Some thoughts on FFB sensitivity

[PakHo0517]

Hello all,

Recently I have been involved in some local GT Sport championship,
and in order to gain the last few tenths,
I have been looking into ffb settings. (I know I suppose to just practice more instead)

I saw many ppl claim they use "10" for the sensitivity (TRL_Lightning, and many more fast drivers),
and I did a few tests on tracks like Suzuka, Interlagos, Bathurst, etc.

And here is the conclusion I found.

I believe the FFB Torque changes the attitude of Y-axis,
where as the FFB Sen changes the path of the X-Y relationships.

Which in my opinion it makes senses since:
1. Try driving on Suzuka sector 1, with FFB sen 10, it is so hard to make precise left right left transition, compared to 5 or 1 sen
2. Try driving on Interlagos with FFB sen 1, the road noise are more pronounced

Can someone point out whether I am right on this one?

Cheers,
T0i1ettPapeRR

 

[Majorwolf72]

As far as I know Lightning is driving a 9. But with what you can setup on a Fanatec wheel the ingame settings really only provide the basis.

So your assumptions may be accurate for drivers who can not fine tune with their wheel, but I couldn’t confirm or deny. With a Fanatec it‘s a different world setting wise altogether.

So you cant compare „Lightning is driving a 9“ to a G29 player driving a 9.

 

[ARTAsean]

I've been using 2 since the start of GT Sport and I've not yet seen one compelling argument as to why I should go more (or less.)

Not only that, I also haven't seen one single person who I believe has a good understanding of what FFB sens even is. Theories are either demonstratably wrong, or, conflict with GT's in-game description.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I always thought FFB sensitivity is a road surface amplifier, until someone else here made a good point that its a damper setting, but reversed (smaller number = higher damper = wheel less shaky on straights but trade off with loss of smaller FFB details). Thinking of it this way, the in game description and feeling makes perfect sense. Of course, you need a good wheel to be able to feel it because the difference between 1 and 10 is still pretty small anyway. With my G25 (using Ricmotech adapter) I can't really feel any difference so I just left it at 10 for maximum FFB detail. With my T-GT, initially I was using 1 because the wheel wanders too much around the centre at 10, until I learned to lower the FFB torque and increase controller sensitivity (which changes linearity) to compensate for it.

So to sum up:
FFB Torque = strength of forces
FFB Sensitivity = "inverse damper" (low number = wheel more stable on straights but less detail)
Controller Sensitivity = linearity (smaller effect than using Dualshock 4 however)

Knowing all that, my method of tuning FFB now is as follows:
- Start with FFBT 1, FFBS 10, CS 0 (this will give weakest but purest FFB)
- If your wheel wanders too much down the straight progressively lower FFBS until comfortable (ideally you want this number as high as possible so you don't lose too much detail in FFB)
- Next start increasing FFBT to give you the resistance you prefer (this is highly personal but I recommend using no higher than 4 otherwise your FFB will start clipping and you also lose detail)
- Finally, play around with CS to fine tune FFB and steering "directness" around centre (e.g. I like an aggressive turn in so I use CS 7, if you want a smoother & more accurate use lower)

My personal settings:
G25 (also applicable to G27/29): FFBT 4 (3 for drifting), FFBS 10, CS 0
T-GT: FFBT 2 (1 for drifting), FFBS 10, CS 7
For twitchy cars (e.g. kart, Red Bull Jr, Formula cars): FFBT 2, FFBS 1, CS -2

 

[kilesa4568]

Controller Sensitivity = linearity (smaller effect than using Dualshock 4 however)

From the GTS manual:

・Controller Steering Sensitivity
Adjust the steering speed and response speed of the front tires for your wireless controller. Lower values produce slower response times, which allows smoother steering. Higher values makes the tires' response faster and more sensitive.

I can't say I noticed any difference between -2 and 7 on a wheel compared to the radical difference on a pad. Has to be a placebo if you feel the difference.

 

[_ApexPredator]

I can't say I noticed any difference between -2 and 7 on a wheel compared to the radical difference on a pad. Has to be a placebo if you feel the difference.

Try using the Racing Kart, all aids off (including ABS), and you can definitely feel a difference between those values; it's certainly not placebo (on the TGT at least).
For me that particular setting is altering the "volume" of the vibrations I feel through the rim, even in a straight line.

