TUNES AND COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE: Latest Tunes(GTR SpecV 09)(R8 4.2 07)
- Thread starter AngHell
- 129 comments
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- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
Sure thing will try to
GT6 Nurburgring 24HR C8 Laviolette '01 550pp Lap Time 7:54 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/spyker-c8-laviolette-01.150/
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GT6 Nurburgring 24HR RUF BTR '86 550PP Race 8:12 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/ruf-btr-86.149/
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GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife CTS-V Coupe '11 Lap Time 6:31 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/cadillac-cts-v-coupe-11.148/
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- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
Mm try this setup put ur ride height in the back 5 clicks higher than the front make sure rear springs are not higher or to far apart from the front , also try dampers compression 3 4 dampers extension 6 7 anti roll bars 6 7 having higher dampers and anti roll in the back holds oversteer if u still need to hold the rear end use ur last resource putting camber and rear positive toe until the car is stable, the reason I say last resource becouse if u fix this rear end snapping by going straight to putting alot of rear camber and toe ur car will still snap out of nowhere , also put ur drivetrain low initial torq 10 acceleration 7 braking 5 , hope this ramdon tips helps u tune ur car ho and u should check my btr and rgt tunes videos this cars had the same problem ur describing,.
- 25
- Venezuela
- baravnzla
Are you completely sure about this sentence? Not trying to argue with you as i don't have tried any of your tunes but i race mostly with sub-500pp cars (350 hp or less) and LSD definitively make a difference, even half a second in some cases just by messing with it... I'd like to know how you get to that conclusion.
killerjimbag
(Banned)
- 4,018
- The Great White North
- abetterplaya
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
You'r right I need to update that pice of imformation or remove it. Very high LSD would only be a problem at probably 520 pp and over but still that depends on the type of driving style and tune aswell , thanks for noticing things that don't make sence in the tuning guide
Lol I will post some SS tunes soon, by the way check the Camaro z28 69 video tire wear on real grip real slip light damage and not all my videos are low grip, check race setting at the end of every race
just waned to let everyone know, i just updated some tunes on gtplanet tune database
Chevrolet ~ Corvette Z06 (C60 '06
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/chevrolet-corvette-z06-c60-06.104/
this car i m now able to do 6:20 on Nurburgring Nordschleife
Maserati ~ Gran Turismo S '08
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/maserati-gran-turismo-s-08.105/
this car i m now able to do 8:4 on 24hr and 6:26 on Nurburgring Nordschleife
Shelby ~ Series One Super Charged '03
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/shelby-series-one-super-charged-03.103/
this car i m now able to do solid 6:15 with less hard work
Lexus ~IS 200 (J) '98
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/lexus-is-200-j-98.122/
this car i m now able to do 6:38 on Nurburgring Nordschleife
Toyota ~ FT-86 G SPORTS Concept '10
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/toyota-ft-86-g-sports-concept-10.102/
a more stable less jumpy car 6:33 on Nurburgring Nordschleife
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A common practice tuning FF cars is to run stiffer springs in the rear with balanced dampers to SR & Stroke (if one stroke is much shorter then the other, the short stroke needs more damp then the long stroke) the difference then what people think is the arb are set in reverse. Increasing the rear roll stiffness vs the front. This reduces grip on the rear shifting the grip balance to the front. Combined with toe out up front & no toe in the rear /0.0 if its a slow track, some toe out, if speeds over 80 this becomes highly unstable.
killerjimbag
(Banned)
- 4,018
- The Great White North
- abetterplaya
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- Indonesia
- romy novanda
Wow... is the reaction of mine after first try your tune (spyker). From now on i think i will be your tunes fan. Yes your tunes are amazing. They fast, stable, controllable, easy to drive, no doubt to push to limit. I tried your spyker, rx8, cobra, tvr, hsc, series one last night, they all amazing. I will give 5 star to these tunes for sure! 👍 Thank you for the tunes Sir. I'll try the others soon.
- 163
- San Diego
http://www.gtvault.com/gt5/tuning-guide/
does this also apply to GT6?
