Ways to make your car faster without increasing the insurance.

[Sage Ages]

The money I have seen people (in my eyes) waste on low powered cars, could have bought them an Impreza or somthing fast 'ish to begin with and still have left over change to insure it.
Just a thought.

Power =/= handling, weight, practicability, nostalgia, sentimental value, etc.

 

[Danoff]

In order:

Training
Training
Training
Training
Tires
Lightness

That's a fair order for a 17 year old.

 

[Conbon14]

My dad put a k and n filter in his factory airbox and it made it sound a bit better. Apparently throttle response was a tad quicker also. But if you were going to do this i would ask the insurance company first just in case. 👍

 

[Famine]

I'm a 17 year old boy so my insurance for my Renault Clio Mk3 is nearly unaffordable as you can probably imagine.

I was just wondering what ways there were if any to make my car faster without increasing the insurance, I think I heard once that if a part counts as a service item it wont increase it?

So, some misconceptions first.

Technically any like-for-like replacement service part is not insurance declarable - anything that is standard fitment. You're looking for the abbreviation "OE" (Original Equipment) or "OEM" (Original Equipment Manufacturer).

This means you can slap in a panel filter made by a recognised panel filter brand (even K&N, if you so desire) in place of the standard one, no bother. This applies to fuel filters, oil filters, spark plugs, plug leads, brake discs (of standard dimensions), brake pads (of standard dimensions), fluids (like petrol and semi-synth oils), tyres (so long as they're standard sizes) - basically anything that would be checked and replaced as part of a standard manufacturer vehicle service. All you're doing is paying for higher-quality direct replacements.

Anything else has to be declared. This includes exhausts, wheels, cone filters, ECU remaps, suspension, anything above that's a different size to standard and any engine work.

With this in mind, let's quote a post. Everything in red is something you need to declare to your insurance and, as a 17 year old, will lead to a very dry BOHICA from your insurers:

Remove unnecessary parts ( audio, AC, seats ), buy lighter wheels, get better shocks + increase body rigidity with sway bars, fit stickier tires, upgrade ECU, intake ( air filter ) and exhaust, spark plugs, ignition coil packs, put higher duration cams, use higher octane fuel - preferably RON 100 , it it's manual, fit lighter flywheel, stronger clutch.

And higher octane fuel will not help you - there's a myth that more octane = more power, but it's flat wrong. In many cases, more octane = less power... The higher the octane number, the more stable the fuel is - the more it resists autoignition (the fuel burning on its own because of the high temperature). This means that unless your car can bang it a bit harder, you'll get less bang from higher octane fuels - it doesn't bang when it's supposed to and it doesn't bang fully.

For power you should always run the lowest octane rating you can get that doesn't cause autoignition. Too low and it bangs too early, so you don't get power and you damage your valves. In this case your manufacturer knows best, but a good rule of thumb is that if your engine has a high relative compression ratio (over 11:1) or any forced induction, you should look at more stable fuels. Your Clio is 9.8:1. It won't help.


So, from that list you've got spark plugs and tyres that will increase your performance and not attract the ire of the insurers. A like-for-like replacement panel filter will be fine too. Like-for-like brake disc and pad replacements also, though they will enhance only your stop, not your go - and the Clio is actually already one of the better decelerating cars from 100-0mph anyway.

But the upshot is that you're 17 and have a Clio. If you're looking for significant power gains, there's nothing you can do that won't hit you in your insurance premiums.

This is because you're about 4 times more likely to interact with the scenery than any other group except over 80s. It sucks, but that's how it is - almost everyone who starts driving at 17 will have put it into something by the time they've got 3 years' driving behind them (sometimes simply from other people putting it into you because you're not experienced enough to recognise it coming - not your fault like, but with that experience comes the ability to spot someone about to be a dick). Your premiums reflect this and everything you tinker with becomes a multiplier. Of course when you reach my age and you have a 75% no claims bonus, the multiplier doesn't matter so much.


There's no harm in getting some Toyos when you need new tyres and some NGK Iridium plugs at your next interim service, but otherwise save your money and get experience. Then buy something faster. In the meantime, enjoy your Clio - they stop quite well and they're not bad fun.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Mmm, so does removing car stereo will increase insurance premium ? :/ Reducing body roll ( which is good in terms of stability )by installing sway bars also increase insurance ? What about heavy duty clutch that last longer and more durable ? I mentioned higher octane fuel with combination of other upgrades - ECU remap ( advanced ignition timing ), air filter, spark plugs, ignition coils, better engine oil - something like Castrol Formula R or Royal Purple.

 

[Famine]

Mmm, so does removing car stereo will increase insurance premium ?

Yes

Reducing body roll ( which is good in terms of stability )by installing sway bars also increase insurance ?

Yes

What about heavy duty clutch that last longer and more durable ?

Yes

I mentioned higher octane fuel with combination of other upgrades - ECU remap ( advanced ignition timing ), air filter, spark plugs, ignition coils, better engine oil - something like Castrol Formula R or Royal Purple.

ECU remap, non-standard air filter and coil pack upgrade all increase insurance.

If declared. If they aren't that's insurance fraud and you're effectively driving without any insurance at all.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

YesYesYesECU remap, non-standard air filter and coil pack upgrade all increase insurance.

If declared. If they aren't that's insurance fraud and you're effectively driving without any insurance at all.

Learn something new, removing stereo increase insurance ... that's really new to me ... considering there's less value in the car without stereo installed ( no head unit, no amp, no speakers ) I guess removing rear seats also does the same thing :/ Must be tough to have a car in UK

Exedy sells OEM replacement heavy duty clutch plate, I guess this will also increase insurance

 

[Famine]

Any change to the car's specification from how it was supplied as standard changes insurance - almost always upwards. In theory even changing the tyres from the brand supplied can, but in practice the insurers don't want to know about that (largely because it's impractical to expect tyre manufacturers to make the same brand in perpetuity).

