Thrustmaster T3PA Pro & T3PA Wide Pedal Set Thread

Which one to get?


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Does anybody know if the T3pa pro pedals should be oiled at all ? iam not getting any problems but would like to prevent any too.I was thinking of a few blasts of wd40.
 
You sprayed too much if it was leaking.

Rectified my deadzones in the T3PA but notching it down one tooth on the potentiometers. Kept a tiny bit of plastic on the ridge that looks 0.3cm. Tiny bit of pressure on the Thrustmaster app engages likewise on the PS4. Exact same readings.

Now I just need JBodin's gizmos! Want to buy my load cell and his digital electronic accelerator and clutch gizmos.
 
Ok, the T.RJ12 USB adapter came yesterday, so I had a quick go with my T500RS pedals.
As expected, they work perfectly, since they are of course 100% identical to T3PA-Pro pedals.

Now Thrustmaster pedals deliver 1024 steps of resolution in total, which means if the potentiometers were perfect they would show raw values of 0 to 1023. Mine clearly need a small amount of deadzone, but much less than Thrusmaster provides by default.

Looking at the picture below, you can see that my pedals show a deadzone requirement of under 10 steps at the start of throw (as you can see they register 6, 7 and 0 respectively, there is a small fluctuation but not more than 1-2 steps). They also show a deadzone requirement of around the same at the end of travel (they register up to around 1016-1018).

The stock deadzones are 102 steps at both ends, but I could see anyone who dislikes the size of the stock deadzone getting one of these adapters to be able to use the calibration tool, just to reduce their deadzone from 102 steps down to ~20 steps. For some people this would actually be a big upgrade.

Here's my screenshot of the Calibration tool for reference:

T500%20pedals%20via%20T.RJ12%20USB%20adapter%20calibration%20screen.png



P.S. The adapter comes with a "car/plane" switch. Makes me think that Thrustmaster are planning to allow use of this adapter with rudder pedals, perhaps in a new flight/space sim product. There's no information in the manual about what the plane switch could be used for at this time but I would guess it's for "combined pedals" as needed for rudder.

This calibration works only with PC, am I right? If pedals were calibrated on PC and later were used with console, calibration doesn't have any effect?
 
This calibration works only with PC, am I right? If pedals were calibrated on PC and later were used with console, calibration doesn't have any effect?
Indeed, the calibration is of the drivers for the USB adapter, not the pedals themselves as far as I can tell.
 
Can the tp3a pro be used in GT style without being hard mounted to a rig? Like, can it be set on a carpet and be used without tipping over?

Also when in GT style, how tall is it?
 
Can the tp3a pro be used in GT style without being hard mounted to a rig? Like, can it be set on a carpet and be used without tipping over?

Also when in GT style, how tall is it?
Not practically, no.

Just under 14" tall.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and got the standard T3PA. And after an hour or two of it, I'm loving it! I'm going to have to get used to right foot braking since I've had a two pedal setup for almost two years. But I'm loving the conical brake mod! Gives me the confidence to drive with abs off in GT6.
 
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Well, I pulled the trigger and got the standard T3PA. And after an hour or two of it, I'm loving it! I'm going to have to get used to right foot braking since I've had a two pedal setup for almost two years. But I'm loving the brake mod! Gives me the confidence to drive with abs off in GT6.
i will continue to build upon this mod, adding proper clutch feel, pressure sensors ect. small steps first. making sure everything works. then making it aesthetically pleasing. so that you want to show it off.. get the adapter too this way you can use it with any wheel
 
not with this mod, the amount of pressure required on the brake is excessive and it will move before you applied any real brake. also it cannot be pinned against a wall not only because of the components behind it. but again the pressure required will tip the pedals forward. has to be bolted down.
 
Thx Super_GT for pointing me to this thread. Give my question another try over here :)

Thanks for your support in advance 👍

I have T3PA pedals and thinking to add the Bodin load cell. Several times I've asked via the website about availability but not reply so far. Too busy or quit businesses?
Does it really improve the brake handling and so is it worth the +/- $99. ?
Any other solution besides the Bodin load cell available? Could not find anything on GTP and Google (hopefully I missed an alternative?). E.g. Fanatec is above my budget...
 
