Tuning seems mostly fixed in GT6!

  • Thread starter z06fun
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z06fun

z06fun

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z06fun
So as many of you know, in GT5 the tuning of springs, roll bars, shocks etc seemed to be backwards from the result you would get in real life. Stiffer front springs would generally give you more front grip when turning, etc
Been messing around with it a bit in GT6, starting with a fairly balanced car, c6 z06 vette. Added the race suspension, no mods other except that and the brake kit to get the brake bias to work. Seems like the spring and roll bar tuning is now working properly! I was properly able to convert the car to definite understeer bias with stiff front springs/bar & definite oversteer bias with stiff rear springs/bar. Amazing that the new physics/tire model is working properly enough to allow this to work correctly!:bowdown:
Maybe others can chime in on their experiences so far in this area.


Other things I've tested- LSD still seems to act like GT5, where high accel stiffness adds over steer under throttle etc.
Really loving this game :cheers:
 
Ride height does make a noticeable difference in how the cars handle. I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but my ride height settings are [roughly] 70-150, but the unit is "in." I don't think there's many track cars with 70-150 inches of ground clearance.
 
i've noticed it too. settings and setups seem to make more sense and are in tune with 'the real world'.. at least thus far. should make for a quiet tuning forum, at least a lack of bickering about real vs gt6. :D
 
I found it takes a lot more work to make major changes happen. Before I could change a few things here and there and the ride would be totally different. This one I make changes much more extreme to notice anything major. Never would I put huge positive toe, but I already had to twice now just to get the car to stop oversteering. Doesn't really matter since it just numbers, but seems to be more real where major changes make major things happen lol.

One thing I HATE is the transmission settings seem to be glitched. Everything else the sliders move pretty fast and easy, but transmission the one thing that has a million sliders barely moves. I have to keep pressing left or right rather then just hold and even then when I do that it still sometimes doesn't register. Hopefully they fix that one quick since transmission changes always made a huge difference before and I imagine even more so now.
 
Z06, have you tested whether the physics and tunes are the same offline and online? I'm psyched they finally got the tuning and balance correct!
 
shmogt
I found it takes a lot more work to make major changes happen. Before I could change a few things here and there and the ride would be totally different. This one I make changes much more extreme to notice anything major. Never would I put huge positive toe, but I already had to twice now just to get the car to stop oversteering. Doesn't really matter since it just numbers, but seems to be more real where major changes make major things happen lol.

One thing I HATE is the transmission settings seem to be glitched. Everything else the sliders move pretty fast and easy, but transmission the one thing that has a million sliders barely moves. I have to keep pressing left or right rather then just hold and even then when I do that it still sometimes doesn't register. Hopefully they fix that one quick since transmission changes always made a huge difference before and I imagine even more so now.
Click to expand...
Your using a D pad on a wheel? It's not too slow at all with a controller (got 2 stage buttons on D pad right?)
 
f_399
wish they gave tq and hp peak numbers, unless i need to click something to find it

example 900hp@6000rpm; 1000tq@4000 rpm
Click to expand...

you have to go into your garage and view the car to see peak hp/tq numbers and which RPM they occur at.

I agree, another shortcoming. It should be (and was) on the tuning screen before. Now we just get xxx HP, xxx torque.. no mention of @ what RPM
 
esoxhntr
you have to go into your garage and view the car to see peak hp/tq numbers and which RPM they occur at.

I agree, another shortcoming.
Click to expand...

Yeah they should put it on the tuning sheet, the area where you will need it the most

While they are at it, put a function to copy sheets.
 
Hey guys you all know me. I have spent about 10hrs tuning and here is what I have figured out. general tune to get your car around the track ONLINE with out spinning out. First the springs rates work different in GT6 than GT5.. A softer front and stiffer rear will make it oversteer.. A stiffer front spring than rear will tighten the car up. Adding camber to either the front or rear will loosen or tighten it up. For max grip I have been running no camber in front or rear. But testing if I add camber in the front it pushes. If I add camber in the rear it loosens the car up. I have been using both roll bars on 7 believe it or not. But they work like springs smaller bar in the front than rear oversteer. Smaller bar in the rear than front understeer. But a difference of 1 or two clicks in front or rear makes the car do funky things. front toe I havent played with much yet and anything under 80 for ride height front and rear my cars dont like. But I do have +2 bigger wheels than stock and they could be hitting the inside of the finder. I have been tuning with a CSL so its a easy car to get an idea of what each thing does. Dampers I havent got play with either. I wanted to make sure before I spoke that what I was saying was what is going on in the game. So here is the tune or close to general idea I start out with every car to get it to go around the track decent. This has been all online as offline seems different like it did at first in GT5.

