The biking thread

[Greycap]

Another new Specialized for me. The recipe: buy the cheapest poverty spec model and kit it out with leftover parts from everything you've owned during the last decade. There are parts from at least six of its ancestors on it and a few newly bought ones.

EDIT - This wasn't bought to serve as a mountain bike, even though it's pictured in such a setting. It's just standing in for my main XC rocket as the latter has two busted tyres and is waiting for a big drivetrain overhaul over the winter. The main job for this one is being a daily runabout so I don't have to drive everywhere beyond walking distance.

 

[Solo]

My finger is hovering over the mouse button to buy this:

edit: Well, this thing is mine now. $2.5k. Nothing else in that price range had a power meter and carbon wheels. My fitter is going to be SO mad at me. Literally the opposite of a robust endurance bike.

Great choice, the TCR is a brilliant bike and my two have both been robust and endurance friendly over the years. Make sure the previous owner fitted the right compound of brake pads for the carbon rims, or replace them before your first ride if you’re not certain.

 

[Omnis]

Great choice, the TCR is a brilliant bike and my two have both been robust and endurance friendly over the years. Make sure the previous owner fitted the right compound of brake pads for the carbon rims, or replace them before your first ride if you’re not certain.

My tri friend just DM'd me that she paid more for the same set of wheels than I did for the whole thing. Even if I get something with different geometry, how difficult is it to switch the SRAM Red gearset on this bike to the other? Besides mineral oil vs DOT fluid, is there anything particularly different about swapping around Shimano and SRAM? Derailleur hangers or something?

 

[Shaun]

Even if I get something with different geometry, how difficult is it to switch the SRAM Red gearset on this bike to the other?

Easy, lots of YouTube videos would explain it for you. Ask here also if needed and I as I'm sure others would be happy to explain any queries.

Besides mineral oil vs DOT fluid, is there anything particularly different about swapping around Shimano and SRAM?

Is that a picture of the actual bike,? If so it won't have any fluid as it has rim brakes so even easier to work on.

Derailleur hangers or something?

I don't think so, would need to check but I think they both use a 10mm thread. A change of cassette size though could necessitate and different length hanger.

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

Another abandoned Grand Tour for Roglic. The man crashes so much.

 

[Greycap]

I don't think so, would need to check but I think they both use a 10mm thread. A change of cassette size though could necessitate and different length hanger.

No need to check, the derailleur thread is universal. My Rockhopper above is a good example of this - it came from the factory with a MicroShift derailleur, which got replaced with an old SRAM from the archives, and now it has a brand new Shimano. Everything has bolted on with no tricks needed.

I've also never heard of different hangers for different cassettes, it's the derailleur itself that makes the difference in some cases. And it only works in one direction, you can shift a road cassette with a derailleur designed for a hugely wide range MTB cassette without any issues (again the RH above, with a 11-28 cassette and a derailleur capable of handling a 11-46) but not the other way round.

 

[Shaun]

I've also never heard of different hangers for different cassettes, it's the derailleur itself that makes the difference in some cases. And it only works in one direction, you can shift a road cassette with a derailleur designed for a hugely wide range MTB cassette without any issues (again the RH above, with a 11-28 cassette and a derailleur capable of handling a 11-46) but not the other way round.

Under normal circumstances and what @Omnis would be doing you are absolutely correct.

However (I'll use Shimano as an example because that's what I'm most familiar with) if you go outside of the manufacturer's range specs it can be useful.

As an example the normal setup on your bike is Dura Ace with a 11-25 cassette because you live in a very flat area. You have a planned trip away to a very mountainous area and want to cover your bases and put an Ultegra cassette on with a 34t cog. Due to Dura-Ace derailleurs only being short cage this on some frames can cause the upper jockey wheel to rub on the 34t cog. A longer hanger increases the gap and stops the rub.
It's not a normal situation and outside of Shimano specs but it works, I've done it.

 

[Omnis]

@Shaun after I posted that, I realized that, yes, it does have rim brakes and I'm a dummy. Haha. Thanks for the tips, boys. And, yes, that is THE ACTUAL bike. I picked it up today and it BARELY fit in my car with the rear seats flat. The saddle is indeed 84cm above the bottom bracket and it has a 130mm stem. It's freaking MASSIVE and I can't even mount it in order to ride (but the standover height is perfect). Whoever owned this bike in the past may have been an NBA player. Someone at least 6'7 and with just massive reach.

