- 10
- United Kingdom
Yeah should be good to go now.
Thrustmaster T300 Calibration Issues
- Thread starter Andysan
- 97 comments
- 80,644 views
- 62
- United Kingdom
I just hooked it up to my laptop and ran through the tests where you press buttons and it does fancy FFB effects and they actually work! It also calibrated again ok. In fact it all works in the control panel thing axis wise, rotation, pedals, everything. If I get a month or so out of it I'll be happy.
- 1
- Russian Federation
Спасибо Вам, добрый человек, за предоставленные фото по разборке мотора. Они мне очень помогли. Я выполнил все те-же операции, исключая снятие цилиндрического магнита ротора. На торцах удалил остатки старого клея, зачистил и наложил новый (poxipol). Торцевой колпачок с магнитом тоже снялся довольно легко, посадил на свежий клей. Откатал уже 5 часов- фидбек остается неизменно мощным и детальным. Отлично. Осталась одна проблема-центр руля смещен на 3 градуса. После ручной центровки MODE+SE+ST центр можно восстановить, но при смене градуса оборота руля смещается и центр. Не могу найти причину. Если Вы знаете решение, пожалуйста подскажите.
- 62
- United Kingdom
Pleased to report since my motor change, even with a broken hall sensor mount my T300RS has performed faultlessly. I'm careful to let it cool between races/sessions, and leave it a few minutes before switch off. I have the fan running all the time.
Result
Result
- 3
- United Kingdom
Hi Wiaderekk,
I’m new here, found this thread because I’ve had very similar issues to you guys on this thread and as my T300 is well out of warranty I decided to follow your guide to repair/reglue the magnet on the motor shaft to see if it helps. However, I’m a bit of a novice so am slightly confused when you talk about removing the magnet you say “dont flood the plate” but I dont know exactly what you mean here. Any explanation would be very much appreciated, your guide is awesome otherwise!
Hope you can clarify because I’m dying to get back to racing soon!
Regards,
The Penetrator
- 10
- United Kingdom
Ho what is the problem with yours? Does it not calibrate or does it have week force feed back?
- 10
- United Kingdom
When he mentioned flooding i think he just means dont saturate the cuirut board with the solvent. I wouldnt worry about removing the magnet if there is blue glue on yours, if yours is solid and only spins abit on the shaft then add some strong glue along side the existing blue glue and reassemble..
Warning though make sure the bearings and brass stoppers stay in exactly the same place as they can move and mess up the bearing position.
Warning though make sure the bearings and brass stoppers stay in exactly the same place as they can move and mess up the bearing position.
- 3
- United Kingdom
Its both, first it wouldn't calibrate, just constantly bumping rapidly on the stops. I reset it via the calibration software, but just it worked for 10 min then the FFB faded to nothing and it’s like drivin a dodgem at the fairground there is so little feedback. I’m in the middle of the repair just now.
- 3
- United Kingdom
- 3
- Australia
I had the recurring calibration issue pop on my T300 RS wheel, which could be fixed by using the calibration tool only for the wheels FFB to fade within a few laps and the wheel failing to calibrate from that point. I bought this wheel with T3PA in a wooden rig for $450 aud as I'm on a tight sim racing budget so this was heartbreaking after only getting a weeks use from it.
So glad I found this thread. I'm in the process of the repair captured in the PDF file (thank you very much for that @Wiaderekk!) however I am struggling with:
"The motor should now be opened, for this you need a Flat Screwdriver. The plates holding the motor cover in the body should be lifted and bent. I managed to bend 2 opposite ones and rotate the cover so it came out. You have to be quite delicate, it may take some time but I do not recommend to rush because you can bend the cover and it is responsible for the position of the bearing, which may have a negative impact on the later operation of the motor"
The small plates that are bent over to hold the motor cover in the body are very tough on mine and don't seem to want to budge.
I'll keep working on them but they don't seem to want to move at this point. Attached motor-plate side by side image is from Wiaderrekks guide, the additional image is from my in-progress. Got everything here that I need to get this done so will persevere!
So glad I found this thread. I'm in the process of the repair captured in the PDF file (thank you very much for that @Wiaderekk!) however I am struggling with:
"The motor should now be opened, for this you need a Flat Screwdriver. The plates holding the motor cover in the body should be lifted and bent. I managed to bend 2 opposite ones and rotate the cover so it came out. You have to be quite delicate, it may take some time but I do not recommend to rush because you can bend the cover and it is responsible for the position of the bearing, which may have a negative impact on the later operation of the motor"
The small plates that are bent over to hold the motor cover in the body are very tough on mine and don't seem to want to budge.
I'll keep working on them but they don't seem to want to move at this point. Attached motor-plate side by side image is from Wiaderrekks guide, the additional image is from my in-progress. Got everything here that I need to get this done so will persevere!
