs, damper and ARB. LSD set higher for Decel, and lower for Accel. Lengthen gears and add max downforce. Of course you also fit rain tyres.
With rain, LSD accel can be lower, often I upped the initial a bit to stabilize the car instead adding decel. If the original springs is not too stiff, I only reduce the ARB on the axle that needs more grip, damper is last to tweak

For rally, I raise ride height to max, soften springs/dampers/ARB to minimum. Camber and toe to zero (to make braking distance as short as possible). LSD open front, locked rear (for easy drifting).
Rally, I raise the car, soft springs, stiff damper on rear extension, hard front compression if needed for jumps, higher rear ARB if necessary. Camber and toe can be tweaked for rotation. with AWD cars, front usually have some lock accel but low initial on LSD, rear usually high on accel/initial

For drifting, I use mid way ride height, soft springs/dampers and stiff ARB. Camber zero. Front slight negative toe and rear slight positive toe. LSD full locked and downforce minimum (if any).
Drifting, ride height can be low, but not too low, I usually set the suspension like I would for track day car, aiming for balanced handling. Low rear camber, more front camber, toe out front and zero toe rear if possible. LSD can be max but I tend to use track car LSD, unless I want to replicate cars with spool

Glad to hear the AE86 and R8 LMS are doing fine after your changes 👍 Often these cars needs personalized setup to work well, each driver has distinct style of driving

May I suggest to try the last few cars as well if you have time The Ferrari 458 Italia Challenge, Amuse Z33, Lotus Elise S3 are nice to drive, I also updated the Aventador SV again with Assetto Corsa Red Bull Ring real time ride height + alignment readings.

Lamborghini Aventador LP 750-4 '16 Super Veloce Replica
Build based on LP700-4 '12 Car & Driver + Auto Motor Und Sport
MotorTrend 2012 Best Drivers Car Randy Pobst
Laguna Seca, Fuji Speedway and Nurburging GP/D Lap Record
Tuned to replicate Aventador LP750-4 SV 2016
Comfort Soft​

View attachment 323438​

CAR : Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 '11
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs Car & Driver 2012 No Fuel
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1671 kg
Ballast : 96 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 42.5 / 57.5
Performance Points: 590

Specs Auto Motor Und Sport 2012 No Fuel
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1671 kg
Ballast : 96 kg
Ballast Position : 7
Weight Distribution : 42.9 / 57.1
Performance Points: 590

Specs MotorTrend 2012 Euro Spec 45/55 No Fuel based on Online Spec
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1682 kg
Ballast : 107 kg
Ballast Position : -14
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 - close to 44/56 as shown at the MotorTrend site.
Performance Points: 589

Specs MotorTrend 2012 Euro Spec 42/58 No Fuel Based on Video
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1682 kg
Ballast : 107 kg
Ballast Position : 24
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 - as shown on MotorTrend Video
Performance Points: 589

View attachment 323442​

GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT installed in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Rear Wing
Wing Mount Standard Type D
Wing Small Type H
Winglets Small Type J
Height : -6
Width : +4
Other : Part B
Wheels : Standard Size BBS RE-MG in Black or Oz Racing Italia 150 in Black
Car Paint : GT6 Polarized 044 or Super Red V ( Red SV ), African Violet, Sunrise Yellow ( Yellow SV ), Cyberia Blue or White or Grigio Estoque


Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit ( OPTIONAL - Lamborghini Official Spec - Dry Double Plate Clutch )
Full Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Torque Distributing Center Differential - OPTIONAL FOR DRIVE MODE.


Suspension OHLINS Push Rod Actuated Coil Springs + Damper ( STRADA/SPORT )
Base Ride Height for Track ( used on MotorTrend Lap )
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 104 104 ( Adjustable range 4.1"-5.7" = 104.1mm to 144.8mm )
Spring Rate: 8.04 11.09
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 0.8 1.3 ( Optional : 2.0 2.0 )
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.10 ( Optional : 0.00 0.00 )

ALTERNATIVE Ride Height and Alignment using Assetto Corsa Aventador SV Setup
Real Time Values at Red Bull Ring-Highest Values Used
Ride Height : 104 111
Camber Angle: 1.3 2.0 ( Lowest value 0.75 1.7 )
Toe Angle: 0.22 0.15 ( Lowest value 0.21 0.14 )

View attachment 323440​

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - ISR ( Independent Shifting Rod ) 7 Speed with 1.24 Transfer Gear Ratio
Corrected Final Drive Ratio

