Thrustmaster T500RS/T300 wheels thread

  • Thread starter Diablo_rf
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So my second 300 Servo base has gone down (was not even on for an hour before lost all FFB)....any recommendations on a different piece of hardware? Does the 500 have the same overheating issues as the 300? I don’t really want to sacrifice performance, but need better reliability. Thanks!

The T-GT has built in special fans and never suffers from fade or the Overheating
 
Only happens with GT Sport though. Not sure how it could be the wheel but it might.

I first noticed it on my wheel when playing pCARS 1 - I ran a pretty heavy wheel in that game. I also had the issue sometimes when racing the formula 1 cars in Assetto Corsa which have strong FFB. After going through my wheel and tightening things down I have never had the issue again.

Do you run a stronger FFB in GTS vs other games?

I am not going to say that it is for sure a wheel issue vs a game issue, but more than likely if it was a game issue than everyone would experience it. Also it has been brought up for the T300 on many different tittles, so this is also why I believe it is more likely hardware.
 
For those having the random button presses on the T300.. this is normally caused by a poor connection between the rim and the base. If you remove the rim, there are screws on the connector (I forget if it is on the rim side, the base side or both) that you can tighten down a little. Do not over tighten them. Also it could be caused by a little bit of flex on other places on your rim. So snug down all the screws on your rim as well.

When you put the rim back on, make sure to get the big plastic sleeve nut that holds the rim to the base nice and snug. Hold the rim with one hand and hold the plastic sleeve nut with the other to tighten it.

** Use the correct tools and do not over tighten things ** If you do not understand this then do some more research first.

Another thing that is possible.. some people have found the connector to actually be bad and have taken it apart and replaced it.. this is only recommended if you are past your warranty *and you are very comfortable with working on electronics (soldering, wiring, etc).
I first noticed it on my wheel when playing pCARS 1 - I ran a pretty heavy wheel in that game. I also had the issue sometimes when racing the formula 1 cars in Assetto Corsa which have strong FFB. After going through my wheel and tightening things down I have never had the issue again.

Do you run a stronger FFB in GTS vs other games?

I am not going to say that it is for sure a wheel issue vs a game issue, but more than likely if it was a game issue than everyone would experience it. Also it has been brought up for the T300 on many different tittles, so this is also why I believe it is more likely hardware.
Thanks guys. I will try this out. Though I am skeptical as I have had the collar nut come loose such that I've had to reattach the wheel to the base at least twice. I have sense really cranked down on the screw that is supposed to keep the collar nut from coming loose.
 
I’m starting to have the issue on my T300 where under longer races it will start activating the share and pause buttons. I’ve read online that flex in the wheel or poor contact with the base can do it. Must have something to do with me having run with more ffb force than I usually do.

Frustrating to suddenly watch the pause screen as you’re battling for podium spots haha.

Odd that it has only really happened in GTS and not AC or PCars 2.

Will have to try and turn down the strength of the ffb to see it that alleviates the flex problem.
 
So i’m pretty much screwed if my issues are firmware related and not game related? Before 1.05 it felt great... a lap around the Nordschleife was a real exercise, now I can do it almost one handed without breaking a sweat..... 🤬

Your only recourse is to take your wheel to a friend that has a pc or perhaps your local computer repair shop and have them do it.
 
I’m starting to have the issue on my T300 where under longer races it will start activating the share and pause buttons. I’ve read online that flex in the wheel or poor contact with the base can do it. Must have something to do with me having run with more ffb force than I usually do.

Frustrating to suddenly watch the pause screen as you’re battling for podium spots haha.

Odd that it has only really happened in GTS and not AC or PCars 2.

Will have to try and turn down the strength of the ffb to see it that alleviates the flex problem.


This is what we have been going back and forth about.. I am betting for most of you (not all) it is an issue with the connector between the rim and the base. (I think it is a ps2 connector?) take your rim off and look in the center of the plastic on both the base and the rim. You will see some pins and two screws on the outside of them. I forget if they are on the rim side or the base side or both. Tighten them down but do not strip them. Then also tighten down all the screws all over your rim.. again do not strip them use proper tools and do not over tighten.

Then when you put your rim back on, make sure to get the large plastic sleeve or collar or w/e it is called nut nice and snug then by holding the plastic nut with one and and your rim with the other get it a little bit tighter. Then tighten down the set screw so that the large plastic nut holding the rim on won't move.

