- 706
I gotta say this car is one helluva beast, and I like it, except for one thing, its wheels just keep screeching, even when stock, it seems to me this car is overpowered or something, so how could I stop that annoying burning tire sound?
TVR Cerbera Speed 12
- Thread starter Pierced Lead
- 53 comments
- 5,515 views
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Don't give it as much throttle. It's all you CAN do.
- 754
- Madison, WI
There are several things you can do. I refuse to use traction control or stability control on my cars, so that limits the useability somewhat for me.
As far as settings go...
Softer rear springs
Softer rear shocks
Softer rear sways
Taller gearing and a low, low final drive. Widen the gears out basically as much as you can.
Keep it at stock power, it does NOT need any more
Use NO camber or toe at the rear wheels
As far as driving goes...
Always be a gear higher than you think you need to be; never use first and almost never use second. The engine has incredible torque and can pull out of corners from as low as 1500 rpm. Short shift until you get to 4th gear for smooth tracks and 5th gear for bumpier tracks. You can also try using the analog stick for throttle, this way you can give it as much or as little gas as you want. It gives you much finer control than the X button. To really properly drive this car you'll need a wheel. Logitech DFP's are getting cheap these days.
As far as settings go...
Softer rear springs
Softer rear shocks
Softer rear sways
Taller gearing and a low, low final drive. Widen the gears out basically as much as you can.
Keep it at stock power, it does NOT need any more
Use NO camber or toe at the rear wheels
As far as driving goes...
Always be a gear higher than you think you need to be; never use first and almost never use second. The engine has incredible torque and can pull out of corners from as low as 1500 rpm. Short shift until you get to 4th gear for smooth tracks and 5th gear for bumpier tracks. You can also try using the analog stick for throttle, this way you can give it as much or as little gas as you want. It gives you much finer control than the X button. To really properly drive this car you'll need a wheel. Logitech DFP's are getting cheap these days.
- 706
Thats the bad part, I couldn't find a Steering Wheel at an affordable price in my area and I am just so used to the X button, but I'll try those settings and see if they work, thanks
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
slowman, all that will really do is compound the issue because while the wheelspin will still be there (perhaps to a lesser extent), understeer will become more prevalent unless the settings are so extreme that GT4's "all tires must be on ground unless disrupted by bumps/kerbing" physics make the rear slide all over the place.
Further, based on Pierced Lead's description of the issue, it sounds like he is still using full driver aids. Which do very little here. Other than cover up the true handling of the car and hide how horrible the wheelspin really is.
Further, based on Pierced Lead's description of the issue, it sounds like he is still using full driver aids. Which do very little here. Other than cover up the true handling of the car and hide how horrible the wheelspin really is.
- 754
- Madison, WI
The settings I recommended are only going to help with the problem to a certain extent. They are not going to solve the problem of wheelspin fully; you simply can't.
In my opinion, this car is undriveable without a wheel. Since he doesn't have one or can't get one, I'm just recommending the best settings for the situation.
As far as being faster with the Speed 12 around the track, reducing the wheelspin as much as possible is key here. Handling is really secondary with this car, it's primary purpose is balls-to-the-wall power and acceleration. Even with the wheel I drive it as such, just coasting around the corners so I can get back on the power for the next straight. This is the key to fast lap times with this beast.
In my opinion, this car is undriveable without a wheel. Since he doesn't have one or can't get one, I'm just recommending the best settings for the situation.
As far as being faster with the Speed 12 around the track, reducing the wheelspin as much as possible is key here. Handling is really secondary with this car, it's primary purpose is balls-to-the-wall power and acceleration. Even with the wheel I drive it as such, just coasting around the corners so I can get back on the power for the next straight. This is the key to fast lap times with this beast.
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Handling isn't all that bad with the Speed 12 so long as you can control the bloody throttle; being able to drive it around corners with around the same cornering speed as a more balanced vehicle and sacrificing maybe a small bit of the nutso acceleration will save MUCH more time on the majority of tracks.
You just can never go WOT under about 100mph on S3 tires.
You just can never go WOT under about 100mph on S3 tires.
- 754
- Madison, WI
This is what I'm saying. If you can get the tires to dig instead of spin upon corner exit, your going to makes up any amount time around corners. The thing accelerates like a cat with a firecracker in it's ass and that's the car's strong point. Its best to maximize that and take advantage of it as much as you can.