Not trying to step on toes, wasn't this written by fumes at GTVault
does this also apply to GT6?
Not trying to step on toes, wasn't this written by fumes at GTVault
- 11,660
- GTP_Orido
The guide was for GT3/4, good find SDsnakebutt, the OP guide is almost carbon copy with some alterations to make it look different ? At least Fumes, the original author should have the credit, unless Anghell is Fumes
The original GT3/4 Guide from GTVault made by Fumes :
This guide has been in the making for months now. It has taken this long due to time constraints on my part. Please note that the guide is based in part on GT3 & GT4, but the theories can be applied to any version of the game.
Weight Transfer
Understanding the simple physics of weight transfer is key to tuning cars. When stationary, the weight of the car is distributed evenly on all four wheels. Where does the weight of the car go during acceleration? The rear wheels, right? Likewise, during braking the weight is transferred to the forward wheels. Also, during cornering the weight is transferred to the outside wheels. That is, in a left turn, the weight of the car goes to the two wheels on the right (when looking at the car from behind).
Understeering and Oversteering
Understeering is the lack of responsiveness of the car’s front in turning into a corner. That is, the car doesn’t want to turn. Generally, FWD and 4WD cars exhibit understeering characteristics.
Oversteering is the tendency of a car’s rear to slip out in mid-corner. That is, the car spins out too much. Generally speaking, overpowered RWD cars exhibit oversteering characteristics. Oversteering is not the be confused with "Drifting" or "Power Sliding". Generally, drifting is induced with wheels losing grip intentionally and should be controllable with the throttle. Whereas, understeering and oversteering is uncontrollable and unwanted.
Our aim is to get rid of understeer and oversteer as much as possible, since it ruins lap times and tire wear. Although in real life, a slightly understeering car (very slight) is always faster than an oversteering car.
Spring Rates
The Spring Rate controls the transfer of weight of the car. During braking and acceleration the weight of the car shifts forward and backward. Softer front springs aid in shifting the weight to the front, thereby reducing understeer. Softer rear springs allow the weight to transfer to the rear, consequently reducing oversteer. Alternatively, to induce understeer or oversteer, do the opposite and stiffen the corresponding spring rates. Keep in mind that spring rates that are too soft produce a car that is not as responsive as one with a stiffer spring rate. So, you have to find a compromise.
Let's use a medium weight FR car (1200kg) as an example. Since you want more grip at the rear during acceleration in an FR car, the spring rates, if hard, resists the weight to the rear, making the rear hard and want to fight back, loosing grip. So we want to make the rear take more weight during acceleration for better grip = reduce rear spring rate from 16 to ... let's try 13 first. Test it again, see how that goes.
FR cars have more varied requirements. FR cars seem to prefer a slightly lower front spring rate to reduce understeer. Set your front springs up to 2kg lower. But if you experience too much oversteer, reduce rear springs.
MR cars prefer a more neutral spring setting, that is, close front and rear settings.
In an FF car, since the driving wheels are in the front and weight goes to the back, during acceleration, we make the rear spring rates as stiff as possible to resist the front wheels from loosing too much grip by reducing weight transfer to the rear while accelerating. However, the front spring rates must not be too soft (low spring rate#) as most of the car's weight is up the front.
So the next big question is how much Spring Rate is not too much or too little?
This question will depend on the weight of the car itself.
Use this as a general guide only.
Light cars 1000kg or less = values of 9 – 12
Moderate weight 1000kg to 1400kg = values of 12 – 15
Heavy cars 1400kg upwards = values of 15 – 17
Rally cars on dirt only = values of 5 - 7
Spring rates also help soak up the bumps and ripples of an uneven road. Take for instance any city track ripple strip riding is unavoidable, a softer string rate will aid in riding over the strips. As a general rule, reduce your spring rate values by two from the above figures on city and any bumpy tracks. It's easy to make your car too stiff. If this happens, the suspension will not be able to deal with bumps and will hop its way around turns instead of compliantly absorbing the bumps and finding traction
Ride Height
Ride Height is the height of clearance the car has between the bottom of the car and the road. The ride height has an impact on the car's centre of gravity, and thus on its behaviour when cornering or braking. Basically any shift in weight.
