Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter Thread

[cjr3559]

Installed the Cambio and short shifter plate last night. I definitely like the tactility and short throws, but it really makes a loud clunk between 3rd & 4th and 5th & 6th gears. Not between 1st & 2nd though. Is this normal?

Also, Barry was right on when he said take care when removing the top cover during installation because well, I yanked the sequential wires out. Thought I was being careful.

Alas...

 

[John G]

Made a mod to mine too.

Bought 2 heavy duty ball spring plungers to put either side and drilled out the detents both sides a little more.

Has made a definite improvement in forwards backwards clunk and cost less than £10

 

[cjr3559]

Made a mod to mine too.

Bought 2 heavy duty ball spring plungers to put either side and drilled out the detents both sides a little more.

Has made a definite improvement in forwards backwards clunk and cost less than £10

I’d like to see a video of the installation if you can. Sounds promising but I have no clue what kind of ball spring plungers or how to install them. I’m not that mechanically inclined..

 

[asteroulis]

Made a mod to mine too.

Bought 2 heavy duty ball spring plungers to put either side and drilled out the detents both sides a little more.

Has made a definite improvement in forwards backwards clunk and cost less than £10

Done that myself as well. Exactly the same and it's much much better than the 3drap.it mod.

The spring plungers that usually are found are low force. I used min 60N max 100N. But I had to make a custom order to a shop near me for 10 plungers.

 

[John G]

I’d like to see a video of the installation if you can. Sounds promising but I have no clue what kind of ball spring plungers or how to install them. I’m not that mechanically inclined..

Unfortunately it's all back together now but the mod is actually very easy.

Remove the 9 mini screws holding the top to the bottom and you'll get to the guts of the mechanism. To do just a very simple mod, replace the existing ball spring plunger with the updated part (it just screws out, screw the new one in). You can also screw a second one in from the other side. It will be absolutely obvious once you have it in front of you.

You can also drill out the detents for a heavier clunk (Basically the dimples that the ball rests in). To do this, keep one ball spring plunger in place and put the lever in neutral, forward, back, and drill a small cone in each position from the opposite side. Go slow and don't go too deep - you don't want to make a big hole! Use a small drill bit like a 3-4mm. Then swap the plunger to the other side and drill the opposite face in the same way.

Then both plungers back in and adjust to your preference.

The parts you need are an M10 ball spring plunger. http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/490...ng-plungers-threaded-stainless-steel-wds-823/

The strong (heavy duty) plunger is 7kg initial 10kg final compared to like 2-4 For the standard

 

[cjr3559]

I installed the 3DRAP Cambio mod a few months ago, and well I accidentally pulled the two wires from the sequential circuit board (of course).

I managed to solder it all back together yesterday but interestingly the sequential works, but now the H-Pattern does not.

Long story, I’m likely not going to be able to fix this back to the original state, and since the TSS hanbrake is so expensive right now I decided to pick up another TH8A and leave the old one as possible a handbrake. Why not.

So I guess the question is; I am assuming I won’t get progressive braking with a TH8A this way, but is it possible on console? In certain games at least?

Anyone have any experience using two TH8A shifters simultaneously, and/or using the TH8A as a handbrake?

 

[BrainsBush]

"and/or using the TH8A as a handbrake?"


Yes. I use this TH8A as an analog handbrake on PC (tick the box in the config screen) besides my Fanatec SQ1/5 shifter.

 

[asteroulis]

I installed the 3DRAP Cambio mod a few months ago, and well I accidentally pulled the two wires from the sequential circuit board (of course).

I managed to solder it all back together yesterday but interestingly the sequential works, but now the H-Pattern does not.

Long story, I’m likely not going to be able to fix this back to the original state, and since the TSS hanbrake is so expensive right now I decided to pick up another TH8A and leave the old one as possible a handbrake. Why not.

So I guess the question is; I am assuming I won’t get progressive braking with a TH8A this way, but is it possible on console? In certain games at least?

Anyone have any experience using two TH8A shifters simultaneously, and/or using the TH8A as a handbrake?

I think that you may have bridged the two cable pins while soldering, therefore bypassing the switch. So it's in always pressed state=seq. If you look closer there is a chance this is an easy fix.

 

[Awong124]

I installed the 3DRAP Cambio mod a few months ago, and well I accidentally pulled the two wires from the sequential circuit board (of course).

Lol, I did the same thing while opening mine up. I was like, what the hell are these two dangling wires that don't lead anywhere? I looked it up and found out they were for the sequential function. Since I'll never use the sequential function, I just left it.

 

[cjr3559]

I think that you may have bridged the two cable pins while soldering, therefore bypassing the switch. So it's in always pressed state=seq. If you look closer there is a chance this is an easy fix.