springs= 11.5/7.5
Ride height= 80/80
dampers comp 4/4
dampers ext 4/4
roll bars 7/7
camber= 0.0/0.0
toe= 0.0/0.0 or up to 0.20 ( to help tighten up car )
LSD= 10/15/10

Set just about any car up like this or with this idea in mind and you should be close enough to fine tune from there. Every persons spring rate and and ride height and roll bars will change a little but just TRY setting roll bars at max stiff set you front springs about 3 numbers more than your rear springs and so on and go drive the car online and see if its not at least driving ok... So CSLACR if you want your car to rotate more without using rear toe get the rear spring same as or more than the front. ADD rear camber try 4.0 the car will almost spin out going straight lol.. Or use a little bigger rear roll bar than the front and keep font camber at 0.0.. This has been done all online and its just to get you close. Im sure it can be tweeked and worked and with all the updates to come will change. But with these general settings you should be able to do more than a lap with out spinning out and enjoy the cars some.. Let me know what you experts find out..... Ohh this has been done with STREET cars only no aero.. Cant go online now as Playstation network is down but give it a try. it was done with all aids turned off except ABS..
 
f_399
Yeah they should put it on the tuning sheet, the area where you will need it the most

While they are at it, put a function to copy sheets.
Click to expand...

...and reset settings, add the theoretical top speed to the custom transmission, speed in each gear would be REAL nice but that's a wishlist. fix they stuff they had in gt5 back in first.
 
MrGrado
Your using a D pad on a wheel? It's not too slow at all with a controller (got 2 stage buttons on D pad right?)
Click to expand...

What is stage 2 buttons? For me it's like less then turtle slow. I tried the joystick and actual left and right buttons but both barely do anything. They work great for everything else however.
 
shmogt
What is stage 2 buttons? For me it's like less then turtle slow. I tried the joystick and actual left and right buttons but both barely do anything. They work great for everything else however.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem with a DS3, but only when I'm tuning in a test run or race menu. I can go to tuning from the garage or start menu and it works just fine.
 
jtqmopar
I have the same problem with a DS3, but only when I'm tuning in a test run or race menu. I can go to tuning from the garage or start menu and it works just fine.
Click to expand...
That is weird and hopefully they fix this soon since it's annoying. Also where do you guys test tunes? I saw arcade mode but is there a practise mode somewhere I am missing?
 
Tazz69
Hey guys you all know me. I have spent about 10hrs tuning and here is what I have figured out. general tune to get your car around the track ONLINE with out spinning out. First the springs rates work different in GT6 than GT5.. A softer front and stiffer rear will make it oversteer.. A stiffer front spring than rear will tighten the car up. Adding camber to either the front or rear will loosen or tighten it up. For max grip I have been running no camber in front or rear. But testing if I add camber in the front it pushes. If I add camber in the rear it loosens the car up. I have been using both roll bars on 7 believe it or not. But they work like springs smaller bar in the front than rear oversteer. Smaller bar in the rear than front understeer. But a difference of 1 or two clicks in front or rear makes the car do funky things. front toe I havent played with much yet and anything under 80 for ride height front and rear my cars dont like. But I do have +2 bigger wheels than stock and they could be hitting the inside of the finder. I have been tuning with a CSL so its a easy car to get an idea of what each thing does. Dampers I havent got play with either. I wanted to make sure before I spoke that what I was saying was what is going on in the game. So here is the tune or close to general idea I start out with every car to get it to go around the track decent. This has been all online as offline seems different like it did at first in GT5.

springs= 11.5/7.5
Ride height= 80/80
dampers comp 4/4
dampers ext 4/4
roll bars 7/7
camber= 0.0/0.0
toe= 0.0/0.0 or up to 0.20 ( to help tighten up car )
LSD= 10/15/10

Set just about any car up like this or with this idea in mind and you should be close enough to fine tune from there. Every persons spring rate and and ride height and roll bars will change a little but just TRY setting roll bars at max stiff set you front springs about 3 numbers more than your rear springs and so on and go drive the car online and see if its not at least driving ok... So CSLACR if you want your car to rotate more without using rear toe get the rear spring same as or more than the front. ADD rear camber try 4.0 the car will almost spin out going straight lol.. Or use a little bigger rear roll bar than the front and keep font camber at 0.0.. This has been done all online and its just to get you close. Im sure it can be tweeked and worked and with all the updates to come will change. But with these general settings you should be able to do more than a lap with out spinning out and enjoy the cars some.. Let me know what you experts find out..... Ohh this has been done with STREET cars only no aero.. Cant go online now as Playstation network is down but give it a try. it was done with all aids turned off except ABS..
Click to expand...

no negative camber? that's totally unrealistic...
adding more negative camber is supposed to give you more grip on the turns. what's going on here?
 
shmogt
That is weird and hopefully they fix this soon since it's annoying. Also where do you guys test tunes? I saw arcade mode but is there a practise mode somewhere I am missing?
Click to expand...

