The DIY-ers corner
- Thread starter Jet Badger
- 342 comments
- 35,970 views
- 185
- East Coast, USA
- EnzoOwnerFEARME
Since I have no school for a bit, and I doubt playing video-games all day would be good, I've decided to make a two-story parking-garage-thingy for 1/64 cars. I've made loads of stuff out of cardboard already, so this shouldn't be tough.
- 9,188
- United Kingdom
- neema_t
I made this in under an hour using scrap MDF on our CNC router while waiting for a work party to start today, it's a quick test for a shelf for my turntable with space for my amp underneath, designed to go on top of the bench we've got next to our TV. I got some dimensions wrong because I'm stupid (it's neither wide enough nor tall enough for my amp to fit underneath!) and my girlfriend and I have agreed that a sideboard would be better, so guess what I have to design over next weeks' lunch breaks!
Edit: It would help if I took and then attached a photo. One moment please. Oh wait, I have this one:
Edit: It would help if I took and then attached a photo. One moment please. Oh wait, I have this one:
- 35,498
- Downtown North Dakota
- Cy-Fi
Your CNC router is larger but a friend just bought one for his shop and told me to bring over a piece of pallet wood for my theater room but wouldn't tell me why. When I got to his house yesterday, he sanded one side smooth, ran it through the band saw to make it a uniform thickness, clamped it down in the CNC and fired up a file. After it finished, he rounded over the corners and sanded it up a bit again. Result:
Custom cover plate for my receptacle!
- 31,744
- Buckwheat City
- Dennisch
I don't know if any of you drunks around here know this beer:
Brugse Zot, my dad loves it. And that inspired him to be creative, but he failed. He tried to paint the logo on the glass of a lamppost but the colors mixed up and thus he gave up.
Dennisch to the rescue with an even more creative thingy!

First I printed the logo, mirrored but that wasn't the way to go so I turned the paper over and mirrored it back with pen (I was already in my shed and didn't feel like walking back home to print the original)
Taped the paper to 0.5 mm sheet metal and with a pointy thingy I created a connect the dots drawing on the metal. Took the paper off, connected the dots with the pointy thingy by scratching. And then I took a hammer and a couple of old screwdrivers, those with the metal going through the handle and hammered away for a good 3 hours. But
Result!
Now all it needs is paint and my dads Christmas present is done.
Edit.
My hands hurt like **** btw!
Brugse Zot, my dad loves it. And that inspired him to be creative, but he failed. He tried to paint the logo on the glass of a lamppost but the colors mixed up and thus he gave up.
Dennisch to the rescue with an even more creative thingy!

First I printed the logo, mirrored but that wasn't the way to go so I turned the paper over and mirrored it back with pen (I was already in my shed and didn't feel like walking back home to print the original)
Taped the paper to 0.5 mm sheet metal and with a pointy thingy I created a connect the dots drawing on the metal. Took the paper off, connected the dots with the pointy thingy by scratching. And then I took a hammer and a couple of old screwdrivers, those with the metal going through the handle and hammered away for a good 3 hours. But
Result!
Now all it needs is paint and my dads Christmas present is done.
Edit.
My hands hurt like **** btw!
- 31,744
- Buckwheat City
- Dennisch
I am on an inspirational roll lately.
I had one of those midnight brilliant moments last night.
I mentioned before I was in the process of building myself a new cabinet for the tv and stuff. Last night's moment was about the doors. Why open them the normal way if you can make it difficult for myself and let them hinge sideways?!
Googled a bit. Lateral swing hinges are silly expensive. 130 dollarydoos for 2 hinges. That's one door. Nope.
I figured that before I go full scale I'd make a small mockup to see if my idea works.
This was 45 minutes of quick cutting, bending, drilling and a bit of welding. I made it with only one hinge just to see if it worked with a single pivotpoint and arm (the store bought hinges are far more complex) but it works, albeit wobbly.
Bonus video!
See? Wobbly!