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 380kmh /236mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.909
2nd 2.438
3rd 1.810
4th 1.458
5th 1.185
6th 0.967
7th 0.844
Set Final 3.559 - Corrected Final drive based on Car & Driver Test 2.87 Final + Transfer Gear Ratio


LSD 2 way rear ( low preload )
FRONT
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR
Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


LSD 2 way rear ( medium preload )
FRONT
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR
Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


AERO
Front : 50 ( fixed )
Rear : 120 ( Max )



LAMBORGHINI DRIVE MODE-OPTIONAL SUITE( STRADA/SPORT/CORSA )

Torque Distributing Center Differential + Damper + ESP using GT6 TC+ABS

STRADA :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Torque Split F/R : Stock or 20:80
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 8 / ABS 10

SPORT :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Torque Split F/R : 10:90
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 4 / ABS 6

CORSA :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 5 5
Torque Split F/R : 40:60
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 3 / ABS 3

View attachment 323439​

Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


The LP750-4 SV replica build is based on LP700-4 replica previously released, the quoted post above are the replica notes for the LP700-4 of which this replica is based upon, please read the notes above for better explanation on the various aspect of the car. This replica has only some minor changes, mainly on slight power and weight change and different camber/toe alignment ( used on the Murcielago LP670-4 SV )

The LP 750-4 SV in real life has 750CV or 740HP @8400 RPM, same torque number and RPM. Weight has been reduced slightly by 50kg.

To get the specs, I used oil change and intake tuning to maintain rev limit at 8500 RPM as in the real car. The downside is the torque rise higher than real life car, but it will have to make do. For weight, I simply used the LP700-4 replica weight specs and reduce them by 50kg, ballast position has been corrected to reflect the distribution. Lamborghini official specs states 43/57 distribution, similar to Car & Driver + Auto Motor Und Sport weight specs.

For appearance, I used whatever GT6 have to get as close as possible to the real car exterior. The rear wing width has been set to same width as the real SV, height also the same. The door mirror has been chosen in black, similar to the real car. 2 wheel set has been provided to suit your taste, while the paint color are free, but I included the colors that are closest to the media release SV ( red and yellow )

I tested the car at Tsukuba and Midfield. At Tsukuba on CS tire, MotorTrend spec ( 1682kg, 42/58 ) is easily lap in 1:00.2xx, close to 1 minute flat . At Midfield, on same spec, CS tire, able to lap in 1:16s with room to improve. Close to 1 second quicker than Murcielago LP670-4 SV replica.

The replay at Midfield has been provided for viewing.

For more predictable handling the Auto Motor Und Sport and MotorTrend 45/55 specs are easier to drive, and the medium preload LSD also helped to stabilize the car. The added torque at over 561 lb ft increases the tendency to spin the rear wheels on CS tire. You may need to reduce throttle at some stage of cornering, where LP700-4 could do flat out.

UPDATE June 2016 :

Added Lamborghini Drive Mode Suite, STRADA, SPORT, CORSA, complete with optional ESP mode simulated using GT6 Traction Control/TC and ABS. Torque Distributing Center Differential added to provide custom torque split, STRADA can use stock or 20 front/80 rear, SPORT is 10 front/90 rear and CORSA 40 front/60 rear. The real car HALDEX IV can provide up to 60% front torque, while under normal condition has 80% rear torque. CORSA specific damper has been added as well to provide better handling balance with 40/60 torque split.

With STRADA, the stock torque center diff drives very similar to custom 20/80, except for the dynamic nature of stock center diff. The TC and ABS are highly recommended if wanted more authentic performance with ESP enabled ( always enabled by default in real car ), though in GT6, both are still crude in operation, but have to make do with what's available.

I tested the SPORT and CORSA mode at Apricot Hill Reverse, with SPORT, the car lapped in 1:30.6s while on CORSA, 1:30.022 ( CORSA damper ), the setup used is 1682kg / 42:58 distribution ( MotorTrend ), Medium Preload LSD, CS tire and no ESP ( no TC and ABS ). Replay for both has been included.

UPDATE July 2016 :

ADDED Assetto Corsa Aventador SV real time setup for ride height and alignment at Red Bull Ring ( in PIT )
Tested Assetto Corsa ride height and alignment using CORSA Drive Mode ( 40:60 ) + DAMPER without ESP, able to lap less than 1:40s at Red Bull Ring on CS tire ( should be comparable to AC Hypercar Tire )

Using CORSA mode without ESP and base replica setup, the SV on CS capable of 1:37s lap at Red Bull Ring, beating the Gallardo replica.

