Stupid Newbie Mistake - HELP?

Ugh.. I remember when my friend pulled a prank on me and sold my 4 black beauties.. Took me like 4 months real time to get them back. And where is a cheap 8mb memory card for sale? i would like to join the club of 2 or more memory cards.
 
Ugh.. I remember when my friend pulled a prank on me and sold my 4 black beauties.. Took me like 4 months real time to get them back. And where is a cheap 8mb memory card for sale? i would like to join the club of 2 or more memory cards.

Amazon.

I got 4 "official" 8mb memory cards and a 32mb AR Max one. 👍

Once my brother got a hold of my save whilst I was out and managed to buy about 10 new Skyline GT-Rs and a ton of used cars. :ouch: Luckily he didnt sell anything in my garage and I just did Capri a ton of times so I could earn the cash back. 👍
 
Back on topic, the Evo/Amalfi idea is the only way to go.

Also...

This thread actually sounds like a pretty cool challenge for some of us. In other words: you sell all your cars but don't have any money in the bank. No licenses or missions done yet... How long does it take you to get back on your feet? 💡

...i might just do this! :lol::nervous:

I beg to differ, my learned friend. The real challenge woukld be to attain 100% with 80 golds, then clear out all credits and cars to start again without the possibility of prize cars. Those in the Multiple Memory Stick Club may want to try it?
 
PF
.....I beg to differ, my learned friend. The real challenge would be to attain 100% with 80 golds, then clear out all credits and cars to start again without the possibility of prize cars. Those in the Multiple Memory Stick Club may want to try it?

This would not be that difficult to raise some cash quickly as you can still do the driving missions and receive the cash for completing it.

A couple of examples. Do some easy ones like M21 / M22 / M24 for the slipstreams you get 7,500 credits.

M28 -(celica st Fuji) & M31 -(lotus at high speed ring) Is an easy 10,000 credits each with a small wait time between 1st and 6th.

With-in 1/2 hour to and hour, you would easily have enough cash to start the Capri money grab and then in time the DTM money grab. But thats just my opinion.
 
So - thanks for your help, everyone! I have some money and more cars now.

I have a stupid newbie question - I have searched, but I can't find any threads which answer it.

Do you need to perform regular maintenance on your cars? Oil changes, replace tires, or anything else regularly?

Misc. Tidbits:
I've raced the Beginner Hall races (FF) with my prize Mazda Kusabi, and I just bought a Miata to do the FR races.

I've done a bit of 'tuning' on the Kusabi - it's faster now, but seems to handle a bit worse. Too bad I don't have enough car-knowledge to know what to do. Ah well.

I almost won the first two special condition events.... but I think I need to do something different or try a different car.

I can not pass the Nurburgring (sp?) IB license test... I missed it by .004 seconds and I am somewhat discouraged now.
 
I have a stupid newbie question - I have searched, but I can't find any threads which answer it.

Do you need to perform regular maintenance on your cars? Oil changes, replace tires, or anything else regularly?

Misc. Tidbits:
I've raced the Beginner Hall races (FF) with my prize Mazda Kusabi, and I just bought a Miata to do the FR races.

I've done a bit of 'tuning' on the Kusabi - it's faster now, but seems to handle a bit worse. Too bad I don't have enough car-knowledge to know what to do. Ah well.

I almost won the first two special condition events.... but I think I need to do something different or try a different car.

I can not pass the Nurburgring (sp?) IB license test... I missed it by .004 seconds and I am somewhat discouraged now.

Yes and no on your answers.

On oil changes: You should on used cars. When you buy them their oil is spent, and the engine is at its lowest horsepower output. Changing the oil will increase the cars horsepower output to its "Like new" rating.
On new cars you don't have to worry about it right away. I usually change it out when I notice a substancial HP drop.

On Tires: Only in endurance runs. Once you buy a style of tire, you have them for ever.

Tuning take a while to "master". One thing you could do is search through the tuning section to see what others have done with the identical car and conpair it to your settings. Maybe keep your A settings as your own, and set your B settings as another members car settings and compair between the two.
 
Ugh.. I remember when my friend pulled a prank on me and sold my 4 black beauties.. Took me like 4 months real time to get them back. And where is a cheap 8mb memory card for sale? i would like to join the club of 2 or more memory cards.
I recently saw that our local Wal*Mart had a two memory card and DS2 pack. Otherwise, check online or Gamestop-like places.
 
Do you need to perform regular maintenance on your cars? Oil changes, replace tires, or anything else regularly?

PARAGON GT got this one already. I just want to add that it's bad doing an oil change before an enduro. The reason is, doing an oil change raises your HP (or ps, or whatever), which sounds great, but as you drive over many miles (or km) your oil starts to degrade, and power gets lost. :mad: So you lose some of your original power during the race. :banghead:

If you have a car that you're taking to an enduro, but recently changed its oil, you can just put that car in a free run at any track, put it on B-spec, raise the speed by 3x, and let Boob do about 20 or more laps. After all these laps, the car's power should fall.
 
So - thanks for your help, everyone! I have some money and more cars now.

Great to hear.