Once I have the seat mast cut to size I will hopefully be able to find a stem that'll have enough angle and be short enough to fit properly. Are 70mm stems super sketchy on a race geometry like this? I think I can come close to Roubaix measurements. Otherwise I'll just pick up a cheap Roubaix with FutureShock and make it into my wide-tires dedicated graveler.

 

[Shaun]

@Shaun after I posted that, I realized that, yes, it does have rim brakes and I'm a dummy. Haha. Thanks for the tips, boys. And, yes, that is THE ACTUAL bike. I picked it up today and it BARELY fit in my car with the rear seats flat. The saddle is indeed 84cm above the bottom bracket and it has a 130mm stem. It's freaking MASSIVE and I can't even mount it in order to ride (but the standover height is perfect). Whoever owned this bike in the past may have been an NBA player. Someone at least 6'7 and with just massive reach.

Once I have the seat mast cut to size I will hopefully be able to find a stem that'll have enough angle and be short enough to fit properly. Are 70mm stems super sketchy on a race geometry like this? I think I can come close to Roubaix measurements. Otherwise I'll just pick up a cheap Roubaix with FutureShock and make it into my wide-tires dedicated graveler.

View attachment 1191033

Lol yeah just by looking at the reach the guy must have been a monster.

A 70mm stem is pretty short and would make it twitchy, you would probably get used to it but I would try for something a bit longer to be honest.

 

[Omnis]

Lol yeah just by looking at the reach the guy must have been a monster.

A 70mm stem is pretty short and would make it twitchy, you would probably get used to it but I would try for something a bit longer to be honest.

I think 70 is the shortest I can get. My "fit" still felt quite long, but in any case I need to get the bars back and higher up as much as I can.

 

[Greycap]

It's not a normal situation and outside of Shimano specs but it works, I've done it.

"Not a normal situation and outside specs" is downplaying it just a bit. More akin to having trouble hammering a screw into a concrete wall, and fixing it by drilling a hole and filling the gap with epoxy afterwards to finish it off.

 

[Omnis]

Well, I've just realized that maybe Giant wasn't the best option after all, as their OverDrive2 steering tube is not a standard size. Luckily, they make a +/- 30 degree stem. I took the liberty of buying the 75mm one and will see if that gets the bars in the right spot. Probably not going to work with the available stems at my fitter, which is why I'm sure Giant never came up in the Guru Fit recommendations.

My hope is that I can jump back on the Guru-bot and see what handlebar position will work best before exchanging this one.

Bike will hopefully look something like this:

 

[Shaun]

I took the liberty of buying the 75mm one and will see if that gets the bars in the right spot

You'll be surprised also how much of a difference tilting the bars back a bit can shorten the reach as most of us spend about 90% of the time riding on the hoods anyway.

Hopefully it works out for you but if worst comes to worst you won't be losing money if you have to move the bike on.

 

[Omnis]

You'll be surprised also how much of a difference tilting the bars back a bit can shorten the reach as most of us spend about 90% of the time riding on the hoods anyway.

Hopefully it works out for you but if worst comes to worst you won't be losing money if you have to move the bike on.

Indeed. The position I was in felt like a bit of a stretch tbh. I'm hoping that the 2nd half of this fitting will actually get me comfortable because I otherwise feel like it's been the biggest waste of money in this whole process. Definitely wasn't what I was expecting, watching all these dudes on YouTube with all the crazy Q angle and cleat positioning and all that stuff. I'm also pretty sure I'm too heavy for the robot because I had to get off each time for any adjustments to be made, which kind of defeats the purpose of the guru fit imo. Also pedaling felt weird, like I kept clunking the crank instead of it being a smooth pedal. I just want to be able to ride a bike again. I hate all this worrying and waiting stuff.

 

[Solo]

Well, I've just realized that maybe Giant wasn't the best option after all, as their OverDrive2 steering tube is not a standard size. Luckily, they make a +/- 30 degree stem.

Check out Zipp stems. Their Service Course range has an OS sizing that fits the Giant OD2 steerer tube. I had to go with one when my bike fit recommended a 130mm stem vs the 110mm that was fitted and it has been brilliant.