View attachment 323441​

The Aventador SV received another update, please read the notes for further details, now the SV has complete Drive mode ( Torque Split ) + ESP Mode ( GT6 assist ), plus added alternative Assetto Corsa real time ride eight + alignment at Red Bull Ring.

Tested the base setup suspension + Corsa Mode Damper/Torque Split without ESP at Red Bull Ring using 1682kg weight on CS tire, capable of 1:37s. With Assetto Corsa ride height+alignment + Corsa Mode ( Damper+Torque Split ) + no ESP, the Aventador on CS tire at Red Bull Ring should be capable of less than 1:40s.

Anyone interested can try compare the GT6 Ridox SV vs Assetto Corsa SV at Red Bull Ring. Not sure if AC Aventador uses Corsa or Sport mode in the game ( use Hypercar tire ), but for GT6, use either Sport or Corsa Mode ( Damper+Torque Split ) with AC ride height/alignment, ESP mode optional, CS tire, 1682kg weight spec and see how both cars differs at Red Bull Ring.

Enjoy, I will be posting another car soon

 

[LeGeNd-1]

For your questions :

For rain, I usually just soften the springs, damper and ARB. LSD set higher for Decel, and lower for Accel. Lengthen gears and add max downforce. Of course you also fit rain tyres.
With rain, LSD accel can be lower, often I upped the initial a bit to stabilize the car instead adding decel. If the original springs is not too stiff, I only reduce the ARB on the axle that needs more grip, damper is last to tweak

For rally, I raise ride height to max, soften springs/dampers/ARB to minimum. Camber and toe to zero (to make braking distance as short as possible). LSD open front, locked rear (for easy drifting).
Rally, I raise the car, soft springs, stiff damper on rear extension, hard front compression if needed for jumps, higher rear ARB if necessary. Camber and toe can be tweaked for rotation. with AWD cars, front usually have some lock accel but low initial on LSD, rear usually high on accel/initial

For drifting, I use mid way ride height, soft springs/dampers and stiff ARB. Camber zero. Front slight negative toe and rear slight positive toe. LSD full locked and downforce minimum (if any).
Drifting, ride height can be low, but not too low, I usually set the suspension like I would for track day car, aiming for balanced handling. Low rear camber, more front camber, toe out front and zero toe rear if possible. LSD can be max but I tend to use track car LSD, unless I want to replicate cars with spool

Cheers, thanks for those quick run down 👍 Good to see most of my methods align with yours.

With rally is there a reason for stiff damper extension? I thought soft is better so the wheels can return to the road better after jumps.

For drift, I know in real life you use high front camber and low rear camber, but seeing camber is broken in GT6 does this tuning still work as well? Usually I just set 0 0 and balance the car using other means.

May I suggest to try the last few cars as well if you have time The Ferrari 458 Italia Challenge, Amuse Z33, Lotus Elise S3 are nice to drive, I also updated the Aventador SV again with Assetto Corsa Red Bull Ring real time ride height + alignment readings.

Yes, don't worry, I'm still planning to test more cars in the near future I'm just going through the ones I find interesting and/or hard to tune first. I'm gonna take a break from GT6 for a bit and try the latest AC DLC first though

For a future project, can I recommend the Formula cars? Lotus 97T, Formula GT and Red Bull Standard for example. Would be interesting to see how you approach them. Might be hard to drive it accurately with a pad though.

If you're feeling adventurous, maybe the Red Bull X or Tomahawks

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Cheers, thanks for those quick run down 👍 Good to see most of my methods align with yours.

With rally is there a reason for stiff damper extension? I thought soft is better so the wheels can return to the road better after jumps.

For drift, I know in real life you use high front camber and low rear camber, but seeing camber is broken in GT6 does this tuning still work as well? Usually I just set 0 0 and balance the car using other means.



Yes, don't worry, I'm still planning to test more cars in the near future I'm just going through the ones I find interesting and/or hard to tune first. I'm gonna take a break from GT6 for a bit and try the latest AC DLC first though

For a future project, can I recommend the Formula cars? Lotus 97T, Formula GT and Red Bull Standard for example. Would be interesting to see how you approach them. Might be hard to drive it accurately with a pad though.

If you're feeling adventurous, maybe the Red Bull X or Tomahawks

With rally, higher rear damper extension helps a lot with braking and getting the car to rotate faster

Camber, here is a kicker, real life camber setup often brings the car performance closer to real life in GT6, so far I have used many real life alignment on my cars, and none of them having trouble of being slower or having less grip than it should.

