Speed Junkie's Car Thread (About time I did this)
- Thread starter speed junkie
- 152 comments
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- 1,522
Sure does. I'm actually planning on getting them sand blasted somewhere cheap since there's already two coats of paint on them and I want to use a primer as well.
- 1,522
Finally I have gotten around to updating this. I'll jump to the point, the piston rings got washed out due to me running the car so rich for such a long time and the engine lost compression and would not turn on. Two weeks later, over the weekend (Friday through Tuesday) we pulled out the engine and replaced the piston rings along with the main and rod bearings. I used Supertech piston rings, ACL rod bearings, and King main crank bearings. The block was cleaned, honed, and cleaned again. Both front and rear main seals were replaced as well as all the other seals and o-rings from the water pump and oil pump.
I also had to gap the piston rings. It's something I don't ever want to do again. That is all.
The head and the combustion chamber looked horrible. #1 being the worst. The valves had so much carbon buildup on the back that they were probably not sealing when they closed. #1 also had, what I could only imagine to be, coolant residue stuck to the combustion chamber and the faces of the valves. I knew the car was consuming coolant so it didn't surprise me. The exhaust ports were horrible too. Once again, #1 was the worst with chunks of carbon buildup. We took a brush and carefully cleaned the combustion chamber and turned the cam to open the exhaust valves and cleaned them too. We then went through every port, closed the valves, and sprayed solvent in the ports until they were filled. We let it soak for 5 minutes and repeated the process for each cylinder. Each time going back and brushing any spots that needed it. The pistons were also cleaned.
Once everything was put back together the car started right up but idled kind of rough. I later came to find out, as it began to missfire under high load, that it was my old spark plug wires. For now I'm using my friend's old 1.8 wires but will probably buy some NGKs today.
The car has been running great after about 1200 miles (800 more and I can really get on it) with no coolant consumption or oil in the coolant. The only thing I regret not doing was adding water wetter when I filled the cooling system. I wanted to make sure that nothing else would happen that would require the coolant to be drained.
I also, raised the car up and sprayed underneath it with with some high pressure and really got things clean. The transmission (at least what I could reach) is prefectly clean as well as the block and oil pan. Also everything else around the engine that was covered with 22 years of oil and suit like the subframe and steering rack are now looking like new. Feels good man.
Anyways, that's that. Since then I have installed my new "FIA" approved seat mounts which I had bought pre-engine failure for an HPDE that I was going to attend. I had also bought new Powerslot rotors and some Motul RBF600 which I haven't installed since I'll be leaving for a week this Sunday and they'll just collect rust outside. I also got new Hawk HP+ pads and R888s. The tires probably won't go anywhere until I get new dailies.
Sorry for the low photo:text ratio on this update but here's a photo of the new rails. Oh and a, new to me, helmet I got for that track day which I got a bangin' deal on.
It's an Arai Quantum E with Michael Doohan paint scheme.
And one I took yesterday...
As you can see I've gone full hipster with Instagram
I also had to gap the piston rings. It's something I don't ever want to do again. That is all.
The head and the combustion chamber looked horrible. #1 being the worst. The valves had so much carbon buildup on the back that they were probably not sealing when they closed. #1 also had, what I could only imagine to be, coolant residue stuck to the combustion chamber and the faces of the valves. I knew the car was consuming coolant so it didn't surprise me. The exhaust ports were horrible too. Once again, #1 was the worst with chunks of carbon buildup. We took a brush and carefully cleaned the combustion chamber and turned the cam to open the exhaust valves and cleaned them too. We then went through every port, closed the valves, and sprayed solvent in the ports until they were filled. We let it soak for 5 minutes and repeated the process for each cylinder. Each time going back and brushing any spots that needed it. The pistons were also cleaned.
Once everything was put back together the car started right up but idled kind of rough. I later came to find out, as it began to missfire under high load, that it was my old spark plug wires. For now I'm using my friend's old 1.8 wires but will probably buy some NGKs today.
The car has been running great after about 1200 miles (800 more and I can really get on it) with no coolant consumption or oil in the coolant. The only thing I regret not doing was adding water wetter when I filled the cooling system. I wanted to make sure that nothing else would happen that would require the coolant to be drained.
