RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Interesting. I would have expected an F1 car to use a more sophisticated system (an electronic diff of some sort). Maybe that's just the way rFactor decides to model the system though.

It's simpler system that on open wheel should be sufficient as the high aero/grip nature of the car, less needs of aggressive LSD. With pump on Rfactor, I think the easiest way to tune it is to increase it slowly ( I think higher will send more torque to the outside wheel, more oversteer, low or zero closer to open diff, which may cause understeer on open wheel car )

Viscous also used on cars like Nissan 370Z and some older Mazdas if Rfactor has Fairlady, it should use pump as default LSD.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

It's simpler system that on open wheel should be sufficient as the high aero/grip nature of the car, less needs of aggressive LSD. With pump on Rfactor, I think the easiest way to tune it is to increase it slowly ( I think higher will send more torque to the outside wheel, more oversteer, low or zero closer to open diff, which may cause understeer on open wheel car )

Viscous also used on cars like Nissan 370Z and some older Mazdas if Rfactor has Fairlady, it should use pump as default LSD.

Makes sense if you put it that way. It's a bit confusing though having 4 variables to tune now. The Accel and Decel I can deal with, but how do you decide whether to adjust Preload or Pump, for example?

Also, I've just taken a look at EA Sports F1 2002, which is basically the prototype of rFactor. It only has one diff setting called Differential Lock. According to the tuning guide:
0% - oversteer off throttle, understeer on throttle
100% - understeer off throttle, oversteer on throttle

So it's basically a combined Accel/Decel setting. Probably a bit simplified as it is running an older version of ISImotor.

Looking at Richard Burns Rally it's even crazier as you can adjust each individual locking map at 10% throttle position intervals

Does LFS have a different setup for each car too?

I have to say LSD is the most mind bending car setting ever lol. You need LSD to understand it, it seems (don't do drugs kids, this is just a joke ).

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Makes sense if you put it that way. It's a bit confusing though having 4 variables to tune now. The Accel and Decel I can deal with, but how do you decide whether to adjust Preload or Pump, for example?

Also, I've just taken a look at EA Sports F1 2002, which is basically the prototype of rFactor. It only has one diff setting called Differential Lock. According to the tuning guide:
0% - oversteer off throttle, understeer on throttle
100% - understeer off throttle, oversteer on throttle

So it's basically a combined Accel/Decel setting. Probably a bit simplified as it is running an older version of ISImotor.

Looking at Richard Burns Rally it's even crazier as you can adjust each individual locking map at 10% throttle position intervals

Does LFS have a different setup for each car too?

I have to say LSD is the most mind bending car setting ever lol. You need LSD to understand it, it seems (don't do drugs kids, this is just a joke ).

I don't think you can use both pump and preload/accel/brake together, unless the car may be AWD like Subaru that uses viscous center diff, so pump may be used for the center diff.

Tuning preload is simple process, get the accel and brake to zero ( no lock ), apply only preload, you should feel there's resistance on driven wheels, the higher the preload the more tighter it drives, find low speed corner and medium combo, drive through them, try to find a balance of turn in, and good rotation on exit, while slowly modulating the throttle ( releasing is slowly on entry and applying it slowly on exit ) The lower the preload, the less obvious the handling balance changes during the entry to exit, the higher the preload, you should feel bigger change in behavior ( with zero lock on accel/brake ), as the preload torque overcome by the load on driven wheel, the diff will breakaway, and you can feel it became loose on entry braking and some push on exit ( inner wheelspin )

Preload tuning is balance to your driving style, do you like stable car, the more you will prefer higher preload, but you can also match it with lower lock for wet track surface for example.

In LFS, there are several types of LSD, clutch pack, viscous, locked and open available on each car.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I don't think you can use both pump and preload/accel/brake together, unless the car may be AWD like Subaru that uses viscous center diff, so pump may be used for the center diff.

Tuning preload is simple process, get the accel and brake to zero ( no lock ), apply only preload, you should feel there's resistance on driven wheels, the higher the preload the more tighter it drives, find low speed corner and medium combo, drive through them, try to find a balance of turn in, and good rotation on exit, while slowly modulating the throttle ( releasing is slowly on entry and applying it slowly on exit ) The lower the preload, the less obvious the handling balance changes during the entry to exit, the higher the preload, you should feel bigger change in behavior ( with zero lock on accel/brake ), as the preload torque overcome by the load on driven wheel, the diff will breakaway, and you can feel it became loose on entry braking and some push on exit ( inner wheelspin )

Preload tuning is balance to your driving style, do you like stable car, the more you will prefer higher preload, but you can also match it with lower lock for wet track surface for example.

In LFS, there are several types of LSD, clutch pack, viscous, locked and open available on each car.

