stealth nxs on spa
- Thread starter chicagoSi
- 13 comments
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- 10,456
- United States
- WrecklessAbandon
Stock on RH tires, I'd call 2:17's average, 2:16's decent, 2:15's good, 2:14's great, 2:13's reserved for full-blown aliens.
But I haven't actually driven one broken in with oil at stock weight yet, those times may be up to a full second to slow. (meaning even faster for each)
But I haven't actually driven one broken in with oil at stock weight yet, those times may be up to a full second to slow. (meaning even faster for each)
- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
Unless you're losing the back end in several corners, or pushing the front end significantly, from what I've seen of online racers, most time can be gained through upgrading your driving skills as opposed to the tune.
I was running the NSX last night on Spa at 600pp and in the 2:12's and 2:13's with a quick tune I did between races. First time out in the car. I'll share it with you if you like, it might help send you in the right direction tuning, but I believe other than camber, toe and LSD, it was pretty close to stock or a clone of my other GT500 NSX tunes.
In my opinion the two biggest weaknesses I see in drivers online is braking too late and LSD Accel being too high. I race against guys all the time that spin out in tight hairpins or chicanes, like the last corner before the main straight at Spa, or who go too deep into corners and end up pushing into the sand or grass.
I've never found any benefit to tuning an LSD Accel above the point where the inside wheel stops spinning on exit in tighter corners. On GT500 cars, with light weight and massive tires and grip, ACCEL settings are very low for me, in the area of 10-12 most of the time. You'll find brake settings of 5/4 or 6/5 work well with most of the GT500 cars in online sprints, allowing you to trail brake if you want to, without fear of losing the back end on most corners.
I was running the NSX last night on Spa at 600pp and in the 2:12's and 2:13's with a quick tune I did between races. First time out in the car. I'll share it with you if you like, it might help send you in the right direction tuning, but I believe other than camber, toe and LSD, it was pretty close to stock or a clone of my other GT500 NSX tunes.
In my opinion the two biggest weaknesses I see in drivers online is braking too late and LSD Accel being too high. I race against guys all the time that spin out in tight hairpins or chicanes, like the last corner before the main straight at Spa, or who go too deep into corners and end up pushing into the sand or grass.
I've never found any benefit to tuning an LSD Accel above the point where the inside wheel stops spinning on exit in tighter corners. On GT500 cars, with light weight and massive tires and grip, ACCEL settings are very low for me, in the area of 10-12 most of the time. You'll find brake settings of 5/4 or 6/5 work well with most of the GT500 cars in online sprints, allowing you to trail brake if you want to, without fear of losing the back end on most corners.
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Thank you on tuning help! With lsd, thats where im sorta at with settings. I think i have it too slow and spring rate too high. I just got the wheel stand pro for dfgt today, so hopefully it'll help with better control! But i'll double check my setting and try your settings, thanks again
- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
Here are the settings I used for my quick tune. It seemed very stable to me, just had to be a bit careful in the first and last corner, but lighting up the rear end on NSX GT500's is pretty common for some reason.
Brakes 6/5
Height -10/-10
Springs 13.8/15.9
Front and Rear Dampers and ARB's 8/8/6
Camber 2.4/2.0
Toe -.10/+.10
LSD 8/5/30 ! Surprised me to find this..but it worked. You can try increasing the Accel but so long as the inside tire is not spinning, it is fine, IMHO
Top Speed was 320 km/h / 200 mph. My usual tranny tuning is to move first all the way to the left, second almost all the way, and 3-5 evenly spaced.
HP was 498
Power Limiter 96.7%
That got me into the 2:12's on RS tires and a win. Based on running a few lobbies against what I think were good drivers, 2:12 will get you into the winner's circle most of the time. The RX-7 TC and other GT500 cars will keep up, but I don't think the R32's, Challenger etc are on pace with this.
Good luck and any feedback on the tune would be appreciated. Best thing I can tell you about Spa is learn your braking points, and ride the curbs. The curbs are all flat and you need to get two wheels up there to straighten out the corners. Use shadows on the track or the beginnings of the curbing to pick your braking points. In the final chicane for example there are shadows on the track at the braking point. Depending on the PP level and street vs. race, you have different braking points. Find them and use them, and adjust for longer races to account for slight tire wear.
Good luck!!
Brakes 6/5
Height -10/-10
Springs 13.8/15.9
Front and Rear Dampers and ARB's 8/8/6
Camber 2.4/2.0
Toe -.10/+.10
LSD 8/5/30 ! Surprised me to find this..but it worked. You can try increasing the Accel but so long as the inside tire is not spinning, it is fine, IMHO
Top Speed was 320 km/h / 200 mph. My usual tranny tuning is to move first all the way to the left, second almost all the way, and 3-5 evenly spaced.