I don't have the formula cars yet, my garage already filled and been using stockyard for some time I may buy the 97T, though it will be handful on 10 years old DS2 stick I have Red Bull Standard, it was fun car, may drive it again soon.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

With rally, higher rear damper extension helps a lot with braking and getting the car to rotate faster

Camber, here is a kicker, real life camber setup often brings the car performance closer to real life in GT6, so far I have used many real life alignment on my cars, and none of them having trouble of being slower or having less grip than it should.

I don't have the formula cars yet, my garage already filled and been using stockyard for some time I may buy the 97T, though it will be handful on 10 years old DS2 stick I have Red Bull Standard, it was fun car, may drive it again soon.

Oh right, no wonder I always have trouble rotating the car on corner entry. I always keep the extension low to cope with jumps (that hill on Toscana near the end and the washboard section on Eiger W always bounces the car like crazy).

The camber issue, I'm guessing it makes the cars laptimes more realistic because the stock cars in GT are faster than real life. My concern is since zero camber gives max grip in GT, using high front and low rear will make the car understeer more, which is opposite of what you want for drifting.

Haha yeah the garage limit is so annoying in GT6. I have 490 cars in my normal garage, and another 400 in my stockyard Because of how slow the stockyard is I just end up never driving any of the cars I sent there

 

[GT6champNK_69]

I don't know why this happens, I have loged in to PSN throught the Track Path Editor, might work now. I assume you are logged in to PSN as well. Please let me know when you succeed downloading it
I'll start up my PS3 and play GT6 if that'll do the job

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Oh right, no wonder I always have trouble rotating the car on corner entry. I always keep the extension low to cope with jumps (that hill on Toscana near the end and the washboard section on Eiger W always bounces the car like crazy).

The camber issue, I'm guessing it makes the cars laptimes more realistic because the stock cars in GT are faster than real life. My concern is since zero camber gives max grip in GT, using high front and low rear will make the car understeer more, which is opposite of what you want for drifting.

Haha yeah the garage limit is so annoying in GT6. I have 490 cars in my normal garage, and another 400 in my stockyard Because of how slow the stockyard is I just end up never driving any of the cars I sent there

It's not that stock cars are faster, but the lateral grip changes + braking distance are much more realistic with camber used High front camber push can be easily cured with good damper and ARB, front/rear toe also very important, as it has very large impact on cornering balance. I have been using front toe in with large front camber on race cars and it works great

Trivia : The real R32 GTR Group A uses large front toe in with large front camber

In GT6, large front toe in when combined with large front camber gives sharper steering response at expense of some mid corner push ( depends on the aero, ARB and damper as well ) Front toe out with large front camber makes a smoother steering, but too much will also have an impact on mid corner balance.

I don't know why this happens, I have loged in to PSN throught the Track Path Editor, might work now. I assume you are logged in to PSN as well. Please let me know when you succeed downloading it
I'll start up my PS3 and play GT6 if that'll do the job

I think it's just my Firefox acting up, not from your side I still can't log in to community page, will try again later after I rebooted my laptop

 

[LeGeNd-1]

It's not that stock cars are faster, but the lateral grip changes + braking distance are much more realistic with camber used High front camber push can be easily cured with good damper and ARB, front/rear toe also very important, as it has very large impact on cornering balance. I have been using front toe in with large front camber on race cars and it works great

Trivia : The real R32 GTR Group A uses large front toe in with large front camber

In GT6, large front toe in when combined with large front camber gives sharper steering response at expense of some mid corner push ( depends on the aero, ARB and damper as well ) Front toe out with large front camber makes a smoother steering, but too much will also have an impact on mid corner balance.

I can sort of understand what you mean, but the fact remains that zero camber is still the fastest way no? I see a couple times in your tunes as well (use zero camber for max grip). When in real life using zero camber will not provide more grip when cornering. My worry is will this impact they way we set up drift cars? I have used real life method (high front, low rear) and zero-zero and 0-0 feels better for drifting for me.

I noticed that you've been using a lot of positive front toe in your recent tunes as well. I noticed the sharper response with positive front toe, but usually it is outweighed by the mid corner push. Never thought of combining it with large camber though.

I've also read that using high negative camber will make the wheel want to pivot inwards (positive toe), so you have to use some negative toe to counteract this. I believe the term is called camber thrust.