In general, lowering the Ride Height will bring the centre of gravity of the car lower, making the car more responsive by decreasing body roll because the weight of the car is now lower.
Raising the Ride Height will have the opposite affect, which will increase body roll.
That was the generalised bit.
Like with all parts of the car that you can tune, Over tuning and Under tuning will each have their drawbacks. A lower ride height in the front than the rear will induce weight transfer to the front increasing the load. This may be what is wanted.
Ride height will also impact the available suspension travel rate, so make sure the spring rate is high enough to prevent the suspension from "bottoming-out". Having the ride height too low and suspension won't work very well. The trickiest part is to have your ride height as low as possible, for maximum tire grip and overall neutral handling balance, while still allowing for enough suspension travel. In order to do this effectively, compensate a lower ride height by adding more spring rate.
Examples:
Lower front and Higher rear ride height - the weight of the car is shifted towards the front. Provides more stability while accelerating. Brake response is faster since weight is already where the braking power is highest. Best for FF, FR and 4WD cars. (Be careful though, if it’s too low, you will find the car twitchy and liable to veer off in random directions under heavy braking).
Equal front and rear ride height – weight is distributed equally. Best suited for MR cars.
High front and Low rear ride height - the weight of the car is shifted to the rear, provides immediate throttle response during acceleration. Braking response will suffer, however, since more weight shifting during braking from rear to front is required. As such, this configuration is not used very often. If used, probably only FR cars would benefit.
In GT3 and GT4, try to allow at least 10 points from the minimum ride height. And set the rear about 5 points higher than the front. This allows sufficient suspension travel to keep the car stable under heavy braking and weight shift towards the front of the car. On very bumpy roads like Nurburgring or El Capitan, increase ride height and reduce spring and shocks. This “soaks” up the bumps more effectively.
Shocks
These work in conjunction with Springs and Stabilizers. To dampen the oscillations of the spring after travelling over bumps and dips. When weight transfers from back/front and side/side, or when you go over a bump on the road, the wheels/tires compress (bound), and when you are past the bump the wheel returns to equilibrium after the compression (rebound) basically the suspension movement, right ? With me so far?
Bound damping affects how far the suspension travels up, towards the wheel well. When the suspension is on its way back down, rebound damping affects how far it goes the other way. More precisely, bound damping affects the compression rate, while rebound damping affects the expansion rate.
If you make your bound damping too stiff, your car will be skittish over rough surfaces. Rebound damping also affects your steering as you transition into and out of corners.
In general, stiffer springs are better suited for flat tracks with sharp turns. They prevent your springs from coiling too quickly, which decreases the dip you have when cornering and braking. Softer springs are better suited for winding, coiling tracks, but they’ll also lengthen your braking distance.
Bound is the rate at which the shock compresses. Rebound is the rate at which the shocks decompress. So having bound at 9 and rebound at 2, make the car stiffer when absorbing a bump, compression is harder. The suspension on rebound will not return as fast. This suppresses weight transfer. Not very good because the tire won't make contact with the ground fast enough causing slip = Oversteer. Okay for FF, bad for FR cars. On the other hand, bound at 2 and rebound at 9, absorbs more bumps, but returns the shocks the opposite way fast. You'll find the car literally jump over small bumps. This is also undesirable, as the tire is not in contact with the road. Try this on a Rally car in dirt to see the exaggerated affects, you'll know what I mean. Bound at 7 and rebound at 6, keeps the tires stiff and return to the ground slower. Having bound at 6 and rebound at 7, will result in a good stiff compression of shocks and a higher bound means the tires return a bit faster to the ground but not too fast. This is the ideal configuration, a slightly higher rebound.
Now adjust front bound and rebound to have lower values than rear bound & rebound. This will result in more weight transfer to the front, for example during braking, to provide more grip into the turn.