- 706
I am actually in love with it already 
I just think that if the wheelspin is cured it can be even better than any other production car out there.
I just think that if the wheelspin is cured it can be even better than any other production car out there.
- 90
Yeah as others have said, it has so much torque even at low RPM that it's better being in 3rd and gradually building up speed than spinning in 1st, then spinning in 2nd and 3rd and, well.. you get the idea. 
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
It's also worse if you decide to think "I'll boost it up". Fitting the supercharger results in nearly 1500Nm of torque, enough to fry the tyres up in any of the first five gears if you don't use the throttle correctly, let alone the 1100hp+ that will inevitably put you into most walls.
- 706
Is that what happens with this car in actual life as well?
- 6,694
- Dallas, TX
Mmm... I never noticed the screechin' noise from the tires. Maybe I was just tooooo sucked in
the race with this BAD ASS of a car?!
the race with this BAD ASS of a car?!
Leonidae
(Banned)
- 6,881
- GTP_Leonidae_MFT
the actual car never entered production, and even the GT1-class racing version was restricted to 750bhp and banned later.
- 90
So the road-going version in GT4 is essentially a concept car?
It was deemed unusable on the road because it was too powerful, it was originally made to race Le Mans.
Scaff
Moderator
- 29,732
- He/Him
- ScaffUK
Its rumoured that Peter Wheeler drove the car home one night and when he returned to Blackpool the next day said its was too much for the public road, however that is quite possibly that's a myth.
The reason behind it is that the true origin of the Speed 12 was not LeMans at all, but the British GT championship. Now the car should have been a production model to be entered, however no actual customer cars ever got delivered (some were rumoured but again nothing that can be proven), so the story about it being to much for the road and getting pulled from production at the last minute may well have been a way around the whole homologation issue for the British GT championship.
Evo magazine once did an excellent feature on the only remaining Speed 12 (built up from the one 'road car' and spares from the ex-race cars) that remains, its still in print in one of the Evo specials they do.
Like many things related to the Speed 12, its unlikely the whole truth will ever be know about it.
Regards
Scaff
- 1,274
- Chicagoland, IL USA
- oldmodelt
Thats the bad part, I couldn't find a Steering Wheel at an affordable price in my area and I am just so used to the X button, but I'll try those settings and see if they work, thanks
Slowman is correct. If you can't get a wheel, learn to use the right analog stick. Much more sensitive. Join a race and after a week it will be second nature.
mafia_boy
(Banned)
- 5,570
- GTP_Mafiaboy
Actually, the buttons are more sensitive IF you know how to do it right.
Get used to rolling your finger onto the button than mashing it, you'll learn how to get perfect throttle control and will never need the analog stick again. 
PF can attest to this, he's witnessed the difference using the X button for the accelerator can make for some drivers. 👍 But in the end, it's more a case of doing what you're comfortable with.
- 754
- Madison, WI
And personally, I agree you with mafia_boy. I've never gotten used to the feel of the analog stick and I always just used the buttons until I got a wheel. I was simply suggesting that as an option to him.
Learn how to quick-tap and/or roll on carefully and the X button is sufficient to play the game to about 95% of the capability of a wheel.
Learn how to quick-tap and/or roll on carefully and the X button is sufficient to play the game to about 95% of the capability of a wheel.
- 2,063
On the subject of the Speed 12, British GT version, it most certainly did race. I know from personal observation.
I felt my lungs shake when the thing roared down to the chicane at Oulton Park. It ever so nearly won except for the fact that some fragile little Ferrari had an enormous off (nearly taking out the Lister Sorm and the GTSR Viper if I remember right) and resulted in too many laps behind a slo-mo safety car ... poor Speed 12 just overheated
.
For a practical tune of the Speed 12, take a look at the one in ETZ:
Speed 12 - Nurburgring
I felt my lungs shake when the thing roared down to the chicane at Oulton Park. It ever so nearly won except for the fact that some fragile little Ferrari had an enormous off (nearly taking out the Lister Sorm and the GTSR Viper if I remember right) and resulted in too many laps behind a slo-mo safety car ... poor Speed 12 just overheated
.For a practical tune of the Speed 12, take a look at the one in ETZ:
Speed 12 - Nurburgring
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