The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
  • 2,160,969 views
Okay, I received a mail from Thrustmaster including a PDF file (9 pages) about how to replace the switches (15')

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2354283/5076163replacement.pdf

The T500RS spare part paddle shifts kit (5076163) include:

- 2 new tact switches (10.000.000 cycle life)
- 2 new compression springs (no more need for the foam parts) + wires and connectors
- 4 new compression springs (for the force - longer than the initial springs)

16,4 € shipping included seems pretty much OK to me.
I do like the way Thrustmaster deals with their customers.
I had some issues with broken accelerator springs, they kept sending replacement springs for free (up to now I guess since my wheel is now older than 2 years...
Always direct response to mails, very friendly guys, also on the phone... 👍
 
So I've starting to notice some issue with my wheel, its almost a year old at this point. I notice the LED on the unit flickers on and off sometime during use, or just seem dimmer than usual. And then sometimes mid race the FFB would just cuts out completely. Sometime it comes back, others times it won't and I have to unplug the USB and plug it back it and the wheel kind resets itself. Is there something known to break or comes loose or something is failing in the unit? This is on PS3 and GT6.
 
Fan on my replacement V.5 went loud a few weeks ago, Thrustmaster kindly sent me a replacement....
...since I had to open T500 anyway, I used opportunity to go with @LogiForce's Noctua fan recommendation.

If you are in NA, eBay seller mibupoco sells a 3-pin to 2-pin Cable Adapter Fan Cable.
Make sure you get the YA-D2P style, there are variations, I had no fan direction issues.

The adapter's wires ^ are a wee bit on the short side, but will work if you don't thread fan's cabling though
the 2 clips below the fan's new spot adjacent to the motor. The clips are just for cosmetic wire routing purposes.

Wheel runs so much quieter & cooler now. If you haven't done it yet, do it, thanks @LogiForce.
 
Last edited:
Fan on my replacement V.5 went loud a few weeks ago, Thrustmaster kindly sent me a replacement....
...since I had to open T500 anyway, I used opportunity to go with @LogiForce's Noctua fan recommendation.

If you are in NA, eBay seller mibupoco sells a 3-pin to 2-pin Cable Adapter Fan Cable.
Make sure you get the YA-D2P style, there are variations, I had no fan direction issues.

The adapter's wires ^ are a wee bit on the short side, but will work if you don't thread fan's cabling though
the 2 clips below the fan's new spot adjacent to the motor. The clips are just for cosmetic wire routing purposes.

Wheel runs so much quieter & cooler now. If you haven't done it yet, do it, thanks @LogiForce.

Glad to hear you like the Noctua upgrade, mate. Mine is still going strong and quiet as well (dad uses my T500 nowadays). It's a much more durable solution to the fan issue for sure.
 
Had this wheel for about 6 months now, the problem is when I hit a curb the wheel rattles a lot (noisy shake), this wasn't too bad, but now with the GT6 1.09 update it's got much worse.
Is this normal for this wheel.
I only play GT6.


So I'm back on the subject of the rattle from my wheel which I have had since December.
I did some rally races in GT6 and the noisy rattle is really bad.
Does anyone else use this wheel for rallying in GT6 that could tell me how noisy their wheel is during rally...
I will try to put a video up later of this...
Cheers....
 
Any advice about how to calibrate the brake with GT6? I tried a couple of times with the stock brake mod to re-calibrate but without any luck... aka pressing the brake nothing happens at all.
 
gh3
Any advice about how to calibrate the brake with GT6? I tried a couple of times with the stock brake mod to re-calibrate but without any luck... aka pressing the brake nothing happens at all.

As the manual says,do not calibrate the pedals when the wheel calibrates. I usually wait until I go into my first race,once on the track. If that doesn't work,you may have a potentiometer problem in the brake pedal. Do the do the pedals work?
 
gh3
Any advice about how to calibrate the brake with GT6? I tried a couple of times with the stock brake mod to re-calibrate but without any luck... aka pressing the brake nothing happens at all.
I start the game, wait for the wheel to calibrate and then push brake (4") and then accelerator (also 4") to the point I want.
Never had issues with it.
But even without calibrating: if your brake does not work at all, you may have a problem with the potentiometer (as @NABeast wrote).
 
Yep the pedals works fine without the stock real brake mod, once I add it I'm not able anymore to brake because the max excursion of the brake is not calibrated to be set as max brake.
 
gh3
Yep the pedals works fine without the stock real brake mod, once I add it I'm not able anymore to brake because the max excursion of the brake is not calibrated to be set as max brake.

I personally don't like that brake mod. The manual says with the brake mod "you may have to momentarily stand on the brake pedal to calibrate". It's too stiff and not progressive enough. I ended up getting a ricmotech adapter,and went back the the G27 pedals with the GTeye brake spring.
 
Hey guys, as I dont really know where else to post this I am selling my T500 that I bought 600 for 399. It is in near mint condition as I only used it for Snail weekend races. Everything works as it should and I am only getting rid of it because I barely have any time for sim racing anymore. Paypal only! PM me if interested. (Admins please direct me if there is a better thread to post this on)
 
Willing to bet I have the worst condition T500RS... in the woooorld. Ignore the accent, I think I was clear enough. The wheel's FFB is still working fine though, although my fan stopped working last year. The brake pedal's potentiometer is wrecked, I don't know if I can find a replacement. Might try g27 pedals if I can find 'em cheap. I have big plans for the rig, it's terrible in its current form.