 

[kilesa4568]

Completely forgot to reply, sorry.

In fairness, my testing was done when I first got the wheel (zero skill) so I'll try messing with that setting again today. Are you using a G29 too?

 

[LeGeNd-1]

From the GTS manual:



I can't say I noticed any difference between -2 and 7 on a wheel compared to the radical difference on a pad. Has to be a placebo if you feel the difference.

Yes I'm well aware the description only states it applies to DS4, and up until GT6 I used to think so too. But with GTS and a much better wheel (T-GT) I can safely say it does have an effect, albeit a small one and not as apparent as on DS4. It's also more apparent if you use certain cars with twitchy steering (like karts, Merc F1 or RB Standard).

If you use a G29 and are new to using the wheel then it's probably not worth your time tinkering with it yet. The Logitech wheels have a notorious deadzone around the center which is where this setting is mostly apparent, so the effect you feel will be even less.

 

[kilesa4568]

I'm nearly a year into wheel use so I'll test it again. As soon as I get the chance to anyway.👍

 

[Rexracer702]

I'm nearly a year into wheel use so I'll test it again. As soon as I get the chance to anyway.👍

I will be following this. I've only had the PS4 and my G29 for about a month, and I assumed that the controller seting didn't affect the wheel. If it does, I will definitely check it out.

 

[kilesa4568]

A quick run in the kart on -2 and 7 felt exactly the same to me in the corners. Just as twitchy but with its soft lock being so acute, possibly not the right way to test it. Jumped on to Sarthe (no chicane) so I could spend time checking out the red dot steering indicator in the HUD. Used the X-Bow, Gr3 and 4 Porsches and wobbled the steering a couple of inches from the straight ahead on Mulsanne. No noticeable difference with any sensitivity setting. What you see from the red dot is representative of steering inputs whatever the setting is.

All I can say is that if it doesn't affect how the car handles for me, there's no need to keep testing it.

I dunno. Maybe the T-GT's proprietary feature set can take advantage of it while the G29 can't. As you say the G29's dead zone is quite pronounced and could be masking it but either way, it's not applicable to me.

 

[_ApexPredator]

Did you make sure to have ABS turned off as well when you tested the kart, man? It's crucial everything is off otherwise the assists muddy the feedback. Anyway it's not so much any difference to the handling that you're looking for, it's the amount of & strength of the rumble that comes through the rim, I find.
*Edit*
Another thing to add is that increasing the bottom setting (force feedback sensitivity) will heighten any adjustments you make to the top one (controller steering sensitivity), or vice-versa.

After about a year of trial & error, in the kart I run:
5
1
2

Try it, get a feel, then try, for example:
7
1
5

You should feel the wheel is a lot heavier/stiffer, and there's a much stronger "rumble" even in a straight line.
Test on a track like Tsukuba too, the smooth surface of most fantasy tracks such as Dragon Trail probably won't aid your testing much.
I think it could well be as you say, that the T-GT is the difference maker here, but still intrigued as to how you get on

 

[kilesa4568]

Don't you get that extra 'rumble' through the T-GT's transducer kicking in though? From what I've read, the feedback kicks in quicker than any other consumer wheel out there (in GTS mode) while the G29 has a slight delay while everything tightens up to provide the required feedback. Maybe that hides the sensitivity's margin between wheels?

Maybe the kart's too extreme for me to test with, seeing as most of the steering is done through the throttle but as I completely forgot to turn the ABS off, I'll give it another shot.

As a disclaimer, I might be too old and slow to spot the difference.

Edit: Tested it and nope. It still felt the same to me.

 

[Shottah072]

I always thought FFB sensitivity is a road surface amplifier, until someone else here made a good point that its a damper setting, but reversed (smaller number = higher damper = wheel less shaky on straights but trade off with loss of smaller FFB details).

Hi there, that was me i believe who mentioned this in an earlier FFB thread where this subject came up

Yes, the FFB sensitivity is a (reversed) damper setting. Damping controls how smooth or spikey the FFB output is. I found a nice picture that illustrates perfectly what damping does. In this picture FFB output to the wheel is displayed in a graph. The top graph is zero damping. The lowest graph is max damping. Keep in mind that in GTS it is reversed so the top graph is FFB Sensitivity 10 and the lowest graph would be FFB Sensitivity 0.