Got the chimney cut shortly after this photo, not breaking the rules don’t worry 😂

 

[Shaun]

I'm hoping that the 2nd half of this fitting will actually get me comfortable because I otherwise feel like it's been the biggest waste of money in this whole process

I assume you mean this fit system?
Certainly looks like it should get a good fit at the end of the day, worst case scenario if they can't get you to fit the bike correctly you will have a report outlining the exact measurements you need for all the important axis. If need be this will help if you need to buy another bike and then with measurements in hand set the bike up yourself so I wouldn't say a total waste of money.

I have the CAD drawing from my measure and fit so if I where to ever ride another bike I could at least be able to set it up as close as possible barring any restrictions that my current bike being custom built for me would throw up, I would still get an off the shelf bike very close in measurement.

You'll now be in a very similar boat, getting a good fit which you can then transfer to other bikes is a very important part of making cycling comfortable and fun so don't despair. 👍

I'm also pretty sure I'm too heavy for the robot because I had to get off each time for any adjustments to be made,

That does seem odd, referring back to my fit again it was all done with me on the bike. Granted I'm a much smaller guy but surely that would be factored in? If there is a weight limit on their system they should have pointed that out to you prior. I'd guess you would end up with the same result but it would be a pain in the arse getting on an off all the time. If I recall correctly they would have made around 40 minor adjustments during my fit and only getting off the bike to adjust my cleats.

Also pedaling felt weird, like I kept clunking the crank instead of it being a smooth pedal.

That sounds like you need longer axle pedals, my mate had the exact same issue. You can also buy spacers (I think) to use your current pedals. The fitter should have picked up on that straight away if your heels are hitting the cranks. Do they have a camera monitoring pedal stoke from behind do you know?
At the end of the day you can have all the best equipment available but it's down to how the guy performing the fit uses it.
You mention that you have to go back for a 2nd part of the fitting so perhaps the 1st was to just get a very rough base line to work from and they will sort out all the issues in the second.

 

[Omnis]

I assume you mean this fit system?

Yep.

Certainly looks like it should get a good fit at the end of the day, worst case scenario if they can't get you to fit the bike correctly you will have a report outlining the exact measurements you need for all the important axis. If need be this will help if you need to buy another bike and then with measurements in hand set the bike up yourself so I wouldn't say a total waste of money.

I have the CAD drawing from my measure and fit so if I where to ever ride another bike I could at least be able to set it up as close as possible barring any restrictions that my current bike being custom built for me would throw up, I would still get an off the shelf bike very close in measurement.

You'll now be in a very similar boat, getting a good fit which you can then transfer to other bikes is a very important part of making cycling comfortable and fun so don't despair. 👍

That's what I was hoping for, but my report just has the coordinates of the seat and bar on the robot. I didn't get a CAD drawing of my ideal frame, but rather a bunch of suggestions of different bikes (pretty much just Roubaix, Synapse, Allez), ie pretty much all the same bike with their recommended set-ups for different stem lengths and angles. But, I mean, I did my research and spent the time on Geometry Geeks and 99 Spokes and these kinds of sites, so I feel like it wasn't as much of a revelation that I matched with what I was already looking at.

Then again, after all that I still somehow wound up with a Giant racing bike.

That does seem odd, referring back to my fit again it was all done with me on the bike. Granted I'm a much smaller guy but surely that would be factored in? If there is a weight limit on their system they should have pointed that out to you prior. I'd guess you would end up with the same result but it would be a pain in the arse getting on an off all the time. If I recall correctly they would have made around 40 minor adjustments during my fit and only getting off the bike to adjust my cleats.

Sorry, not the crank arm. I meant that the chainring seemed to be clunking or pulling slack out of the chain as I was pedaling. Like, instead of a smooth sine wave, it felt like a square wave of power. Does this commonly happen with bikes? I'm used to big flywheel spin bikes averaging 220 W over an hour, so I don't know if my downstroke is stomping the crap out of the driveline and maybe they just didn't have any resistance set on the robot to soak up that momentum.

You mention that you have to go back for a 2nd part of the fitting so perhaps the 1st was to just get a very rough base line to work from and they will sort out all the issues in the second.

Yes, I'm pretty sure that's what's going to happen. That's what I'm hoping for, anyway. I know my friend's Tri bike fitting was pretty involved and she personally recommended all this to me. But, you know, I'm going in there without even having a bike to start with.

