RKM Motorsport - Tuned Tuners - May '13

Pah, useless! :sly: don't worry, we all still love you whether you put paint names or not :D

I wonder after the MP4 LM, will anyone even go near the SLR?

You're just tempting me, aren't you? :dopey: But it's 3AM over here, my hands are a bit shaky and I'm all over the place trying to get my 450PP roadster to do what I want it to do…Ah well, I need to loosen up. Gimme a sec :D
 
Just got to nip in and go offtopic. Or well, back to a 19 hour old topic.
The NSX 3rd Anniversary. It just keeps surprising me. After dumping it to 502PP by removing the bolt-on power last night, it felt fast enough to do 4 Hours of Nürburgring on Sports Softs. So I did.
I reckoned I could probably go as low as 9:00 on the Type-V layout, but much to my astonishment, it pulled off an 8:57.620 on lap 7.
Then on lap 13, it improved that to 8:57.011, and being even more surprised, it immediately dumped that to 8:56.420.

Considering I'm aiming for 9:06 consistently on hot laps, this car is just too fast for this race! I'm going to need to go lower on the PP, but as far as I can see, the only thing I can do is go without Engine Tuning stage 1, and that's not going to give a lot.
So a quick question: If I were to add ballast, where should I put it? Considering the suspension is set up for the current weight distribution, logic dictates it should be in position 0, but I'm honestly rather clueless. And just how much added weight can a suspension take before it breaks?
 
Onboy123
You're just tempting me, aren't you? :dopey: But it's 3AM over here, my hands are a bit shaky and I'm all over the place trying to get my 450PP roadster to do what I want it to do…Ah well, I need to loosen up. Gimme a sec :D

YES! DO ET NAO

It's not as rip-your-spleen-out insane as the MP4...
 
your pretty right i'd put it at the 0 mark, but really i wouldnt add any weight due suspension geometry and stuff like that, but if you wanted to change the way it handles move it forward for a bit of rear action and rear for back end grip...i think
 
Just got to nip in and go offtopic. Or well, back to a 19 hour old topic.
The NSX 3rd Anniversary. It just keeps surprising me. After dumping it to 502PP by removing the bolt-on power last night, it felt fast enough to do 4 Hours of Nürburgring on Sports Softs. So I did.
I reckoned I could probably go as low as 9:00 on the Type-V layout, but much to my astonishment, it pulled off an 8:57.620 on lap 7.
Then on lap 13, it improved that to 8:57.011, and being even more surprised, it immediately dumped that to 8:56.420.

Considering I'm aiming for 9:06 consistently on hot laps, this car is just too fast for this race! I'm going to need to go lower on the PP, but as far as I can see, the only thing I can do is go without Engine Tuning stage 1, and that's not going to give a lot.
So a quick question: If I were to add ballast, where should I put it? Considering the suspension is set up for the current weight distribution, logic dictates it should be in position 0, but I'm honestly rather clueless. And just how much added weight can a suspension take before it breaks?
I'd say maybe 50kg slightly to the rear. Before adding weight, try reducing downforce by a few clicks though. It's far more effective at lowering PP and it won't affect the car as negatively.
 
Hey Roj, I just noticed you have the 500PP NSX-R... Which is better for Spa and Nurburgring, the Sidewinder or the 3rd Anniversary (detuned)?
 
Mini Review- Mclaren/Merecedes SLR LM

Again, I'm stuck. Though for entirely the opposite reasons. Compared to the eye-swiveling lunacy and sideway MP4 LM, this SLR is surpisingly tame. I was expecting it to rip the tyres to shreds in the typical AMG manner while lapping the track with Mclaren precision and speed. But it seems to only do sheer, mind bending speed. It'll still be gripping to the track when the MP4 LM has let go and had a stab at killing the driver, and at its lairiest, the SLR still seems to refuse to play and just give you some sensible understeer. I blame that wing. Yes, downforce is needed, but I think 45 is still a tad too much.

Don't get me wrong though, this isn't just another typical high performance Merc with a volcano shoved up the front and no grip in the tyres. It is fantastically sharp and easy to drive, even when it does kick its tail out, it won't snap around and bite. It's very safe, there's no power oversteer that has almost defined cars like this. My only slight complaint is that the brakes need to be stronger still and 1st is too short for a clean launch. The other slight issue is that the steering seems…numb, I think is the word. I don't feel confident in this. I know it has the abilities to keep up with the MP4 LM, but I just can't push it in the corners hard enough to keep up. And because of the understeer and slight lack of confidence, it ends up being 2 seconds down on the MP4.