- 7,369
- Houston, TX
- ryandude2448
I've been wanting to get back in to wood crafting and the like, so I'm starting with the basics. Made this for my secret Santa at work.
It's not even dry yet so the lighting made taking a pic a *****, but I'm OK with the results. I cut out a hangar on the back which was surprisingly easy.
It's not even dry yet so the lighting made taking a pic a *****, but I'm OK with the results. I cut out a hangar on the back which was surprisingly easy.
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- 31,744
- Buckwheat City
- Dennisch
I have to let this first coat of paint dry, then I can do all the colors again, and then trace all black with a fine brush. The black you see now is anti rust primer.
Again. Not bad for a first time. My hand is steadier than I imagined.
- 31,744
- Buckwheat City
- Dennisch
Finished! Test hang on my own wall and it looks good.
Time to wrap it up and toss it under my parents Christmas tree.
Also. Working with tiny brushes for longer periods makes my arm cramp. Clearly I'm not used to handling small things.
- 9,188
- United Kingdom
- neema_t
Tonight, after a day of installing robots for our upcoming exhibition, doing some AV setups for tonight's Science Late event, taking those setups down again then helping to install Tim Peake's Soyuz capsule (and parachute, never forget the parachute), I used our CNC router to make myself a tabletop to convert my current "desk" (a folding table with rounded wings) into a desk. I'll post photos when it's really ready but it'll need some sanding, varnishing and at least one additional leg before then. Also some assembly.
- 3,475
- Vilnius
Speaking of CNC machinery... Made this little relay board the other day for a friend, who has converted an older semi-computerised mill into a full CNC one. The relays are to turn on and off two signals for the spindle VFD. One for forward rotation, and one for reverse. It had to be done manually before. A bit more automatised now. 
There needs to be a way to control the speed of the spindle directly from the computer too, just that for now there wasn't much time to figure what sort of VFD that is and what sort of signal and settings it accepts. I've never even touched one so don't really know.
There needs to be a way to control the speed of the spindle directly from the computer too, just that for now there wasn't much time to figure what sort of VFD that is and what sort of signal and settings it accepts. I've never even touched one so don't really know.
- 9,188
- United Kingdom
- neema_t
So, that desk I mentioned. I've got it home and sanded it pretty smooth, it'll never be perfect but it's easily good enough for use as a table top, though I might try to round the front edge slightly. I have a question for the woodworkers (shamelessly tagging @Jet Badger, @kikie, @Dennisch, aaaand @TB), though:
How do I seal this thing, as in make it hand sweat- and drink-proof? It's roughly 1.2x1m, 18mm plywood (possibly marine grade, it's that kind of colour and a bit rough), do I varnish it? I've read that if you varnish then sand it three times you get a pretty smooth finish. Is that true? Some sub-questions if I may:
1. What kind of varnish would be best? It's quite dark as it is and I don't really want it to get much darker. Are there alternatives? Is stained or oiled wood waterproof?
2. Is basic normal varnish (if that exists) harmful at all? Like if I varnished it in the room where I am all the time except for when I'm at work or sleeping, would I develop a nasty condition while it dries? I know epoxy is pretty nasty stuff but I'm not interested in that...
3. How about when you sand varnished wood? I know you should wear PPE when sanding uncoated wood anyway, but does varnish elevate the PPE requirement to a 'if you don't at least wear a mask you're a complete tool who will be dead in six months' level?
4. Do I need to keep it flat while the varnish dries? How about dust? My flat is kind of dusty and doing it outside isn't an option because a) I have nothing to put it on and b) outside basically means on the pavement, which means I can't leave it unsupervised. I was thinking I'd put some plastic sheeting on the floor and wall and do it with the tabletop almost vertical against the wall...?
5. Sanding; what kind of grit? Fine? Coarse? What's the objective of sanding, to remove brush strokes?
6. How long would it take to complete from start to finish?
I mean I could ask the woodies at work but then they'd know who took that 1x1.5m scrap of plywood they were saving, and I'm trying to avoid that until they forget about it.
