Thrustmaster T500RS/T300 wheels thread

  • Thread starter Diablo_rf
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Correction on your correction. The official Thrustmaster Facebook page announcement says otherwise.

Correction.. I was referring to T500RS and for T500 the Firmware version ALREADY is the 47!! You may read that the Firmware is for SOME of the wheels... I went directly to Thrustmaster site and to the Firmware download link of my Wheel (T500RS) and no new firmware is available for such wheel!!
 
Correction.. I was referring to T500RS and for T500 the Firmware version ALREADY is the 47!! You may read that the Firmware is for SOME of the wheels... I went directly to Thrustmaster site and to the Firmware download link of my Wheel (T500RS) and no new firmware is available for such wheel!!
You never said t500 before bro. You were correcting me on the fact that I said firmware and not drivers, when in fact the official thrustmaster page refers to it as firmware. It doesnt matter if it didnt have an update for your t500 because thrustmaster would still call it as firmware if the t500 did have an update
 
Is the T300 supported on Assetto Corsa, Project Cars, F1 2017 etc?

It's a beast with PC's 2. I didn't believe how strong and heavy it could feel until I had it ramped up trying to find a good balance. Gave me a real workout when driving the radical.
 
Final edit. Removed my content since it didn’t really contribute to the discussion and most of the fixes to my problems could be found in this thread. Thank you! 👍
 
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I’m back again.

Don’t understand why GTS is the only game (I found) that requires the TH8A to be plugged into the console via USB instead of through the wheel.

It’s a first world problem sure, but now I realize that keeping the shifter plugged in via USB doesn’t allow you to remap the shifter gates when playing other games like DiRT4. Now I find myself swapping out the cables every time I switch games. Annoying. :irked:
 
I’m back again.

Don’t understand why GTS is the only game (I found) that requires the TH8A to be plugged into the console via USB instead of through the wheel.

It’s a first world problem sure, but now I realize that keeping the shifter plugged in via USB doesn’t allow you to remap the shifter gates when playing other games like DiRT4. Now I find myself swapping out the cables every time I switch games. Annoying. :irked:

Have you tried updating to the latest firmware v28 to see if it'll allow the th8a to work plugged into the base for GT Sport. It was announced on Thrustmasters FB page but not clear if it's also for T300 and T500.


I only game on ps4 but when I got the new SPARCO R383 rim I had to update the firmware so it can recognise the buttons on the rim. Always was told previously that firmware doesn't effect console racers.
 
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Have you tried updating to the latest firmware v28 to see if it'll allow the th8a to work plugged into the base for GT Sport. It was announced on Thrustmasters FB page but not clear if it's also for T300 and T500.


I only game on ps4 but when I got the new SPARCO R383 rim I had to update the firmware so it can recognise the buttons on the rim. Always was told previously that firmware doesn't effect console racers.

Running a T300RSGTE so I’ll give the update a shot. Thanks for the info!
 
61D08753-6BB4-430E-BCF8-48E0C4612005.png
Running a T300RSGTE so I’ll give the update a shot. Thanks for the info!

Well in between entertaining family I tried the firmware update and now the wheel isn’t booting up. Had an error message appear on my PC during the update. Now no response from the wheel.

Will try the boot loader method next. Not giving up yet. Stay tuned...
 
View attachment 701589

Well in between entertaining family I tried the firmware update and now the wheel isn’t booting up. Had an error message appear on my PC during the update. Now no response from the wheel.

Will try the boot loader method next. Not giving up yet. Stay tuned...

yyyyyyeeeesssss!!!! (pumping fist into air)

Hungover and with 4 hours of sleep I got the firmware installed. Man oh man.

The boot loader method didn’t work yesterday but after uninstalling and reinstalling the TM firmware my PC recognized the wheel and I’m up and running V.28.

I am seriously not very tech savvy, so if I can get this to work anybody can. Seriously thought I had a dead wheel yesterday.

@Double Ayyys: By the way, firmware v.28 for the T300 works perfectly with GTS and the TH8A plugged directly into the wheel. No more cable swapping between games. 👍

Thanks again! :gtpflag:
 
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So after the last sport update my T300 was not calibrating and banging hard right off the stops. I did the version 28 firmware update and its back to normal, although I have had to adjust the torque and feedback up to 6/7 from 5/6. So if your having any issues do the update.
 
same like iracing, the game will change rotation per car

for example 900 deg for gr4 and 540 deg for gr3.

How do I know this ? GIMX console output while using GTS on my OSW wheel.
 