Haven’t tried the fix (yet) but I got my second TH8A installed and use the old one as a handbrake which is awesome. Makes the DiRT games come alive! 👍

 

[BlacqueJacques]

Just ordered mine to complete my GT and Truck rig; alongside my F1 rig

 

[Bush_Killa-73]

Guys I'm purely using my shifter in sequential mode and as a handbrake. I'm looking to replace the knob with something longer and wondered if anyone could confirm if it's 8mm or 9mm knobs I'm searching for?

Also I'm if anyone has any particular suggestions? I'm in the UK but would consider international postage. I did see one custom made one in ebay from Russia which looked decent so far. Long and metal with ridges.

Cheers

 

[John G]

Guys I'm purely using my shifter in sequential mode and as a handbrake. I'm looking to replace the knob with something longer and wondered if anyone could confirm if it's 8mm or 9mm knobs I'm searching for?

Also I'm if anyone has any particular suggestions? I'm in the UK but would consider international postage. I did see one custom made one in ebay from Russia which looked decent so far. Long and metal with ridges.

Cheers

I believe the std thread is M9x1.25 and therefore M10x1.25 (a common gearknob thread) should also fit on albeit with a little clearance

 

[asteroulis]

It's M9x1.25
The M10 is too loose. Not gonna work.
The Thread on the base though is M6 so you should be able to get an M6 Rod or long bolt with a nut and washers and fit the M8 adaptor that usually comes with these knobs Really firmly.
Rarely have I seen M9 adaptors within those knobs , but they do exist..

 

[Franjo]

I had a board fry on my TH8 RS shifter, Thrustmaster wants $105 Canadian to replace it. I will not pay that or buy a new TH8A

 

[insert coin]

Unfortunately it's all back together now but the mod is actually very easy.

Remove the 9 mini screws holding the top to the bottom and you'll get to the guts of the mechanism. To do just a very simple mod, replace the existing ball spring plunger with the updated part (it just screws out, screw the new one in). You can also screw a second one in from the other side. It will be absolutely obvious once you have it in front of you.

You can also drill out the detents for a heavier clunk (Basically the dimples that the ball rests in). To do this, keep one ball spring plunger in place and put the lever in neutral, forward, back, and drill a small cone in each position from the opposite side. Go slow and don't go too deep - you don't want to make a big hole! Use a small drill bit like a 3-4mm. Then swap the plunger to the other side and drill the opposite face in the same way.

Then both plungers back in and adjust to your preference.

The parts you need are an M10 ball spring plunger. http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/490...ng-plungers-threaded-stainless-steel-wds-823/

The strong (heavy duty) plunger is 7kg initial 10kg final compared to like 2-4 For the standard

Did you drill the detents deeper or wider (or both)?

 

[John G]

Did you drill the detents deeper or wider (or both)?

I tried only to go deeper, ended up slightly wider too due to using a slightly bigger drill bit than I should. But not wide enough that the detent can wobble about around the sprung ball. can't go that deep tho as you'll end up going through and taking too much material out.

Also found that the plungers started to unwind with use. I put some m10 nuts on the outside of both to keep them nice and tight in

 

[asteroulis]

I tried only to go deeper, ended up slightly wider too due to using a slightly bigger drill bit than I should. But not wide enough that the detent can wobble about around the sprung ball. can't go that deep tho as you'll end up going through and taking too much material out.

Also found that the plungers started to unwind with use. I put some m10 nuts on the outside of both to keep them nice and tight in

Boy, I have done the exact same mod to mine. Even the M10 nuts.. And it's night and day. I mean, what a difference. I'm now trying to find a way to stiffen the spring force.

 

[John G]

Boy, I have done the exact same mod to mine. Even the M10 nuts.. And it's night and day. I mean, what a difference. I'm now trying to find a way to stiffen the spring force.

Sideways spring? I'm looking for some upgraded self centering springs but struggling at the moment. There is also the option to put a little plate on the end with a detent and use an m2 spring plunger through the frame just to give it a little clunk, but the spring force on such a small plunger is tiny I'm not sure its worth the effort.
For now I've just put a little o-ring around the legs on the self centering spring but I don't think it's done much.

 

[asteroulis]

Sideways spring? I'm looking for some upgraded self centering springs but struggling at the moment. There is also the option to put a little plate on the end with a detent and use an m2 spring plunger through the frame just to give it a little clunk, but the spring force on such a small plunger is tiny I'm not sure its worth the effort.
For now I've just put a little o-ring around the legs on the self centering spring but I don't think it's done much.