Google "t300 random button press".. this has been an issue since the T500 came out and continued to the T300. Not everyone has the issue. It also can start later in the wheels life as things loosen up over time so when you get a new game and start playing a lot again you may notice it when you have not noticed it before.. it could also happen at a specific FFB point in your wheel turn it that was not strong on another game.. I also bet the extra vibration during understeer from GTS on the T300 is working some things loose.
 
Didn’t read the whole thread. Will try that out man, thanks for the advice.

Edit: Opened it up and they all could be tightened a bit. Be interesting to see if it sorts it.
 
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But all in all isn't it true, excluding understeer issues, that after 1.05, T300 atleast, have become lifeless? To center of steering came some force but overall about everything including cerbs and bumps ffb disapeared from ffb.

Together with that unlinearity of pedals this start to feel very lame to race with wheel.
 
So my second 300 Servo base has gone down (was not even on for an hour before lost all FFB)....any recommendations on a different piece of hardware? Does the 500 have the same overheating issues as the 300? I don’t really want to sacrifice performance, but need better reliability. Thanks!
You should have updated the firmware and ran the fan always. That sucks though buddy, I too just bought a T300 and hope I don’t have the same fate.
 
So my second 300 Servo base has gone down (was not even on for an hour before lost all FFB)....any recommendations on a different piece of hardware? Does the 500 have the same overheating issues as the 300? I don’t really want to sacrifice performance, but need better reliability. Thanks!

Assuming your second base is under warranty I would ask Thrustmaster to upgrade you to the t500 and only charge you for the difference. My t500 has no heating issues with the latest drivers installed. Although before installing the latest drivers I had fade after driving for 30 minutes. Otherwise read the G29 thread and decide if you want one. Someone in that thread said they got a G29 for under $250.
 
So my second 300 Servo base has gone down (was not even on for an hour before lost all FFB)....any recommendations on a different piece of hardware? Does the 500 have the same overheating issues as the 300? I don’t really want to sacrifice performance, but need better reliability. Thanks!
WOW, I've had my 300rs for over a year now. No issues except for the gas pedal. Not sure what your FFB settings are on but most of the people I have read about with problems seem to have the FFB turned up high. I run mine at 3 on GT Sport. Cooling fan only comes on once in a while.
 
I first noticed it on my wheel when playing pCARS 1 - I ran a pretty heavy wheel in that game. I also had the issue sometimes when racing the formula 1 cars in Assetto Corsa which have strong FFB. After going through my wheel and tightening things down I have never had the issue again.

Do you run a stronger FFB in GTS vs other games?

I am not going to say that it is for sure a wheel issue vs a game issue, but more than likely if it was a game issue than everyone would experience it. Also it has been brought up for the T300 on many different tittles, so this is also why I believe it is more likely hardware.
I run the FFB on 3 and 3 on GT Sport. It only happens so rarely that I might not even take the wheel off to jack with it. It will happen one day in the middle or right near the end of an important points race and I get so mad I'll take it apart right then.
 
Assuming your second base is under warranty I would ask Thrustmaster to upgrade you to the t500 and only charge you for the difference. My t500 has no heating issues with the latest drivers installed. Although before installing the latest drivers I had fade after driving for 30 minutes. Otherwise read the G29 thread and decide if you want one. Someone in that thread said they got a G29 for under $250.
I recently got one from Best Buy for $299. A g29 That is. It was okay and I’ve heard they are super reliable, I still have a functioning g27. But I found a deal on a T300 rs gt edition and brought the g29 back and got the thrustmaster. The difference between the two is night and day with feedback and smoothness. Like I said though Logitech seems a step up in quality perhaps. I don’t know first hand since I’ve only owned my T300 about a week but by what I’ve read on here and other places it seems thrustmaster has some quality control problems.
 
Assuming your second base is under warranty I would ask Thrustmaster to upgrade you to the t500 and only charge you for the difference. My t500 has no heating issues with the latest drivers installed. Although before installing the latest drivers I had fade after driving for 30 minutes. Otherwise read the G29 thread and decide if you want one. Someone in that thread said they got a G29 for under $250.
I’m waiting for a response from support at Thrustmaster. I got it when AC came out for ps4, so just over a year I think. It spun so hard to the right when starting up I swear I heard something break in there. I’m waiting to hear what they have to say, I’m definitely a little Leary about spending 800 on T-GT since I’ve had trouble with the 300 twice now. I’ve ran pretty low ffb ever since my first one went down with PC1.

Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Maybe I’ll find enough change under my seats for a CSL-Elite.
 