As you can see, the lowest amount of damping gives the most raw and detailed FFB output and the more damping you add the more smooth but less detailed the FFB output gets. Now as a driver you want to be able to feel as much of what is going on with the car as possible. Thats why the vast majority of fast or experienced sim racers use as little damping as possible. In GTS this means keeping FFB sensitivity at 8-10.

Damping is a setting found in nearly every race sim/game. Sometimes its called different (FFB smoothing or in GTS case FFB sensitivity etc) but how it affects the FFB and your experience stays the same.

I've been using 2 since the start of GT Sport and I've not yet seen one compelling argument as to why I should go more (or less.)

Not only that, I also haven't seen one single person who I believe has a good understanding of what FFB sens even is. Theories are either demonstratably wrong, or, conflict with GT's in-game description.

I have setup FFB in many many games, both console and PC, and have been using FFB wheels for nearly a decade. So i hope this will be enough to convince you.

And to add to this all, by far the biggest and most common mistake concerning FFB allot of new or uninformed players make is using to much strength. Especially with these consumer wheels the majority of us use (Fanatec, Thrustmaster, Logitech). These wheels have a set amount of maximum force (Nm) they can deliver. When you put force or strength settings to high your wheel delivers its maximum force way to early and since there is no difference in FFB beyond that point you will lose all detail/feel beyond that point. This is called FFB clipping. Ideally you want to set it up so your wheel only reaches max force under the most stressful moments (like aggressively clipping an apex) and never for extended periods of time, like for example an entire corner.

 

[PakHo0517]

Hi there, that was me i believe who mentioned this in an earlier FFB thread where this subject came up

Yes, the FFB sensitivity is a (reversed) damper setting. Damping controls how smooth or spikey the FFB output is. I found a nice picture that illustrates perfectly what damping does. In this picture FFB output to the wheel is displayed in a graph. The top graph is zero damping. The lowest graph is max damping. Keep in mind that in GTS it is reversed so the top graph is FFB Sensitivity 10 and the lowest graph would be FFB Sensitivity 0.

View attachment 790593

As you can see, the lowest amount of damping gives the most raw and detailed FFB output and the more damping you add the more smooth but less detailed the FFB output gets. Now as a driver you want to be able to feel as much of what is going on with the car as possible. Thats why the vast majority of fast or experienced sim racers use as little damping as possible. In GTS this means keeping FFB sensitivity at 8-10.

Damping is a setting found in nearly every race sim/game. Sometimes its called different (FFB smoothing or in GTS case FFB sensitivity etc) but how it affects the FFB and your experience stays the same.



I have setup FFB in many many games, both console and PC, and have been using FFB wheels for nearly a decade. So i hope this will be enough to convince you.

And to add to this all, by far the biggest and most common mistake concerning FFB allot of new or uninformed players make is using to much strength. Especially with these consumer wheels the majority of us use (Fanatec, Thrustmaster, Logitech). These wheels have a set amount of maximum force (Nm) they can deliver. When you put force or strength settings to high your wheel delivers its maximum force way to early and since there is no difference in FFB beyond that point you will lose all detail/feel beyond that point. This is called FFB clipping. Ideally you want to set it up so your wheel only reaches max force under the most stressful moments (like aggressively clipping an apex) and never for extended periods of time, like for example an entire corner.

The explanation is well and clear, however if you drive a Gt3 car (eg R8 Audi) on the straight line after the last turn in Interlagos, you can feel more road surface with ffb T5 S1 than ffb T5 S5, and ffb T5 S5 can feel more than ffb T5 S10.... So I am not saying your assumption is incorrect but could it be vice versa?

Cheers

 

[Shottah072]

The explanation is well and clear, however if you drive a Gt3 car (eg R8 Audi) on the straight line after the last turn in Interlagos, you can feel more road surface with ffb T5 S1 than ffb T5 S5, and ffb T5 S5 can feel more than ffb T5 S10.... So I am not saying your assumption is incorrect but could it be vice versa?

Cheers

No, its 100% definitely not vice versa. Not sure why you would experience what you are describing, it should be the opposite. What wheel do you use ? Most consumer wheels FFB T5 will cause clipping making you loose detail so it could be that. I run 3 or 4 on T300 wich has about 3.9 Nm of maximum force. A G29 for instance has maximum of about 2.2 Nm and FFB T5 on that will definitely have clipping.

