Had to replace the distributor rotor and rewire the positive terminal of the fuel pump on our 911 today.
Used the car for business yesterday (about 150 mile roundtrip) while my company car (Chrysler Sebring) was in for its 25000 mile service. Went to collect it after work but as we tried to leave the Chrysler dealership the Porsche wouldn't start, the motor turned over, but wouldn't fire. A few mechanics had a look and we tested the sparkplug leads off the distributor to see if they were sparking. Alas not. Opening the distributor and the old worn rotor has finally given up, it's missing a large chunk of the carbon electrode close to the center.
The Chrysler guys were really good, it was 5:50PM and they shut at 6:00PM. They allowed us to store the car overnight as there wasn't time for me to grab a replacement part. On our way home I stopped at Kragen to purchase a temporary replacement for $5.99.
Went back to collect it this morning and fitted the new rotor, still doesn't start.
Checked sparking again by removing a sparkplug lead and attaching a used sparkplug on the end. Sure enough the thing is firing properly now, it just doesn't seem to be getting any fuel through.
Chrysler guys came and took another look, one of them had a family member that ran an old 911 and was really helpful, suggesting the fuel pump was probably to blame. Checked the fuse was intact, but he then noticed the positive terminal wire insulation had become old (28 years!!!
) and cracked, leading to it breaking down. Did a temporary fix on it there and once in place it fired up wonderfully well so I brought the car home. Once here I was able to strip, clean and tin the end of the new connection as well as using a fibreglass pencil to clean the fuse terminals.
Some pics:
Rotors, old & new.
Cleaned inside distibutor cap.
Engine bay with cap replaced.
A quick question as I'm not tremendously mechanically minded.
There's clearly a difference in the makeup of the distributor rotors, so I'm wondering if the new one will make a difference?
What're the advantages of the carbonised electrode?
I'm sure the OEM Porsche Part will be considerably more than $5.99, but I don't want to risk several $1000s of engine for the sake of a cheap part, so I may wait until Monday and visit the Porsche breakers yard close to here to grab an "as new" rotor.
Any advice appreciated.