To sum up then, this SLR is actually quite a pleasant drive. The tune hasn't thrown away the SLR's GT side, it's still a very user-friendly thing to drive, but it's become much more potent around bends and on the track. Given the choice though, I'd take the axe murderer. I'd take the MP4.
 
Onboy123
Mini Review- Mclaren/Merecedes SLR LM

Again, I'm stuck. Though for entirely the opposite reasons. Compared to the eye-swiveling lunacy and sideway MP4 LM, this SLR is surpisingly tame. I was expecting it to rip the tyres to shreds in the typical AMG manner while lapping the track with Mclaren precision and speed. But it seems to only do sheer, mind bending speed. It'll still be gripping to the track when the MP4 LM has let go and had a stab at killing the driver, and at its lairiest, the SLR still seems to refuse to play and just give you some sensible understeer. I blame that wing. Yes, downforce is needed, but I think 45 is still a tad too much.

Don't get me wrong though, this isn't just another typical high performance Merc with a volcano shoved up the front and no grip in the tyres. It is fantastically sharp and easy to drive, even when it does kick its tail out, it won't snap around and bite. It's very safe, there's no power oversteer that has almost defined cars like this. My only slight complaint is that the brakes need to be stronger still and 1st is too short for a clean launch. The other slight issue is that the steering seems…numb, I think is the word. I don't feel confident in this. I know it has the abilities to keep up with the MP4 LM, but I just can't push it in the corners hard enough to keep up. And because of the understeer and slight lack of confidence, it ends up being 2 seconds down on the MP4.

To sum up then, this SLR is actually quite a pleasant drive. The tune hasn't thrown away the SLR's GT side, it's still a very user-friendly thing to drive, but it's become much more potent around bends and on the track. Given the choice though, I'd take the axe murderer. I'd take the MP4.

Mission accomplished! And, erm...I didn't forget the spoiler hadn't been adjusted from default :dopey: I daresay it can take a bit less downforce and an LSD tweak still :D
 
Roj, did you forget to write down the weight reductions on the G37? I know for a fact it doesn't weigh 1266 kg stock...
 
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OFF TOPIC but who cares ? :lol:

I :lol: about everyone discussion who's FF, FR, MR, all that. And I just wonder where I fit since I'm a new member...

And Dragonthing, tomorrow I will try your SLR. I'm just too tired downloading anime to turn on my PS3 (yes I'm lazy).

BACK ON TOPIC
 
@ Roj: I forgot to mention the present C63 AMG I'm using is not equipped with chassis rigidity. The previous one I had was equipped with it (without the park bench) and it had massive understeer. I'm assuming cars not equipped with chassis rigidity and a rear wing will handle better than those equipped with a chassis rigidity sans a rear wing. I might be on to something here...:D

The C63 is 1 of my favorites in-game. I plan to rebuild RJ's M5 and RS6 Avant without the chassis rigidity and confirm my suspicions because my prior builds with both cars were quite the understeerers with chassis rigidity but without a rear wing.

I'll report back to you, Woj. :)
 
And I just wonder where I fit since I'm a new member...

It does make a good off-topic discussion piece. :lol:

I'd rank you as an FR, seeing as you're more than active enough to avoid FF. Not lairy enough for MR, which is good. Although I haven't seen the tech to make you 4WD yet :lol: I should make a thread on this totally.
 
C-ZETA
It does make a good off-topic discussion piece. :lol:

I'd rank you as an FR, seeing as you're more than active enough to avoid FF. Not lairy enough for MR, which is good. Although I haven't seen the tech to make you 4WD yet :lol: I should make a thread on this totally.

Do et :D and I wonder where I would fit in here...
 
Do et :D and I wonder where I would fit in here...