 

[kilesa4568]

The clipping starts at torque 3 on a G29 and the feedback takes a pretty big hit, even with that low a setting. I settled on 2-10 very early on. 2 lets you feel everything from a curb while 3 halves it.

Any thoughts on the top sensitivity setting and if it has an effect? To be honest with you, I can't spot a difference but I'm still relatively new (11 months) to wheels.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

A quick run in the kart on -2 and 7 felt exactly the same to me in the corners. Just as twitchy but with its soft lock being so acute, possibly not the right way to test it. Jumped on to Sarthe (no chicane) so I could spend time checking out the red dot steering indicator in the HUD. Used the X-Bow, Gr3 and 4 Porsches and wobbled the steering a couple of inches from the straight ahead on Mulsanne. No noticeable difference with any sensitivity setting. What you see from the red dot is representative of steering inputs whatever the setting is.

All I can say is that if it doesn't affect how the car handles for me, there's no need to keep testing it.

I dunno. Maybe the T-GT's proprietary feature set can take advantage of it while the G29 can't. As you say the G29's dead zone is quite pronounced and could be masking it but either way, it's not applicable to me.

Don't you get that extra 'rumble' through the T-GT's transducer kicking in though? From what I've read, the feedback kicks in quicker than any other consumer wheel out there (in GTS mode) while the G29 has a slight delay while everything tightens up to provide the required feedback. Maybe that hides the sensitivity's margin between wheels?

Maybe the kart's too extreme for me to test with, seeing as most of the steering is done through the throttle but as I completely forgot to turn the ABS off, I'll give it another shot.

As a disclaimer, I might be too old and slow to spot the difference.

Edit: Tested it and nope. It still felt the same to me.

One year is early times. I don't know your skill level but if you ask me one year after having my G25 if I could spot the difference probably I'd say no as well.

As I said we are not talking huge differences. It's very subtle, and it can be hard to feel unless you specifically know what you're looking for. It's one of those things that makes sense when you know it, but otherwise very difficult to describe in words. Also zig zagging down the straights is probably not the best way to test it. If you do a lot of grinding for credits with the same car again and again at Blue Moon for example, using Controller Sensitivity 0, and one day you switch it to 7, you will notice a difference. It won't manifest in a laptime difference, but you will notice a difference in the car's turn in response into the corner, because you're so used to it behaving a certain way. So it's something you don't change for a laptime gain, but maybe just to make the car that little more comfortable to drive and makes you more consistent over a long stint.

I haven't personally tried a G29 but I have tried the G27 which has pretty much the same internals, and I can imagine any slight effect changing CSS is masked by the deadzone. If you don't notice any difference, then just leave it for now but it's something to keep in mind if you ever upgrade to a better wheel.

The T-GT extra rumble is really not that special IMHO. I have mine turned off (it's linked to the controller vibration setting in options). It's basically a constant rumble like running over kerbs constantly (but less "spiky"), but doesn't add any useful FFB info.

Hi there, that was me i believe who mentioned this in an earlier FFB thread where this subject came up

Yes, the FFB sensitivity is a (reversed) damper setting. Damping controls how smooth or spikey the FFB output is. I found a nice picture that illustrates perfectly what damping does. In this picture FFB output to the wheel is displayed in a graph. The top graph is zero damping. The lowest graph is max damping. Keep in mind that in GTS it is reversed so the top graph is FFB Sensitivity 10 and the lowest graph would be FFB Sensitivity 0.

View attachment 790593

As you can see, the lowest amount of damping gives the most raw and detailed FFB output and the more damping you add the more smooth but less detailed the FFB output gets. Now as a driver you want to be able to feel as much of what is going on with the car as possible. Thats why the vast majority of fast or experienced sim racers use as little damping as possible. In GTS this means keeping FFB sensitivity at 8-10.

Damping is a setting found in nearly every race sim/game. Sometimes its called different (FFB smoothing or in GTS case FFB sensitivity etc) but how it affects the FFB and your experience stays the same.



I have setup FFB in many many games, both console and PC, and have been using FFB wheels for nearly a decade. So i hope this will be enough to convince you.