I've been wrestling Thrustmaster support for two weeks trying to get a spare PCB for my T500,
they've taken my shipping and payment details but since refused to actually provide the part.

Essentially they have scammed me for my data set, unprofessional as hell.

Unusual too given i have dealt with them before without any problems, seems the current support guy is not up to the task.
 
I’m waiting for a response from support at Thrustmaster. I got it when AC came out for ps4, so just over a year I think. It spun so hard to the right when starting up I swear I heard something break in there. I’m waiting to hear what they have to say, I’m definitely a little Leary about spending 800 on T-GT since I’ve had trouble with the 300 twice now. I’ve ran pretty low ffb ever since my first one went down with PC1.

Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Maybe I’ll find enough change under my seats for a CSL-Elite.
Mine also spins pretty hard to the right on calibration. Way harder than it does to the left. I hate it.
 
This is what we have been going back and forth about.. I am betting for most of you (not all) it is an issue with the connector between the rim and the base. (I think it is a ps2 connector?) take your rim off and look in the center of the plastic on both the base and the rim. You will see some pins and two screws on the outside of them. I forget if they are on the rim side or the base side or both. Tighten them down but do not strip them. Then also tighten down all the screws all over your rim.. again do not strip them use proper tools and do not over tighten.

Then when you put your rim back on, make sure to get the large plastic sleeve or collar or w/e it is called nut nice and snug then by holding the plastic nut with one and and your rim with the other get it a little bit tighter. Then tighten down the set screw so that the large plastic nut holding the rim on won't move.

Google "t300 random button press".. this has been an issue since the T500 came out and continued to the T300. Not everyone has the issue. It also can start later in the wheels life as things loosen up over time so when you get a new game and start playing a lot again you may notice it when you have not noticed it before.. it could also happen at a specific FFB point in your wheel turn it that was not strong on another game.. I also bet the extra vibration during understeer from GTS on the T300 is working some things loose.
There are too many people who have never seen the issue only to have it appear in GTS. I used my T300 for several years on PC, first time I used it on PS4 with GTS and I get a share/start press. I'm betting different games/drivers have a different sensitivity/deadzone to button presses
 
The force feedback is completely dead on mine... tried different games, all with the same result. Contacted the store I bought it from and I still have full warranty on it so I could send it back for them to check it out. So I'll be without a wheel for probably a week or two.
 
I'm currently looking for good offers on T300RS GT Edition but this thread really worried me - is it really that bad with Thrustmaster's products? Lots of people are complaining about FFB and stuff like that, so what i really do not want is to spend more money than the PS4 unit costs and get something that will not be working properly...

Are there people who have been using the T300 for like 1-2 years on regular basis without major issues?
 
I'm currently looking for good offers on T300RS GT Edition but this thread really worried me - is it really that bad with Thrustmaster's products? Lots of people are complaining about FFB and stuff like that, so what i really do not want is to spend more money than the PS4 unit costs and get something that will not be working properly...

Are there people who have been using the T300 for like 1-2 years on regular basis without major issues?

FFB is good mate.Better than G29 -example-.
The problem is not that.IMO with a little more money you'll get a better overall wheel (FANATEC).
If you cant go over to that price,then the best wheel is T300 (when it is working and not braking).
 
I'm currently looking for good offers on T300RS GT Edition but this thread really worried me - is it really that bad with Thrustmaster's products? Lots of people are complaining about FFB and stuff like that, so what i really do not want is to spend more money than the PS4 unit costs and get something that will not be working properly...

Are there people who have been using the T300 for like 1-2 years on regular basis without major issues?
My t500 rs has been going years now and still feels amazing. 1 new fan thats it. Done a few 24hour races on it too (gtpes). Try the t500 rs
 
did anyone else recently experience a lifeless (undetected) T500RS wheel from updating to new V46 firmware?

my Win10 drivers no longer saw it, tried a different USB port, nothing, lo and behold , the tech geek voice in me said, run the firmware again! whew. all is well.

running defaults in GTS at 5/5 , feels great, though braking feels lackluster, perhaps they reduced sensitivity, though some races felt I was missing brakes, as I plowed (with an oops so sorry!not sorry!) into my AI adversaries, yet still earning clean race awards!!! :D
 
There are too many people who have never seen the issue only to have it appear in GTS. I used my T300 for several years on PC, first time I used it on PS4 with GTS and I get a share/start press. I'm betting different games/drivers have a different sensitivity/deadzone to button presses

A button is on or off.. there is no sensitivity to it. They don't have those pressure sensitive buttons on the Thrustmaster products. Also since the random button press has been around on the T500 and the T300 years before GTS has been out then I am pretty darn sure it is not the game. Like I said before.. new games with different types of FFB will shake things loose and the build quality on the wheels is shotty so things do not stay tight.