Check out Zipp stems. Their Service Course range has an OS sizing that fits the Giant OD2 steerer tube. I had to go with one when my bike fit recommended a 130mm stem vs the 110mm that was fitted and it has been brilliant.

I did see that, but the most extreme stem they have is a 25 degree 75mm. I went with Giant's 30 deg 75mm. Remember, I'm trying to band-aid endurance geometry onto a massive race frame. Gotta start with the extreme to test for viability.

 

[TB]

I FINALLY went on my first ride in over a year today. I was all of 7 miles to the library and back but it's something.

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

I FINALLY went on my first ride in over a year today. I was all of 7 miles to the library and back but it's something.

Good to see you back!

I did my first "group" ride today, a gravel grind of 49 miles and about 4,000ft of climbing. It was a lot of fun though I'm not sure I've ever been dirtier. Went with a friend who is in a crew so I'm thinking of joining said crew. Some of them were a little bit faster on some of the climbs but I was able to keep up pretty well.

 

[TB]

I had to do an extra lap around my block but I doubled yesterday's ride from 7.0 to 14.09 miles.

I am so out of shape.

 

[Shaun]

I am so out of shape.

So hard to gain so easy to lose.

 

[Omnis]

With the studio closing next week, I've been riding pretty much every day and going full send each time.

Next Saturday at the final ride I'm gonna just go all out and try to break 20 miles, maybe 350W average for the class.

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

299 watts at 69rpm for 45 minutes? My knees would be obliterated.

Differential between max cadence and avg cadence is enormous! I'm a spinner but I don't think I could do 136rpm or at least not for longer than a few seconds.

On a ride last Friday I managed to average about 3.0-3.1w/kg for an hour and fifteen minutes which I'm pretty sure is a personal record. After I settled into the ride I just felt like I had a lot of juice in the legs so I just kept the hammer down. I was on my 23lb 650b gravel bike so no PBs on any of the major climbs, but I was damn close to my best times on my road bike.

 

[Omnis]

299 watts at 69rpm for 45 minutes? My knees would be obliterated.

Differential between max cadence and avg cadence is enormous! I'm a spinner but I don't think I could do 136rpm or at least not for longer than a few seconds.

On a ride last Friday I managed to average about 3.0-3.1w/kg for an hour and fifteen minutes which I'm pretty sure is a personal record. After I settled into the ride I just felt like I had a lot of juice in the legs so I just kept the hammer down. I was on my 23lb 650b gravel bike so no PBs on any of the major climbs, but I was damn close to my best times on my road bike.

Keep in mind, I'm still 280ish pounds/130kg, so it's easier for me to make torque through the cranks. The average cadence goes way down because we stop for 5 minutes to do arms and between climbs/sprints I'm only doing like 30-40rpm while I'm wiping the sweat off of myself and the bars. PWR/Weight is still something around "1.8" but I think they have that in W/lb so that's a terrible look for me. We have some dudes and girls that are doing 4s and 6s, though. So that's impressive (I have a feeling the dude never put his weight in the system).

I think the centralized system is more accurate than the bike module over the entire ride, but FWIW:

And, yes, these peak cadences and power figures I can only sustain for like 8-10 seconds at most. It would be cooler if they gave you highest averages sustained over 5 seconds, 10s, 30s, etc. They can do all that on the data recorder, but it doesn't get displayed by the Stages bike module. That session was every girl vs me after getting wasted the night before during the storm, lol. I would try to do 2.5 miles before every girl did 1, bunch of other mini challenges, etc. I'll miss it when they close on Sunday!

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

Keep in mind, I'm still 280ish pounds/130kg, so it's easier for me to make torque through the cranks. The average cadence goes way down because we stop for 5 minutes to do arms and between climbs/sprints I'm only doing like 30-40rpm while I'm wiping the sweat off of myself and the bars. PWR/Weight is still something around "1.8" but I think they have that in W/lb so that's a terrible look for me. We have some dudes and girls that are doing 4s and 6s, though. So that's impressive (I have a feeling the dude never put his weight in the system).