- 3
- Australia
Okay I got past that milestone, unsure how or when but the black core piece appears to be cracked. is this terminal? Can it be taped or glued together?
The gas soldering iron I have here doesn't even fire up so will get a powered one tomorrow to continue - getting the plate out is another struggle, using a razor blade to remove the red adhesive/glue
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ewsdUPzjUUvcXBz19
The gas soldering iron I have here doesn't even fire up so will get a powered one tomorrow to continue - getting the plate out is another struggle, using a razor blade to remove the red adhesive/glue
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ewsdUPzjUUvcXBz19
Well I am here back to report 2 month later7 weeks after ordering a motor from china it still had not arrived and seller could not provide tracking I gave up and found a uk seller on ebay, bit more expensive but sick of waiting, as with yours Andysan it does look like had something on the spindle but matched perfectly to the old motor.
I thought it would be a doddle to solder the small black wire but it turns out my iron was knackered, watched a tutorial on conditioning a soldering iron and the guy got one that looked like mine and binned it ,after sometime I got some heat into it and connected the black wire although I was convinced I had melted or contaminated the PCB.
Then it was just a case of remembering where things went and what screws went where (2 months later, I cant even remember 2 hours later).
Got it mounted to my playseat, calibrated and all works fine to my surprise, played in game and it again seems fine. I had not used the wheel for a year now and have a CSL now and the FFB did seem a bit light but I put it back to the force I used to play at (6 and 6 in GT Sport) and when you try and fully lock the wheel the force coming back is really strong and after 4 laps in TT mode beat my quali time from daily races last week on the fanatec which is embarrassing.
Just a couple of small issues you guys can maybe help with if you understand.
1. Does the T300 have a centre notch, where you can slowly rotate the wheel around where the centre should be and you can feel a slight click? I can not feel one and cant remember.
2. I have tested all the functions in the TM control panel eg Blown tyre vibration and they all work fine but in game I do not seem to have any real feedback if I hit a wall (on gt sport at least) , does this seem right, the fanatec nearly snaps my wrists and I can not remember if the t300 was like this? The motor seems fine but I am worried I may have damaged something else installing it or when I was running it broken last year, calibrating it every 30 mins with everything slamming back and forth cant do these things much good.
Hey Sean
Came back to see if you ever got anywhere with your repair and glad to see that you did, nice one.
I don't know if any center notch, never felt that personally with the T300. Unsure re your FFB to be honest. I usually run the T300 at about 40pc which is low, and have nothing to routinely compare it to. I'm guessing that the Fanatec that you own is simply much stronger and hence your T300 just feels weaker than it actually is. I certainly wouldn't say that mine is tearing my arms out of their sockets but I run it weak anyway to preserve it.
For anyone who has got their T300 up and running again, I can recommend buying a USB fan approx 50mmx50mm and using a bit of blutak to stick it to the outside of the case on the vent directly over the motor. You want this blowing up, I.e. sucking the air out of the case. I like this mod because it's reversible and can be added/removed in about 10sec with no mods to the unit at all, and for 3GBP it seems to pull out a steady stream of warm air.
To those who are persevering with disassembling the motor I'd still recommend getting a few replacements ordered for the relatively small amount that they cost.
Cheers
- 1
- Netherlands
I managed to fix my motor aswell with the pdf that was in the forum, my dumb ass even broke the black piece holding in the magnet but i gleud in back together with heat resisant epoxy and its strong and works great, i also used this to glue the black piece in the motor back together so i expect no problems.
My wheel also centered slightly of and i tried re-aligning the tooth, but as soon as i plug it back in it calibrates of center again. Now you can fix this with a button combination, that works. And it stays on center while playing. But if i reboot or unplug and plug back in calibrates of center again.
Now im thinking, could this be something with the HALL sensor magnet having to be in a certain position oposite to the gears? would think calibration is for that. Any ideas would be welcome
My wheel also centered slightly of and i tried re-aligning the tooth, but as soon as i plug it back in it calibrates of center again. Now you can fix this with a button combination, that works. And it stays on center while playing. But if i reboot or unplug and plug back in calibrates of center again.
Now im thinking, could this be something with the HALL sensor magnet having to be in a certain position oposite to the gears? would think calibration is for that. Any ideas would be welcome
- 145
- Thessaloniki
No you need to run the calibration tool once any time you change the motor.
Hi there, maybe anybody can help me.
I have also a broken T300RS here. I have tried to repair it with all the known solutions, but nothing helped.
After that, I have bought a second broken T300RS and also a brand new motor.
On the Video you can see, that the Motor can not rotate (the same is during calibration process). But if the Wheel is power less, I can rotate motor without any problems.