FR car oversteering? reduce rear bound.
FF car understeering? reduce front bound OR increase rear bound & rebound.
4WD oversteering? reduce front bound AND reduce rear rebound.
MR cars - keep bound and rebound figures the same. MR cars need to be treated a bit like FR but try to keep both front and rear figures the same.
Stabilizers
Controls the roll of the car from side to side and helps stabilise the car during cornering. Stiff makes the car respond well to sharp turns. Ie, when you turn the steering wheel (or PS2 controller) you notice the car react to that quicker. Car feels more stable. Downside to that, is if Stabilizers are too high, it reduces weight transfer to the outside tires, reducing grip during cornering and causes understeer or oversteer. Softer allows the car to lean into the turn giving greater grip. But too soft, causes the car to be unresponsive. Eg, Car understeers too much = reduce front stabilizers or likewise increase rear stabilizers. Make the front value less than the rear to reduce under steer. On lower powered cars, less than 450hp, tire spin is less of a risk, so stabilizers can be increased. Take a Mazda MX5 LS setup for an example. Stabilizers at 7 and this thing flies for a <400hp car. On high powered cars, always start with a value of 4 and fine tune from there.
FF drivetrain cars exhibit a slightly different response to the above, you want a higher front stabilizer setting than the rear. This will have an affect of reducing body roll of an FF car, keeping both tires firmly on the road rather than shifting all the weight to the outside tires and reducing grip. However, don't make stabilizers too high or you run into problems of over tuning.
Toe
Is the angle of the tires, as viewed from the top of the car.
For the sake of the different value notations in GT3 and GT4 I'll use a generic value notation in this guide. So when I say " -'ve one step from default value" take that to mean -0.5 in GT3, and -1 in GT4.
4WD and FF use -'ve two steps from default / +'ve one step from default (front/rear) as a start. FR and RR use 0 / -'ve one step from default. Negative toe in the rear wheels will stop oversteer because the wheels are at this angle /--\ (looking from the top of the car). That's great for corners but reduces acceleration on the exits and straights because there isn't as much tyre contact to the ground as a zero toe like this |--| . So as you can see there is a compromise.
/-\ = negative toe/ Toe In (view from Top of car)
\-/ = positive toe/ Toe Out (view from Top of car)
In 4WDs and FWDs use negative toe in front and positive toe in rear to reduce understeering. Quick physics lesson. Looking at the diagram above ... when going around a left hand corner the weight of the car leans to the right two tires. The negative front toe makes the car turn sharper left, while the positive toe rear swings the rear further out to the right, making the car point left into the left hand corner. In RWDs and MR cars, use neutral toe in front, and negative toe in rear to reduce oversteer. If RWD is understeering slightly, use negative toe front slightly and neutral toe rear.
The compromise of fixing understeering or oversteering using toe adjustments is that tire wear will increase. There is always a compromise in every adjustment, we don't live in a perfect world. Always try to reduce oversteer and understeer using adjustments to springs, shocks and stabilizers first. Only resort to toe adjustments as a last resort, since any toe value added will increase tire wear.
LSD
Unlike TCS, where it reduces power to all wheels equally for traction control, Limited Slip Differential (LSD) keeps tires from spinning by transferring it to the other tires that have grip. Usually during cornering.
Accel = during acceleration, Decel = during braking.
Accel is straight forward. reduces tire spin during acceleration, reducing oversteer in FR cars and reducing understeer in FF cars.
Decel, reduces tire spin during braking. Keep this low at 15 - 20, lest it induces understeer by way of reducing braking power.
Init : the initial strength of the LSD affect.
LSD is useless on cars with less than 450hp. There isn't enough HP in the car to cause wheel spin anyway. So why have it, as it slows the car down and causes extra understeer.