Man, tuning is so complicated. Just when I thought I mastered it, there's always new combinations and tricks to discover

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I can sort of understand what you mean, but the fact remains that zero camber is still the fastest way no? I see a couple times in your tunes as well (use zero camber for max grip). When in real life using zero camber will not provide more grip when cornering. My worry is will this impact they way we set up drift cars? I have used real life method (high front, low rear) and zero-zero and 0-0 feels better for drifting for me.

I noticed that you've been using a lot of positive front toe in your recent tunes as well. I noticed the sharper response with positive front toe, but usually it is outweighed by the mid corner push. Never thought of combining it with large camber though.

I've also read that using high negative camber will make the wheel want to pivot inwards (positive toe), so you have to use some negative toe to counteract this. I believe the term is called camber thrust.

Man, tuning is so complicated. Just when I thought I mastered it, there's always new combinations and tricks to discover

I used real life values for drift cars, so far it's not hindering me from going sideways I don't really worry about having the highest grip possible, but more focused on realistic performance level and handling This is why on replicas I used real life alignment. On older setups I posted, I used low camber or gives additional notes to use zero as options, it was a way for me to attract people to try my work

The mid corner push on large front toe in can be cured most of the time, my Sega Touring car builds all uses front toe in with their AWD layout, and on SM tire, they are tuned in a way to reduce the mid push.

In real life, depending on front suspension type, the wheels may go toe out on compression ( loaded ), so even with large negative camber, some toe in, often the result when loaded in corners, the wheels may be close to zero toe. Of course in GT6 , this may not happen at all, so on cars with mid corner push when using large front toe in + camber, I had to tweak the ARB and damper to suit Rear toe in may also be used to help.

The Aventador SV in Assetto Corsa uses front toe in, many cars IRL uses this front toe in for factory alignment, but they are more for safety purpose ( understeer on the limit ), the FD3S RX7 also uses front toe in ( factory alignment )

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I used real life values for drift cars, so far it's not hindering me from going sideways I don't really worry about having the highest grip possible, but more focused on realistic performance level and handling This is why on replicas I used real life alignment. On older setups I posted, I used low camber or gives additional notes to use zero as options, it was a way for me to attract people to try my work

The mid corner push on large front toe in can be cured most of the time, my Sega Touring car builds all uses front toe in with their AWD layout, and on SM tire, they are tuned in a way to reduce the mid push.

In real life, depending on front suspension type, the wheels may go toe out on compression ( loaded ), so even with large negative camber, some toe in, often the result when loaded in corners, the wheels may be close to zero toe. Of course in GT6 , this may not happen at all, so on cars with mid corner push when using large front toe in + camber, I had to tweak the ARB and damper to suit Rear toe in may also be used to help.

The Aventador SV in Assetto Corsa uses front toe in, many cars IRL uses this front toe in for factory alignment, but they are more for safety purpose ( understeer on the limit ), the FD3S RX7 also uses front toe in ( factory alignment )

If you use positive front toe, then tune out the push using other settings, isn't that a bit like 2 wrongs make a right? If you use negative front toe then you can setup the other settings neutral, wouldn't that be better? For replicas I understand if you want to make it as exact as possible. But tuning for pure speed or ease of driving it seems to be a roudabout way lol.

Good point about GT6 not simulating geometry changes with load (I doubt they do tbh). BTW, doesn't rear toe in make understeer even worse? You would want rear toe out to dial out the mid corner push.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

If you use positive front toe, then tune out the push using other settings, isn't that a bit like 2 wrongs make a right? If you use negative front toe then you can setup the other settings neutral, wouldn't that be better? For replicas I understand if you want to make it as exact as possible. But tuning for pure speed or ease of driving it seems to be a roudabout way lol.

Good point about GT6 not simulating geometry changes with load (I doubt they do tbh). BTW, doesn't rear toe in make understeer even worse? You would want rear toe out to dial out the mid corner push.

No, I don't think having front toe in will do that. There's no one or 2 wrong in suspension setup, every thing is interconnected. You can have zero camber and toe on both axle, yet still can make it push with damper/ARB/spring. LSD + weight distribution also greatly changed the overall car behavior.