I just ordered a DSD quick attach wheel adapter too. I'll be going shopping for a new fan and screw for the hub since mine is rusted and crumbly.

 
I eventually managed to revert to 4.1, everything works as it should now. Thrustmaster sent me new drivers to try out (2014_TTRS_2_RC2), I probably will not until next week.

Having the same issue... I bought a new Gaming pc and all usb hubs accept 2 in the front are 3.0. I plugged it in and tried to install. after the wheel started to calibrate everything shut down. and that is the last time it went on. The power brick indicates a blue light and there is definitely power as the pc recognizes when I plug the wheel in. but no red or green and no sign of life.
Tried to revert to 2013 ttrs_2 and it recognizes the wheel but when I run the firmware update it throws up a error message after trying to install the v41 firmware. Error: 0x000000. I 2013_TRRS_4 and tried every every suggestion online, hold l3 and r3, restart use different ports other pc's, try on ps3... nothing.

how did you manage to revert back to v41?
 
Okay, I received a mail from Thrustmaster including a PDF file (9 pages) about how to replace the switches (15')

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2354283/5076163replacement.pdf

The T500RS spare part paddle shifts kit (5076163) include:

- 2 new tact switches (10.000.000 cycle life)
- 2 new compression springs (no more need for the foam parts) + wires and connectors
- 4 new compression springs (for the force - longer than the initial springs)

16,4 € shipping included seems pretty much OK to me.
I do like the way Thrustmaster deals with their customers.
I had some issues with broken accelerator springs, they kept sending replacement springs for free (up to now I guess since my wheel is now older than 2 years...
Always direct response to mails, very friendly guys, also on the phone... 👍

OK.
Well received, easy to install, but not without issues.
The 2 new (much stiffer) springs for the tact switches and also the 4 new longer springs for the shifters seem to be too strong, which causes involuntary shifting.
TM asked me to try the old springs in combination with the new tact switches. Tried that and now the shifters work again. Without the distinctive click though and feeling too soft.
Waiting for TM to comment now...
 
Fan on my replacement V.5 went loud a few weeks ago, Thrustmaster kindly sent me a replacement....
...since I had to open T500 anyway, I used opportunity to go with @LogiForce's Noctua fan recommendation.

Yeah I have to do this fan mod as well, just got a used T500RS and god damn that fan, people weren't kidding when they say it is noisy.. that must be the worst airflow to noise ratio ever. Maybe it is supposed to sound like a turbo...

On that note, I assume someone has modded a turbo intake fan on this wheel for added realism?
 
Pls Help me

i bought T500RS 2 days ago, now when i open PS3 or start the game GT6 its not calibrated anymore

is it broke? adapter have blue light and steering wheel have red light

anyone have any idea or way to fix it

thxxx
 
Pls Help me

i bought T500RS 2 days ago, now when i open PS3 or start the game GT6 its not calibrated anymore

is it broke? adapter have blue light and steering wheel have red light

anyone have any idea or way to fix it

thxxx
What do you mean by "its not calibrated anymore" ?
Each time you start the game. The wheel calibrates itself, the pedals have to be pressed to calibrate...
 
What do you mean by "its not calibrated anymore" ?
Each time you start the game. The wheel calibrates itself, the pedals have to be pressed to calibrate...

i means the wheel not calibrate itseft, its not calibrate just like the first time i play, i remember first time with T500RS its will calibrated itself when i open PS3, when i'm start GT6 and when i'm off the game but now ITS NOT CALIBRATED i just buy its for 2 days Y_Y
 
i means the wheel not calibrate itseft, its not calibrate just like the first time i play, i remember first time with T500RS its will calibrated itself when i open PS3, when i'm start GT6 and when i'm off the game but now ITS NOT CALIBRATED i just buy its for 2 days Y_Y
Did you try disconnecting and connecting to the USB?
Otherwise, when the blue light as well as the red are lit, there should be no reason for the wheel not to calibrate.
I have mine for +2 years now (some 1500 hrs of use) and never had that issue.
If it should persist, try contacting TM. Very friendly and helpful.
 
Are you using PS3's USB with any kind of adapter/port multiplier? For some reason my wheel hates it when I use anything of the sort. Sucks that Slim only has 2 USB port and with T500 RS and TH8RS I am out of ports...
 
I use mine direct, with a 4 port hub in the other socket for my other accessories, calibrates everytime the PS3 is turned on or off, and everytime I start GT6... it's even done it a couple of times whilst it's been left idle in the menu screens --- but I've got no idea how all that works, so I can't help you.
 
Hello guys!
I am keep thinking about to upgrade wheel, I am own of T300 RS and make me want to upgrade T500 RS.
So I want metal pedal, so Whats the difference of T300 and T500?
I found out that finally support PS4 (I know I am behind haha!)
Thanks!
 
So guys I'm very late to the party as I had school and haven't had too much time to game. I was looking at buying DriveClub tonight and I was wondering if the T500Rs supports it. If so, how is it???

Thanks gents.
 
Back