T300 firmware update was a temporary fix, it has now gone to rapid 360 degree bump stop to bump stop banging. This is my second one in a year. It's out of warranty so I ordered a new one, I'm going to try and fix the old one just for the challenge but if the new unit doesn't last more than a year I will be organizing a class action against thrustmaster.
 
I just received the T80. Any suggestions for settings? I know it’s the low end of the spectrum, but I’m new and the price point fit my budget. Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer suggestions!
 
I just received the T80. Any suggestions for settings? I know it’s the low end of the spectrum, but I’m new and the price point fit my budget. Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer suggestions!

If I recall the T80 uses a bungee chord system to generate resistance and does not have true force feedback (a servo motor powered base) to adjust any settings.
 
If I recall the T80 uses a bungee chord system to generate resistance and does not have true force feedback (a servo motor powered base) to adjust any settings.
You are correct and I realize I purchased the low end of wheels. Just looking for suggestions on the settings. Surely there has to be a good way to set this up. I guess I’ll experiment
 
Would people recommend a T300 over a G29?

For me if it's in your budget, why wouldn't You? Newer tech, stronger motor meaning you will get better force feedback detail, it's shifter isn't all plastic if you choose to get one down the road, and it has a good lineup of swappable rims that really make a huge difference for a true enthusiast standpoint.

Only reason I could think of getting the Logitech over the T300 is long term reliability. But for me I use my T300 many hours every day and some days for upwards of 10 hours and have had no issues. Obviously others have had some issues.
 
For me if it's in your budget, why wouldn't You? Newer tech, stronger motor meaning you will get better force feedback detail, it's shifter isn't all plastic if you choose to get one down the road, and it has a good lineup of swappable rims that really make a huge difference for a true enthusiast standpoint.

Only reason I could think of getting the Logitech over the T300 is long term reliability. But for me I use my T300 many hours every day and some days for upwards of 10 hours and have had no issues. Obviously others have had some issues.

Is it possible to have a set resistance for the whole travel of the wheel? That, and adjustable wheel travel, is what Im looking for.
 
Hello guys, question to t500 users, is your wheel heavy at ffb torque above 2?
I can't get a decent setting because at 1 the wheel is too light and almost no ffb, but at 2 it becomes too heavy...
 
Hello guys, question to t500 users, is your wheel heavy at ffb torque above 2?
I can't get a decent setting because at 1 the wheel is too light and almost no ffb, but at 2 it becomes too heavy...

Use it at 2, as the wheel warms up it will lose some stregth.
I use FFB 2 and sensibility at 1 and i think it´s perfect.
 
I'm sad to join this thread and the broken Thrustmaster club. On New Year's Day, I was running qualifying on Mt Panorama, noticed the mounting screw on my T500RS base was coming loose. Turned the PS4 off, put a new bracket under my table and screwed the screws back tightly. Maybe a little too tightly. Fired up the PS4 again, plugged in the power supply (blue light came on), then plugged the T500 USB back in...nothing. No initialisation, no nothing, though the power supply seems to be working. Tried different USB ports, unplugging everything for 24 hours, pushing in all the cables tightly again...still nothing.

I haven't run any driver/firmware updates before, and I got the T500 in 2013. But I'm on a Mac, so I don't really have options in that respect. Seems weird that it would need a firmware update just because I tightened a screw...? I didn't have any issues with PS4 Project Cars, Assetto Corsa, or GT Sport before this, and I used it for a couple of years on PS3 for GT5, GT6, Codemasters F1 games. It just gave up suddenly. Not much in terms of symptoms prior, but I did notice the FFB was a touch weak after some extended sessions starting from a couple of weeks ago, but the fans were running fine. Otherwise, it was running fine.

I seem to recall someone in here mentioning they replaced a T500 after ruining it by tightening the mounting screws too much?

Any other tips?
 
My wheel was coming loose so I exited the game to tighten the hub up, turns out to be the wheel itself. Has anyone had this issue with the T300 steering wheel & taken it apart to fix it? Looks like there is some type glue used on the inside.

IMG_7487.jpg


UPDATE:

Never mind, I figured it out. All I had to do was tighten the hex bolts in the front of the wheel, I didn't even know it was connected to the rear hub.
 
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I had a little bit of play forming on my Ferrari 599xx evo rim. Wasn't much but enough to be noticeable. I didn't feel like messing with it and was also right when the Sparco R383 came out so I ordered that instead of dealing with the issue.
 
My T300 RS GT failed the other night, finished a daily race, went outside for a smoke and when I came back to the wheel, nothing. No response, no red led, dead as a dodo. Luckily the retailer who supplied it have agreed to replace it. Perhaps I will look at Fanatec instead
 

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