I also, raised the car up and sprayed underneath it with with some high pressure and really got things clean. The transmission (at least what I could reach) is prefectly clean as well as the block and oil pan. Also everything else around the engine that was covered with 22 years of oil and suit like the subframe and steering rack are now looking like new. Feels good man.
Anyways, that's that. Since then I have installed my new "FIA" approved seat mounts which I had bought pre-engine failure for an HPDE that I was going to attend. I had also bought new Powerslot rotors and some Motul RBF600 which I haven't installed since I'll be leaving for a week this Sunday and they'll just collect rust outside. I also got new Hawk HP+ pads and R888s. The tires probably won't go anywhere until I get new dailies.
Sorry for the low photo:text ratio on this update but here's a photo of the new rails. Oh and a, new to me, helmet I got for that track day which I got a bangin' deal on.
It's an Arai Quantum E with Michael Doohan paint scheme.
And one I took yesterday...
As you can see I've gone full hipster with Instagram
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CodeRedR51
Premium
- 55,324
- United States
You ever get the rear sway issue fixed? Just curious if they did indeed replace the bar.
- 1,522
Hah, totally forgot about that. they told me to put clamps on them. I have a feeling that will just give way though. I'll probably try it tomorro.
On a side note, I bought some new plug wires today.
EDIT: Today...
On a side note, I bought some new plug wires today.
EDIT: Today...
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- 1,522
So I found out after doing an oil change that I have a big oil leak in the rear of my engine (gap between back of oil pan and transmission.) It's obviously the rear main seal. After those piston rings I am not really in the mood to do any work on my car so I will instead pay my friend to do it for me. I will supervise of course. Can't wait to have this damn thing in respectable condition so that I can start saving for what really matters. ITBs, twin plate clutch, solid-mounted, multi piston calipers and two-piece rotors. 
- 1,522
- 1,522
Update time! So I went to a drift event, one handed the majority of a corner and proceeded to over correct into a concrete barrier just as I was about to bring my arm back in to straighten out. The damage was "minimal" both of my front left control arms are even further bent up since the dragon. Even after Alex helped me dial back some tow and caster the car still pulls to the left. ALLOT. Also, the steering wheel is totally off center. I have some control arms coming in. Hopefully Saturday. Best case scenario this will fix my alignment problems that I have had ever since I crawled up the side of the Dragon. Worst case scenario I find out that the sub frame is also out of alignment.
The turn begins at 1:07. I over corrected into the barrier on the left right at about 1:13.
I was really just bummed out that I wasn't able to keep going as I was only able to get four runs.
Here's a photo some time before I fail corrected into concrete.
Oh yeah and I pealed part of the lip off of one of the Watanabes. Decided to put them up for sale and might be getting some "new" wheels.
I'll be posting some photos/videos if any pop up.
The turn begins at 1:07. I over corrected into the barrier on the left right at about 1:13.
I was really just bummed out that I wasn't able to keep going as I was only able to get four runs.
Here's a photo some time before I fail corrected into concrete.
Oh yeah and I pealed part of the lip off of one of the Watanabes. Decided to put them up for sale and might be getting some "new" wheels.
I'll be posting some photos/videos if any pop up.
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- 1,522
New wheels...
The seller claimed they were 15x7 +38 but after a quick check once I got them they turned out to be 15x6.5 +35. Came with Falken Ziex with about 85% tread left and I got a great deal on them.
The seller claimed they were 15x7 +38 but after a quick check once I got them they turned out to be 15x6.5 +35. Came with Falken Ziex with about 85% tread left and I got a great deal on them.
- 1,522
iPhones are so much better.
- 27,219
- United Kingdom
That's a great shot actually. And your car looks a bit more sophisticated now than it did with the orange wheels
Wish I'd owned mine long enough to get around to removing the rear mudflaps too, back end looks so much better without them.
Wish I'd owned mine long enough to get around to removing the rear mudflaps too, back end looks so much better without them.
- 1,522
So after installing the new rings the car was running great until (I think) spun a rod bearing. Lost count of how many times this engine has been out of the car as opposed to in it helping me do what I love so I'm not about to go down that road again. Found another 2003 VVT engine for a decent price with 46k miles one it and snatched it. Collecting all the parts to have the ITBs and hopefully the Toyota COPs installed and reayd to go for the install. The T3 adapter manifold for the throttles is currently getting machined to match the AE111 throttles (their port shape is made for the AE101s) as well as smoothing out the transitions inside the manifold. Also getting the Valve cover machined for the COPs.