I think GT6 do model dynamic suspension changes, it's just not easily perceivable or complex. There's a correlation between the amount of camber and toe ( either in or out ) that affect the car cornering behavior on various kind of corner ( good place is Apricot Hill Reverse, down hill and up hill turns )

For pure speed tuning, I often do not use all available avenues for ultimate ease or lap time, I tend to make it have character, have unique handling

One can compensate front toe in easily by raising front a bit, to add rotation, 2 or 5 mm higher front often more than enough. Going rear toe out can cause
too much oversteer

I often do tuning with limited/handicaps in the form of alignment, spring rate, weight distribution, and LSD, so working inside these chains gives more understanding of finding the limits of each values ( to reach certain goals ). True, with no restriction, it's easy to just go for the most neutral setup, but often this kills the car character. One of the most used method is ballast, altering distribution to get as close as 50%, which ruined AWD/MR/RR/FF/FR cars uniqueness in the process ( on cars that IRL have front or rear bias )

Weight distribution, then LSD, springs, ride height, ARB and last damper, these are the order of values that greatly affect car balance. One can make Cizeta handles like AWD car, simply by altering distribution, near open LSD, ride height exploit, then springs to make it behave, ARB and damper to polish it. All while having camber and toe on zero.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

No, I don't think having front toe in will do that. There's no one or 2 wrong in suspension setup, every thing is interconnected. You can have zero camber and toe on both axle, yet still can make it push with damper/ARB/spring. LSD + weight distribution also greatly changed the overall car behavior.

I think GT6 do model dynamic suspension changes, it's just not easily perceivable or complex. There's a correlation between the amount of camber and toe ( either in or out ) that affect the car cornering behavior on various kind of corner ( good place is Apricot Hill Reverse, down hill and up hill turns )

For pure speed tuning, I often do not use all available avenues for ultimate ease or lap time, I tend to make it have character, have unique handling

One can compensate front toe in easily by raising front a bit, to add rotation, 2 or 5 mm higher front often more than enough. Going rear toe out can cause
too much oversteer

I often do tuning with limited/handicaps in the form of alignment, spring rate, weight distribution, and LSD, so working inside these chains gives more understanding of finding the limits of each values ( to reach certain goals ). True, with no restriction, it's easy to just go for the most neutral setup, but often this kills the car character. One of the most used method is ballast, altering distribution to get as close as 50%, which ruined AWD/MR/RR/FF/FR cars uniqueness in the process ( on cars that IRL have front or rear bias )

Weight distribution, then LSD, springs, ride height, ARB and last damper, these are the order of values that greatly affect car balance. One can make Cizeta handles like AWD car, simply by altering distribution, near open LSD, ride height exploit, then springs to make it behave, ARB and damper to polish it. All while having camber and toe on zero.

I agree in tuning while maintaining character. Because of this also I'm reluctant to use ballast to make cars easier to drive (unless their stock weight is wrong). Cars in GT already feel quite similar to one another, we don't need to make everything the same. Thankfully your tunes managed to retain the original cars' characters while also making them easier to drive

BTW I tried your Aventador SV on Red Bull Ring. I drove the car in AC on Hypercar road tyres, then compared it to your tune (used the 45/55 weight distribution, CS tyre, AC ride height and CORSA mode with TC/ABS off). I'd say it's 90% spot on. On corner entry to apex it's practically the same, but on corner exits the GT6 car tends to light up the rear tyres easier. The SV in AC is just so stable, even with TC off. I take it it's because PD doesn't model the wide rear tyres properly again. Maybe with CS/SH it will be better, but some suspension changes will be needed to compensate.

Another question: what are your deciding factor whether to fit chassis rigidity to a car? If the real car have it, fair enough, but what if it doesn't? I've seen a lot of your tunes not installing it, but you wrote Optional: highly recommended and there is no side effect. Because it's a non-reversible upgrade I have never installed this. In GT5 I installed it on every car and it just makes everything understeer. In GT6 I find if you put Racing tyres on road cars you need it, but for Comfort/Sports tyres I don't really see any benefit. Are there any adjustments to suspension/LSD to take advantage of the extra rigidity on road cars?

Finally, for road cars with no front downforce, does adding a rear wing help much? If the car is already understeering then obviously no. But for MR and RR cars I find sometimes it's better to have rear downforce, sometimes not. How much stiffer do you have to make the rear springs/dampers to cope with the extra downforce usually?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

I agree in tuning while maintaining character. Because of this also I'm reluctant to use ballast to make cars easier to drive (unless their stock weight is wrong). Cars in GT already feel quite similar to one another, we don't need to make everything the same. Thankfully your tunes managed to retain the original cars' characters while also making them easier to drive

BTW I tried your Aventador SV on Red Bull Ring. I drove the car in AC on Hypercar road tyres, then compared it to your tune (used the 45/55 weight distribution, CS tyre, AC ride height and CORSA mode with TC/ABS off). I'd say it's 90% spot on. On corner entry to apex it's practically the same, but on corner exits the GT6 car tends to light up the rear tyres easier. The SV in AC is just so stable, even with TC off. I take it it's because PD doesn't model the wide rear tyres properly again. Maybe with CS/SH it will be better, but some suspension changes will be needed to compensate.