3 week review of the T3PA Standard:
After about a week of use, i removed the Conical brake mod because the way I currently have my rig set up, it took to much force to fully apply the break and it wasn't comfortable. It also made the brake travel a little too short. After removing it, the brake pedal felt a lot better but I feel that the pedal travel is a little much.
I dislike the size of the brake pedal itself, and I wish it was bigger. But I do like the ability to move the pedals slightly.
 
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Hope to have more BLC-T3PA Load Cell Mods available soon -- have parts in stock, been dealing with some family health issues, which have prevented me from getting any actual work done. Things are getting better, so hopefully I'll have some stock available soon.
thx for your reply and most important is your family (health). Take care!!
 
Hope to have more BLC-T3PA Load Cell Mods available soon -- have parts in stock, been dealing with some family health issues, which have prevented me from getting any actual work done. Things are getting better, so hopefully I'll have some stock available soon.

Hey John, any News on when we can purchase one of these load cells, really keen to purchase one myself
ive sent a contact request via your website but havnt had a response

thanks
 
Currently using the F1 set up until I get a bracket to mount on my wheelstandpro in GT set up. Having both the T3PA and the T3PA-Pro I can highly recommend the PRO over the regular pedal set. The build quality obviously is better (better than I even expected) but the brake (the most important pedal) is superior on the PRO, not only because of the solid build but the brake spring on the PRO is bigger/heavier compared to the T3PA, offering better resistance before hitting the conical brake mod. I finally can say I don't miss my GTEye modded G27 pedals.
 
F1 has always worked well for me but I'm going to try the GT setup when I get the required mounting bracket. I'll do an update on F1vs GT at that time.
 
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So I have the Pro's and they have this little end connector that looks something like this(EDIT: It is an RJ12 connector apparently):

Ts1c.jpg


The little tab that keeps it snapped into place has snapped off. I tried using the cable just kind of 'pushed in' and it worked for a few weeks, but now the brake pedal simply wont work properly anymore, rendering the pedals entirely useless. All because that tiny little tab snapped off. Given I have no DIY skills, am I basically screwed? £120 down the drain over that tiny little tab?

My T8HA shifter is also dealing with a stripped screw issue that is making it a pain to clamp on my desk(I have to shove something in between to find a 'new location' on the screw that isn't stripped). This is gonna be another £100 down the drain pretty soon, I'm guessing.

Funny enough with all the reliability issues people have with their T300 bases, mine has been perfect and it's the peripherals I'm struggling with. Quite regretting my 'upgrade' over the G27 at the moment, honestly. I got an Oculus Rift very recently and have been really loving racing with it and now that has come to an end until I shell out a bunch more money for new pedals which will come with the same potential issue.

Any ideas on what to do here?

EDIT: Ok - so I think I discovered part of the problem - or at least why only the brake pedal wasn't working just now when everything had at least worked ok before with the connector just 'pushed in' - in just 'pushing in' the connector, I think I've bent a couple of the little pins in the T300 port. I tried to fix this, but as I explained - I have no DIY skills - so I ended up just making it worse. Now most of the pins are bent and upon trying to plug everything in again - NOTHING works, not gas, brake or clutch. So I've not only messed up the pedals, I have also made my wheel completely useless. £500 down the drain.

This might be it for me and sim racing, honestly. This was a huge spend for me and also the main reason I bought the £400 Oculus Rift. It's one of my favorite hobbies, but this has been a disasterous day and I cannot afford to replace all this crap.

EDIT2: Best option might be for me to buy another set of T3PA's and then apparently there's an official USB adapter which I could leave plugged into the PC behind the desk where it shouldn't be vulnerable.

Still not a cheap fix, but should hopefully manage longer-term, which is what I need. Really not feeling rebuying stuff that could have the same problem again.

I realize nobody will likely read any of this for months, but any other input would be great. lol
 
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I can confirm the Thrustmaster USB adapter works for PC to make the pedals stand-alone. You even get extra functionality: the ability to adjust the built in deadzones at either end of travel.

You can buy it off the Thrustmaster webshop, but be aware that their postage costs are pretty steep so all in it was just north of €20 I believe.

Still a far better option than buying new pedals for this...
 
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