yellow bird

[Mr Whippy]

Dunno if GT4 takes this into account, but adding ballast adds weight, and with that increased weight, comes increased inertia.

Might not sound bad, but thats what helps the car be pointy, well a lack of inertia does. The Lotus Elise is darty and pointy because the chassis can alter it's attitude quickly using the grip in the tyres because it's so low inertia.

Add lots of ballast, and it might handle a bit better in one respect, but it'll take more to make it change direction!!!

If it goes sideways, then drive it sideways

Like someone said though, use camber, 2 front, 0 back, then up the rear camber to suit each track... that is a quick and easy way to alter the grip in corners, but still allow oversteer if you want to and maintain the original ride etc...

Dave

 

[Baranoid]

Hi,

just wanted to share some thoughts about old nine elevens. I own a 2.7 1976 Carrera S and here are some of my experiences about the behavior of the car.

First of all, the car felt a bit scary and unpredictable to drive at first. Mine has 220 hp and it weights 970 kg, so it is not as powerfull as the RUF's in the game. Anyway, the basic behavior is very much the same, I would imagine.

I've learned my lessons in wet, when the power is greater than grip. First thing to learn is not to back off on throttle when the rear starts sliding, this will make the tail swing out even further and it is very difficult to take control of once sliding. However, with throttle modulation the tail can be controlled and it actually is pretty easy and rewarding to drive. The trick is to keep the angle right with the amount of power applied to the rear wheels.

Another characteristic of the car is its tendency to swing sideways when breaking hard and turning at the same time. In wet conditions this is difficult to control, so I usually try to brake on the straight and start accelerating pretty early in the corner, usually before the apex. This is pretty fun to do and is a fast way to make progress.

Anyway, an old 911 is a thrill to drive as you feel that there always is something new to learn about the car. They are very direct and communicative cars with some unique handling characteristics.

Cheers.

 

[Red Raevyn]

(edit: I of course have all the traction control and such turned off.)
I slapped a Stage 2 Turbo on so I could enter Supercars, and went at Infineon. Oh man, did the bird put me back in my place! My first 2 laps were like 2:05 and 1:56, pinball style. I then ran a 1:48, 1:46, and when I started braking earlier and being gentler with the throttle, I put down a 1:41 (this is what the competition was running with warm tires). The 5th lap I messed up and the 6th lap my tires were shot, I decided to check GTP to see whether I just needed to keep practicing, or change my settings. I'm going to turn my rear camber down a bit, but other than that I think it is just driving the car like it was designed to be driven. I'm looking forward to doing a race with my laps under 1:40.

 

[Crayola]

Its because the engine is at the back. There is hardly any weight at the front.

 

[50/50]

...and the power and the semi-drift-like driving style...(destroys the rear tires)

 

[tyler5]

could anyone provide me with the suspension settings for the yellow bird?
i think it handles great, i get pretty good times at the tsukuba circuit (0:55:xxx with no power upgrades) but there is no way in hell i could ever finish a lap at nurbürgring without driving off the track at least 3 times because of the bumpy road. what should i do to make the car driveable at the nürburgring? i am a completely clueless when it comes to tuning so specific setups would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance.

 

[HareTurtle]

i seem to be having a different problem. the car understeers terribly. i can turn in i can hold speed in the turn. i just go off the track. i have the car fully tuned. anything i can do to make it drive like normal?

I found that adding some radical toe (+3/-3) like the GT3 F1 default, really helped the cornering, though of course, it costs a little in acceleration and top end. Other than that, I've set springs to 15/12 and ride height to 80/84, which seems to have diminished the tendency for the car to go into severe oscillations (swerve to the left, swerve to the right, left, right, slam wall). I've been tuning this at Midfield reverse, to take a shot at the Supercar Festival. I've managed to win the Midfield (R) race there (570 hp, 1081 kg), haven't tried the others yet.

The driving suggestions in this thread (brake straight, let the rear come around a bit in the corners, etc.) are bang on. I'll try some of the suggested settings. The car still drives like it weighs 1400 kg, and still needs some help with the rumbles.

 

[Poolboy-'88 LSC]

I just picked this car up and these are my first efforts at tunig it. Ithink that it went pretty well.