Cheers!
How do I seal this thing, as in make it hand sweat- and drink-proof? It's roughly 1.2x1m, 18mm plywood (possibly marine grade, it's that kind of colour and a bit rough), do I varnish it? I've read that if you varnish then sand it three times you get a pretty smooth finish. Is that true? Some sub-questions if I may:
1. What kind of varnish would be best? It's quite dark as it is and I don't really want it to get much darker. Are there alternatives? Is stained or oiled wood waterproof?
2. Is basic normal varnish (if that exists) harmful at all? Like if I varnished it in the room where I am all the time except for when I'm at work or sleeping, would I develop a nasty condition while it dries? I know epoxy is pretty nasty stuff but I'm not interested in that...
3. How about when you sand varnished wood? I know you should wear PPE when sanding uncoated wood anyway, but does varnish elevate the PPE requirement to a 'if you don't at least wear a mask you're a complete tool who will be dead in six months' level?
4. Do I need to keep it flat while the varnish dries? How about dust? My flat is kind of dusty and doing it outside isn't an option because a) I have nothing to put it on and b) outside basically means on the pavement, which means I can't leave it unsupervised. I was thinking I'd put some plastic sheeting on the floor and wall and do it with the tabletop almost vertical against the wall...?
5. Sanding; what kind of grit? Fine? Coarse? What's the objective of sanding, to remove brush strokes?
6. How long would it take to complete from start to finish?
I mean I could ask the woodies at work but then they'd know who took that 1x1.5m scrap of plywood they were saving, and I'm trying to avoid that until they forget about it.
Cheers!
- 31,744
- Buckwheat City
- Dennisch
Sanding is down to taste. But if you want it smooth I'd say use waterproof sandpaper. That's something like 1000 grain or even finer. The wood itself, I used 120 as the final one to get it smooth enough for me. I didn't sand the greywash, I rolled it on and was happy with it.
To make it water and smudge proof, you can use a clear lacquer.
To make it water and smudge proof, you can use a clear lacquer.
- 7,689
- Michigan
- Rallywgn81
Finally got my wood lathe setup!
Thats it before I cleaned it and properly mounted it. I also made a few modifications to that table, adding a few 2x6s to the sides and back for added support and rigidity to handle the lathe. I also cut out a square in the center. I have the lathe setup to come off easily, three bolts for the lathe itself, and a couple of nuts to take off the motor. the center is then setup to mount my router, circular saw or jig saw. A full complement wood working table. I may end up channeling some 4x4s to bolster up the legs and swap out the current casters with a set of bigger ones that lock. Just gotta mount my dremel "drill press" and smaller vise, add some proper power and the table is good to go.
The next step though is to build a jig to sharpen my turning chisels. Not sure that the guy I bought this from ever sharpened them and even new chisels need sharpening. But, I did manage to get the lathe going last night and turn a piece of some scrap slats I have laying around. I knew there was a good reason I kept all of that when rebuilding the deck years ago... So, without further ado, my first piece of turned wood ever... Not to bad for a first go on dull chisels...
The next step though is to build a jig to sharpen my turning chisels. Not sure that the guy I bought this from ever sharpened them and even new chisels need sharpening. But, I did manage to get the lathe going last night and turn a piece of some scrap slats I have laying around. I knew there was a good reason I kept all of that when rebuilding the deck years ago... So, without further ado, my first piece of turned wood ever... Not to bad for a first go on dull chisels...
- 3,475
- Vilnius
- 7,689
- Michigan
- Rallywgn81
Got some better pics now.
I've only turned that one piece of baluster wood, so no... Can't say that I've run into a need for a bigger one... Yet.
Don't let the pictures fool you. I'm not gonna make trunk sized bowls, but it's a fair bit larger than the ol pen lathe. It will turn pieces up to 12" in diameter (recommended, I'm sure larger will fit though) and at least 3 feet long. Maybe 4. Didn't really measure length to be honest.