That's what I'm confused about. Because in rFactor and F1 Challenge you can adjust Pump/Preload/Power/Coast separately. I'm pretty sure F1 isn't AWD either

I understand what Preload does, but I'm confused how Pump enters the whole equation in rFactor/F1 Challenge. Seems to me like a redundant setting because you can already adjust Power/Coast separately. Is it like a master setting that overrides all the other settings? I guess that's not really a question for this forum though.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

That's what I'm confused about. Because in rFactor and F1 Challenge you can adjust Pump/Preload/Power/Coast separately. I'm pretty sure F1 isn't AWD either

I understand what Preload does, but I'm confused how Pump enters the whole equation in rFactor/F1 Challenge. Seems to me like a redundant setting because you can already adjust Power/Coast separately. Is it like a master setting that overrides all the other settings? I guess that's not really a question for this forum though.

Must be a glitch

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I just checked every car in LFS. I think this game has the best implementation of LSD. The type is listed clearly at the top, and you have separate sliders (marked with real units) for preload/power/coast. Then 4WD cars like the RB4 have front open diff (listed clearly, with no sliders available) and a center viscous diff (with slider for viscous torque - I assume this refers to the fluid's viscosity thickness). Racing 4WD car like the FXO GTR have front and rear clutch pack + center viscous. The BMW F1 has a rear only preload/power/coast with no pump in sight. LFS is da bomb 👍

I googled some more rFactor stuff, and this is the best explanation I can get:

The "Pump" is the total Diff characteristic (0 = Open, 100 = Welded). Power and Coast are then sub-refinements, and Preload is a threshold.

http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.p...fferential-Pump-and-Preload-reduces-wheelspin

Not very realistic then. But it's not a glitch otherwise they would have removed it in rFactor 2. Anyway, it is what it is. Case closed (for now at least ).

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

That's weird for Rfactor to use pump then I thought it would be similar to viscous type ( with higher number should result in more oversteer ).

What happens with 50 pump, max preload and no lock on accel and brake, should be interesting

 

[OdeFinn]

I've just skimmed that thread briefly. I'm surprised that clutch and driveshaft upgrades affect LSD. From my understanding the clutch upgrade in GT is referring to the gear change clutch, and not the clutch inside the diff. Unless I've got it wrong and they are the same thing???

Sometimes I think we are overcomplicating things with GT. To me the clutch upgrade just helps make gear change faster, and driveshaft makes acceleration a little bit faster. I've not done any scientific tests though so I'm happy to be proven wrong.

In general I also find small changes hard to feel in GT compared to PC sims. Unless you make extreme or undrivable changes, I'm still not 100% sure whether the change is placebo or real or my driving has changed. The physics and FFB are just not very "clear". I can make a 1-2 click spring change in rFactor and immediately feel a clear difference. It's not an exaggerated difference like Codemasters simcade games either. Because of this sometimes I feel chasing the perfect tune in GT is not really worth it. Just slap a rough tune, as long as the car is not undrivable is good enough

I didn't either think those to be meaningful on LSD, until changing them after peak tuned car and wondered what happened, feels like LSD activation has changed etc, got base understanding from effect and after tests (seen on that thread) figured total change amount, including that physical response change on throttle pedal.

No, more like oversimplifying understanding of GT6 settings

I feel those 0.01 changes on toe, 0.01 changes on springs, 0.1 on camber etc, one click makes a lot if car is tuned to be precise. Often people are leaving some areas of car bit "loose" and there is hard to feel changes, even I'm leaving some cars bit "soft/loose" where there is kinda tolerance on setup.
FFB is actually pretty precise on GT6, only if you setup parameters of it to mask actions it won't give good feedback.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ly-nest-forced-feedback.346455/#post-11389723
If you use G27 or G25 do first switch to 670 and back to 900 and y you get many degrees of free play out on center, "no deadzone" after it.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/g27-g25-dfgt-undocumented-wheel-lock-settings-guide.286646/

 

[ALB123]

Holy crap!! Kunos just announced that they have signed a license agreement with Porsche!!! After 12 long years, Porsche is finally back in the sim racing world...

I know this means nothing for you guys right now, but I'm hoping at least some of you buy Assetto Corsa if you plan on getting or have already gotten a PS4. It would be awesome to be able to drive with you guys again... OMG... They've been hyping up a BIG announcement for a couple of weeks. This is way bigger than I thought.

 

[OdeFinn]

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 23.46 19.39
Dampers (Compression): 4 4
Dampers (Extension): 2 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.32 0.43

The front damper and toe change was an experiment when I posted the original setup, it did 1:30.009 at Red Bull Ring, could have been 1:29s if not making some mistakes ( too late braking ). Similar lap time to SLS AMG GT3 online tune I made for @danbojte , tried the setup at Brands Hatch GP, able to take 1st turn well, and overall stable at a cost of high toe usage.

