- 194
- tehluckinator
Toe And Camber?
- Thread starter Tacticaldriftrx
- 46 comments
- 79,842 views
- 3,266
- FRAG-ME-CG
I think it's time to close this thread.
- 889
- TwinTurboCH
No way. It's a really useful thread. We just need a moderator to delete all the argumentative drivel that has been posted
- 496
- deca_tarce
- Deca Tarce
What we need is a big sticky that this and other teachy posts can be collected in.
- 194
- tehluckinator
this.
- 178
No way. It's a really useful thread. We just need a moderator to delete all the argumentative drivel that has been posted
What's wrong with discussing in tangents? Honestly, there's order and then there's just being strict.
- 889
- TwinTurboCH
- 492
- DaveM-sport
Leave it open!
Be a shame to lose James' post (great post btw... should really get you to explain some stuff to some of my stubborn mates some day as I seem to have set ideas about things) explaining it all as it'll only come up again in another week or two if the thread is locked or deleted!!!
in the real world, you have lots of variables like suspension bushing play etc as well as squat, body-roll and suspension compression but in the game its only the spring rates and arbs we have to contend with so it makes things alittle easier.
For race cars and with lots of pics etc...
On full on competition cars in the real world, we try to minimize the difference between static and dynamic camber when using all rose-jointed arms, links and stiff 75D polybushes etc or solid mounts for ease of setting the car up.
Here's a good article explaining it abit with pictures and things too.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
Be a shame to lose James' post (great post btw... should really get you to explain some stuff to some of my stubborn mates some day as I seem to have set ideas about things) explaining it all as it'll only come up again in another week or two if the thread is locked or deleted!!!
in the real world, you have lots of variables like suspension bushing play etc as well as squat, body-roll and suspension compression but in the game its only the spring rates and arbs we have to contend with so it makes things alittle easier.
For race cars and with lots of pics etc...
On full on competition cars in the real world, we try to minimize the difference between static and dynamic camber when using all rose-jointed arms, links and stiff 75D polybushes etc or solid mounts for ease of setting the car up.
Here's a good article explaining it abit with pictures and things too.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
- 178
Einh, I suppose it was a bit more on that side, alright moving along then
Mysterious R
(Banned)
- 447
- SFX_Calibre
This isn't aimed at anyone in particular, but it's come up a few times in this thread when people are trying to be concise.
I know this is splitting hairs but technically 'increasing camber' is not the right way to say it, as it implies that you are changing the camber from 0 to 0.5 or whatever. What you actually want to say is (since you want to be running negative camber) that you are 'increasing negative camber'.
I know it's a really minor point, but when trying to educate, you have to be as clear as possible.
Just to be a tool, there is only negative camber in GT5 from what I gather, so there is only one way to increase camber and that's negatively. Sorry for being a tool but I actually found that option strange and probably a bit confusing for new-comers trying to understand what camber is and how to use it. I guess it stops the positive camber protestors though.👍
Just splitting the split hairs a little more for novices. (clearly not yourself CH)
- 210
- Rovered78
increasing toe will (+) will make your car oversteer less when you apply your gas, Decrease (-) will make it oversteer more when on the gas. So yeah it would but instead of losing your straight line stability from going toe out just increase your oversteer by increasing your rear spring rate or damper then counter steer less If you only want angle
- 210
- Rovered78
Here ill repost what I did on my team forum, Twin chime in if anything is outa wack.
SUSPENSION
Ride Height:
ALL Lower reduces weight shift. (I dont know maybe its just me but I love old cars and stock suspension just cause how much the shift you can feel. its so easy haha.) I drop my cars usually 5 to 15mm lower than stock with the front 2 MM more than the rear but do as you please
Front lower: Increase OVERSTEER
Rear lower: Increase UNDERSTEER
Spring rates:
ALL stiffer: Doesn;t handle bumps as well and looses traction easy good rule Ive found the lower grip tires you run softer rates. Like comfort hard would like a much softer rate than say racing soft because the tires have to follow the road more to be able to grip. However soft rates require a higher ride height so you dont bottom out. Like mine softer
FRONT stiffer; Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR stiffer: Increase OVERSTEER
DAMPNERS
With a full tune suspension your able to tune extension and compression individualy. I set compression 1 to 2 notches below extention so the weight shifts and holds a little nicer (other reasons too). I like mine softer too.
ALL softer : Faster transitions from understeer to oversteer and vise versa, Also these settings are most noticeable at a corners entry and exit.
