- 20
I can't seem to get a shelby cobra to grip the road, it keeps on sliding everywhere. Whoever knows how to get it to grip, please E-mail me.
Who can get a Shelby Cobra To Grip?
- Thread starter Speed Master
- 15 comments
- 5,376 views
- 6,977
- old-guy64
The Cobra is hard to drive well. It is even harder to drive quickly and well.
Set your springs to 8.0 and 10.0 (f/r, you can adjust them to your liking from there).
Ride Height as low as you can go without shooting sparks when you go over the rumble strips. (Also remember that even if you have 25 "clicks" difference in front and rear height that difference is only about an inch.)
I tend to set bound and rebound with a low bound and I double that number to get my rebound (ie bound of 4/ rebound of 8)
I've started setting my camber at 0.0 front and rear. I set toe at -0.5 front and -1.0 in the rear.
To make use of all that torque, buy the full race tranny. Set your final drive to 4.11 (at least). Then play with the "sports-wide" slider a bit. Set it so you cet the full use of all five gears in the longest straight of whatever track you are on.
Lastly, set your brakes at 16/12 front/rear.
Now address your technique. With this car you absolutely MUST brake earlier than you think you should. And every where possible you should use the entire width of the track. Turn from the outside to the inside of the track and get back on the gas gently at the apex. Then full on as you get to the exit of the turn.
Hope this helps some.
Set your springs to 8.0 and 10.0 (f/r, you can adjust them to your liking from there).
Ride Height as low as you can go without shooting sparks when you go over the rumble strips. (Also remember that even if you have 25 "clicks" difference in front and rear height that difference is only about an inch.)
I tend to set bound and rebound with a low bound and I double that number to get my rebound (ie bound of 4/ rebound of 8)
I've started setting my camber at 0.0 front and rear. I set toe at -0.5 front and -1.0 in the rear.
To make use of all that torque, buy the full race tranny. Set your final drive to 4.11 (at least). Then play with the "sports-wide" slider a bit. Set it so you cet the full use of all five gears in the longest straight of whatever track you are on.
Lastly, set your brakes at 16/12 front/rear.
Now address your technique. With this car you absolutely MUST brake earlier than you think you should. And every where possible you should use the entire width of the track. Turn from the outside to the inside of the track and get back on the gas gently at the apex. Then full on as you get to the exit of the turn.
Hope this helps some.
Total_turbo
(Banned)
- 208
how do u get the mclearn F1 in GT3..?
my fav emoticon
- 292
Try these out. And remember, this is no F1, So you can't make it handle like one. It wasn't designed to perform well, much over stock Hp. It was recomended to me to keep the Hp under 600, and It works wonders for the handling and lap times. Smooth is fast with this ride. and the brakes really suck in this thing, so find an earlier braking point.
Spring Rate 14.3 11.8
Ride Height 83 84
Shock Bound 4 6
Shock Rebound 4 7
Camber 2.5 1.0
Toe 0.0 0.5
Stabilizer 3 4
Brake Balance 24 14
Initial Torque 20
Accel 45
Decel 16
ASM 0
TCS 4
Hall ass dude. Can I say ass here? Oops, I said it again!
Spring Rate 14.3 11.8
Ride Height 83 84
Shock Bound 4 6
Shock Rebound 4 7
Camber 2.5 1.0
Toe 0.0 0.5
Stabilizer 3 4
Brake Balance 24 14
Initial Torque 20
Accel 45
Decel 16
ASM 0
TCS 4
Hall ass dude. Can I say ass here? Oops, I said it again!
Masterblaster
(Banned)
- 1,331
think tires
- 292
Hi All,
There is a McLaren F1 (Formula 1) in GT3. It is otherwise known as the F090/S (NTSC) or the Polyphony 002 (PAL).
You can only win the F090/S in the Grand Valley Induro, and the Super Speedway induro (NTSC Ver.) I'm not sure about the Polyphony 002 on the (PAL Ver.)
This is All unless you're talking about the McLaren Production Car F1 That a few were made and sold for about "1 Milloin Dollars! Muahahaha!!!" Everything was made of hand laid carbon fiber almost. Way cool. Man I ramble too much.
Peeeaaace!, Mojo
There is a McLaren F1 (Formula 1) in GT3. It is otherwise known as the F090/S (NTSC) or the Polyphony 002 (PAL).
You can only win the F090/S in the Grand Valley Induro, and the Super Speedway induro (NTSC Ver.) I'm not sure about the Polyphony 002 on the (PAL Ver.)
This is All unless you're talking about the McLaren Production Car F1 That a few were made and sold for about "1 Milloin Dollars! Muahahaha!!!" Everything was made of hand laid carbon fiber almost. Way cool. Man I ramble too much.
Peeeaaace!, Mojo
Masterblaster
(Banned)
- 1,331
Dunno bout that, I get the F1's in any race in the Endurance leagueOriginally posted by Mojo Rising
Hi All,
There is a McLaren F1 (Formula 1) in GT3. It is otherwise known as the F090/S (NTSC) or the Polyphony 002 (PAL).
You can only win the F090/S in the Grand Valley Induro, and the Super Speedway induro (NTSC Ver.) I'm not sure about the Polyphony 002 on the (PAL Ver.)
This is All unless you're talking about the McLaren Production Car F1 That a few were made and sold for about "1 Milloin Dollars! Muahahaha!!!" Everything was made of hand laid carbon fiber almost. Way cool. Man I ramble too much.