Front damper compression at 5 or 6 allows the car to be much stable on low speed exit, but became slower to rotate ( with front extension at 1 )

Tested as is, front springs gives bit rocking on front and slow reaction on steer leaving slight understeer, rear toe "over brakes" during entry and losses grip too easily on early throttle opening, have to manipulate throttle quite lot.
Tested how to reduce front rocking and understeer, added extension 3 and rocking reduces, but not gone totally, decided to settle with that because it give better reaction on steer and that was target, also reduces front roll during slow to high speed cornering what helped lot too.
Checked that rear toe, targeting maximum grip during corner entry and early throttle flooring, ended up +0.27 toe, bigger toe in and earlier problem start to exist, lower toe and grip is too low and car starts to understeer corner entrys, and not sufficient grip for early throttle open.
With front damper extension 3 and rear toe +0.27 car felt really really good, oh well I had that brake bias set on 3/3.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Holy crap!! Kunos just announced that they have signed a license agreement with Porsche!!! After 12 long years, Porsche is finally back in the sim racing world...

I know this means nothing for you guys right now, but I'm hoping at least some of you buy Assetto Corsa if you plan on getting or have already gotten a PS4. It would be awesome to be able to drive with you guys again... OMG... They've been hyping up a BIG announcement for a couple of weeks. This is way bigger than I thought.

That's awesome Hoping the Porsche will be in base game on PS4.

Tested as is, front springs gives bit rocking on front and slow reaction on steer leaving slight understeer, rear toe "over brakes" during entry and losses grip too easily on early throttle opening, have to manipulate throttle quite lot.
Tested how to reduce front rocking and understeer, added extension 3 and rocking reduces, but not gone totally, decided to settle with that because it give better reaction on steer and that was target, also reduces front roll during slow to high speed cornering what helped lot too.
Checked that rear toe, targeting maximum grip during corner entry and early throttle flooring, ended up +0.27 toe, bigger toe in and earlier problem start to exist, lower toe and grip is too low and car starts to understeer corner entrys, and not sufficient grip for early throttle open.
With front damper extension 3 and rear toe +0.27 car felt really really good, oh well I had that brake bias set on 3/3.

I had BB at 3/4, my driving style seems to be affecting a lot on how I setup the damper. For toe in, I actually drove the same setup on zero toe as well and find to be able to adapt easily, so that makes it harder for me to pinpoint the issue as I subconsciously modulate brake and throttle as I drive.

I will upload both replay from Red Bull Ring and Apricot Hill Reverse lap on the tune

I'm hoping to see your run as well to see how the car drive on your setup changes

Oh, when the rear started to get antsy on low speed exit, I usually just stab the gas and it straighten out quickly ( 60 accel ) , as long as the car pointed relatively straight with little steering input.

 

[OdeFinn]

That's awesome Hoping the Porsche will be in base game on PS4.



I had BB at 3/4, my driving style seems to be affecting a lot on how I setup the damper. For toe in, I actually drove the same setup on zero toe as well and find to be able to adapt easily, so that makes it harder for me to pinpoint the issue as I subconsciously modulate brake and throttle as I drive.

I will upload both replay from Red Bull Ring and Apricot Hill Reverse lap on the tune

I'm hoping to see your run as well to see how the car drive on your setup changes

Oh, when the rear started to get antsy on low speed exit, I usually just stab the gas and it straighten out quickly ( 60 accel ) , as long as the car pointed relatively straight with little steering input.

1:31.2 on redbull, not pushing, testing lap, 1:24.5 brands gp, testing lap.
You want YouTube or replay?
My point on view were minimize adaptation needs, after those changes I was able first time ever drift thru any corner with Audi, no fear of snaps or over throw rear.

Those tracks aren't my most driven ones, redbull I probably can do something comparable time, but brands no way, hardly driven there.

Btw. Rocking wasn't fault, it was just brands surface, on redbull felt familiar surface shapes, but roll was "problem" before adding more extension resist.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

1:31.2 on redbull, not pushing, testing lap, 1:24.5 brands gp, testing lap.
You want YouTube or replay?
My point on view were minimize adaptation needs, after those changes I was able first time ever drift thru any corner with Audi, no fear of snaps or over throw rear.

Those tracks aren't my most driven ones, redbull I probably can do something comparable time, but brands no way, hardly driven there.

