Supra 3.0GT Turbo A 1988; Focus: Balance and Control

  • Thread starter adrnv
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adrnv
DIRECTION

Lately, I've been using a '88 Supra. I've been trying to replicate the same effects of a Pontiac Solstice Coupe Concept. Balance and control is my main focus here since I set this car up to go around my 6 mile Toscana track that ranges from 90-100 turns (Open lobby tracks available occasionally). Constant turns means linking turns as much as I can. I was going for a lightweight start then added a little power (I'm cheap) for minimum e-brake use (less dependence on it) and more throttle and brake use. Here are the settings.

CONTROLLER
Logitech Driving Force Wireless

STATISTICS

Max HP 369 HP / Max Torque 331 ft.lb
489 PP / 1239 KG

BODY & TIRES

Tires
Comfort: Hard

Chassis
Stage 3 Weight Reduction
Window Weight Reduction
Carbon Hood: Body Color

POWER

Engine
ECU

Intake
Sport Intake Manifold
Racing Air Filter

Exhaust
Sport Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter: Sport
Titanium Racing Exhaust

DRIVETRAIN & TRANSMISSION

Transmission
6-Speed Close Ratio Transmission

LSD
Initial Torque 60
Acceleration 60
Deceleration 60

Carbon Driveshaft
Semi-Racing Flywheel
Twin Plate Clutch

BRAKES

Brake Balance (F/R)
7 / 5

SUSPENSION

Full Customizable Suspension
Ride Height -10 / -10
Spring Rate 13.5 / 10.8
Dampers Extension & Compression 6 / 6
Anti-Roll Bars 4 / 4
Default Camber and Toe Angle
 
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No offense, but this setup looks kinda "too basic". I´m sure you can setup this car even more agressively, adding more HPs and backing down the LSD numbers a bit, and you will still having a very confortable experience on this car, but in a superior pace. Again, respectfully, try to push this car, cose it have a lot more to offer.
 
It's fine, I was looking for feedback anyway. My next step is to add a turbo...or should I do an engine upgrade first? What do you suggest I do with the LSD set up?
 
  • Do all engine upgrades, no mercy (unless you´re trying to build a "more realistic, but limitaded" car).
  • Save the Turbo choice and Muffler´s choice for last. There you will know how many HP you really want, its better torque curve and how it will sounds (speaking about noises, really).
  • The LSD valors is too polemic by itself (see the thread about LSD on this first page to have an idea). What i can say is that i started thinking that 2-ways full locked was the answer for any drift car, now i think that less is more, specialy for hi-spec cars. Try find something enough to give a responsive and stable acceleration, but not delivering a loose response on both ways (accel & deccel). Also, set your gearbox to match with your LSD´s torque deliver and recover. Trial and error, my friend.
  • By the way, dont keep your Camber and Toe numbers as default. A good front camber, a very small rear camber, any negative front toe, any positive rear toe. Again, trial and error.
 
Realistic and limited sounds fun actually, and have been shooting for that for a lot of cars. Noises...I wish GT5 had better and more unique noise. I'll change the muffler to Sports temporarily while I try out different camber and toe settings then. I'll post another reply when I've played around a little more with the suspension, Thanks.
 
First thing: Are you on a wheel?
Secondly: i think your LSD setup looks good but as LazyLiquid said, take a look at the LSD thread, it could be better: 10 60 60, or 10 60 30.
3rd: If you are on a wheel, increased front camber and toe will work miracles. My front camber is mostly between 1.5 and 3 and toe is between + 0.25 and + 0.30.
 
Yeah, I'm on a wheel, I'm currently changing the settings right now and I got to around those settings. Still messing with the LSD

EDIT

Update on Settings
(Changes only)

352 Horsepower

POWER
From Titanium Racing Exhaust to Sports Exhaust (Sounds AWESOME!)

DRIVETRAIN
LSD
Initial Torque 35
Acceleration Sensitivity 60
Braking Sensitivity 10

SUSPENSION
Height -10/-10
Spring Rate 13/11.3
Damper Extension 6/7
Damper Compression 6/7
Anti-Roll Bars 4/5
Camber 2.0/0.3
Toe 0.25/0.50

BRAKES
8/7
 
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If you need any help, sned me a PSN friend request. (Can be Im on max friends, ill check when im back home).
 
First thing: Are you on a wheel?
Secondly: i think your LSD setup looks good but as LazyLiquid said, take a look at the LSD thread, it could be better: 10 60 60, or 10 60 30.
3rd: If you are on a wheel, increased front camber and toe will work miracles. My front camber is mostly between 1.5 and 3 and toe is between + 0.25 and +0.30.

Really? I have only have bad problems with toe in up front, You should try using toe out up front and toe in out back. 👍👍

edit: My usual front toe settings are -0.10 to -0.30 and out back is usually +0.03 to +0.20.
 