HP was 498
Power Limiter 96.7%
That got me into the 2:12's on RS tires and a win. Based on running a few lobbies against what I think were good drivers, 2:12 will get you into the winner's circle most of the time. The RX-7 TC and other GT500 cars will keep up, but I don't think the R32's, Challenger etc are on pace with this.
Good luck and any feedback on the tune would be appreciated. Best thing I can tell you about Spa is learn your braking points, and ride the curbs. The curbs are all flat and you need to get two wheels up there to straighten out the corners. Use shadows on the track or the beginnings of the curbing to pick your braking points. In the final chicane for example there are shadows on the track at the braking point. Depending on the PP level and street vs. race, you have different braking points. Find them and use them, and adjust for longer races to account for slight tire wear.
Good luck!!
Ok, with little more tuning i got a 2:14.6xx, not too bad, i say, this the first car i'm actually try'n to tune! Now with MR, seems obvisous that everything needs to be balanced F/R! With alittle more help i think we're headed in the right direction. When i get to my game, i'll post my settings and see if i'm way of or on target! Thanks again!
- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
Generally a base tune for me, begins with leaving the ride height at zero on most cars, then setting up the springs based on weight distribution. The NSX is 45/55 if memory serves, so to begin with, I'll use the slider scale on the spring rate adjustment to make the front 45 and the back 55%. Then the dampers I set relative to the springs. If the springs on the back for example, at 55% are set at 12 and the max is 17, 12/17 is roughly 7/10 so I set the bound and rebound at 7.
Generally then I'll set the ARB's at the opposite of the dampers so if the dampers are 7/10ths of max as in this case, the ARB's will be 3/10ths of max, max = 7 and therefore 2.1 for 2 after rounding.
For toe I generally start at -.05/+.05 and Camber around 2.5/2.0. Brakes generally at 6/5 to start and fairly low LSD settings like 8/12/12.
This is after running the car stock a few laps to see how it feels and get an idea of laps times. Then run it with this basic tune, and see if the times are better or worse, but mainly I'm looking for balance to begin with. If the car is too loose in the back or pushes in the front, I then tune that end of the car to fix that problem to get to balance.
Once you've achieved balance, you then play with the other settings to begin lowering lap times. Balance to me, is the number one element to going fast. Once you've achieved a good balance, you've done most of the work and after that it's mostly fine tuning for making the car feel the way you want so you are confident in it and can run consistent lap times.
Make changes 1 at a time and run the car, but don't be afraid to make dramatic changes and see what happens. If they ARB's are at 2/2 for example to start, don't be afraid to go to 5/5 and see how the car feels. If the springs are at 9.0/9.0 don't go to 9.1/9.1, go to 11/11 and see what happens. It's often easier to feel the difference between these drastic changes than with small changes. Once you know what the drastic effect is, the effect of smaller changes will be easier to feel.
Remember also, the effect of ride height settings in the game is reversed. If you want more grip on the front, you raise the front, not the rear, as in real life. This one thing alone screwed up all my tuning for the first 3 months...lol. I almost always run equal heights front and back, but as a last resort when all else fails, I use ride height differentials to stabilize the car, usually the back in MR and FR cars, and to get the front to turn in FF and 4WD cars.
Generally then I'll set the ARB's at the opposite of the dampers so if the dampers are 7/10ths of max as in this case, the ARB's will be 3/10ths of max, max = 7 and therefore 2.1 for 2 after rounding.
For toe I generally start at -.05/+.05 and Camber around 2.5/2.0. Brakes generally at 6/5 to start and fairly low LSD settings like 8/12/12.
This is after running the car stock a few laps to see how it feels and get an idea of laps times. Then run it with this basic tune, and see if the times are better or worse, but mainly I'm looking for balance to begin with. If the car is too loose in the back or pushes in the front, I then tune that end of the car to fix that problem to get to balance.
Once you've achieved balance, you then play with the other settings to begin lowering lap times. Balance to me, is the number one element to going fast. Once you've achieved a good balance, you've done most of the work and after that it's mostly fine tuning for making the car feel the way you want so you are confident in it and can run consistent lap times.
Make changes 1 at a time and run the car, but don't be afraid to make dramatic changes and see what happens. If they ARB's are at 2/2 for example to start, don't be afraid to go to 5/5 and see how the car feels. If the springs are at 9.0/9.0 don't go to 9.1/9.1, go to 11/11 and see what happens. It's often easier to feel the difference between these drastic changes than with small changes. Once you know what the drastic effect is, the effect of smaller changes will be easier to feel.
Remember also, the effect of ride height settings in the game is reversed. If you want more grip on the front, you raise the front, not the rear, as in real life. This one thing alone screwed up all my tuning for the first 3 months...lol. I almost always run equal heights front and back, but as a last resort when all else fails, I use ride height differentials to stabilize the car, usually the back in MR and FR cars, and to get the front to turn in FF and 4WD cars.
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