4WD, as little LSD as possible. LSD stuffs 4WD up big time, causing understeer. Think about it. 4WD already has grip to all 4 tires. If LSD is activated, it transfers grip to the other tires, which REDUCES grip to the tire loosing grip. Silly. You'll see a lot of setups here, that use strong LSD on 4WDs. They think this controls understeer, but really what is happening is that they are reducing the power to the wheels = slower car = less understeer. If you are gonna have high LSD on a 4WD to get rid of understeer, you might as just drive slowly around corners. Use TCS to control wheelspin on high powered 4WDs (greater than 500hp).
FF - High init and accel LSD. Decel LSD as low as possible. But most FF cars are very low power, so don't use LSD. Exceptions are the Type R, FTOs, etc with more than 300hp.
MR / FR - Init (depends on Car's HP), Accel higher to reduce oversteer on acceleration. Low decel LSD to reduce understeer on braking.
ASM & TCS
I hate ASM, it induces understeer. Anything above 0, causes the car to behave other than it should and negates the tuning done else where. Without knowing how to tune the car you can use ASM, but if you know how to tune it following the above guide, turn ASM off ! If you change nothing else with the setup of the car, change ASM to 0.
In GT4, you will see options for both ASM Oversteer and Understeer. This still does the same thing as ASM in GT3. The ASM Oversteer will reduce power to the spinning wheels during an oversteer situation and vice versa. Again, reduce these values to 0 before you start tuning.
ASM can be reduced to 0 even on unmodified cars.
Traction Control System (TCS) is where power to the driving wheels is reduced in the event of wheel spin. Unlike, LSD, where power is transferred to the opposite wheel that is not slipping, LSD, reduces overall power to the driving wheels. Effectively slowing the car down to reduce wheelspin.
The main aim of TCS tuning is to use only enough TCS to stop wheel spin and drifting. No more, no less. This has the added benefit of preserving tire wear, but not sacrificing too much power.
Finding the right TCS figure for a car is a bit of a Trial and Error effort.
Light and More powerful cars will require more TCS. Heavier and less powerful cars will obviously need less TCS.
A general tuning technique I use is to start TCS at 0. Then ask myself, is the car spinning around slow corners and at take off?
If the answer is yes, then increase TCS by 2.
If the answer is no, then leave it at current amount.
Repeat. Until wheelspin is nil, then reduce TCS by 1. If still no spin then leave it.
You can use TCS to fine tune at this stage. If you want a car that oversteers, reduce TCS a bit from this figure you just reached.
You want to reach a point where the car is not loosing it’s rear end around slower corners, while still keeping the TCS figure as low as possible to get the most power to the road. On take offs, reduced wheelspin on the spot will increase acceleration.
Fine tuning here can see increase tire wear benefits, but remember the more TCS you use the slower the car is, even if you have better tire wear.
However, when tuning TCS for 4WD cars, it is best to use close to no TCS at all. Since we have 4 driving wheels, there will always be at least one set of wheels with grip even if the other set is loosing grip. By having TCS on at any figure, will just be slowing a 4WD car down.
Always use 0 TCS for 4WD cars.
FR cars benefit the most from TCS.I find anything under 500bhp in GT4 will not need TCS. The weight of the car will also determine the need for TCS. Light cars eg F1, Sprinter Trueno Shigeno, can have TCS at 4 to 6 with great benefit. For heavier cars, start TCS at 3 and tune. You should not need much more than 5, unless you want to conserve more tire wear.
This is not THE rule, just a guide. Tuning is still required.
FF cars benefit from TCS a bit, but not as much as FR cars, since the driving wheels are also the ones that TCS will be affecting. Too much TCS and it slows the car's acceleration and reduces understeer. No TCS and it understeers. So with FF cars, use between 1 to 2 TCS.
Remember, the aim of tuning race cars is to make it as fast as possible, not slow it down with ASM or TCS or LSD. Let the driver do that. Your job as tuner is to get the car to be as fast as possible while still being as controllable as possible.
Downforce
Use as little as possible on tracks like Test course. All other tracks, higher front DF reduces understeer. Helps stabilise the car at high speeds. Keep front and rear close to the same figure, with a slightly higher rear downforce. What I mean is, avoid figures like 0.5 front and 1.2 rear downforce settings. A difference of no more than 0.2 is advisable. Or in GT4 figures, a difference of no more than 20 between front and rear downforce is advised.