Yes, tried the o'ring but it won't do much. I don't see it possible to find an off the shelf torsion spring. So I asked a spring manufacturer and they were asking 20€ for the prototype, which I wasn't sure it was worth trying. Maybe if I decided to produce an amount worth selling, but then it would be getting at the fanatec css territory.
Last thing I have in mind is a really heavy duty rubber band that will hold the shaft. I'll keep you posted if I solve it somehow

 

[Tom]

Did a short and very amateur-like review of the TH8A. Hope you like it.

 

[insert coin]

I tried only to go deeper, ended up slightly wider too due to using a slightly bigger drill bit than I should. But not wide enough that the detent can wobble about around the sprung ball. can't go that deep tho as you'll end up going through and taking too much material out.

Also found that the plungers started to unwind with use. I put some m10 nuts on the outside of both to keep them nice and tight in

I drilled the indents a bit bigger on the second plunger side with a 3 mm drill (do that, it doesn't do much without drilling it up) and installed the stronger plungers + M10 nuts. It's much better now! A highly recommended mod. Many thanks.

 

[insert coin]

... and don't forget to grease both plungers .

 

[cjr3559]

I just got the TSS Handbrake and want to use it together with the TH8A. According to the TM support website the TSS needs plugged directly into the T300 base. Fine.

Also according to the TM support website the TH8A will work with certain games when plugged directly into the console (PS4 user). Up to this point I’ve always had the shifter plugged into the DIN connector on the wheel. No problems, everything works as advertised.

Though I haven’t plugged in the handbrake yet, I thought I would give the TH8A a go while plugged into the console via USB but it doesn’t work. (Tried on both DiRT Rally 2.0 and Dakar 18). On DR2 the input reporting recognizes the assigned gates, but when accelerating from a stop the car doesn’t budge, only revs in place. Same with Dakar 18. What am I missing?

 

[super_gt]

I just got the TSS Handbrake and want to use it together with the TH8A. According to the TM support website the TSS needs plugged directly into the T300 base. Fine.

Also according to the TM support website the TH8A will work with certain games when plugged directly into the console (PS4 user). Up to this point I’ve always had the shifter plugged into the DIN connector on the wheel. No problems, everything works as advertised.

Though I haven’t plugged in the handbrake yet, I thought I would give the TH8A a go while plugged into the console via USB but it doesn’t work. (Tried on both DiRT Rally 2.0 and Dakar 18). On DR2 the input reporting recognizes the assigned gates, but when accelerating from a stop the car doesn’t budge, only revs in place. Same with Dakar 18. What am I missing?

Try this:

* Some games require that you install the latest available updates for the TH8A shifter to function correctly (your games console must be connected to the internet).

 

[WildRun]

I just got the TSS Handbrake and want to use it together with the TH8A. According to the TM support website the TSS needs plugged directly into the T300 base. Fine.

Also according to the TM support website the TH8A will work with certain games when plugged directly into the console (PS4 user). Up to this point I’ve always had the shifter plugged into the DIN connector on the wheel. No problems, everything works as advertised.

Though I haven’t plugged in the handbrake yet, I thought I would give the TH8A a go while plugged into the console via USB but it doesn’t work. (Tried on both DiRT Rally 2.0 and Dakar 18). On DR2 the input reporting recognizes the assigned gates, but when accelerating from a stop the car doesn’t budge, only revs in place. Same with Dakar 18. What am I missing?

List of compatible PS4 Games for the TH8A is available here (in Games settings/PlayStation4 Games List): https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/th8a-en/. On this list for each game it's notify if you can use the USB Cable or the DIN cable.

 

[cjr3559]

Try this:

* Some games require that you install the latest available updates for the TH8A shifter to function correctly (your games console must be connected to the internet).

Checked, and everything has latest updates. Still doesn’t work and it shouldn’t take so many trials and errors when setting the inputs in-game. I may end up having to get the TM Simhub so everything is plugged directly into the wheel. Thanks for replying. 👍

 

[Racetee]

Maybe faulty USB extension cord, bad USB hub, try swapping ports on PS4, etc etc.

 

[cjr3559]

Maybe faulty USB extension cord, bad USB hub, try swapping ports on PS4, etc etc.

Not this either, my current handbrake is a second TH8A set as sequential and plugged into the same USB cord/PS4 hub and it works. Thanks though

Will keep fiddling around until the Simhub arrives in 6 weeks..

 

[Racetee]

Not this either, my current handbrake is a second TH8A set as sequential and plugged into the same USB cord/PS4 hub and it works. Thanks though

Will keep fiddling around until the Simhub arrives in 6 weeks..

Then try unplugging it and only using H shifter. Some games don't support having two TH8As plugged in (for example GT Sport).