Replay please Easier for me to just download a small file I will upload mine so you can also see how I drive, lap time is not the primary concern, I just want to see how the car behave when pushed on entry and exit with a wheel/pedal

For Brands, I think I did 1:23s in the past with the R8 ( different tune though, but same stock power/weight )

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

The replays of my test lap with the last setup,

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 23.46 19.39
Dampers (Compression): 4 4
Dampers (Extension): 2 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 3
Camber Angle: 2.0 3.0
Toe Angle: -0.32 0.43

Time 1:30.009 at RBR, 1:18.9xx at Apricot Hill Reverse, and 1:24.2x at Brands Hatch GP ( this one uses 0.38 rear toe in, which I find better than 0.43, LSD initial 12 )

The 2nd turn of Brands gives unique behavior on the R8, as I coast to hit the apex, the car can be felt loose suddenly as the revs dropped ( throttle getting low - due to the immense difference between preload/initial and accel lock ). I increased LSD initial to 14, and it reduce this greatly, much stable, but also gives more tight handling overall.

@LeGeNd-1 Have you tried the R8 setup that I last posted ( one with toe values ) ?

 

[LeGeNd-1]

That's weird for Rfactor to use pump then I thought it would be similar to viscous type ( with higher number should result in more oversteer ).

What happens with 50 pump, max preload and no lock on accel and brake, should be interesting

Yeah, it's weird. I don't know what real world setting they are trying to emulate with pump.

I just tested the 4 settings separately in rFactor, BMW Sauber F1 at Montreal (Turn 2 is a great place for testing everything). They work as quoted in the article I linked to.

I suspect 50 pump will be a neutral baseline setting. Max preload will be stable coasting. 0% accel will cause exit understeer and 0% brake will cause entry oversteer. Not a great setup I'll give it a try and let you know.

And no, I haven't managed to try the R8 setups. Still a bit busy trying out LSD settings in all my other sims lol. I'll get to it shortly and let you know what I think.

I didn't either think those to be meaningful on LSD, until changing them after peak tuned car and wondered what happened, feels like LSD activation has changed etc, got base understanding from effect and after tests (seen on that thread) figured total change amount, including that physical response change on throttle pedal.

No, more like oversimplifying understanding of GT6 settings

I feel those 0.01 changes on toe, 0.01 changes on springs, 0.1 on camber etc, one click makes a lot if car is tuned to be precise. Often people are leaving some areas of car bit "loose" and there is hard to feel changes, even I'm leaving some cars bit "soft/loose" where there is kinda tolerance on setup.
FFB is actually pretty precise on GT6, only if you setup parameters of it to mask actions it won't give good feedback.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ly-nest-forced-feedback.346455/#post-11389723
If you use G27 or G25 do first switch to 670 and back to 900 and y you get many degrees of free play out on center, "no deadzone" after it.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/g27-g25-dfgt-undocumented-wheel-lock-settings-guide.286646/

Well I'll trust your word on clutch/driveshaft then. My finger and feet-o-meter is probably not as sensitive as yours

Interesting thread on FFB. Just for reference, I use Logitech G25.

- CSS I always put at zero. I can feel little changes with -2 and +7 with a wheel, but it's mostly for Formula and Red Bull cars. In road cars I can barely detect a difference. I always thought it just changes the controller sensitivity curve. -2 is an exponential curve _/, +7 is the opposite curve /-- and zero is linear so I just used that.

- FFT I've been going from 10 to 1 and now to 8 again. Low forces are good for feeling subtle feedback, but after playing PC sims the feedback in GT is very lacking, so I had to increase it to 8 to feel anything properly. I still use 1 for drifting and rally though. Increasing this also has the side effect of increasing useless resistance, which I'll come back to in a minute...

- FFS I've always left it at 10. No point using any less as you want all weight transfer and road surface detail at all times.

- Power Steering OFF. I'm surprised you mentioned it makes things better. I tried this once back in GT5 and it just ruins everything for me. The wheel goes light for no reason at all and it's very disconcerting. If you say it helps uncover more subtle feedback I might have to try it again though.

- Steering Type Simulation. I think we all agree on this one.

- Deadzone I have never feel it's an issue with GT. It's one of the best features of GT FFB actually. With any other game my G25 always has the infamous gear driven wheel deadzone, but with GT it's all tight and precise around the center. No complaints.

IMO, the power steering issue can be solved just by PD adding another slider for damper/centering spring strength. Turn that down and voila! All that's left is steering force, tyre grip and road feel. Much improved feeling instead of the current FFB that's 80% just noise. GT's FFB in brake locking and oversteer is actually pretty good compared to PC sims. It's just the brick tyre physics that lets it down.

 

[OdeFinn]

Well I'll trust your word on clutch/driveshaft then. My finger and feet-o-meter is probably not as sensitive as yours

Interesting thread on FFB. Just for reference, I use Logitech G25.