Full tune:

SP: F-11.7 R-11.9
RH: F-100 R-110
SB: F-7 R-6
SR: F-7 R-7
CA: F- 2.0 R- 1.0
TA: F-0 R- 1
ST: F-7 R- 5

BR: F-4 R- 3

Racing SS tire front and back

 

[JDMhatchback20]

Here are my setting for the Yellow Bird. These might not work for everyone but they should be a great help to some of you. Just remember the brakes are not that good no matter what.

Buy all 3 stages of lightweight
-weight 1081kg
-637hp and nitros (set nitros low or you will fry tires quicker 30-40 range)
-Turbo stage 3
-Racing intercooler

Brake controller setting
-16 front------14rear

-Tripple clutch
-racing flywheel

-Suspension settings
-----------front--------------rear--------
Spring rate 11.7----spring rate 11.9
ride height 85-------ride height 85
shock bound 8---------------------8
rebound----- 8---------------------8
camber angle 2--------camber angle 1
toe--------------0-------------------0
stabalizers-----7------------------7


Full customize Transmission
Final 4.00
Auto 13

Full customize Limitied-slip
Initial torque 19
accelerator 40
Decelerator 20

driving aids 10,10,5 these could be adjusted down a little. mabey 9,9,4

I used these settings and they proved to work fairly well but im still have a few problems. One problem is my car has some insent bouncing towards the front end, and the other is that I am having some major traction issues being that when im driving and full boost kicks in i loose traction all the way through the rest of the gear. my settings consist of:


all 3 stages of lightweight
-797hp
-Turbo stage 4
-Racing intercooler

Brake controller setting
-16 front------9rear


-Suspension settings
-----------front--------------rear--------
Spring rate 11.7----spring rate 11.9
ride height 85-------ride height 85
shock bound 8---------------------8
rebound----- 8---------------------8
camber angle 2.5--------camber angle 1.5
toe--------------0-------------------0
stabalizers-----5------------------7


Full customize Transmission
All possible Upgrades
Final 4.00
Auto 17

Full customize Limitied-slip
Initial torque 19
accelerator 40
Decelerator 20

Tires :s1's

driving aids: 8,8,3

Front/rear weight:-10

 

[Baranoid]

Hi,

I have been driving around the Ring with a Yellowbird now for about 100 laps (alone). IMHO, the best setup for the car is the original one, only modifications I would recommend are a brake upgrade and weight removal. Also, this car works best with the original tyres, racing tires make it too snappy.

With this setup, the car is a thrill to drive. Long powerslides just as on the Fascination video are possible, as well as sub 8 minute times. The original gear ratios & the torque curve of the engine make cool & controlled slides easy.

The car does not understeer, as it should not. The trick is to induce a hint of oversteer when entering a curve with slight tap on the brakes. After this it is easy to hold the car in slide through the corner.

The Yellowbird cannot be made easy to drive, as for example a 3 series BMW is. For me, the thrill comes out of learning the car and the Ring by adding speed slowly, I started with 10 minute times.


http://www.aocb77.dsl.pipex.com/RUF.wmv

 

[orpheusd0wn]

Hi,

I have been driving around the Ring with a Yellowbird now for about 100 laps (alone). IMHO, the best setup for the car is the original one, only modifications I would recommend are a brake upgrade and weight removal. Also, this car works best with the original tyres, racing tires make it too snappy.

With this setup, the car is a thrill to drive. Long powerslides just as on the Fascination video are possible, as well as sub 8 minute times. The original gear ratios & the torque curve of the engine make cool & controlled slides easy.

The car does not understeer, as it should not. The trick is to induce a hint of oversteer when entering a curve with slight tap on the brakes. After this it is easy to hold the car in slide through the corner.

The Yellowbird cannot be made easy to drive, as for example a 3 series BMW is. For me, the thrill comes out of learning the car and the Ring by adding speed slowly, I started with 10 minute times.


http://www.aocb77.dsl.pipex.com/RUF.wmv

Very well said.

This entire thread has been very enlightening, and very helpful. The advice about adjusting to the this car (instead of trying to tune it neutral) is the truth.

I have a question though:

Which rims look best on the Yellow Bird?

 

[arnold]

It's the BEST drift car in the game tho

 

[The_Tuning_Don]

i haven't done any tuning to this car yet, but it seems like the ass on it is really heavy or something, it breaks free easily and spins me out more than any other car i've used. anyone else notice this? (i decided to post this after seeing the elise thread. it feels different than the way the elise breaks free. the elise feels like it looses traction becasue its too lite, this one feels like its heavy and swings around.)

