TripleA5's 1986 Trans Am

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That looks like mostly surface rust. I'd sand it down and paint it.

Exhaust is a bit quiet but otherwise sounds pretty good.
 
Now that winter is over and it is warming up. We took the trans am out of storage. hopefully we will get more done with it now, since in the two months we had it last year before the snow came it only been out a few times. and only 800-900km in the last 4 to 8 years. so far all that needs to be checked is:
-the windshield cleaner, nothing comes out
-that rust on the t-tops
-(possibly) new weatherstripping
-lights faintly flickering. i read it could be the alternator.
 
It is pouring rain outside and went to go see if the car was leaking. I open the drivers door and the drivers seat has a wet spot. Sat inside for 5mins and found 2 leaks. one just above you on the drives side and in the back seat passenger side.
 
It is pouring rain outside and went to go see if the car was leaking. I open the drivers door and the drivers seat has a wet spot. Sat inside for 5mins and found 2 leaks. one just above you on the drives side and in the back seat passenger side.
Time to pull the headliner and start patching.
 
Not a whole lot to update on. We took the T/A to the campground a few weekends ago, which is about an hour and a ten minutes away, took the t-tops off and had blast on the way down. It is pretty comfortable to ride in, except some rattling and the the original owner who bought it new only bought it with heat, only heat. there might be something wrong but im not too sure because the heat is very hot and even on cold its still hot. But other than that not much to complain. it went to and back on one tank and a little bit of driving around town before we got gas. and apparently it gets 22mpg.
the only picture i took at the campground plus a flyby video of the sound.
IMG_1096_zps26fbf779.jpg

After we got back home i washed it and me and my dad took it for a fun run around town, it is faster than i expected. the torque is amazing and the automatic transmission is very nice. stopped at a Mercedes-Benz dealership to look at this Zetros with a electric smart car on the back of it.
ZetrosDealer_zpsdcee08eb.jpg
:dopey:
 
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If the heat feels very hot then it might be a really high temp thermostat. The previous owner might have installed a 190 or 210. You could install a 160 and that will for sure cool down engine and the amount of heat transferred inside the car.

Did you ever work on the rust in your T tops that is in post #30? Last thing you want is water leaking inside the car.
 
Isn't the stock thermostat 190? I know on Fords that's common.
 
i attempted to work on the rust and remove the panel that the rust is on but it requires the weather stripping to be taken off and to take off the weatherstripping most of the interior panels must be taken out. The car is stored in the garage now after it started leaking. I now half to find weatherstripping, possibly those rusted panels and a new headliner.
 
Isn't the stock thermostat 190? I know on Fords that's common.
Depends on the car. 190 is very common. So if he dropped to 160 it would make quite a bit of difference.

The other option is to bypass the heater core during the summer. It will prevent any warm antifreeze from entering your heater core at all. Then you can hook it back up before winter. VERY easy to do. You could probably bypass the heater core in about 5-10 minutes.
 
These 2 spots here. I would run 1 hose into both ends where the arrows are showing or cap as @Slash suggested. I doubt it will even take 10 minutes. All you need is a regular screwdriver. Very easy.

You could also hook up a inline shut off valve.
heater core bypass.jpg
 
You can get plugs dirt cheap from just about any auto parts retailer. Looks better than running a hose from point to point IMO.
 
Yup either way is a VERY easy fix. No wrong way to do it.

This is what a cap looks like. They might even have different colors in stock.
KHP-PG-303.jpg
 
Yup either way is a VERY easy fix. No wrong way to do it.

This is what a cap looks like. They might even have different colors in stock.
KHP-PG-303.jpg
I think you can get some that sit down in the hole and the are flush with the edge and then can be pulled out with a hook on the end of it. I think you have to thread it though.
 
Update:
It's been awhile and it's mainly because nothing new has happened in a long time. Recently me and my family took the RV down to Alberta to visit my dads cousin on his farm. And while we were there we took a trip up to Edmonton since my sisters wanted to see the WEM (West Edmonton Mall). I wanted to go for a different reason and that reason is to go to David T's Camaro and Firebird parts.
IMG_3571_zpshkmrhdwu.jpg

This has to be the best place to get parts for these cars in Canada. They have over 1500 Camaro/Firebird of all years. This is the lot for the project cars that you can buy.
IMG_3573_zpshxds36l2.jpg

IMG_3581_zpsi1zxdu3w.jpg

That white notchback on the right
Most of these project cars are pretty beat up but not too bad, wish we could of taken one home.:lol:
We spoke to the owner, who was very nice, honest and had a ton of information to give. Me and my dad asked him about the t-top weatherstripping and he told us if it doesn't look bad, don't change it because it doesn't mean changing it will fix leaking and can make it worse. So we didn't get that because the car is always in a garage and the weatherstripping isn't all that bad. Instead we picked a pair of these factory plastic T-top drip rails to replace our wrinkly old ones that keep getting caught in the window when closing the door.
IMG_3632_zps8gtbfrgo.jpg

And also the t-top divider in the middle that's rusting. I know it wasn't that bad, but we were there and the owner said it was one of the best ones he's seen and also gave us a deal.
IMG_3633_zpset3gisc4.jpg
IMG_3634_zpsm0rpck1b.jpg

He told us to sand it down and put some protective paint and clear coat to prevent rust from coming back. And the last thing about the heat coming out of the vents, all i do now is either drive with windows down and close the vent and its fine.
 