ALL stiffer: Slower transistions from under to oversteer and vise versa (E brake helps sometimes if understeering lol)
FRONT Stiffer : Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR STiffer : Increase OVERSTEER
ROLL BARS
All stiffer: Creates a much more solid feeling through the corners (Darty I guess) tune as you like. stock settings are usually good with the front lowered one notch
FRONT STIFFER: Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR STIFFER: Increase OVERSTEER
CAMBER (GT5 only allows negative camber however positive camber is rarely used in real life)
Front: I find any more than 3* is excessive, I usually hold 1.5 to 2.8*
Reduces UNDERSTEER
however REDUCES Straight line traction,stability and braking distance is increased
REAR: Same as front but I think 1* is plenty (for drift I use like .8)
Reduces OVERSTEER
Reduces straight line traction/ stability and braking distance increased.
TOE: Very very slight adjustments here as I try to tune with the springs first. Rear toe is much more noticable than the front
TOE IN looks like this (postive values in game)
front
/ |_| \
/ |_| \
TOE OUT looks like this (negitive values in game)
front
\ |_| /
\ |_| /
FRONT TOE IN: Reduces turn in and increases straight line stability
FRONT TOE OUT: Increased turn in but wanders at high speeds (Never noticed it) Im ususally set around -.08 or so
REAR TOE IN: Reduces power oversteer (factory is set at + .20)
REAR TOE OUT: Increased power oversteer
I like 0 to -.22 depending on power but remember keep it slight.
Okay sorry for basically reposting something you guys could've just searched but hopefully it'll be useful to someone.
REMEMBER when tuning just do one thing at a time and do nice slight adjustments as you think because it is extremely easy to mess the balance up and your favorite car
Have fun and keep your ass out there on the corner!!
SUSPENSION
Ride Height:
ALL Lower reduces weight shift. (I dont know maybe its just me but I love old cars and stock suspension just cause how much the shift you can feel. its so easy haha.) I drop my cars usually 5 to 15mm lower than stock with the front 2 MM more than the rear but do as you please
Front lower: Increase OVERSTEER
Rear lower: Increase UNDERSTEER
Spring rates:
ALL stiffer: Doesn;t handle bumps as well and looses traction easy good rule Ive found the lower grip tires you run softer rates. Like comfort hard would like a much softer rate than say racing soft because the tires have to follow the road more to be able to grip. However soft rates require a higher ride height so you dont bottom out. Like mine softer
FRONT stiffer; Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR stiffer: Increase OVERSTEER
DAMPNERS
With a full tune suspension your able to tune extension and compression individualy. I set compression 1 to 2 notches below extention so the weight shifts and holds a little nicer (other reasons too). I like mine softer too.
ALL softer : Faster transitions from understeer to oversteer and vise versa, Also these settings are most noticeable at a corners entry and exit.
ALL stiffer: Slower transistions from under to oversteer and vise versa (E brake helps sometimes if understeering lol)
FRONT Stiffer : Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR STiffer : Increase OVERSTEER
ROLL BARS
All stiffer: Creates a much more solid feeling through the corners (Darty I guess) tune as you like. stock settings are usually good with the front lowered one notch
FRONT STIFFER: Increase UNDERSTEER
REAR STIFFER: Increase OVERSTEER
CAMBER (GT5 only allows negative camber however positive camber is rarely used in real life)
Front: I find any more than 3* is excessive, I usually hold 1.5 to 2.8*
Reduces UNDERSTEER
however REDUCES Straight line traction,stability and braking distance is increased
REAR: Same as front but I think 1* is plenty (for drift I use like .8)
Reduces OVERSTEER
Reduces straight line traction/ stability and braking distance increased.
TOE: Very very slight adjustments here as I try to tune with the springs first. Rear toe is much more noticable than the front
TOE IN looks like this (postive values in game)
front
/ |_| \
/ |_| \
TOE OUT looks like this (negitive values in game)
front
\ |_| /
\ |_| /
FRONT TOE IN: Reduces turn in and increases straight line stability
FRONT TOE OUT: Increased turn in but wanders at high speeds (Never noticed it) Im ususally set around -.08 or so
REAR TOE IN: Reduces power oversteer (factory is set at + .20)
REAR TOE OUT: Increased power oversteer
I like 0 to -.22 depending on power but remember keep it slight.
Okay sorry for basically reposting something you guys could've just searched but hopefully it'll be useful to someone.
REMEMBER when tuning just do one thing at a time and do nice slight adjustments as you think because it is extremely easy to mess the balance up and your favorite car
Have fun and keep your ass out there on the corner!!
- 2,087
- AR, USA
- SFX_Adavicro
- SFX Adavicro
- 307
- super13brotary
*Patiently hopes that TwinTurboCH will get back to him on FC spring rates*
12.5 kg front and 12 rear