And to add to this all, by far the biggest and most common mistake concerning FFB allot of new or uninformed players make is using to much strength. Especially with these consumer wheels the majority of us use (Fanatec, Thrustmaster, Logitech). These wheels have a set amount of maximum force (Nm) they can deliver. When you put force or strength settings to high your wheel delivers its maximum force way to early and since there is no difference in FFB beyond that point you will lose all detail/feel beyond that point. This is called FFB clipping. Ideally you want to set it up so your wheel only reaches max force under the most stressful moments (like aggressively clipping an apex) and never for extended periods of time, like for example an entire corner.

Thanks for chipping in. I'm sorry I didn't remember your name. I know it's a recent discussion we had but I was too lazy to dig up my old posts

FFB is a fascinating discussion and I do have experience tinkering with ISImotor/RealFeel notepads in the past, which goes wayyyy more in depth than GT's settings. I'm familiar with gain/damper/smoothing/linearity/latency/clipping and all such stuff. Problem is PD isn't very transparent with what each setting does sometimes (and I suspect a couple of paremeters are combined into one slider). Also their scaling for FFB Torque seems to be much more biased towards stronger forces compared to later games. I used to use FFBT 10 all the time in GT5/6 but in GTS 4 is plenty. I wish PD would include a clipping meter like PC sims so we can adjust properly, or include an auto calibration feature when you first start the game. As it stands GT FFB is mostly plug and play but some people could set it completely wrong and not have the same experience as us who know better.

I'll leave this excerpt from the "guru" of RealFeel and racing sim physics Niels Heusinkveld:

FFB discussions are a blend of informative, entertaining and most of all subjective!

Someone will talk about what they feel in sim X, what they lack in sim Y...
Someone else will say exactly the opposite.

I've been fortunate enough to work with F3 / GP2 drivers and sim engineers. Their drivers will have totally different opinions on the sim FFB feel despite driving the same car in real life. The strength driver 1 will say is real is totally different from driver 2. Even the feeling when driving results in 2 very different opinions.

It is *very* hard to isolate the feel of one component in the car when driving being hot, working against G forces, bouncing around...

Not to be negative towards us simracers but if pro drivers don't know what it should feel like, we stand no chance ourselves! http://www.racedepartment.com/styles/default/xenforo/clear.png Plus these pro drivers use high end direct drive wheels which only very few of us can afford.

One thing is sure though, the steering forces might have nothing to do with the front tire grip levels at all. Steering should mostly get lighter even before you've reached the maximum grip at the front. This effect is only small in GSCE at the moment.

The FFB in GSCE comes purely from physics, both the mechanical forces from 'jacking up the car' (in karts for an extreme example) and the tire forces pushing and pulling on the steering arms. The tire part of the feel is not perfect, this force doesn't drop off enough as slip angle increases. If anything though the FFB in GSCE is a better 'front grip indicator' than in real life.

But most of us have a G27, Thrustmaster or perhaps a Fanatec Clubsport wheel. These are increasingly good, but also quite different and in each case not quite powerful enough.

So we have:
- even pro drivers don't know what the real wheel feels like
- meaning that us simracers are probably no better...
- Most sim FFB wheels are limited in force, speed, FFB deadzone..

And you get pages of discussion on each sim on every forum about which is better..

Taken from http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/realfeel-settings-and-discussion.107251/page-2#post-2101592

 

[superwally]

The T-GT extra rumble is really not that special IMHO. I have mine turned off (it's linked to the controller vibration setting in options). It's basically a constant rumble like running over kerbs constantly (but less "spiky"), but doesn't add any useful FFB info.

I was wondering, when was the last time you turned the extra rumble back on? I've not been playing a lot lately, but subjectively I felt there was a change made when one of the updates came through that added to this affect. If I have time today I'll sit for a minute and try to describe in greater detail. I'd be interested in your feedback, as frequently the placebo affect is very real when it comes to FFB wheels and driving sims in general.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

I was wondering, when was the last time you turned the extra rumble back on? I've not been playing a lot lately, but subjectively I felt there was a change made when one of the updates came through that added to this affect. If I have time today I'll sit for a minute and try to describe in greater detail. I'd be interested in your feedback, as frequently the placebo affect is very real when it comes to FFB wheels and driving sims in general.

A long long time ago lol. Probably around Feb/March last year. Any testing I do now is going to be inaccurate I'm afraid as I haven't felt the DFB forces in a long time, so my mind wouldn't remember if there's any subtle change. I'll give it a crack tomorrow though and tell you if I notice anything signiicant.

