What have you done to your car today?

My damn car died in traffic today. I had it on a flatdeck for the second time in three weeks, and I've diagnosed a dead ECU.

It's currently sitting on my desk, being useless. Perhaps a cool paperweight?

I'm going to borrow another ECU to plug in to the car and confirm, but I'm already pretty sure - It's exhibited all the symptoms of a malfunctioning ECU.

The good news? It may be salvageable. There are three capacitors that are known to go bad, so as long as they haven't damaged the board underneath of them, I can remove and replace them and theoretically be back on the road.
 
Nothing is safe on a DSM, it seems.

I removed the driver's side fender, wheel well guard, bumper, fog lights, and pulled some wiring. Going through the process of cleaning it all up and tucking all the lighting wiring so its cleaning and easier to work with when I need to change bulbs. Some stuff is just a mess of electrical tape and twisted wire, but at least it is mostly color coded.
 
got the firebird back from the garage woo! working a treat, for the moment, got some new exhaust manifold gaskets too, both on it had blown so shall have fun getting in awkward positions putting the things on. really urging to drive the thing, furthest iv been is on and off the trailer and up the drive!
 
My damn car died in traffic today. I had it on a flatdeck for the second time in three weeks, and I've diagnosed a dead ECU.

It's currently sitting on my desk, being useless. Perhaps a cool paperweight?

I'm going to borrow another ECU to plug in to the car and confirm, but I'm already pretty sure - It's exhibited all the symptoms of a malfunctioning ECU.

The good news? It may be salvageable. There are three capacitors that are known to go bad, so as long as they haven't damaged the board underneath of them, I can remove and replace them and theoretically be back on the road.
DIY ECU fix? That's man ****. I'd just give Craigslist a call and buy another one.

Nothing is safe on a DSM, it seems.

I removed the driver's side fender, wheel well guard, bumper, fog lights, and pulled some wiring. Going through the process of cleaning it all up and tucking all the lighting wiring so its cleaning and easier to work with when I need to change bulbs. Some stuff is just a mess of electrical tape and twisted wire, but at least it is mostly color coded.
While you're taking it all apart you might as well fix all those taped connections properly so you never have to deal with it again. Get rid of the old ricer jobs that are probably hidden all over that car.
 
Today I destroyed the wheels on my Z. Hooray.

A corner by my apartment I take ALL THE TIME. For whatever reason, my perception was way off. I was trying to avoid the potholes in the middle of the road in the process hit the curb. There goes getting a good sum for it if I wanted to trade up to the 370.
 
DIY ECU fix? That's man ****. I'd just give Craigslist a call and buy another one.


While you're taking it all apart you might as well fix all those taped connections properly so you never have to deal with it again. Get rid of the old ricer jobs that are probably hidden all over that car.

Yeah, working on that. Just finished the fogs up and its all removal without using wire cutters now. Make replacing bulbs further down the road a lot easier.
 
Curious to see how that looks.

I also moved the front plate a bit and changed the mounting setup for it, so it doesn't have to be bent to actually sit on the car. Looks a lot better.

Debating on painting the fog light covers primer black, or leaving them the weird lined gray/white look. Thoughts?
 
Satin black, FTW.

Borrowed a spare ECU for the Talon today, so that I can test and confirm that mine's buggered. It was dark by the time I got home, so it can wait until tomorrow.
I think I'm going to go buy another ECU, and use it until I get the chance to fix mine. Then, I'll sell one of the two - I know of a couple people who'd buy a spare.

That said, I'm back in the G until my car's going again, so I won't complain too hard. I find it slightly humourous that a 306 hp, heavy-ass coupe gets better mileage than my car.
 
Debating on painting the fog light covers primer black, or leaving them the weird lined gray/white look. Thoughts?
I've never like the design or the gray surround of EG fogs. Paint them black.
 
Almost forgot I had promised to post a pic of the painted grilles here.
They were fully chromed (bars included).

Not the best pic of the car, but it gives a general idea of how it looks now.
I know the left one is slightly crooked, that's because the bumper has a dent just below it. It was like that when I bought it last September, don't have the money to fix it.

0063.jpg


Yay or nay?



EDIT: The ACS thingy looked better with the chromed grilles, I might get rid of it now. Not sure yet.
 
I would've dechromed the bars but not the surround. Hm.

Looks okay I guess but I'm a sucker for chrome, especially on that color. In fact, what's the name of that color again?
 
I actually still have my OEM grilles (chromed surroundings and flat black bars), tried them on as well, but liked the 'new' look better. Also, the original grilles have the chromed in not-perfect condition so it loses the effect a bit.

This color is Sienna Red II.
I think I'm still to take a picture of my car where it's captured as it really is. But that pics gets close enough for showing purposes.
 
The black grilles look good, but the chrome AC doesn't. Too blingy, like yeah, I've got AC and you don't.

If you leave the AC in the grille, they would look better with chrome rings around the outside. That way it would match the badge and lights better instead of being a dark void in the middle.
 
I fully agree, it looked great with the all-chrome grille, but now it stands out too much.

Here's a shot of the car with the chromed one (no ACS badge at the time).

206222.jpg


The dent is much more noticeable in this shot, guess I could remove it with photoshop...
 
I actually like it as it is. The AC badge would look lost amongst the chrome grill and surround but is a bit of bling when the rest is all matt.