Powersteering masks lot, never trying to get good setup with it because of that.
You probably will feel lot of those if you try similar wheel/game setup as I.

- CSS I always put at zero. I can feel little changes with -2 and +7 with a wheel, but it's mostly for Formula and Red Bull cars. In road cars I can barely detect a difference. I always thought it just changes the controller sensitivity curve. -2 is an exponential curve _/, +7 is the opposite curve /-- and zero is linear so I just used that.

Sensitivity setting is important for proper feedback feel, you should test at 6, and those other setting as I'm having.

- Power Steering OFF. I'm surprised you mentioned it makes things better. I tried this once back in GT5 and it just ruins everything for me. The wheel goes light for no reason at all and it's very disconcerting. If you say it helps uncover more subtle feedback I might have to try it again though.

GT6 powersteering works actually fine, wheel lockups are clear to feel, minor suspension moves can be felt precisely.

- Deadzone I have never feel it's an issue with GT. It's one of the best features of GT FFB actually. With any other game my G25 always has the infamous gear driven wheel deadzone, but with GT it's all tight and precise around the center. No complaints.

Tested that deadzone on my G27 and using that 670-900 switching reduces several degree from deadzone, after tweak there is no "clack" on center when wheel resists changes to opposite side, and wheel force feedback on quick rumbles doesn't clack on wheel, instead coming clearly to hand.
This deadzone change amount is tested on datalogger, so not just "feel".

IMO, the power steering issue can be solved just by PD adding another slider for damper/centering spring strength. Turn that down and voila! All that's left is steering force, tyre grip and road feel. Much improved feeling instead of the current FFB that's 80% just noise. GT's FFB in brake locking and oversteer is actually pretty good compared to PC sims. It's just the brick tyre physics that lets it down.

And it gets better when all settings and tweaks are used properly.

 

[OdeFinn]

@Ridox2JZGTE here's Red Bull Ring replay, drinking morning coffee and doing it, bit aggressive driving, playing around and searching brake spots, sleeping downshifts etc..

That's with those latest tweaks what I mentioned earlier. Just thinking at you might want to see 1:1 setup of yours on wheel.. Doing it soon.

Edit: replays with your name are with your setup 1:1.

Had to admit at that setup suits well on RBR, on brands it have slight snap flaw.
Not comparable replays, first were driven during wake-up process..

 

[GT6champNK_69]

'Hey RIDOX';. I have been making some of your old tunes and your latest tunes, it makes it so much better spending lots of hours playing GT6 my friend:tup:.
I was just thinking, it's Le Mans weekend, could you make your magic touch on the 'Ferrari 488 GTE GT Pro #82, using the 458';
'Ferrari 458 Italia GT Pro #62';
'Aston Martin Vantage GT Pro #95';
'Chevrolet Corvette C7 C7R GT Pro #63';
And the LMP1, and LMP2 cars if you can find the information needed.

I know you have made some of the cars mentioned, but I think you haven't been making them in Le Mans trim. There are one particular car that I have been wondering about no one have replica tuned. The Opel Calibra Touring Car Team Phoenix, will you be interested spending time on that also RIDOX.
Again big thanks for making this mind blowing excellent garage, and for continuing adding new tunes mate. Can't wait for GT SPORT arrives.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

'Hey RIDOX';. I have been making some of your old tunes and your latest tunes, it makes it so much better spending lots of hours playing GT6 my friend:tup:.
I was just thinking, it's Le Mans weekend, could you make your magic touch on the 'Ferrari 488 GTE GT Pro #82, using the 458';
'Ferrari 458 Italia GT Pro #62';
'Aston Martin Vantage GT Pro #95';
'Chevrolet Corvette C7 C7R GT Pro #63';
And the LMP1, and LMP2 cars if you can find the information needed.

I know you have made some of the cars mentioned, but I think you haven't been making them in Le Mans trim. There are one particular car that I have been wondering about no one have replica tuned. The Opel Calibra Touring Car Team Phoenix, will you be interested spending time on that also RIDOX.
Again big thanks for making this mind blowing excellent garage, and for continuing adding new tunes mate. Can't wait for GT SPORT arrives.

I don't have much spare time doing LM spec of those cars, you could simply just change the power/weight to the LM spec from the GT3 replicas I made.

