- 1,662
- Tennessee,USA
- StarFirebird
- starfirebird
Team Shmo (tuning garage) *NEW* CATERHAM SEVEN FIREBLADE '02
- Thread starter shmogt
- 679 comments
- 273,388 views
- 5,812
- shmogt
Dodge Viper GTS 2002
A Beast! I love the Viper it is one of my fav cars, this model especially so I had to do a tune. I made this car to be as raced out as it can get. It is much more stable and precise than normal, but still can get away from you if you don't drive it properly. I had it more stable and easier to drive, but the times were a decent amount slower so just drive this like you would any other race car. It is very fast and I think may be able to get up to 1000hp once fully broken in. The suspension is hard so either be careful on bumpy tracks or lower it a tiny bit if you want.
Also this car works great at the 650pp seasonal events. It has so much more power than everything else and keeps it fun since not as much downforce. I sometimes have a hard time winning these ones as there are a lot of cars that can reach 650, but for some reason not many are very good. This one is my go to now as it does everything great. Just powerlimit it down until it reaches 650pp.
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- 5,812
- shmogt
img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6051308716_3cc3ac848f_z.jpg[/img]
Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR '08
I find this car pretty quick now after my new changes. Very important to drive it in a certain way tho. Start in gear 3 and accelerate until about 75mph than shift to 4. Shift the very split second you see the red light for all the other gears as they do come quick. You will be in 6 in no time in which you can just sit back, relax, and wait for you to take the victory.
EDIT since spec 2: I have changed everything on this as I could not get online when I made this so I had no idea how it would stack up against others. I took what others have said into account and I have raced many people and found what needs to be changed. Start in gear 1 until about 54mph (87kph) than change to gear 2. After that hit as soon as its about to redline. It will smoke in first gear, but it's the fastest I have gotten. I usually drag at the normal drag spots and it seems to do well at all them. Also it's for 1/4 mile.
EDIT: Jan 4 2012. Brand new extremely much improved transmission. Did a 9.194 in 1/4
Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR '08
I find this car pretty quick now after my new changes. Very important to drive it in a certain way tho. Start in gear 3 and accelerate until about 75mph than shift to 4. Shift the very split second you see the red light for all the other gears as they do come quick. You will be in 6 in no time in which you can just sit back, relax, and wait for you to take the victory.
EDIT since spec 2: I have changed everything on this as I could not get online when I made this so I had no idea how it would stack up against others. I took what others have said into account and I have raced many people and found what needs to be changed. Start in gear 1 until about 54mph (87kph) than change to gear 2. After that hit as soon as its about to redline. It will smoke in first gear, but it's the fastest I have gotten. I usually drag at the normal drag spots and it seems to do well at all them. Also it's for 1/4 mile.
EDIT: Jan 4 2012. Brand new extremely much improved transmission. Did a 9.194 in 1/4
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TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
Car: Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR '08
Drivetrain: FR
Horsepower: 1013HP/6800rpm
Torque: 858 ft-lb/5400rpm
Weight: 1257 kg
Miles: 78.2
Performance Points: 662
PARTS:
All performance parts
SETUP:
Body/Chassis
Aerodynamics
Downforce: 0/0
Weight Balance: 0/0 - Try adding ballast weight 0, position 50
Transmission
1st: 4.069
2nd: 2.123
3rd: 1.365
4th: 0.994
5th: 0.844
6th: 0.743
Final: 3.000
Top Speed: 280
- Do you take the transmission trick into consideration? The tranny trick is a must on these cars. Also you should have final gear below 3, like 2-2.5 for better acceleration according to different sources.
Limited Slip Differential
Initial: xx/26
Accel: xx/45
Braking: xx/9
- What about these exact numbers on the LSD, you could might as well run 60/60/5, or 5/60/20.
Suspension
Ride Height: -20/15
Spring Rate: 16.7/10.2
Extension: 10/5 - Well, the usual drag suspension is 1/10 for front....
Compression: 9/5 - ......and 10/1 for rear
Anti-Roll: 7/7
Camber: 0.0/0.0
Toe: 0.10/0.20
Brakes
Brake Balance: 5/5
My notes
At the end of the tunnel you should hit like 244, 245 mph, thats a good speed to hit. Im affraid 241 mph is far to less. Well, this is just what i would improve, no hard feelings.