Exceptions for FF cars, where I regularly use max front downforce, with little rear downforce. This helps reduce front understeer and induce rear oversteer.
VCD
Only available on 4WDs. The figure in GT3/GT4 is the % amount of power delivered to the front tires. Keep it low to reduce understeer (ie towards 10%). A figure of 10% means that 90% of the power is driven in the rear wheels, making the car almost like a RWD. Except for rally cars. That should get you started.
Brakes
Stronger front brake balance causes the front of the car to dip more than the back, that is, more weight transfers to the front wheels. Apart from having greater stopping power, it allows better tire contact to allow the car to steer into the corner while under brakes.
Stronger rear brake balance, will cause the rear wheels to lockup slightly (dependant on how strong you set balance) when the weight transfers to front during braking. Causing slight oversteer. Not a bad thing, you might want to induce a bit of oversteer in heavily understeering cars.
Too much front brakes and the front tires will lockup, causing severe understeer, which isn't good. And too much rear brakes can cause the back to lockup causing severe oversteer.
As you can see there is a cause and effect for each setting. Too much or too little of a setting will cause undesired effects. eg, too much front brakes and the tires lock causing understeer. Too little, and the car doesn't stop fast enough, causing the car to continue it's momentum straight ahead.
Set brakes up for maximum stopping power without the front locking up. Depending on the car's behaviour, you can induce oversteer by setting higher rear brake balance. Finding the figure for maximum brakes just short of lockup will depend on the weight of the car (excluding speed) and to some extent spring rates. Obviously, a lighter car will reach lockup before a heavier car. OR, you can just use trial and error, watch the screen for smoke from tires during braking in a straight line. If it smokes up, the wheels have locked up, reduce brake balance. In general, finding the front's lockup threshold is more important than the rear. So adjust front balance first while keeping the rear brake low. Then adjust rear after you find the maximum braking figure for the front, usually 1 or 2 less than front will be good enough (because I'm lazy to repeat it again for rear ).
As long as the front doesn't lock up during braking, it won't understeer. Of course you shouldn't be braking while turning into the corner at the same time, that's too late. You should have done the braking before the corner and be at a speed where you can maintain throttle while in the corner and can floor it just after the apex of the corner.
Camber
Camber is the angle of the wheels in relation to the ground. The tire's relationship with the road changes as the suspension moves through its travel.
Ideally, you want a camber curve that keeps the tire straight up and down when you are driving straight, and leans the tire in slightly (1 to 2 degrees of negative camber) during cornering.
So a neutral camber will be |-| (while looking at the car front on),
A Negative Camber will be /-\,
And a Positive camber will be \-/.
(TOP LEFT) Positive camber: The bottoms of the wheels are closer together than the tops.
(TOP RIGHT) Negative camber: The tops of the wheels are closer together than the bottoms.
(CENTER) When a suspension does not gain camber during deflection, this causes a severe positive camber condition when the car leans during cornering. This can cause funky handling.
(BOTTOM) Fight the funk: A suspension that gains camber during deflection will compensate for body roll. Tuning dynamic camber angles is one of the black arts of suspension tuning.
Camber allows the weight of the car lean on the outer tires, providing additional contact in a corner. However, on level ground and straights, the more camber you have the less contact surface area the tire has to the road.
Thus a negative camber in the front tires is always recommended, and in most situations the front camber value should be higher than the rear. Rear camber should be as close to Zero or neutral as much as possible. Thus, providing as much grip to the rear as possible. Unless you are tuning to reduce oversteer, then a little negative camber is okay. On oval tracks, the inner wheels will need positive camber and the outer wheels will need negative camber to counter the angle of the track. Using camber to reduce oversteer and understeer should be treated as a secondary option to adjusting springs and shocks first. Unless you are intentionally tuning for a drift car. 4WD and FWD recommendations, start at default value 2.1 and adjust up to a value of 4. RWD recommendations, start at 2.1 and adjust up to a value of 3.