For the Calibra, yeah I have it tuned long ago together with 155, while for LMP, I only have the NISMO GTR LM, that car is awesome fun

 

[tgr77]

And the LMP1, and LMP2 cars if you can find the information needed.

i have all of the le mans LMP, Group C and LMGTP on real specs and with a correct gearbox for the Group C Toyota 88C-V(5 gears instead of 6). i can upload them if you want and if Ridox is ok with it

 

[GT6champNK_69]

i have all of the le mans LMP, Group C and LMGTP on real specs and with a correct gearbox for the Group C Toyota 88C-V(5 gears instead of 6). i can upload them if you want and if Ridox is ok with it

That sounds awesome mate. You can also just PM to me the specs, that would be more appropriate. Thanks again. 👍

 

[GT6champNK_69]

I don't have much spare time doing LM spec of those cars, you could simply just change the power/weight to the LM spec from the GT3 replicas I made.

For the Calibra, yeah I have it tuned long ago together with 155, while for LMP, I only have the NISMO GTR LM, that car is awesome fun

Yeah I know, there's a real life besides gaming. Sometimes it really takes much more time than we expect. Would you mind posting the specs you have for the Calibra, that would be awesome.
Will do what you suggest about the GT cars, some tweaking will certainly do the job.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Ridox, believe it or not I've just gone through all 148 pages of this thread. Bookmarked around 20 or so cars that looks interesting. Will be building them up over the next few days and post some impressions

I noticed you have quite a lot of Wangan Midnight cars. May I suggest some Initial D replicas? Even just the SS Trueno, tuned to Final Stage specs will be sufficient for me The stock AE86 is completely wrong in GT because PD messed up the weight distribution. With some Ridox magic I think we can restore the fun the actual car has 👍

Powersteering masks lot, never trying to get good setup with it because of that.
You probably will feel lot of those if you try similar wheel/game setup as I.



Sensitivity setting is important for proper feedback feel, you should test at 6, and those other setting as I'm having.



GT6 powersteering works actually fine, wheel lockups are clear to feel, minor suspension moves can be felt precisely.



Tested that deadzone on my G27 and using that 670-900 switching reduces several degree from deadzone, after tweak there is no "clack" on center when wheel resists changes to opposite side, and wheel force feedback on quick rumbles doesn't clack on wheel, instead coming clearly to hand.
This deadzone change amount is tested on datalogger, so not just "feel".


And it gets better when all settings and tweaks are used properly.

Higher CCS just feels a teeny tiny bit more direct to me. In any case, it's not groundbreaking and I cannot say 100% that it's not placebo effect in my head.

Powersteering after I tried again is also quite similar on/off. The only big difference is during quick movements such as countersteering, where power steering makes the wheel go light. It's quite unnerving to suddenly lose all feedback So I think I'll stick to powersteering off. Maybe I lose a bit of detail, but it's not worth the large loss of feedback when countersteering.

Again, I don't feel any improvement in deadzone with that trick. If anything it makes it worse after I switch 900-670-900 In any case, I never felt deadzone to be a problem in GT so it's not an issue that needs fixing for me. Just curious though, how do you test the change in datalogger?

I've been jumping between PC sims and GT again for the last few days. Even with Ridox tune + all your FFB tricks, GT is still nowhere near the level of feel of older sims like LFS or GTR2. Assetto Corsa and Automobilista is on another level entirely. I think it's a lost cause to be honest. I'll have fun with Ridox tune until GTS release, then we'll see if PD have made any improvement worth playing.

Now, if you excuse me, I've got some cars to build

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Yeah I know, there's a real life besides gaming. Sometimes it really takes much more time than we expect. Would you mind posting the specs you have for the Calibra, that would be awesome.
Will do what you suggest about the GT cars, some tweaking will certainly do the job.

The Calibra is a custom tune, it was made out of nostalgia playing Sega Touring Car Championship arcade when I was young ( was a set of 3, Alfa 155, Opel Calibra, Supra GT )

Ridox, believe it or not I've just gone through all 148 pages of this thread. Bookmarked around 20 or so cars that looks interesting. Will be building them up over the next few days and post some impressions

I noticed you have quite a lot of Wangan Midnight cars. May I suggest some Initial D replicas? Even just the SS Trueno, tuned to Final Stage specs will be sufficient for me The stock AE86 is completely wrong in GT because PD messed up the weight distribution. With some Ridox magic I think we can restore the fun the actual car has 👍



Higher CCS just feels a teeny tiny bit more direct to me. In any case, it's not groundbreaking and I cannot say 100% that it's not placebo effect in my head.

Powersteering after I tried again is also quite similar on/off. The only big difference is during quick movements such as countersteering, where power steering makes the wheel go light. It's quite unnerving to suddenly lose all feedback So I think I'll stick to powersteering off. Maybe I lose a bit of detail, but it's not worth the large loss of feedback when countersteering.

Again, I don't feel any improvement in deadzone with that trick. If anything it makes it worse after I switch 900-670-900 In any case, I never felt deadzone to be a problem in GT so it's not an issue that needs fixing for me. Just curious though, how do you test the change in datalogger?