Another question: what are your deciding factor whether to fit chassis rigidity to a car? If the real car have it, fair enough, but what if it doesn't? I've seen a lot of your tunes not installing it, but you wrote Optional: highly recommended and there is no side effect. Because it's a non-reversible upgrade I have never installed this. In GT5 I installed it on every car and it just makes everything understeer. In GT6 I find if you put Racing tyres on road cars you need it, but for Comfort/Sports tyres I don't really see any benefit. Are there any adjustments to suspension/LSD to take advantage of the extra rigidity on road cars?

Finally, for road cars with no front downforce, does adding a rear wing help much? If the car is already understeering then obviously no. But for MR and RR cars I find sometimes it's better to have rear downforce, sometimes not. How much stiffer do you have to make the rear springs/dampers to cope with the extra downforce usually?

So, you have driven the Aventador SV You should try the other weight distribution, 42/58, it gives better traction, I included the 45/55 as it was listed in MotorTrend website, but other sources test always have around 57-58% rear. Also be sure to have the torque split at 40:60 for Corsa The replica base ride height 104/104 also have better stability IMO, the ride height glitch in GT6 can be troublesome giving opposite effect

With PD, usually the front tires is the one that have too much grip on cars with wider rear tires.

Chassis rigidity, there are several factors of using it for me, first is the real car, if the real car have improved chassis stiffness like chassis bracing, roll cage, seam welding, stiffer bushing etc, I will install it in GT6. Second, if the car in GT6 is lacking in chassis stiffness, too much roll with spring/ARB on high or to cure inherent oversteer tendency that can't be fully cured with usual method. Third, for high grip tires fitment, road cars often needs increased rigidity to help it cope with increased roll, dynamic suspension changes due to much higher grip limit. My GT3 and GT4 replicas all have body rigidity improvement.

On tunes with optional body rigidity, I wrote highly recommended as it does not give bad side effects, meaning it's unlikely to make it handling worse, but may help with stability, especially if the player will use racing tires ( which often used on road cars by GT6 players )

For suspension adjustment with the extra rigidity, usually lower damper compression or lower ARB ( one end of the axle or both ) can get it close to original state before rigidity improvement ( less understeer ) I added specific changes for body rigidity on NSX LM GT2 replica, you can try that if interested

For road cars with no front aero, adding rear aero only gives minimal effect ( wings only add 20 point aero ), but if you feel the rear having too much grip, try increase rear damper compression and extension, increasing ride height on both ends ( 5-10 mm ) also helps if the car already too low ( bottom out ). I highly suggest to add 5 or 10 to rear wing aero, don't use max 20 unless necessary.

With diffuser/flat floor, it adds a lot of aero both front and rear, my prediction is about 100-150 front and 200-300 rear. The gobs of downforce needs big changes on springs, damper and ARB on most cases, sometimes also ride height. I only use this for authenticity, if I wanted the car to have closer to real life high speed acceleration, also not recommended when tuning for PP limited races ( the PP penalty can be over 25 points ), and cornering grip often negated by the diminished acceleration and top speed ( although it's more realistic because the GT6 aero drag issue )

 

[LeGeNd-1]

So, you have driven the Aventador SV You should try the other weight distribution, 42/58, it gives better traction, I included the 45/55 as it was listed in MotorTrend website, but other sources test always have around 57-58% rear. Also be sure to have the torque split at 40:60 for Corsa The replica base ride height 104/104 also have better stability IMO, the ride height glitch in GT6 can be troublesome giving opposite effect

With PD, usually the front tires is the one that have too much grip on cars with wider rear tires.

I started with the most conservative weight distribution first. If the 45/55 is already quite tail happy I think the 42/58 will be even worse. I'll give it a try though 👍 I did use 40:60 torque split. Also used the medium preload for more stability as per tuner notes.

I also tried the 104/104 ride height, but as we are comparing to AC I thought it's only fair to use AC values It is quite annoying how the ride height glitch works on some cars and don't on others.

As for the tyres, I guess we can try CM/CS. But on CS/CS I feel the front grip is already spot on compared to AC, hence my suggestion going CS/SH.