Here's what came today with the latest Instagram quality!
14.5 lbs, 7.25" clutch diameter, plus dat flywheel. Light and low moment of inertia=quick reving. Will definitely make a video when everything is done.
Also took my Solid Works file to the machine shop for them to make the stacks I designed. Here's the drawing I made as reference...
In case anyone here is knowledgeable with engineering drawings you'll find a few errors but if you know they're there you'll probably be able to figure out why
These stacks "overlap" which is why this one has a cut on the side of the lip. This one will be for the #1 and #4 cylinder. I also made drawings for the "two side cut" configuration that will have cuts on either side since they will have #1 and #4 stacks on either side.
Here's what came today with the latest Instagram quality!
14.5 lbs, 7.25" clutch diameter, plus dat flywheel. Light and low moment of inertia=quick reving. Will definitely make a video when everything is done.
Also took my Solid Works file to the machine shop for them to make the stacks I designed. Here's the drawing I made as reference...
In case anyone here is knowledgeable with engineering drawings you'll find a few errors but if you know they're there you'll probably be able to figure out why
These stacks "overlap" which is why this one has a cut on the side of the lip. This one will be for the #1 and #4 cylinder. I also made drawings for the "two side cut" configuration that will have cuts on either side since they will have #1 and #4 stacks on either side.
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- 27,219
- United Kingdom
I think you've mentioned this before, but I'll ask again anyway - the last engine was an early 1.8 block with a later VVT head, am I right in thinking? Is the new one an entire late engine then?
- 1,522
The old engine was an 03 engine as well but I traded someone the VVT head for a 99 head since at the time I did't have the time, money, or know-how in regards to getting the VVT work. And I was all "doubleuuteef! The coil pack bracket doesn't fit on the back of the head! Oh noes, what do?!"
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- 27,219
- United Kingdom
Ah okay, that makes sense. I knew it was a bit of a mixture before.
- 1,522
Also here are some screen shots I took a bit ago of some flow simulation.
Flow trajectories, color visualizing pressure in kPA (red being 100k at atmosphere and the aqua being 30k which is what I typically get in a vacuum situation.)
Then a cut plot showing pressure. You can see where pressure increases near the walls due to a drop in velocity...
And here's velocity in m/s
I can't remember what surface roughness I used but it was whatever machined aluminum was. The stacks are going to go through a vibrating tumbler which will roughen them up a bit meaning they will simply have an even, flat color to them. So I'm sure the rougher surface will increase velocity near the walls.
Flow trajectories, color visualizing pressure in kPA (red being 100k at atmosphere and the aqua being 30k which is what I typically get in a vacuum situation.)
Then a cut plot showing pressure. You can see where pressure increases near the walls due to a drop in velocity...
And here's velocity in m/s
I can't remember what surface roughness I used but it was whatever machined aluminum was. The stacks are going to go through a vibrating tumbler which will roughen them up a bit meaning they will simply have an even, flat color to them. So I'm sure the rougher surface will increase velocity near the walls.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Highly technical, I like!
- 1,522
I did go but I didn't drive my car, obviously. I might show up in some videos though but I don't think that's as cool
Small update,
Got some 2002 Corolla coils with 46,000 miles on them as well as the coil harness off of an 01 Celica. That way I can avoid having to make my own plugs/weatherstrip.
I took apart the engine harness that came with the new 03 engine and separated and organized each plug/wire. Happy that I'll only be using around six of the ones show in the photo bellow.
I also got some mesh wiring loom because it looks way better than the plastic stuff. Totally transforms any length of wire. I've installed some between the crank angle sensor and its respective plug and was super exited. Now I just need to do the same with the coil wiring.
Also dropped the head off today at the machine shop for resurfacing. My manifold adapter and valve cover STILL hasn't been finished. Also got some Garage Star, satin silver, water pump and alternator pulleys.
Anyways that's where I stand right now. I guess if had the engine put together then the coils would be the only thing holding me back from turning it on since I don't need the VVT to be running for the engine to function. I could buy the VVTuner but I'd like to have everything else finished and running with no problems before starting on something new.