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Small update:
Not a whole lot has been done. Just changed the old rubber drip rails on the t-tops with the plastic ones i got in Alberta.
Wasn't hard to change them at all, just remove some weatherstripping, some screws and the new piece just snaps in place. Now the window doesn't catch on the rubber, plus it looks much cleaner.
Before:
IMG_3678_zpslirvlgjf.jpg

After:
IMG_3868_zpseph2oagm.jpg
 
That's a nice Trans Am you have there! 👍 Looks very clean for it's age and mileage! I've just picked up a Firebird myself! I'll likely come to this thread and @fortbo's for advice and parts!
 
That's a nice Trans Am you have there! 👍 Looks very clean for it's age and mileage! I've just picked up a Firebird myself! I'll likely come to this thread and @fortbo's for advice and parts!
Thanks! and congrats on your Firebird, im sure you'll enjoy it. 👍
 
Looking cool, I had a gunmetal '89 V6, stuck some Weld Pro Stars on that looked pretty neat although I too like the look of Outlaws on them :) It sounded great just didn't go particularly quickly :lol:
How's the spare compartment? I'd read they can be rust spots too, is the silly little space saver still in there? Took me 2 years to realise where it was :lol:
 
Looking cool, I had a gunmetal '89 V6, stuck some Weld Pro Stars on that looked pretty neat although I too like the look of Outlaws on them :) It sounded great just didn't go particularly quickly :lol:
How's the spare compartment? I'd read they can be rust spots too, is the silly little space saver still in there? Took me 2 years to realise where it was :lol:
Thanks, by spare compartment do you mean the little door in back where the spare is? If so then i just checked and there is still a cardboard liner in there, but i moved it around to see and it looks very clean. Not sure if the previous owner repainted it or if its still original though. I can try and get some pictures of it around Monday.
 
UPDATE:
Finally figured out why there was only heat coming out of the air vents!
Since it was one of the last weekends of going down to the trailer, i decided to drive the T/A to camp. On the way down, me and my dad were talking about the heat problem and we we're moving the lever and he notices there's no resistance when you move it. We took apart the center pod and it turns out the cable that controls the hot/cold door snapped, so the lever wasn't moving anything.
Here is the cable. (Ignore the loop, we we're making a test loop.)
26188cba-e0f9-4781-bf0a-a79ed78298ee_zpsu7omzbh5.jpg

Which goes in here at the top, with a loop.
IMG_3942_zpsjpmxpap8.jpg

The cable is basically music wire and can be bought at the hobby store for $1-2. Which is where i got a new wire. And then just make a double loop and feed it through. Except it wasn't that easy. The cable wouldn't go through at the end shown above. So it had to go through the other hole, Which meant making a loop while the cable was in the tube. Finished result at the lever end.
IMG_0505_zpscns78nc0.jpg

When it came to use the cable retainer to make sure the cable was the proper length to move the door fully, it was broken and wouldn't hold the cable. So we used one of these. To go on the stem and pass the cable through, crimp it and bend it at a 90° angle.
4c53d8b8-658e-4438-aa66-9f2c98a9af5e_zps5utus3an.jpg
IMG_0508_zpssv0jfwlb.jpg

When it came time to put the radio back in, i broke one the plastic mounts that hold it in place by accidentally resting the radio on it (The radio is a massive heave brick.)
IMG_0512_zpsvtdtyw7d.jpg

but was able to epoxy it back and its pretty solid now.
The air is less hot now, there's still some heat as the car has no A/C.
 
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I've been trying to install my Sony bluetooth radio in mine but when I thought the wiring was all correct, it blew the fuse when I switched the lights on. 🤬

Also the plastic mounts that hold the radio in place have all but snapped off so now I need a new surround or replacement mounts. Don't suppose you know where I'd be able to get hold of something like that?
 
I've been trying to install my Sony bluetooth radio in mine but when I thought the wiring was all correct, it blew the fuse when I switched the lights on. 🤬

Also the plastic mounts that hold the radio in place have all but snapped off so now I need a new surround or replacement mounts. Don't suppose you know where I'd be able to get hold of something like that?

Do you still have the broken mounts? Because as i was installing the radio i actually broke one off and was able to use plastic epoxy to put it back. I did some looking around for the center pod and the only place i have seen them sold is used on ebay or on the third gen forum might have one for sale. http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/.
 
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Do you still have the broken mounts? Because as i was installing the radio i actually broke one off and was able to use plastic epoxy to put it back. I did some looking around for the center pod and the only place i have seen them sold is used on ebay or on the third gen forum might have one for sale. http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/.

I've only just seen this.

I'm on the thirdgen forum and I do keep an eye out for anything on there. It's a great forum for these cars.

I don't have the broken mounts, I think they've escaped somewhere, the left one is still intact and still in place. I'll keep an eye out over Xmas for something, no doubt it'll cost a fair bit if I have to ship one over.
 
I don't suppose you've come across water getting into your headlights have you?

Water crept into mine over the winter and I managed to take it apart and drain it all. Moved the car over the weekend and spotted it had got in again.
 
I don't suppose you've come across water getting into your headlights have you?

Water crept into mine over the winter and I managed to take it apart and drain it all. Moved the car over the weekend and spotted it had got in again.

Nope, i have never gotten water inside the headlights. The car is stored inside during winter and rain so it doesn't get exposed to water often since it leaks through the roof.
 

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