Really? I have only have bad problems with toe in up front, You should try using toe out up front and toe in out back. 👍👍

edit: My usual front toe settings are -0.10 to -0.30 and out back is usually +0.03 to +0.20.

Lol, mine is a bit extreme then since it's at +.50 in the back. I tend to use the foot break to initiate the drift which is why I have the LSD set up how it is now. Awesome linking, balance, and control. I've been setting up open lobbies with my tracks... I should be announcing it on the Drift Meets section...but oh well, I'll do so next time. Come by sometime, it's a blast. Road width at -5 with complexity of 10. Pretty much rolling hills with little drift space.
 
I tend to flip around between brake and throttle to initiate a drift on my Toscana track. Based on my understanding of the Tuning Guide, higher rear toe-out angle means more power with the throttle. Using that, it actually enhances the turn-in for me. At the same time, getting the max angle is easier to get to by going full throttle.
 
Really? I have only have bad problems with toe in up front, You should try using toe out up front and toe in out back. 👍👍

edit: My usual front toe settings are -0.10 to -0.30 and out back is usually +0.03 to +0.20.

I´d highlight that. Interesting how Gonales uses positive toe on front... as standard i always use between -0.15 to -0.25 on front and in few cases i decrease even more. I can´t explain why, but thats how it works for me.
 
I'm really looking forward to trying this. I've had this page open for 4 hours just waiting till it's an acceptable hour for the the lovely sound of the wheel spinning wildly waking everyone up.

Your style is similar to mine but my tuning skills for drifting are non existent, it'll certainly be interesting :)
 
Really? I have only have bad problems with toe in up front, You should try using toe out up front and toe in out back. 👍👍

edit: My usual front toe settings are -0.10 to -0.30 and out back is usually +0.03 to +0.20.

I´d highlight that. Interesting how Gonales uses positive toe on front... as standard i always use between -0.15 to -0.25 on front and in few cases i decrease even more. I can´t explain why, but thats how it works for me.

I remember i used to use negative toe in the front, but I switched because of a tip from TTCH. (I assume you guys know him :D). He told me that with my driving style it would be better, seeing I'm at all times correcting my drift. Some people said it looked like I used a controller when im on a dfgt with -2 steering sensitivity :P

I just re-tuned my car with a negative front end toe. It's a tad more reactive, BUT this goes with the amount of countersteer I can produce without risking gripping tires, and i have a lot of control when reverse entries are in order. :)
 
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I've always used Positve/Negative. From what I have read that is what most drifters use in real life. Who knows thought, it seems to work for me.
 
As positive toe increase lateral grip increases. When you are using a lower hp car less toe is actually beyter because it will allow the tires to slip more.
 
First things first, your suspension is too stiff. There's no all around balance. Also - toe in front & no toe in the back. Finally rear ride height should be higher ( try -15 -10) and front camber should be higher in the front. 3.5 is a must when it comes to front camber for me but the rear camber depends on the track because the faster the speed through the turns the more camber you need. Never set the back above 3 camber. Good luck
 
Here's my current set up.

414 Max HP
440 Max Torque (ft.lb)
510 Performance Points

Body/Chassis & Tires

Weight Reduction 3
Window Weight Reduction
Carbon Hood
Comfort Hard Tires

Power

ECU
Sports Intake Manifold
Racing Air Filter
Sports Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter: Sports
Titanium Semi-Racing Exhaust
Mid-RPG Range Turbo Kit

Transmission & Drivetrain

6-Speed Close Transmission
Clutch: Twin Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing
LSD (35/60/10)
Carbon Driveshaft

Suspension

Full Customized
Ride Height: -10/-10
Spring Rate: 11.5/11.0
Dampers Extension: 6/7
Dampers Compression: 6/7
Anti-Roll Bars: 4/5
Camber Angle: 2.0/0.3
Toe Angle: 0.25/0.55

Brakes
Brake Balance: 8/7

I have taken in your recommendations and ended up with this setting.

This I guess reflects my driving style. Gives me a lot of nose diving when I need it. By braking from high RPM to a lower RPM while drifting, I am able to achieve oversteering easier to initiate, stabilize/balance, control, and continue/linking drifts.
 
I figured it out. I was thinking that toe-out was positive and toe-in was negative. I decided to look online and have found out I had it backwards. Time to switch!

Your setup looks good adrnv, keep up the good work.
 
Also try running toe out in the front. It will help turn in and will make the car smoother. Toe in front adds excessive grip to the front wheels and on a controller will ultimately limit angle.
 
If you are on, do you mind me giving you a tune and i dont want to explain it on GTP but i can explain everything online if you want but anyway i would be glad to give you one :D
 
Also try running toe out in the front. It will help turn in and will make the car smoother. Toe in front adds excessive grip to the front wheels and on a controller will ultimately limit angle.

Depends on driving styles, because I use poisitive toe and do perfectly fine with it.
 
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