The weird placebo effect for me comes from the GT/Other switch. Technically having it in GT Mode and turning DFB off should give the same FFB as Other Mode, but I swear it's less detailed when in Other Mode. This is why I always switch when playing GT, despite the wheel and buttons (yes including the rotary dials) working perfectly fine in Other.

 

[Shottah072]

One year is early times. I don't know your skill level but if you ask me one year after having my G25 if I could spot the difference probably I'd say no as well.

As I said we are not talking huge differences. It's very subtle, and it can be hard to feel unless you specifically know what you're looking for. It's one of those things that makes sense when you know it, but otherwise very difficult to describe in words. Also zig zagging down the straights is probably not the best way to test it. If you do a lot of grinding for credits with the same car again and again at Blue Moon for example, using Controller Sensitivity 0, and one day you switch it to 7, you will notice a difference. It won't manifest in a laptime difference, but you will notice a difference in the car's turn in response into the corner, because you're so used to it behaving a certain way. So it's something you don't change for a laptime gain, but maybe just to make the car that little more comfortable to drive and makes you more consistent over a long stint.

I haven't personally tried a G29 but I have tried the G27 which has pretty much the same internals, and I can imagine any slight effect changing CSS is masked by the deadzone. If you don't notice any difference, then just leave it for now but it's something to keep in mind if you ever upgrade to a better wheel.

The T-GT extra rumble is really not that special IMHO. I have mine turned off (it's linked to the controller vibration setting in options). It's basically a constant rumble like running over kerbs constantly (but less "spiky"), but doesn't add any useful FFB info.



Thanks for chipping in. I'm sorry I didn't remember your name. I know it's a recent discussion we had but I was too lazy to dig up my old posts

FFB is a fascinating discussion and I do have experience tinkering with ISImotor/RealFeel notepads in the past, which goes wayyyy more in depth than GT's settings. I'm familiar with gain/damper/smoothing/linearity/latency/clipping and all such stuff. Problem is PD isn't very transparent with what each setting does sometimes (and I suspect a couple of paremeters are combined into one slider). Also their scaling for FFB Torque seems to be much more biased towards stronger forces compared to later games. I used to use FFBT 10 all the time in GT5/6 but in GTS 4 is plenty. I wish PD would include a clipping meter like PC sims so we can adjust properly, or include an auto calibration feature when you first start the game. As it stands GT FFB is mostly plug and play but some people could set it completely wrong and not have the same experience as us who know better.

I'll leave this excerpt from the "guru" of RealFeel and racing sim physics Niels Heusinkveld:


Taken from http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/realfeel-settings-and-discussion.107251/page-2#post-2101592

Oh yeah i totally agree with you. And even recently i remember a discussion between Atze Kerkhof and Lando Norris about how realistic the F3 car drives in iRacing. Even though they both have driven the real car they felt completely the opposite about it. Just proves that point.

The way i see it, i am not perse trying to replicate the real thing. Like Niels said, i dont have a powerful wheel and i dont even know how the real thing feels to begin with, and its very subjective so there will always be endless discussions about how realistic physics/FFB are in certain games compared to the real world. I simply try to look at my wheel as a tool, a controller, and i am setting up my controller to give me the most information i can get from the game. TBH i dont care if the way (for example) the back end steps out feels exactly how it would it in RL, as long as i can feel it happening and therefore react on it i am good. I dont need my wheel to feel as realistic as possible i need it to give me as much info as i can get from the physics engine/car. Also, i did notnget into race sims because i want to simulate driving a car as realistic as possible. I am into race sims because i love racing other people.

And i agree that its hard to get to grips with. To learn what to look or feel for FFB wise. As a new wheel user you simply have no clue when you start out. You copy some settings from somewhere and you dont feel much difference other then its a little lighter or heavier. Its not until you reach a certain level of skill or consistency as you learn to interpret and react to the FFB of your wheel that you actually start to feel the difference of how it reacts. You first need to be able to "read" the FFB properly before you can "write" the FFB properly, so to speak. In the end there will always remain a level of personal preference of course. But when you get to understand the basics of FFB wheels and take into mind stuff as clipping then you can really start to set it for you own instead of copying someone else's settings.

But yeah, always makes for interesting discussion.