Peeeaaace!, Mojo
- 292
Yes that is true, you can get the F1,s in any of the enduro races, but the F090/S represents the 10cylinder 1990 McLaren F1 car, driven by Ayrton Senna and can only be won in those two races. It's my favorite F1 in the game. I believe all of the other F1's are Williams BMW cars.
This is an actual pic of the car, after Senna spun off the track during qualifying in the Japanese GP in 1990.
This is an actual pic of the car, after Senna spun off the track during qualifying in the Japanese GP in 1990.
Masterblaster
(Banned)
- 1,331
kewl
- 375
Kind of a good thread. I'm going to try to tame the snake to run the Seattle Enduro. It's got plenty of straight line speed with no mods to run with the competition but it's a little too skittery for me to run smooth and consistent enough laps for the enduro. It's definitely a crazy ride. A bit like Ice Racing a rwd car as it is. (asm-0/ tcs-1) I'll have to try out these settings. I'm thinking for Seattle it may have to run a little softer and higher to make it more controlable over the Yumps. Too much rebound now.
When I first won the Cobra, maybe a year and a half ago, I deemed it to wild to waste my time.
When I first won the Cobra, maybe a year and a half ago, I deemed it to wild to waste my time.
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- 10,551
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
I drove the Cobra in GT2...never got around to it in 3, tho. I think in GT2, you only get half the story...cuz it wasn't that bad to drive. I mean, yeah, you had to be careful...
I'll eventually drive one in 4, once i find a place where it can race competitively without overkill or underkill.
I'll eventually drive one in 4, once i find a place where it can race competitively without overkill or underkill.
- 375
Ok, so I've been testing with the Cobra some more at Seattle. I'm finding that I'll need a softer suspension than the above settings to handle the yumps, the curbs and the train tracks or whatever that rough spot is leading into the chicanes.
I still feel that I don't need to add any more power to the Snake. It'll outrun the Zonda in a straight line, in the Professional NA Race at Seattle. Ive been using that as my test race. It's still too squirrelly to run the clean laps I'll need to run the enduro. I did add Racing Brakes, Fully Adjustable Suspension, and an LSD. I'm using Slicks and can almost get 10 laps out of them. Tire wear is pretty even all around. I'll definitely be sawwing at the wheel for an hour even after I get it settled down a bit more. Even with the racing brakes, I've gotta brake way early. Oughtta be interesting. Sure this race has been won with the likes of Truenos and Alto Works that stuck to the road like paint, but I think it'll be plenty challenging to put down over an hours worth of clean laps with beautiful sound.
If I understand right with the LSD, as the initial torque slider moves up, it acts more like a "Locked Diff". The accell and decell are to ballance it's action on accell and decell. With the initial maxxed, the figures of accell and decell are voided. Right? That's how I understand it from Scaff's tuning guide.
Oh yeah, and since this is a Cobra, a relic from a better time, I'm not allowing myself any more TCS than 1. (Probably should be 0) That's part of the reason it's a bit squirrelly.
I still feel that I don't need to add any more power to the Snake. It'll outrun the Zonda in a straight line, in the Professional NA Race at Seattle. Ive been using that as my test race. It's still too squirrelly to run the clean laps I'll need to run the enduro. I did add Racing Brakes, Fully Adjustable Suspension, and an LSD. I'm using Slicks and can almost get 10 laps out of them. Tire wear is pretty even all around. I'll definitely be sawwing at the wheel for an hour even after I get it settled down a bit more. Even with the racing brakes, I've gotta brake way early. Oughtta be interesting. Sure this race has been won with the likes of Truenos and Alto Works that stuck to the road like paint, but I think it'll be plenty challenging to put down over an hours worth of clean laps with beautiful sound.
If I understand right with the LSD, as the initial torque slider moves up, it acts more like a "Locked Diff". The accell and decell are to ballance it's action on accell and decell. With the initial maxxed, the figures of accell and decell are voided. Right? That's how I understand it from Scaff's tuning guide.
Oh yeah, and since this is a Cobra, a relic from a better time, I'm not allowing myself any more TCS than 1. (Probably should be 0) That's part of the reason it's a bit squirrelly.
Last edited:
- 10,551
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
This is interesting. We are a couple car geeks, are we not?
That thing you said about making the suspension soft. That's waht i would expect in this car so that bumps don't upset it. Short wheelbase, so spin happy. This goes for the Dodge Concept of GT1 >2, as well as GT40s...
I've always understood initial limited-slip action to be the resistance acting between 2 wheels when the car is coasting, but neither brakes nor gas are being applied. So when you're going thru a corner with no gas, and you've let up the brakes, what is left is initial torque. So if your initial is high, those wheels are still trying to lock even if you aren't throtleing or braking.
From there on, opinion differs, depending on which source you read. Some think like Scaff. Other places i've visited say initial gets added to either accel or decel for a final result. In other words, put on the gas and
initial + accel = final result. rather than initial and accel being totally seperate from one another in their actions
Same goes with brakes. It confuses me a bit to this day. I don't truely know how limited-slips work on a mechanical basis; i;ve only studied open differentials since i've pulled one apart a couple times at my shop.
I generally avoid strong limited-slip settings on pavement unless extreme situation calls for them, like in a high-speed squirrel like the Cobra.