If you want to wait around and see if PD is going to solve this problem for you.. it ain't going to happen.

Also many more of us are not experiencing the random button presses on our T500s and T300s so stating that "too many" people are getting it in GTS holds no weight.

I am seriously trying to help people with an issue that has been around on these products for years and is often very easy to remedy. I do not understand why people are trying to argue against it.
 
I'm currently looking for good offers on T300RS GT Edition but this thread really worried me - is it really that bad with Thrustmaster's products? Lots of people are complaining about FFB and stuff like that, so what i really do not want is to spend more money than the PS4 unit costs and get something that will not be working properly...

Are there people who have been using the T300 for like 1-2 years on regular basis without major issues?
I've been using mine for over 2 years
 
Can anyone assist... Bought a T300RS Alcantara Edition from Box.co.uk, Firstly Connected up to a PC Updated It to the latest firmware in PS3 Mode (PC Mode) Then after It completed I connected It to My PS4 & It's not being recognised? I tried both the USB Ports and the same. Restarted the Console and the same. Tried PS3 Mode & The same... The Wheel It self turns on boots up and does the centre calibration and that's It. Having to go through the rigmarole of returning it back to the retailer my 3rd Wheel in 3 Wheels :( I feel so frustrated that nothings working for me. Anything that could have gone wrong?

Also the Paddle Shifters on the Base for the 599XX Rim are feeling like they're stuck (Glue Underneath pulling each paddle when pressed) Which isn't normal..

I don't know why I keep giving Thrustmaster a chance after all my failures... I even called their Support line and they were so unhelpful and couldn't care less or could even advise me If this is a Firmware fault...
 
Can anyone assist... Bought a T300RS Alcantara Edition from Box.co.uk, Firstly Connected up to a PC Updated It to the latest firmware in PS3 Mode (PC Mode) Then after It completed I connected It to My PS4 & It's not being recognised? I tried both the USB Ports and the same. Restarted the Console and the same. Tried PS3 Mode & The same... The Wheel It self turns on boots up and does the centre calibration and that's It. Having to go through the rigmarole of returning it back to the retailer my 3rd Wheel in 3 Wheels :( I feel so frustrated that nothings working for me. Anything that could have gone wrong?

Also the Paddle Shifters on the Base for the 599XX Rim are feeling like they're stuck (Glue Underneath pulling each paddle when pressed) Which isn't normal..

I don't know why I keep giving Thrustmaster a chance after all my failures... I even called their Support line and they were so unhelpful and couldn't care less or could even advise me If this is a Firmware fault...

I read somewhere that someone had the same issue, they reflashed the firmware and the issue was solved. Good lock mate!
 
Can anyone assist... Bought a T300RS Alcantara Edition from Box.co.uk, Firstly Connected up to a PC Updated It to the latest firmware in PS3 Mode (PC Mode) Then after It completed I connected It to My PS4 & It's not being recognised? I tried both the USB Ports and the same. Restarted the Console and the same. Tried PS3 Mode & The same... The Wheel It self turns on boots up and does the centre calibration and that's It. Having to go through the rigmarole of returning it back to the retailer my 3rd Wheel in 3 Wheels :( I feel so frustrated that nothings working for me. Anything that could have gone wrong?

Also the Paddle Shifters on the Base for the 599XX Rim are feeling like they're stuck (Glue Underneath pulling each paddle when pressed) Which isn't normal..

I don't know why I keep giving Thrustmaster a chance after all my failures... I even called their Support line and they were so unhelpful and couldn't care less or could even advise me If this is a Firmware fault...

Which button on the rim is the same as the PS button? per the manual it is the center button on the bottom right of the rim. It has to be pressed for the console to use it (When in ps4 mode)

You can try this.. shut everything off. unhook the wheel from the console. Put the wheel in ps3 mode (switch).
Turn on your console and start up GTS with a normal controller. Once in the main menu hook up your wheel to the console and let it calibrate.
Now attempt to use your wheel d-pad to move the cursor around.

Not sure about your paddle shifters.. that sounds weird. Mine (Standard T300 RS ps4 rim) were a bit tacky when I first got my T300 but they worked perfectly after a few presses and have now worked for years without issue.
 

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