Using more camber than suggested is unnecessary and will result in reduced grip on flat straights and increase tire wear.
Note: in the GT series, you can only ever select negative camber values. So when the setup screen says front camber is 2.1, that means camber is at -'ve 2.1. Polyphony must have remove the -'ve since you can't set +'ve camber.
Ballast
Ballast is a GT4 specific tuning option. Ballast allows you to add weight to an already light car, with the specific intention of altering the weight balance of the car. This works hand in hand with Weight Balance.
Weight Balance
Weight Balance is also a GT4 specific tuning option and works hand in hand with the Ballast. After adding Ballast to the car, you are able to adjust the weight balance of the car. You can have either more weight in the front or the rear depending on how the car is behaving.
If you find the car oversteering, you could adjust the weight balance towards the rear, giving you more weight in the rear to reduce oversteering. Likewise, if the car is understeering, move more weight balance towards the front.
Gears
I will keep gear tuning to a simplified discussion here. As such we will be using the Auto gear adjustments.
A short gear will result in higher torque but a lower top speed.
A wide gear will result in lower torque but a higher top speed.
With that in mind, tune your gears for each track separately. Using the fastest straight on the particular track as a testing point.
If your revs are not reaching the redline at the end of the straight, you can shorten the gears, until you find the revs just reaching the redline. I find it easiest and quickest to just change the Auto Gears, rather than change the final drive ratio. Changing the final drive ratio does basically the same thing as the auto gear setup, but you could potentially mess up the way the car accelerates if you fiddle with final ratio too much. If you find the gears topping out too quickly on a faster track, just up the auto setting a bit at a time until your top speed just hits the redline.
On some fast tracks like Tokyo, Test track, etc, you can increase the auto gears too, since it's top speed you want more than acceleration. If you find that your revs are topping out on long straights, then increase this auto gear a bit more. If, you are not near the redline at the end of the longest straight, then you have increased the auto gear setting too far, reduce it slightly (towards the left).
Then, on slow tracks, with lots of twisting, like the Cote D' Zor, or Seattle, you can decrease the gearing up to 5 steps from the default auto gear value, since it's acceleration you want not top speed. On the longest straight of these tracks, if you find that you are not reaching the top of 6th, or even lower, decrease the gears until the revs just hits the redline.
AYC
Yaw Control. Similar to LSD, this controls the distribution of torque to the left and right wheels. Seems to only be available on Mitsubishi Lancer EVO cars.
Helps 4WD cars reduce understeer and gives a faster turning ability.
If AYC is set too high there is even a risk of creating too much oversteer, and increases tire wear significantly. Although, the car's turn in ability is tremendoThe us.
Try to keep this figure around 80 - 90 (middle), for the best compromise.
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
i never say the guide was made by me, but it has being something i had for along probably time probably 4 years and i only copy the guide i lost all info about who wrote it. since i recently join gt planet and i m sharing tunes of my i though putting the tuning guide as base example was a great idea and decided to share it here, but since you have the info of the creator i will be more than happy to give credit to it , and thanks for letting me know there is no problem to give credits to who credits do,
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- 163
- San Diego
Ya completely understandable 👍. To be honest i only pointed out that it was from somewhere else because i wanted to make sure that all the information was still relevant to GT6. Im a very beginner tuner myself so i wouldn't be able to skim through and be able to tell if everything in that guide still applies to GT6. But if you have been using it and have obviously been creating some solid quality tunes than that should show its still relevant.
Sorry if my post came off as anything other than me just wanting to make sure all the info was good for GT6. I know how hard it is as a newbie tuner and incorrect/outdated info could really send other beginner tuners down a bad starting path.
Good luck in all your future projects and Thank you for taking the time to post the tunes and videos you have created
Sorry if my post came off as anything other than me just wanting to make sure all the info was good for GT6. I know how hard it is as a newbie tuner and incorrect/outdated info could really send other beginner tuners down a bad starting path.