And lets be fair, VW have been sticking badges on the front grille for a while now...
 
Almost forgot I had promised to post a pic of the painted grilles here.
They were fully chromed (bars included).

Not the best pic of the car, but it gives a general idea of how it looks now.
I know the left one is slightly crooked, that's because the bumper has a dent just below it. It was like that when I bought it last September, don't have the money to fix it.

0063.jpg


Yay or nay?



EDIT: The ACS thingy looked better with the chromed grilles, I might get rid of it now. Not sure yet.



Looks awesome. 👍 Ditch the AC Schnitzer badge though.
 
+1 unless you got some ACS equipment. Not saying you're a poser, just letting you know quite a few of the BMW community look down upon those with Dinan & ACS badges with no actual performance mods.
 
Plugged in the borrowed ECU today. Car is still nonop.

If I move down the yellow brick road of likely causes, my next stop would be the cam angle switch, as it gives many of the same symptoms as I've got.

I also bought a new battery. I just plunked it in the engine bay for the purposes of testing, and will put it in properly once the car is fixed.
 
Unlike other members of this forum, I'm not swimming in disposable income.

I am currently borrowing a G35 from my landlord/buddy, who also races in the same club as me.


My car's gone for well over two years without leaving me stranded, until this past month.
 
Unlike other members of this forum, I'm not swimming in disposable income.

I am currently borrowing a G35 from my landlord/buddy, who also races in the same club as me.
That was meant to be more of a joke, mate. :indiff:

My car's gone for well over two years without leaving me stranded, until this past month.
Well, you seem to be like most DSM owners who don't give up on the car, so best of luck on it. 👍
 
Sorry Rev. Been a little stressed lately.


I went and removed a Cam Angle Sensor from a friends' car this evening and put it into mine. She fired right up, and seems to run alright (Didn't take it for a drive, just sat in the driveway for a minute).

Took the borrowed CAS back out, cleaned it up, and will probably go reinstall it on his car Friday or Saturday.
The joys of modified cars: It took me about 20 minutes to get his out, and about 35 to get mine out simply due to the amount of extra crap my stock one has around it.
Also took the borrowed ECU back out, and will return it tomorrow.

Now I just have to find a used CAS to buy (as a new one will run a minimum of $350), and I'll be back in business.
 
Had to replace the distributor rotor and rewire the positive terminal of the fuel pump on our 911 today.

Used the car for business yesterday (about 150 mile roundtrip) while my company car (Chrysler Sebring) was in for its 25000 mile service. Went to collect it after work but as we tried to leave the Chrysler dealership the Porsche wouldn't start, the motor turned over, but wouldn't fire. A few mechanics had a look and we tested the sparkplug leads off the distributor to see if they were sparking. Alas not. Opening the distributor and the old worn rotor has finally given up, it's missing a large chunk of the carbon electrode close to the center.

The Chrysler guys were really good, it was 5:50PM and they shut at 6:00PM. They allowed us to store the car overnight as there wasn't time for me to grab a replacement part. On our way home I stopped at Kragen to purchase a temporary replacement for $5.99.
Went back to collect it this morning and fitted the new rotor, still doesn't start. :ouch:
Checked sparking again by removing a sparkplug lead and attaching a used sparkplug on the end. Sure enough the thing is firing properly now, it just doesn't seem to be getting any fuel through.
Chrysler guys came and took another look, one of them had a family member that ran an old 911 and was really helpful, suggesting the fuel pump was probably to blame. Checked the fuse was intact, but he then noticed the positive terminal wire insulation had become old (28 years!!! :lol:) and cracked, leading to it breaking down. Did a temporary fix on it there and once in place it fired up wonderfully well so I brought the car home. Once here I was able to strip, clean and tin the end of the new connection as well as using a fibreglass pencil to clean the fuse terminals.

Some pics:
Rotors, old & new.
dscn2238.jpg

Cleaned inside distibutor cap.
dscn2239.jpg

Engine bay with cap replaced.
dscn2240e.jpg


A quick question as I'm not tremendously mechanically minded.
There's clearly a difference in the makeup of the distributor rotors, so I'm wondering if the new one will make a difference?
What're the advantages of the carbonised electrode?
I'm sure the OEM Porsche Part will be considerably more than $5.99, but I don't want to risk several $1000s of engine for the sake of a cheap part, so I may wait until Monday and visit the Porsche breakers yard close to here to grab an "as new" rotor.
Any advice appreciated. :cheers:
 
I'm sure the OEM Porsche Part will be considerably more than $5.99, but I don't want to risk several $1000s of engine for the sake of a cheap part, so I may wait until Monday and visit the Porsche breakers yard close to here to grab an "as new" rotor.


I wouldn't worry, even if it is a cheap part (rotor button and cap) it will not damage your motor.
 
Seeing as how the car's immobile right now anyway, I took the battery out of the car to get paint on a few things.
-I cleaned the battery box,
-Prepped and painted the battery holddown (Had some paint missing and rust forming),
-Prepped and painted the battery platform (Again, missing paint leading to surface rust).

I also wandered down to the parts store & bought a fresh stud and nut for the Cam Angle Sensor mounting bracket, and some Mobil 10w30 that was on sale - The car's nearly due.
 
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