Many Thanks for your help.
I have also a broken T300RS here. I have tried to repair it with all the known solutions, but nothing helped.
After that, I have bought a second broken T300RS and also a brand new motor.
On the Video you can see, that the Motor can not rotate (the same is during calibration process). But if the Wheel is power less, I can rotate motor without any problems.
Many Thanks for your help.
What happens if you remove the e clips next to the motor pinion gear and take the belt tensioner off? Then you should be able to remove the belt from the motor pinion gear. This will at least tell you whether it's the motor or the gears.
Have you already replaced the motor then? Did you recalibrate afterwards?
Hi guys, have the same problems as everybody, and after the quote TM gave me for repairs, I decided to have a crack at it myself.
I got to the point where I need to remove the metal cover from the motor, by bending the little metal plates up, but it seems impossible to do. I've tried using an assortment of flat head screwdrivers with no luck so far. It seems I'm only destroying the metal plates while coming no closer to bending them or moving them in any way.
All the people here who managed to do it, do you have any tips? Any special tools or technique that you used?
Any help would be appreciated!
I got to the point where I need to remove the metal cover from the motor, by bending the little metal plates up, but it seems impossible to do. I've tried using an assortment of flat head screwdrivers with no luck so far. It seems I'm only destroying the metal plates while coming no closer to bending them or moving them in any way.
All the people here who managed to do it, do you have any tips? Any special tools or technique that you used?
Any help would be appreciated!
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- 145
- Thessaloniki
I have opened more than 50 motors. My best technique is removing the bent metal teeth with a dremel , and cutting new ones. Then I remove the metal cover ,do what I need to do internally , and close the motor by bending the new ones with a flat thick screwdriver and a hammer. Also it's a good idea after using the dremel to pass a sticky tape to remove any iron dust from the motor casing.
Thank you for the quick replies guys.
I agree that getting a new motor would be the way to go. Unfortunately, I can't seem to be able to find one here in the UK. My only options are ebay, where someone is selling them for extortionate prices ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293719842464 ), or alibaba where it would take 2-3 months for the motor to arrive. Plus it is very likely that the motors are not new anyway, as the sellers describe them as having some markings, which sound suspiciously like the markings I'm making while trying to open the motor myself.
So for now I'm stuck here trying to open the old motor. Unfortunately I don't own a dremel and I don't know anyone who does, in order to borrow one...
I guess I'll keep at it, in the meantime I've contacted Thrustmaster about the possibility of getting replacement parts. I'll keep you posted if I get any interesting news.
Edit: I just thought this. Asteroulis, you have experience with these motors. Is the metal cover just held in place by the bent plates, or is it glued as well? Would applying some acetone help it come loose?
I agree that getting a new motor would be the way to go. Unfortunately, I can't seem to be able to find one here in the UK. My only options are ebay, where someone is selling them for extortionate prices ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293719842464 ), or alibaba where it would take 2-3 months for the motor to arrive. Plus it is very likely that the motors are not new anyway, as the sellers describe them as having some markings, which sound suspiciously like the markings I'm making while trying to open the motor myself.
So for now I'm stuck here trying to open the old motor. Unfortunately I don't own a dremel and I don't know anyone who does, in order to borrow one...
I guess I'll keep at it, in the meantime I've contacted Thrustmaster about the possibility of getting replacement parts. I'll keep you posted if I get any interesting news.
Edit: I just thought this. Asteroulis, you have experience with these motors. Is the metal cover just held in place by the bent plates, or is it glued as well? Would applying some acetone help it come loose?
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- 332
- Denmark
- 145
- Thessaloniki
Its just the bent metal. It is very important to avoid damage to the cover , because it's wherethe hall sensor base sits, and any deformation will have an impact on the proper angle between the magnet and the hall sensor . I have managed to open it with a screwdriver, but I have also managed to destroy it as well. Buying a cheap rotary tool (doesn't need o be dremel) will do the job , at the price you'd pay premium from an ebay seller..
Thanks Skinny, I've already seen that thread. It's his PDF I'm using as a guide to repair the wheel, lots of useful info and pics although he somehow made this step look way easier
Hello again, I've finally managed to remove the plate and open the motor.
I got to the rotor magnet, which was glued to the shaft with some strange blue glue.
Unfortunately, when I tried to separate the magnet from the shaft, the part which was glued with that blue glue broke off.
Does anyone know if I can find a replacement magnet, and where to look? Or is it game over for this motor?
I got to the rotor magnet, which was glued to the shaft with some strange blue glue.
Unfortunately, when I tried to separate the magnet from the shaft, the part which was glued with that blue glue broke off.
Does anyone know if I can find a replacement magnet, and where to look? Or is it game over for this motor?
- 145
- Thessaloniki