 

[Jay.]

Best advice...

Go with Famine. The guy who knows. ^^

 

[Kitten]

Putting a K&N Filter on your car wont make it any quicker, nothing that you'd be able to feel anyway. And if you want to do serious modding bear this in mind.... The money I have seen people (in my eyes) waste on low powered cars, could have bought them an Impreza or somthing fast 'ish to begin with and still have left over change to insure it.
Just a thought.

Yes I know, but it does make the Engine Bay Cleaner. Imo.

 

[Adamgp]

Add some speed holes:

 

[MatskiMonk]

Specialist insurers might be an option, Flux seem pretty reasonable with some of their policies.

They quoted me half (about £330) to insure a modified Corrado VR6, than Admiral charge for a Y Reg BMW 320d Estate (£680).

I'm 34, been driving since 17, never made a claim, and (relatively) clean license.

 

[Crash]

Mmm, so does removing car stereo will increase insurance premium ? :/ Reducing body roll ( which is good in terms of stability )by installing sway bars also increase insurance ? What about heavy duty clutch that last longer and more durable ? I mentioned higher octane fuel with combination of other upgrades - ECU remap ( advanced ignition timing ), air filter, spark plugs, ignition coils, better engine oil - something like Castrol Formula R or Royal Purple.

Rather than increasing insurance cost, a better way to put it is it will impact insurance. Removing a radio may lower it, but it will likely impact it.

Either way, doesn't change that you must still declare that in the UK.

 

[Jay.]

TBH... there really isn't much point in trying too hard if you can't afford higher insurance rates.
No offence intended but you're only 17, inexperienced but want to drive faster.
Three things that often cause problems when put together, and are likely to get you points on your license or a damaged car, or both. Either way your insurance will then go up.

My advice...
Wait a few years, drive safely and build some no-claims bonus & gain a bit more experience. This will also give you a little time to save up for a car worth modifying.

 

[hawkeye122]

I posed a thread about a year ago...

The upshot is my rather inexperienced friend had a bit of lift-off oversteer and sailed his 520HP Subaru STi off a cliff with me and another friend in it. If you look at the pictures of the car afterwords, all 3 of us are lucky to be alive AND uninjured.
My friends have fast cars. But of those who have fast cars, they either do track days, have done Skip Barber school, or Autocross.

From a safety standpoint, I'd suggest getting some more seat time in your car before breaking out the upgrades. Autocross is relatively inexpensive, and low-risk with regards to damaging your vehicle. Do that. Learn some more car control.

 

[speed junkie]

Just out of curiosity, how do insurance companies find out what modifications you've made to the car? I mean, how could they possibly find out that you have a lighter flywheel and better break pads? And it doesn't make sense to me how things like better brake pads, some stainless steel braided brake lines, and sway bars would increase the cost of insurance. If anything they improve the cars stability and safety.

 

[daan]

Just out of curiosity, how do insurance companies find out what modifications you've made to the car?

After a crash, when it is being repaired by the insurers approved garage. They'll be looking for undeclared modifications, and if they find any, they won't pay out.

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

And it doesn't make sense to me how things like better brake pads, some stainless steel braided brake lines, and sway bars would increase the cost of insurance. If anything they improve the cars stability and safety.

Because somebody who makes modifications to his/her car is immediately singled out as someone who is more likely to drive it in a more spirited manner (even if just on occasion).

 

[Gdog96]

Thank you so much for all the replies. I will do what Famine and others said, wait and get experienced whilst earning some money and buy a better car down the line.

Thanks! 👍

 

[MrWednesday]

And higher octane fuel will not help you - there's a myth that more octane = more power, but it's flat wrong. In many cases, more octane = less power... The higher the octane number, the more stable the fuel is - the more it resists autoignition (the fuel burning on its own because of the high temperature). This means that unless your car can bang it a bit harder, you'll get less bang from higher octane fuels - it doesn't bang when it's supposed to and it doesn't bang fully.

For power you should always run the lowest octane rating you can get that doesn't cause autoignition. Too low and it bangs too early, so you don't get power and you damage your valves. In this case your manufacturer knows best, but a good rule of thumb is that if your engine has a high relative compression ratio (over 11:1) or any forced induction, you should look at more stable fuels. Your Clio is 9.8:1. It won't help.

Octane vs. performance is a little tricky, mainly revolving around what happens when your car wants to knock at the lower octane fuel. Maybe your car has a good knock sensor and can pull timing (or other tricks, e.g. adding fuel) to keep it from knocking---in that case, you should use the higher octane because it will either help your power (in the case that the ECU pulled timing or e.g. in a boosted car pulled boost) or help your fuel economy (in the case where it added fuel). Maybe it doesn't, in which case you might get some pinging, or some near-pinging that you don't register. In that case, higher octane fuel isn't going to help performance, it's going to help keep your engine alive (and valve aren't the only thing you need to worry about getting damaged by pinging, it can damage pistons as well).

So while it's true that adding octane does nothing for you for performance in the case where the engine is not designed for it, it's not true that it never does anything for you.

Long story short, I would always run with exactly the fuel specified by the owner's manual. The consequences of knocking are not worth messing around with.

As noted, in this case, a 9.8:1 engine is going to run fine on the lowest grade fuel. You only need higher octane with forced induction or higher compression ratios (or, in extreme cases, maybe with very aggressive modifications to timing).

 

[Famine]

So while it's true that adding octane does nothing for you for performance in the case where the engine is not designed for it, it's not true that it never does anything for you.

The "you" in the first part of my post was Gdog96 (or, more specifically, Gdog96's Clio), not a generic "you".

From that point on it seems we're in agreement.