I've been jumping between PC sims and GT again for the last few days. Even with Ridox tune + all your FFB tricks, GT is still nowhere near the level of feel of older sims like LFS or GTR2. Assetto Corsa and Automobilista is on another level entirely. I think it's a lost cause to be honest. I'll have fun with Ridox tune until GTS release, then we'll see if PD have made any improvement worth playing.

Now, if you excuse me, I've got some cars to build

Initial D, do you have specs for the Final Stage SS Tureno ? It's been long time since I watched the show On the first page, I did have AE86, but it's Drift Bible replica May I suggest to build Ferrari F40, the GT3 cars like 458 Italia, Camaro, GTP BTCC Civic, and some low PP FWD like the Honda Fit RS

If only GT6 still has share feature, I would have put 5 cars on share rotation every week, so people can just borrow glitch it and drive :/

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Initial D, do you have specs for the Final Stage SS Tureno ? It's been long time since I watched the show On the first page, I did have AE86, but it's Drift Bible replica May I suggest to build Ferrari F40, the GT3 cars like 458 Italia, Camaro, GTP BTCC Civic, and some low PP FWD like the Honda Fit RS

If only GT6 still has share feature, I would have put 5 cars on share rotation every week, so people can just borrow glitch it and drive :/

Initial D is a bit worse than Wangan Midnight when it comes to exact specs. The early races gives out spec sheets but later on things become really vague

From what I know:
4AGE Group A engine - detuned for road use to around 250 HP (11,000 rpm revlimit)
Weight reduction - carbon hood & lights, lighter rear hatch window
Roll cage
Heavier clutch - to cope with extra power
Suspension - specs secret tuned by Bunta (if you look at the series the car has little body roll in corners, but still has enough movement to do gutter drop/hairpin jump)
LSD - tuned so the car behaves more like "4WD" (basically can do a 4 wheel drift at full throttle)
Short ratio gears - tuned specifically for Akina's hairpins
Tires - no specific specs given, but considering Takumi drives it all season and it can withstand drift abuse everyday for the whole year, I assume it's a pretty hard compound/all season tyres (just go with CS)
Rims - black RS Watanabe
And of course cup holder and tofu trays in the back - may I suggest adding 10kg ballast at +50 position to simulate the tofu (in addition to the ballast required to get the weight distribution correct)

And yeah I tried the Drift Bible 86. It's good fun, but needs more POWAH

A couple of those are on my list, just wait Half the fun with these tunes is buying and setting it up yourself. I learn a lot just looking at your settings and how you approach each car 👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Initial D is a bit worse than Wangan Midnight when it comes to exact specs. The early races gives out spec sheets but later on things become really vague

From what I know:
4AGE Group A engine - detuned for road use to around 250 HP (11,000 rpm revlimit)
Weight reduction - carbon hood & lights, lighter rear hatch window
Roll cage
Heavier clutch - to cope with extra power
Suspension - specs secret tuned by Bunta (if you look at the series the car has little body roll in corners, but still has enough movement to do gutter drop/hairpin jump)
LSD - tuned so the car behaves more like "4WD" (basically can do a 4 wheel drift at full throttle)
Short ratio gears - tuned specifically for Akina's hairpins
Tires - no specific specs given, but considering Takumi drives it all season and it can withstand drift abuse everyday for the whole year, I assume it's a pretty hard compound/all season tyres (just go with CS)
Rims - black RS Watanabe
And of course cup holder and tofu trays in the back - may I suggest adding 10kg ballast at +50 position to simulate the tofu (in addition to the ballast required to get the weight distribution correct)

And yeah I tried the Drift Bible 86. It's good fun, but needs more POWAH

A couple of those are on my list, just wait Half the fun with these tunes is buying and setting it up yourself. I learn a lot just looking at your settings and how you approach each car 👍

Sounds like the Shuichi Shigeno Trueno is the only car of choice

 

[Pete05]

Initial D is a bit worse than Wangan Midnight when it comes to exact specs. The early races gives out spec sheets but later on things become really vague

From what I know:
4AGE Group A engine - detuned for road use to around 250 HP (11,000 rpm revlimit)
Weight reduction - carbon hood & lights, lighter rear hatch window
Roll cage
Heavier clutch - to cope with extra power
Suspension - specs secret tuned by Bunta (if you look at the series the car has little body roll in corners, but still has enough movement to do gutter drop/hairpin jump)
LSD - tuned so the car behaves more like "4WD" (basically can do a 4 wheel drift at full throttle)
Short ratio gears - tuned specifically for Akina's hairpins
Tires - no specific specs given, but considering Takumi drives it all season and it can withstand drift abuse everyday for the whole year, I assume it's a pretty hard compound/all season tyres (just go with CS)
Rims - black RS Watanabe
And of course cup holder and tofu trays in the back - may I suggest adding 10kg ballast at +50 position to simulate the tofu (in addition to the ballast required to get the weight distribution correct)

And yeah I tried the Drift Bible 86. It's good fun, but needs more POWAH

A couple of those are on my list, just wait Half the fun with these tunes is buying and setting it up yourself. I learn a lot just looking at your settings and how you approach each car 👍

Even the best 4AGE Group A engines 'only' produced 190 - 200 BHP.