That said, I think once I am up to the task skills wise to try my hand at spinning a huge trunk for a bowl, with a new motor and bearings, I think it will be up to the task. I'll need to drop the pipe and build a proper stand as well. That's not an issue though, and even more not something I'll likely worry about for another year or more.
Here's the portion of the table for the "modular" equipment section I plan on adding in. The top picture on this post, bottom right is my router "table" that I'll be setting in the open section. I was going to use the table saw in the background of the second picture, but it's table is about half an inch thicker that everything else I plan on using. So instead I'll be mounting a circular saw to some MDF. I'm putting a single lift whole in the blank, so I think I'll double up and also add some screw holes for my jigsaw. Make a poor man's band saw.
Don't mind the notch. That was for something that didn't pan out. I have a few other tools that this might work well for. But they are for metal working. I may look into metal options of the same nature. Wood can be strangely flammable around hit steel.
I have a bunch more ideas for the table, including drawers to fill up the shelves, prior electrical hook up, lighting, etc. But I think my last project for the time being is making a sharpening jig and finally using the lathe.
I've only turned that one piece of baluster wood, so no... Can't say that I've run into a need for a bigger one... Yet.
Don't let the pictures fool you. I'm not gonna make trunk sized bowls, but it's a fair bit larger than the ol pen lathe. It will turn pieces up to 12" in diameter (recommended, I'm sure larger will fit though) and at least 3 feet long. Maybe 4. Didn't really measure length to be honest.
That said, I think once I am up to the task skills wise to try my hand at spinning a huge trunk for a bowl, with a new motor and bearings, I think it will be up to the task. I'll need to drop the pipe and build a proper stand as well. That's not an issue though, and even more not something I'll likely worry about for another year or more.
Here's the portion of the table for the "modular" equipment section I plan on adding in. The top picture on this post, bottom right is my router "table" that I'll be setting in the open section. I was going to use the table saw in the background of the second picture, but it's table is about half an inch thicker that everything else I plan on using. So instead I'll be mounting a circular saw to some MDF. I'm putting a single lift whole in the blank, so I think I'll double up and also add some screw holes for my jigsaw. Make a poor man's band saw.
Don't mind the notch. That was for something that didn't pan out. I have a few other tools that this might work well for. But they are for metal working. I may look into metal options of the same nature. Wood can be strangely flammable around hit steel.
I have a bunch more ideas for the table, including drawers to fill up the shelves, prior electrical hook up, lighting, etc. But I think my last project for the time being is making a sharpening jig and finally using the lathe.
Attachments
- 3,475
- Vilnius
Very clever stuff, @Rallywagon 👍 You might just have given me an idea with the circular table saw thing. 
Meanwhile I made a subwoofer box today.
A very handy tool that I saw somebody use in a YouTube video. Such precision.
Meanwhile I made a subwoofer box today.
A very handy tool that I saw somebody use in a YouTube video. Such precision.
- 7,689
- Michigan
- Rallywgn81
One should never underestimate the importance of a good square. Success or failure can rest... squarely... On a straight, or lack of, line.
A useful tip for checking squareness of a square, or box. The ol Pythagorean 3, 4, 5 trick. Measure 3 units on one axis, 4 on the other and the distances measured between should be 5 if all is square. May have already knew that, but I'll be damned if it didnt change my life when I found it out.
Well then, that all squared away, I'm plumb out of the will to say square again...
Btw. Nice little box Badger. What's it going in? Is that just a CAD program you used to blueprint the box? Not sure if you've seen this site or not, but it's really handy when trying to figure out sizes and dimensions for the sound you are looking for. https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxVolume/
Weather is going to be warming back up tomorrow, so I'll be finishing off that table. I'll get some pictures up once I'm done with it.
A useful tip for checking squareness of a square, or box. The ol Pythagorean 3, 4, 5 trick. Measure 3 units on one axis, 4 on the other and the distances measured between should be 5 if all is square. May have already knew that, but I'll be damned if it didnt change my life when I found it out.
Well then, that all squared away, I'm plumb out of the will to say square again...