Go to your garage and use the "Test Car" feature in the car info menu
 
shmogt
That is weird and hopefully they fix this soon since it's annoying. Also where do you guys test tunes? I saw arcade mode but is there a practise mode somewhere I am missing?
Click to expand...

Go in single player and click time trial, that's the new practice mode lol.
 
I have found out hat using different tire compounds helps a lot for under/oversteer. It was not that way in GT5 or at least not as good. Also the different rim sizes play a part in tuning now. I figured they would. I just wish you could change the front and rear size independent from each other.
As for the compound going say a SS on the front and a SM on the rear will help correct a car that that has natural understeer. This of course can be achieved with the suspension but the tests I have done are with a non tunable suspension.
 
What affect does going +1 or +2 larger than stock wheels have on the car. This is something I posted about and havent tried yet. I put +2 on my cars just because but havent had a chance to compare times with them on aginst stock wheel size???
 
Tazz69
What affect does going +1 or +2 larger than stock wheels have on the car. This is something I posted about and havent tried yet. I put +2 on my cars just because but havent had a chance to compare times with them on aginst stock wheel size???
Click to expand...
In theory larger rims give you a little more top speed but at the cost of acceleration. They also tent to allow your car better turning speed.Increasing rim size gives you a low profile tire which have stiffer sidewalls and so they keep the tire tread pressed flat against the road which in turn improves handling.
Again this is all based on theory. I took the Delta and mismatched the tire compound and added bigger rims. This alone changed the severe understeer to a nice oversteer along with adjusting the brake bias to more rear oriented.
 
Im sorry outspoken I wasnt very clear. I know what a larger wheel and smaller sidewall tire do real life I was just wanting to know if anyone has any in game comparison between stock wheels and larger wheels to see if the lap times changed any..
 
I agree the tuning seems improved. I still can't seem to get a FWD car to become unstable though. I'll max out the rear stiffness, run a soft-ish front, a little camber in the front, none in the rear, lots of rear toe-out, 90mm ride height in the front, 120 in the rear, and even if I lift mid-corner, it still plows through the corner. Oh well, more testing but I'd say its improved. Just not getting FWD results I expected.
 
Tazz69
Hey guys you all know me. I have spent about 10hrs tuning and here is what I have figured out. general tune to get your car around the track ONLINE with out spinning out. First the springs rates work different in GT6 than GT5.. A softer front and stiffer rear will make it oversteer.. A stiffer front spring than rear will tighten the car up. Adding camber to either the front or rear will loosen or tighten it up. For max grip I have been running no camber in front or rear. But testing if I add camber in the front it pushes. If I add camber in the rear it loosens the car up. I have been using both roll bars on 7 believe it or not. But they work like springs smaller bar in the front than rear oversteer. Smaller bar in the rear than front understeer. But a difference of 1 or two clicks in front or rear makes the car do funky things. front toe I havent played with much yet and anything under 80 for ride height front and rear my cars dont like. But I do have +2 bigger wheels than stock and they could be hitting the inside of the finder. I have been tuning with a CSL so its a easy car to get an idea of what each thing does. Dampers I havent got play with either. I wanted to make sure before I spoke that what I was saying was what is going on in the game. So here is the tune or close to general idea I start out with every car to get it to go around the track decent. This has been all online as offline seems different like it did at first in GT5.

springs= 11.5/7.5
Ride height= 80/80
dampers comp 4/4
dampers ext 4/4
roll bars 7/7
camber= 0.0/0.0
toe= 0.0/0.0 or up to 0.20 ( to help tighten up car )
LSD= 10/15/10

Set just about any car up like this or with this idea in mind and you should be close enough to fine tune from there. Every persons spring rate and and ride height and roll bars will change a little but just TRY setting roll bars at max stiff set you front springs about 3 numbers more than your rear springs and so on and go drive the car online and see if its not at least driving ok... So CSLACR if you want your car to rotate more without using rear toe get the rear spring same as or more than the front. ADD rear camber try 4.0 the car will almost spin out going straight lol.. Or use a little bigger rear roll bar than the front and keep font camber at 0.0.. This has been done all online and its just to get you close. Im sure it can be tweeked and worked and with all the updates to come will change. But with these general settings you should be able to do more than a lap with out spinning out and enjoy the cars some.. Let me know what you experts find out..... Ohh this has been done with STREET cars only no aero.. Cant go online now as Playstation network is down but give it a try. it was done with all aids turned off except ABS..
Click to expand...