I think the centralized system is more accurate than the bike module over the entire ride, but FWIW:

View attachment 1196189

And, yes, these peak cadences and power figures I can only sustain for like 8-10 seconds at most. It would be cooler if they gave you highest averages sustained over 5 seconds, 10s, 30s, etc. They can do all that on the data recorder, but it doesn't get displayed by the Stages bike module. That session was every girl vs me after getting wasted the night before during the storm, lol. I would try to do 2.5 miles before every girl did 1, bunch of other mini challenges, etc. I'll miss it when they close on Sunday!

Seriously who is over there turning 47rpm?

 

[Omnis]

Seriously who is over there turning 47rpm?

12 and 13 are the two old ladies. They both got to around 250 KJ so they did great lol

 

[girabyt3]

Almost two years later (from stock and a half-year later drivetrain swap)....

Yep, despite my bank almost having a stroke (don't worry since I had my savings), "Cityzen Kane" is finally almost finished!!

The Maxxis hold their shape nicely (well, the front one at least, the rear is more worn obviously) despite daily commute and trail use so they stay, so is the fork although it's almost worn out (give it half a year more or so), and the AceKit Jessica 760mm handlebars/Zoom Fox 35mm stem combo still give me great stability and hold their shape despite a very few crashes! But almost EVERYTHING else is new!!




No more 3x7!! Welcome wide-range 1x11!! (Weapon Hammer 34t 1x crankset with hollow BB, KMC 11s chain, LTWOO 11-50 11spd cassette, Deore clutch 12spd derraileur (range is the same as a 12spd, so it's cool) and 11spd Deore shifter). As my previous wide-range 3x7 proved me, I just need range, not to many-and-more-expensive cogs, hell, I would have gone for a full Microshift Advent X 10spd 11-48 if I wanted, but stores don't sell those ones over here, so 1x11 it is!



Also, since my previous Evolve lite freehubs had their daily run almost since I got "Cityzen Kane", and also since the stock rims already were giving me trouble, I decided "¿why not? Swap them up already!". New 32-spokes ARC MT001 hubs w. New Aluminum spokes and Aerolite XM30 rims! ❤️

And, the "almost" part in "almost everything new"... Used-but-with-not-too-many-use (Changed the pads so don't worry) Shimano M4100/MT410 2-piston hydraulic brakes! 1st time I got hydraulics since my brother's old hardtail with m315s! 160mm Shimano disc brakes included! . I could have gone for brand-new MT200s, but when I saw these ones on marketplace, I didn't think it twice... I also changed the grips a while back since the old silicone rockbros were just crap and lasted me very little, these Skulls grips are way better than any other grip I I've had! ❤️



All is lefting in "Cityzen Kane" is the fork (Obviously), an external 27.2mm dropper post (only thing I don't like about my bike), a chainguide and, since I have to in order to have more fork options, the headset, and for the latter I already have my eyes on one!

Reason is simple, my headtube is not tapered despite looking like it (trust me, I've tried before with bad luck)... There's some very good budget-friendy long travel straight-tube forks over here, but since tapered ones have a bit more travel, and since it's an upgrade after all, why not?!... Another reason why I picked this FSA is because Wolftick used it in a video and left the link so people can pick it up! No more proofs needed!



I can't wait to see "Cityzen Kane" finally turned into a trail-Enduro Hardtail on its second birthday!! ❤️

 

[Omnis]

Stem worked out perfect and we re-did the bartape with Silca Cuscino 3.75. Feels like a dream. The bike is fast AF. Wind resistance is a little extreme, lol. Also, whoever asked me about the brake pads, good job. My fitter saw that I had cork pads and didn't let me leave until he changed them for carbon ones. He's like, "Cork was the only thing we had in 2013, but you'd stop faster by dragging your foot before these did anything." I'm glad I changed them, too, because the cork barely stopped the free spinning wheel and at my weight braking during my first ride was SKETCHY LOL.

 

[Omnis]

My favorite part about going down to Mack Cycle is that people just casually stop by with their bikes and it's so nonchalant, but you're standing next to things that cost more than your car.

I saw one of those sweet Lauf forks in person for the first time today. Such an awesome bike, this Cannondale...

 

[Shaun]

but you're standing next to things that cost more than your car.

Haha yeah I understand.

When asked what did your bike cost I don't say the price but around the cost of a new small Korean car.

Is it outrageous, yes but if it's your passion and you're in a position to do it why not.