Another thing, I got a quote for my velocity stacks at a CNC shop and they told me $500 bucks
So that's that. Another option would be creating a group buy. With five or more people in the group buy the price would drop about 50% but that's another topic for later and for a different forum.And since all of you scroll through just to see cool pictures, I'm sorry to disappoint you
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- 1,522
That's just how I wrapped each one in half to fit in the box. Also so theyre neater and easier to go through for when I start working on them. Just better than a massive hairball of wires.
nobuffalo
Premium
- 2,692
- USA
Oh, then it wasn't obvious to me!
I see the cut ends now that you mention it. At first I thought it was a way to prevent the separate wires from pulling apart at splits in the harness. I guess it wouldn't be a good idea to do it the way I had envisioned as it would create more stress on a wire and increase the chance of breaking the wire or insulator. Maybe, but probably not.
I see the cut ends now that you mention it. At first I thought it was a way to prevent the separate wires from pulling apart at splits in the harness. I guess it wouldn't be a good idea to do it the way I had envisioned as it would create more stress on a wire and increase the chance of breaking the wire or insulator. Maybe, but probably not.
- 1,522
So today I began working on the "igniter" side of the harness. This is one of the two methods in which to connect the coil harness to the engine harness. The other being directly wiring it into the harness. This one involves more tedious work since you have to gut out the igniter and solder the coil harness wires onto the remaining factory terminals. There're not much space to work with. Everyone said it wasn't worth It and to just wire it straight to the engine harness. I guess they didn't grow up building model cars and planes as a hobby . I also like the fact that it's "plug and play." This just makes it into the "nicer" solution of the two and is completely reversible (not that I'll ever switch back.) Not to mention I won't have to do any soldering outside.
Anyways, as you guys will see in the photos, the main thing left to do is solder the coil end and the igniter end together and that'll be done.
^The loom is rolled back to give me space to solder the rest of the wire. I always throw a couple more inches of loom in just in case (which I trim away in the end.)
Hopefully my adapter manifold and valve cover will be done this weekend and I'll be able to paint them.
I still need to order a coil bracket for the valve cover but the only one available looks like crap and is definitely not worth the 50 bucks they're asking for.
I actually designed one on SolidWorks so I need to find a machine shop that wont charge me $500 to make it.
. I also like the fact that it's "plug and play." This just makes it into the "nicer" solution of the two and is completely reversible (not that I'll ever switch back.) Not to mention I won't have to do any soldering outside. Anyways, as you guys will see in the photos, the main thing left to do is solder the coil end and the igniter end together and that'll be done.
^The loom is rolled back to give me space to solder the rest of the wire. I always throw a couple more inches of loom in just in case (which I trim away in the end.)
Hopefully my adapter manifold and valve cover will be done this weekend and I'll be able to paint them.
I still need to order a coil bracket for the valve cover but the only one available looks like crap and is definitely not worth the 50 bucks they're asking for.
I actually designed one on SolidWorks so I need to find a machine shop that wont charge me $500 to make it.
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- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
You need to move this in to Members Rides dude, I always miss it! You know, by rounding off the edges and power coating that bracket a different colour it would look alright. But yes, expensive for a bracket.
I know you don't live in Australia, but give this guy an email - sq-parts@aanet.com.au.
He makes them for Toyota and the like, I'm sure he'd be interested it developing one for the miata so he can sell it. He helped me with my COP set up
I know you don't live in Australia, but give this guy an email - sq-parts@aanet.com.au.
He makes them for Toyota and the like, I'm sure he'd be interested it developing one for the miata so he can sell it. He helped me with my COP set up
- 1,522
I've PMed moderators in the past and it never moved 
And yeah I'll definitely write him an email.
And yeah I'll definitely write him an email.
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- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Aren't you able to as the post starter? You click on Moderation options on the first post..
- 1,522
See this is what I'm looking for.
Even uses nice, countersunk, socket head screws that don't stick out!
Even uses nice, countersunk, socket head screws that don't stick out!
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
I see you found his website 
His 4AGE adapter plates look great. Did you speak to him about making one for your engine?
His 4AGE adapter plates look great. Did you speak to him about making one for your engine?Similar threads