Btw. Nice little box Badger. What's it going in? Is that just a CAD program you used to blueprint the box? Not sure if you've seen this site or not, but it's really handy when trying to figure out sizes and dimensions for the sound you are looking for. https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxVolume/
Weather is going to be warming back up tomorrow, so I'll be finishing off that table. I'll get some pictures up once I'm done with it.
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- 35,498
- Downtown North Dakota
- Cy-Fi
Yes, Solidworks is a CAD program.
- 3,475
- Vilnius
Bought a Rockford Fosgate P110S4 it's called I think, cheap 10" woofer. I actually used the calculator on their website to figure out the volume, which is pretty nice to use. I tried to match the volume recommended for the speaker in a sealed box, which is something around 18.5 liters, or 0.65 ft^3 from what I remember now.
Solidworks is just what I use for work and then other mocking about, probably not ideal for making boxes like this, but definitely makes it easier than drawing it off hand. Nonetheless I did make some rookie mistakes while cutting the pieces like not doing matching dimensions in a single pass, which is why it did turn out with some uneven seams. But that will have to do this time.
- 7,689
- Michigan
- Rallywgn81
Uneven seams? I call that character! Bob Ross would approve!
- 3,475
- Vilnius
So I had a go at fixing the amp, which I found out not to work in bridged configuration. Spent a full day today trying to find the issue, at the end it turned out to be just a faulty filter selector switch. People on an audio forum pretty much pointed that out to me, otherwise I would've danced around not being able to find it ever.
Just ripped the bad switch out and soldered jumpers to set it in off position for LPF/HPF. I can use the LPF in the head unit anyway. Though probably it would've made more sense to put it in LPF mode. Oh well, atleast it works now
Just ripped the bad switch out and soldered jumpers to set it in off position for LPF/HPF. I can use the LPF in the head unit anyway. Though probably it would've made more sense to put it in LPF mode. Oh well, atleast it works now
- 3,475
- Vilnius
Might aswell post here too. Wrapped the box in carpet. Indistinguishable from a store bought one now, turned out pretty well 
- 1,407
- Gold Coast, Australia
- Paintguzzlinpete
- RepairedCarrot8
First DIY project I've done for a little while that wasn't reno-related;
Did it over five days which was stupid but wanted it done for my girlfriend's baby shower. Luckily we had some awful weather so I got a few half days at work or I never would've gotten it done. It needs a good sand and I'll stain it once it dries out completely. Due to the time frame I rushed a few of the joints and they came out fairly average but now that it's all together is super sturdy and not moving. Ever. It weighs a tonne.
Did it over five days which was stupid but wanted it done for my girlfriend's baby shower. Luckily we had some awful weather so I got a few half days at work or I never would've gotten it done. It needs a good sand and I'll stain it once it dries out completely. Due to the time frame I rushed a few of the joints and they came out fairly average but now that it's all together is super sturdy and not moving. Ever. It weighs a tonne.
- 7,689
- Michigan
- Rallywgn81
A few more pieces of equipment have arrived! Got a pressure pot, bowl gouge and dyes to be used with the alumilite that also arrived not to long ago. Got to get get some attachments to get the pot hooked up to my compressor, but definitely looking forward to casting and turning some things with this stuff.
- 9,188
- United Kingdom
- neema_t
I finally got around to completing the first ever wood finishing job I've ever undertaken, it came out pretty badly because I don't know what I'm doing and I'm fairly sure the quick-drying varnish I used dried a little too quickly so I couldn't give it an even coat. Also you can see the hole where I ran the cutting tool into it after I finished cutting it - that's what you get for doing CNC work at ~3am or whenever it was.
So basically I think I might cover it with something, I'm thinking either neoprene or a cutting mat so my girlfriend could use it for work. Any thoughts?
Next step: drill and tap holes for helicoil inserts so it can be attached to the existing table legs, then mount the other legs on it. It's going to look awful but I've got plans for the next step - ask someone with experience if they'll finish the next one I cut out!