What tires have you been tuning with? I'm trying to run sports hard on street cars and even a 450 pp rx-7 gets crazy oversteer. I've been using GT5 tuning tho, about to try your template and see what i think.
 
Tazz69
Hey guys you all know me. I have spent about 10hrs tuning and here is what I have figured out. general tune to get your car around the track ONLINE with out spinning out. First the springs rates work different in GT6 than GT5.. A softer front and stiffer rear will make it oversteer.. A stiffer front spring than rear will tighten the car up. Adding camber to either the front or rear will loosen or tighten it up. For max grip I have been running no camber in front or rear. But testing if I add camber in the front it pushes. If I add camber in the rear it loosens the car up. I have been using both roll bars on 7 believe it or not. But they work like springs smaller bar in the front than rear oversteer. Smaller bar in the rear than front understeer. But a difference of 1 or two clicks in front or rear makes the car do funky things. front toe I havent played with much yet and anything under 80 for ride height front and rear my cars dont like. But I do have +2 bigger wheels than stock and they could be hitting the inside of the finder. I have been tuning with a CSL so its a easy car to get an idea of what each thing does. Dampers I havent got play with either. I wanted to make sure before I spoke that what I was saying was what is going on in the game. So here is the tune or close to general idea I start out with every car to get it to go around the track decent. This has been all online as offline seems different like it did at first in GT5.

springs= 11.5/7.5
Ride height= 80/80
dampers comp 4/4
dampers ext 4/4
roll bars 7/7
camber= 0.0/0.0
toe= 0.0/0.0 or up to 0.20 ( to help tighten up car )
LSD= 10/15/10

Set just about any car up like this or with this idea in mind and you should be close enough to fine tune from there. Every persons spring rate and and ride height and roll bars will change a little but just TRY setting roll bars at max stiff set you front springs about 3 numbers more than your rear springs and so on and go drive the car online and see if its not at least driving ok... So CSLACR if you want your car to rotate more without using rear toe get the rear spring same as or more than the front. ADD rear camber try 4.0 the car will almost spin out going straight lol.. Or use a little bigger rear roll bar than the front and keep font camber at 0.0.. This has been done all online and its just to get you close. Im sure it can be tweeked and worked and with all the updates to come will change. But with these general settings you should be able to do more than a lap with out spinning out and enjoy the cars some.. Let me know what you experts find out..... Ohh this has been done with STREET cars only no aero.. Cant go online now as Playstation network is down but give it a try. it was done with all aids turned off except ABS..
Click to expand...
Yes when i first bought my GTR-07 I looked at the suspension setup that was stock,I said there is no way this will work,they had ride height like at 70/90 roll bars at 1,I flipped car twice,i said ok this is notlike gt5,thanks so much for the tuning guide bro,reallya ppreciate it :D
 
Idsob yea run the rear springs at least 3 complete numbers less than the front springs. Start with NO camber.. Especially in the rear. You guys will see later that rear camber makes the rear real loose. Keep the ride height at 80 or above and dampers start with all at 4 till you can make it around the track lol.. Rear toe still helps tighten the car up and lower rear than front ride height will too but I would use that as last resort. Biggest thing is springs run a much softer rear spring than front and a lsd of 10/15/10.. Also start with roll bars both at 6 or 7.. Once the car is nice and tight it is so much easier to back off things and loosen it up... As for the FWD cars besides soft front stiff rear spring use no front camber and add say 4.0 or 5.0 rear camber and see what happens. I know its not real life but add a lot of rear camber to the rear and watch how loose the car starts getting. FWD are always going to push a little but 4/7 roll bar much larger rear spring than front and 4.0 to 5.0 rear camber should loosen it up some.. NO front camber as when I add front camber so far the cars just push.. Although on my R8 4.2 I have 4.0 camber in the front and 0.0 in rear cause I could not get it to stop spinning out even with springs until I added that front camber. let me know what you guys find out trying some if not all of these ideas on your car... only cars so far that jave rear caber is my Civic lol..
 

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