Tough to choose between FR and 4WD IMO. Not saying you aren't knowledgable, just I don't know if you're knowledgable enough :sly: Maybe like Famine you could be a 10/90 4WD car. :lol: Maybe 20/80 or something like that :lol:
 
It does make a good off-topic discussion piece. :lol:

I'd rank you as an FR, seeing as you're more than active enough to avoid FF. Not lairy enough for MR, which is good. Although I haven't seen the tech to make you 4WD yet :lol: I should make a thread on this totally.
What does being active have to do with your type? And according to your breakdown I should be a MR since my cars tend to be a bit :crazy::lol:
 
What does being active have to do with your type? And according to your breakdown I should be a MR since my cars tend to be a bit :crazy::lol:

The less you post (ie the more 'silent' you are), the more FF you are since you would tend to be less powerful. And yes, I would call you an MR :lol:

Jeez, I could be a psychologist at this rate. :lol:
 
tough to choose between fr and 4wd imo. Not saying you aren't knowledgable, just i don't know if you're knowledgable enough :sly: Maybe like famine you could be a 10/90 4wd car. :lol: Maybe 20/80 or something like that :lol:

M4WD :D

caps
 
M4WD :D

caps

Ah yes, that reminds me. If you're a 4WD how active you are also tends to determine your engine position. Torque distribution is mainly done by how knowledgeable said person is, with more knowledge = less rear more front.

I sound really confusing ATM. :lol:
 
Ah yes, that reminds me. If you're a 4WD how active you are also tends to determine your engine position. Torque distribution is mainly done by how knowledgeable said person is, with more knowledge = less rear more front.

I sound really confusing ATM. :lol:
Or rather, engine position = attitude, torque distribution = knowledge. :dopey:

And I'm really drowsy…dad invited me to drink something that breaks the AUP.
 
It does make a good off-topic discussion piece. :lol:

I'd rank you as an FR, seeing as you're more than active enough to avoid FF. Not lairy enough for MR, which is good. Although I haven't seen the tech to make you 4WD yet :lol: I should make a thread on this totally.

How about me?

And I'm really drowsy…dad invited me to drink something that breaks the AUP.

Tequila Mari! Or Mari-garitas! :dopey:
 
Or rather, engine position = attitude, torque distribution = knowledge. :dopey:

And I'm really drowsy…dad invited me to drink something that breaks the AUP.

I've actually found out that the way to work out what kind of drive you are works through GTP.

< 1 post a day - FF
1-9.99 post a day - FR (which'll also be the most common)
10-19.99 post a day - MR
20 or > post a day - RR (which'll also be the least common)

If you want 4WD status then you will need at least 60 threads of any sort, to make the calculation for your torque distribution work.

Take the number of threads you have then take away 50, if necessary round to the nearest 5 (if you get a number ending in 3, 4, 6 or 7 round to 5, anything else round to a 0). The reason I do that is because GT5 will always set the torque values to the nearest 5 (discovered while tuning my touge Delta). This will give you your front torque value (it won't work below 60 threads BTW).

In my case, I have 87 threads so I take away 50 to get 37 which I round down to 35. To work out the engine position use the same concept as above with 0-9.99 posts meaning front engine, 10-19.99 for mid engine and 20 or > for rear engine.

This makes me a 35/65 F4WD type.

Even Praiano would be confused by that, I swear. :lol:

And we have now gone very off topic. :lol:

How about me?

MR - just.
 
I've actually found out that the way to work out what kind of drive you are works through GTP.

< 1 post a day - FF
1-9.99 post a day - FR (which'll also be the most common)
10-19.99 post a day - MR
20 or > post a day - RR (which'll also be the least common)

If you want 4WD status then you will need at least 60 threads of any sort, to make the calculation for your torque distribution work.

Take the number of threads you have then take away 50, if necessary round to the nearest 5 (if you get a number ending in 3, 4, 6 or 7 round to 5, anything else round to a 0). The reason I do that is because GT5 will always set the torque values to the nearest 5 (discovered while tuning my touge Delta). This will give you your front torque value (it won't work below 60 threads BTW).

In my case, I have 87 threads so I take away 50 to get 37 which I round down to 35. To work out the engine position use the same concept as above with 0-9.99 posts meaning front engine, 10-19.99 for mid engine and 20 or > for rear engine.

This makes me a 35/65 F4WD type.

Even Praiano would be confused by that, I swear. :lol:

And we have now gone very off topic. :lol:

&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;da fack&#8230;

Anyway&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;if your first bit is true, that means I'm MR! :D

And Andre isn't MR, he's with me as MR/RR but he's like the Ruf CTR2 whereas I'm the BTR :lol:
 
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