Good luck in all your future projects and Thank you for taking the time to post the tunes and videos you have created
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
i never say the guide was made by me, but it has being something i had for along probably time probably 4 years and i only copy the guide i lost all info about who wrote it. since i recently join gt planet and i m sharing tunes of my i though putting the tuning guide as base example was a great idea and decided to share it here, but since you have the info of the creator i will be more than happy to give credit to it , and thanks for letting me know there is no problem to give credits to who credits do,
i think is more accurate to gt6 than it ever was to gt5 lolYa completely understandable 👍. To be honest i only pointed out that it was from somewhere else because i wanted to make sure that all the information was still relevant to GT6. Im a very beginner tuner myself so i wouldn't be able to skim through and be able to tell if everything in that guide still applies to GT6. But if you have been using it and have obviously been creating some solid quality tunes than that should show its still relevant.
Sorry if my post came off as anything other than me just wanting to make sure all the info was good for GT6. I know how hard it is as a newbie tuner and incorrect/outdated info could really send other beginner tuners down a bad starting path.
Good luck in all your future projects and Thank you for taking the time to post the tunes and videos you have created
lol just saw all your likes thanks that really made my day will try to keep working hard to give you guys decent tunes,
by the way sorry everyone i couldn't do my Sunday tunes because of work and family matters will post some tunes tomorrow, and sorry will try to keep up with my gtplanet acount it takes me forever to reply
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- 36,697
- Scotland
- GTP_daan
Then please do so, in the first post, in bold letters, and also give an indication as to to when it was written.
And cut out the multi posting please. We have an edit button and a multi-quote* feature. Please use them in future.
* Click on quote. The quote will then be added to the reply box. Find the next post you wish to quote. Click quote. That reply will also be added to the reply box. Repeat as necessary.
- 227
- Indonesia
- romy novanda
Cant wait for new tunes 
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
i m not sure if i have it, but i can get it and tune it for you this coming weekend, let me know the pp you want it done
here are some new tunes
GT6 Nurburgring 24HR Red Devil 550pp Lap Time 8:10 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/stielow-engineering-red-devil.234/
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife 190 E 2.5 -16 Evolution ll '91 Lap Time 6:44 With Tune
this video got cut of righ at the end where power setting where being share,
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/mercedes-benz-190-e-2-5-16-evolution-ll-91.233/
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- 2,636
- MA
- CAPECOD104 SGETI
Thanks for the new tunes. I have a small request which will benefit the users of the data base in regards to your updates. Will you please list the date you updated the tunes. I have seen other tuners list any updates in the 'game version' section. just a suggestion. thanks for the great tunes
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- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
Here are some new tunes and a update
FORD ~ Ford GT '06 UPDATED 5/13/2014
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/ford-ford-gt-06.289/
GT6 Nurburgring 24HR LFA '10 550PP Lap Time 7:54 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/lexus-lfa-10.294/
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife ZZll '00 550PP Lap Time 6:19 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/tommykaira-zzll-10.295/
FORD ~ Ford GT '06 UPDATED 5/13/2014
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/ford-ford-gt-06.289/
GT6 Nurburgring 24HR LFA '10 550PP Lap Time 7:54 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/lexus-lfa-10.294/
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife ZZll '00 550PP Lap Time 6:19 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/tommykaira-zzll-10.295/
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife S2000 '06 500PP 6:37 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/honda-s2000-06.327/
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife SLS AMG '10 550pp 6:27 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/mercedes-benz-sls-amg-10.330/
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/honda-s2000-06.327/
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife SLS AMG '10 550pp 6:27 With Tune
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/mercedes-benz-sls-amg-10.330/
- 237
- napa CA
- AngHel-_-l
GT6 Nurburgring Nordschleife Chevelle Ss 454 '70 500pp Lap Time 6:56 500-550pp Tunes included in video
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/chevrolet-chevelle-ss-454-70.331/
Here is a link to gtplanet tune database where you can comment and rate the tune for this specific car and where i'll be updating my tunes if i can improve them
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/tunes/chevrolet-chevelle-ss-454-70.331/
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