I have a stupid newbie question - I have searched, but I can't find any threads which answer it.

Do you need to perform regular maintenance on your cars? Oil changes, replace tires, or anything else regularly?

I myself try not to do oil changes, but that is because I like the challenges of the stock car or 200 A-spec points.
For a Newbie to the game, Yeah oil change any second hand car purchased to gain your lost HP.

The only other thing you will need do (esp. when you reach Enduro Hall or Extreme Hall) Is a Chasis Refresh.
Example of this would be if you use the same car to run both Sarthe and or Nurb 24Hr races. You may also want to consider a refresh on Used Cars also.

Misc. Tidbits:
I've raced the Beginner Hall races (FF) with my prize Mazda Kusabi, and I just bought a Miata to do the FR races.

I've done a bit of 'tuning' on the Kusabi - it's faster now, but seems to handle a bit worse. Too bad I don't have enough car-knowledge to know what to do. Ah well.

I almost won the first two special condition events.... but I think I need to do something different or try a different car.

Searched for Kusabi and found this posted by EA11R

I can not pass the Nurburgring (sp?) IB license test... I missed it by .004 seconds and I am somewhat discouraged now.

Keep trying, If your that close you will get it.

Good Luck
 
So!! Things are looking good! (I appreciate the responses, btw.)

I tried, tried to finish the 2nd Special Event rally race, to win the Toyota - but I did buy a few cars to try the FR beginner races (neither of which were worth a darn), so I was low on money... my two 'best' cars were the DeLorean and the Kusabi. I kept trying, but failing to win the reverse run. Then last night, as I crashed yet again (lol), I apparently caused the rival car to crash, which caused a bug, which glued him to one spot until I was completely done with my first lap - SO I WON! I guess I shouldn't be so happy about winning that way, but it's turned the game around. I can't drive the Toyota well, but it's fast enough to overcome my shortcomings (I feel like my son, bouncing off walls to make turns). I won another Toyota with the first one and sold it.... and I am currently well on my way to money & fame. (I've won six cars since last night.)

Thank you much for the tuning info on the Kusabi!
 
Duck's Settings are damn fine. If you ask me.

Here is all of their cars.

One thing to remember if you are using an extremley overpowered car against the AI. Brake early so you dont hit the wall or them. Wait for a straight then blast past.

Great to hear you are back on the road. (so to speak)
 
You should be able to beat the 2nd endurance with either of those cars.
Try turning off your driving aids. In general the aids tend to act as an anchor and can cause the car to become unruly and slow.

That might help in beating the event.

If not, and you happen to have 10,000 saved up, Either a used Camaro Z-28 or Silvia would be up to the task.
 
Yes! And I finally won the [bronze, just squeaked by] Nurburgring(sp?) IA license test! FINALLY!


**** off to hunt tuning advice on my super-slow Miata ****
 
Plenty of people will help you with that. Scaff has done a tuning guide. Its around somewhere. Try the tuning hall, but I can't remember where I saw it. I am only concentrating on the licenses at the moment. Haven't started tuning so sorry, can't help. But plenty will. And well done.
 
GTNewbie2009
Yes! And I finally won the [bronze, just squeaked by] Nurburgring(sp?) IA license test! FINALLY!


**** off to hunt tuning advice on my super-slow Miata ****

Congratulations! That test took me 1 week to pass the first time I tried.
 
I don't know if it's allowed to link to outside sites, but I just found this gem of advice:
"Practice gets you in first
On any race that you enter with an option to "Practice", it is a hidden qualifying round. It is actually a qualifying round for the race that you are entering. Do the practice until you see first place at the top of the screen. Once you see this, quit practice and start the race in either A or B-Spec modes. Your car will start in first place."


Turns out if my slow Miata starts first, it can hold the lead - it's the catching up that it couldn't do. I also seem to drive better when I'm in front - I didn't misjudge my corners as much.
 
Yeah, qualifying before a race is actually more realistic, too. Starting in last place is only for those who are either too lazy to qualify first, or want to play "videogame style," fighting to 1st from the back of the pack. :)
 
I don't know if it's allowed to link to outside sites, but I just found this gem of advice:
"Practice gets you in first
On any race that you enter with an option to "Practice", it is a hidden qualifying round. It is actually a qualifying round for the race that you are entering. Do the practice until you see first place at the top of the screen. Once you see this, quit practice and start the race in either A or B-Spec modes. Your car will start in first place."


Turns out if my slow Miata starts first, it can hold the lead - it's the catching up that it couldn't do. I also seem to drive better when I'm in front - I didn't misjudge my corners as much.

Practice or Qualifying can only be done during a championship series. To tell the difference, where your trophy's are shown the squares together are championships the circles are individual. However if you do championship races individually you can not practice, Example is European 1000 miles Championship

The only problem with Practice that most people find is the first few laps that you do, you can get first quite easily, (by 4 seconds or more). However when you enter the race the AI can be quite a lot faster than there practice run, So you just need to look out for that.

Well done on the IA licence to. The prize car is quite handy for Special Conditions also you can use in the Beginner and Professional Halls
 

Latest Posts

Back