Sounds like the Shuichi Shigeno Trueno is the only car of choice

You're right. This car is what's needed 👍

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Even the best 4AGE Group A engines 'only' produced 190 - 200 BHP.

You're right. This car is what's needed 👍

ID wiki says 240 HP. In any case, for animu purposes let's suspend reality a bit here and have fun The SS Trueno can certainly reach that power in game so maybe Ridox can release a realistic tune with 200 HP, and an anime special tune with the magical 250 HP?

http://initiald.wikia.com/wiki/Toyota_AE86

On that note, I really miss this car from GT2. Used to beat JGTC Skylines and Supras with it (keep in mind those cars had unrealistic 700 HP figures back in GT2 ). Good times.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

NISSAN GTR LM NISMO '15

Special Build NISMO GTR LM
Sports Hard to Racing Hard​

CAR : NISSAN GTR LM NISMO '15
Tire : Sports Hard to Racing Hard

Specs BASE
Horsepower: 604 HP / 612 PS at 5400 RPM
Torque : 691.2 ft-lb at 4500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 950 kg
Ballast : 70 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 66 / 34
Performance Points: 645


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Stock


Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit




Suspension - NISMO Custom Tuned Springs/Damper

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 55 80
Spring Rate: 36.72 14.99
Dampers (Compression): 2 4
Dampers (Extension): 10 10
Anti-Roll Bars: 1 7
Camber Angle: 0.5 0.5
Toe Angle: -0.44 0.87 ( OPTIONAL zero toe to loose the car or front 0.00 and rear -0.44 to -0.87 )




STOCK GEARBOX - FIXED



LSD - Mechanical NISMO LSD
Initial Torque : 18
Acceleration Sensitivity: 25
Braking Sensitivity: 5



AERO
FRONT/REAR = 1491 / 1082 ( FIXED )



Brake Balance:
3/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 3/8 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

Tuned to be driveable on SH to RH tire with original stock toe and same camber both axle. To loosen up the car, simply remove toe ( to zero ) or for more rear rotation, use rear negative toe ( out ).

This car is manic, do not apply throttle like on/off button, unless it's straight and on racing tires. Slow in fast out, point and shoot driving is recommended.

When tested at Midfield on SH tire, able to lap in low 1:08s replay of the lap included.

Enjoy the crazy FF LM car from NISMO

 

[OdeFinn]

Higher CCS just feels a teeny tiny bit more direct to me. In any case, it's not groundbreaking and I cannot say 100% that it's not placebo effect in my head.

We're just having different level of senses, but it won't hurt to leave it on i.e. 6.

Powersteering after I tried again is also quite similar on/off. The only big difference is during quick movements such as countersteering, where power steering makes the wheel go light. It's quite unnerving to suddenly lose all feedback So I think I'll stick to powersteering off. Maybe I lose a bit of detail, but it's not worth the large loss of feedback when countersteering.

Here comes more like style on case, I'm "never" turning wheel on game or in real-life with speed what exceeds slip angle on tires, if making such mistake I'll correct steer angle quickly back into roll/slip angle of tires. Because of that I'm not facing that losing all feedback situation.

Again, I don't feel any improvement in deadzone with that trick. If anything it makes it worse after I switch 900-670-900 In any case, I never felt deadzone to be a problem in GT so it's not an issue that needs fixing for me. Just curious though, how do you test the change in datalogger?

Mark and/or limit wheel 15° turn, go to track and wave car with that ±15° range, save fastest and then do same with tweak applied, compare steering angle on datalogger and you'll find several degree difference.

I've been jumping between PC sims and GT again for the last few days. Even with Ridox tune + all your FFB tricks, GT is still nowhere near the level of feel of older sims like LFS or GTR2. Assetto Corsa and Automobilista is on another level entirely. I think it's a lost cause to be honest. I'll have fun with Ridox tune until GTS release, then we'll see if PD have made any improvement worth playing.

Now, if you excuse me, I've got some cars to build

Yep, even standard settings on rFactor (1) from Logitech supplied CD is awesome, clear and no smog on feedback.
Good excuse to move on