Chassis rigidity, there are several factors of using it for me, first is the real car, if the real car have improved chassis stiffness like chassis bracing, roll cage, seam welding, stiffer bushing etc, I will install it in GT6. Second, if the car in GT6 is lacking in chassis stiffness, too much roll with spring/ARB on high or to cure inherent oversteer tendency that can't be fully cured with usual method. Third, for high grip tires fitment, road cars often needs increased rigidity to help it cope with increased roll, dynamic suspension changes due to much higher grip limit. My GT3 and GT4 replicas all have body rigidity improvement.

On tunes with optional body rigidity, I wrote highly recommended as it does not give bad side effects, meaning it's unlikely to make it handling worse, but may help with stability, especially if the player will use racing tires ( which often used on road cars by GT6 players )

For suspension adjustment with the extra rigidity, usually lower damper compression or lower ARB ( one end of the axle or both ) can get it close to original state before rigidity improvement ( less understeer ) I added specific changes for body rigidity on NSX LM GT2 replica, you can try that if interested

How do you deal with race cars that presumably already have chassis rigidity then? I have seen a couple of your race car tunes with rigidity. I guess you just have to test it and see if it needs more.

Yeah I have tested the NSX GT2. I used the non-rigidity version coz I don't want to install it on mine lol. Works well enough 👍

For road cars with no front aero, adding rear aero only gives minimal effect ( wings only add 20 point aero ), but if you feel the rear having too much grip, try increase rear damper compression and extension, increasing ride height on both ends ( 5-10 mm ) also helps if the car already too low ( bottom out ). I highly suggest to add 5 or 10 to rear wing aero, don't use max 20 unless necessary.

With diffuser/flat floor, it adds a lot of aero both front and rear, my prediction is about 100-150 front and 200-300 rear. The gobs of downforce needs big changes on springs, damper and ARB on most cases, sometimes also ride height. I only use this for authenticity, if I wanted the car to have closer to real life high speed acceleration, also not recommended when tuning for PP limited races ( the PP penalty can be over 25 points ), and cornering grip often negated by the diminished acceleration and top speed ( although it's more realistic because the GT6 aero drag issue )

Yeah I thought the effect is minimal, but on some cars it changes significantly. Some get gobs of understeer, some gets oversteer (probably due to bottoming out as you said).

It's weird with aero. If you remember in GT5 most cars have 2 digit values. The values have been carried over to GT6, but PD added another zero behind it (e.g. Super GTs in GT5 is 50/70 but it becomes 500/700 in GT6). Adding a rear wing add 20 points in GT5, and still only adds 20 in GT6. But I wonder if it actually adds 200...

I never install flat floor. The PP and top speed cost is often not worth the grip. Also it kinda tames the car too much as you mentioned.

 

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I started with the most conservative weight distribution first. If the 45/55 is already quite tail happy I think the 42/58 will be even worse. I'll give it a try though 👍 I did use 40:60 torque split. Also used the medium preload for more stability as per tuner notes.

I also tried the 104/104 ride height, but as we are comparing to AC I thought it's only fair to use AC values It is quite annoying how the ride height glitch works on some cars and don't on others.

As for the tyres, I guess we can try CM/CS. But on CS/CS I feel the front grip is already spot on compared to AC, hence my suggestion going CS/SH.



How do you deal with race cars that presumably already have chassis rigidity then? I have seen a couple of your race car tunes with rigidity. I guess you just have to test it and see if it needs more.

Yeah I have tested the NSX GT2. I used the non-rigidity version coz I don't want to install it on mine lol. Works well enough 👍



Yeah I thought the effect is minimal, but on some cars it changes significantly. Some get gobs of understeer, some gets oversteer (probably due to bottoming out as you said).

It's weird with aero. If you remember in GT5 most cars have 2 digit values. The values have been carried over to GT6, but PD added another zero behind it (e.g. Super GTs in GT5 is 50/70 but it becomes 500/700 in GT6). Adding a rear wing add 20 points in GT5, and still only adds 20 in GT6. But I wonder if it actually adds 200...

I never install flat floor. The PP and top speed cost is often not worth the grip. Also it kinda tames the car too much as you mentioned.

I actually never drove the 45/55 distribution From building to testing stage, I used 58% rear The ride height glitch I think applies to all cars in GT6, higher front increases rotation, higher rear reduces rotation

CS/SH sounds good, I may try it as well

Sometimes race cars in GT6 have relatively low spring rate range ( not stiff enough even on max ), on these cars that tend to have not enough chassis stiffness, I installed body rigidity.

Regarding rear wing in GT5 adding 20 and GT6 20, that's interesting, maybe GT6 20 is indeed 200 ( another bug ) I've installed many rear wing at 20 in GT6, the top speed reduction is minimal, will need more testing.