Drivetrain: FR
Horsepower: 1013HP/6800rpm
Torque: 858 ft-lb/5400rpm
Weight: 1257 kg
Miles: 78.2
Performance Points: 662
PARTS:
All performance parts
SETUP:
Body/Chassis
Aerodynamics
Downforce: 0/0
Weight Balance: 0/0 - Try adding ballast weight 0, position 50
Transmission
1st: 4.069
2nd: 2.123
3rd: 1.365
4th: 0.994
5th: 0.844
6th: 0.743
Final: 3.000
Top Speed: 280
- Do you take the transmission trick into consideration? The tranny trick is a must on these cars. Also you should have final gear below 3, like 2-2.5 for better acceleration according to different sources.
Limited Slip Differential
Initial: xx/26
Accel: xx/45
Braking: xx/9
- What about these exact numbers on the LSD, you could might as well run 60/60/5, or 5/60/20.
Suspension
Ride Height: -20/15
Spring Rate: 16.7/10.2
Extension: 10/5 - Well, the usual drag suspension is 1/10 for front....
Compression: 9/5 - ......and 10/1 for rear
Anti-Roll: 7/7
Camber: 0.0/0.0
Toe: 0.10/0.20
Brakes
Brake Balance: 5/5
My notes
At the end of the tunnel you should hit like 244, 245 mph, thats a good speed to hit. Im affraid 241 mph is far to less. Well, this is just what i would improve, no hard feelings.
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- 5,812
- shmogt
The car is already 50/50 so ballast is pointless. I just bought this car today to make a purpose built dragsters so it doesn't have enough miles to hit 145 at end of tunnel, but I'm sure it can hit it no prob once broken in. I'll try the dampers thing I had no idea what to do with them. Have you tried it tho or are just speculating the settings are wrong based on what others have done? Thank you for the feedback either way
- 5,812
- shmogt
DaLightninRacer
He said 0kg and -50 position which would of done nothing, but I'll play around with weight. I think real life and gt5 are a little different when it comes to weight as I have found it helps but you can always get better results without adding any.
Also raver I think it's another glitch with this car as I do not have the option to adjust areo parts normally. I remember the stock spoiler was supposed to be better than the aftermarket one, but I couldn't make any changes so I just left it
- 5,812
- shmogt
Theres barely any excess wheel spin with this tune, but I'll remember that for next time. lol Has anyone even tested this tune?
- 1,079
- Australia,SA
- d24689
At SSR7 do you always drop the rear and bring up the front or is that specific to certain cars? Asking this cuz I'm gunna start trying by hand at SSR7, see what a difference there is between that and Indy
Well it depends on the car, but very rarely do you ever drop the back all the way, good for top speed but not launch, and you need both. very differnt from indy tunes instead of having just acceleration you NEED top end also.
TT3AZ
(Banned)
- 1,566
- tt3_az
- TT3AZ
Those things i wrote was based on what i use more or less. Usually people, run 0 weight, and ballast position 50, because you dont add any additional weight to the car, but you transfer weight allreaddy in the car so to say.
The suspension can be complex, on some cars my ride height is like yours, on some cars my front is slightly higher. On some cars i use front spring rate as stiff as possible, and rear as soft as posible. I dont know about your suspension, but theoreticly 1/10, 10/1 would be best for ultimate weight transfer. Some people are running 10/5, 5/10, 1/5, 5/1, or 10/1, 10/1, etc, there are manny variations. Personly i cant feel that much differance.
Also, have you tried the so called transmission trick, so you can have a verry long first gear, and short gears after that?
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- 5,812
- shmogt
moving just the ballast won't do anything unless you add weight. Think of it literally as a box just because you move the box around doesn't help only if you add weight will it change. My first gear is very long and than it does get closer together, but the length I have now I find it long enough to switch easy and accelerate with no problems. For suspension super hard/low front with more movement in the back I like as it pushes the back down when launching than stays a little lower for more speed. There may be better ways for this car as I am not a expert on drag so I will try your suggestions and see if it's better.
I like the suggestions and comments, but can someone actually drive it. I want to know if it's good now and what changes to make from this not what others do for drag for random cars
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
- 5,812
- shmogt
Adrenaline
The weight of the box would be nothing if you can freely move it around, but I guess the most minor amount would be shifted. For sure it won't do anything in gt5 tho it's just in your mind. If it did do something the stats would change to show you it's working like everything else
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
You can move 200kg ballast about 10-15 positions before you see a single change in weight distribution percentages. So your point is moot. In GT5, the 0kg ballast at different positions can absolutely make a difference to drivers consistent enough to feel that difference. Will you feel it on a super stable car, with lots of grip? No. But take your Yellowbird out for some testing, and you'll start to see the differences of 0kg at +50 vs -50. They are small, but they are there and it does work on other cars as well. Adding 0kg to the +50 on some cars with excess understeer and you'll notice the car is a bit more agile, even if slightly so. The point is, you can use this 'slightness' to your advantage, because every little bit helps.