RUF CRT "Yellow Bird"

__________ (Race)
SR_______9.4/9.9
RH_______91/96
SB________3/4
SRB_______6/9
CA______2.0/1.0
TA________0/0
ST________6/2

LSD
IT__________15
Acel________47
Decel_______26

Breaks______6/3

1st___________2.649
2nd___________1.678
3rd___________1.195
4th___________0.898
5th___________0.702
6th___________0.568
Final__________3.762
Auto___________17

NoS_______User-pref

ASM over______0
ASM under_____0
TCS___________5

Try This and tell me what you think

 

[ck1yiaa]

Aside from learning the driving style associated with RR 911s, I spent a bit of time trying to learn how to tune the 911s in GT4. I'm not at home right now and I can't remember the entire setup of my BTR and Yellowbird. However, I have found that the most important stabilizing factor is the deceleration setting on the limited slip. I believe my settings are 15/50/45, 45 being the decel setting. That has had by far the greatest effect on keeping the rear end in check. Keep in mind that I do not use any ballast on my Rufs.

Also, I have found that the car seems to work with greater negative camber in the rear than the front, and quick online searches of real track 911 setups seem to match this. My setup is pretty extreme, but it lets me get through the Ring pretty easily in the BTR; 3.0 degrees in front and 3.5 in back. A more conservative setup, for both angle and wear, would be 2.5 in front and 3.0 in back. The main point is to maximize grip on the rear wheels during a turn to prevent the rear end from breaking loose (grip is the 911's greatest asset, so maximize it). Of course, if needed, you can always bring the rear end around simply by lifting off the throttle, as with any 911.

My best Ring time thus far with the BTR on R3 (Medium) is a 6:38:xx, 7 seconds quicker than my M3 CSL. My BTR and my Yellowbird use nearly the same setup. Both my Rufs are tuned for maximum power.

 

[MOTRSPRT]

I've been tuning this at Midfield reverse, to take a shot at the Supercar Festival. I've managed to win the Midfield (R) race there (570 hp, 1081 kg), haven't tried the others yet.

The driving suggestions in this thread (brake straight, let the rear come around a bit in the corners, etc.) are bang on. I'll try some of the suggested settings. The car still drives like it weighs 1400 kg, and still needs some help with the rumbles.

This is exactly what I'm in the process of doing right now: tuning the Yellowbird on MidField Raceway for the Supercar Festival. I've taken Camaroboy69's settings and modified them a bit to reflect the following:
sr: 11.3 F, 12.4 R
rear camber: 1.0
swaybar: F 6, R 7
brake bias: 18 F, 24 R

Learning how the car drives is the best thing one can do. With these settings, I find that the car responds best to "off-throttle" situations by straightening out or turning when the engine brakes, whichever direction I have the front wheels pointed. I found that I can go full throttle through some corners now where I was not able to do so before.
On MidField Raceway track I have turned a 1'15.969 lap time. With this car, that is the best I can do--it is down from 1'24 times and consistent 1'20 lap times without these settings. I have it saved so once I figure out how to transfer it to USB I can take a snapshot of the car/lap time to show.

 

[Scaff]

brake bias: 18 F, 24 R

I'm just wondering why you have you're brake balance set so high and with a major bias to the rear?

Personally I would lower both these figures (a lot) and move the bias towards the front, starting around 5 F, 4 R.

The reason is that with your high rear bias the car could become unstable under hard braking, particularly with all that weight as the back, a front bias would maintain stability under hard braking and ensure that you use all the grip level your tyres can offer to keep braking distances as short as possiable.

 

[MOTRSPRT]

I'll give that a try. I was thinking with more weight on the rear of the car my braking would be better. I originally had it the same as Camaroboy69, but it wasn't enough braking so I upped it to 16/20. That improved, or so it seemed so I figured I'd go to 18/24 just to try it out. Not much change. I have not gone the other direction in the tuning process, though...Worth a try.
Still, the key is braking way before the corner and not through the corner. Getting into the correct gear for the turn, and nailing the throttle at the right time. I find that these cars can accelerate a bit sooner than a FR car and help steer through the corner, such as just before the apex where most FR cars require you to wait just a split second longer once you hit the corner's apex before accelerating.
BTW, I'm still using the old school hand-held controller and not a wheel with accelerator pedal. So my throttle is either all ON or all OFF with the button... 👎

 

[Scaff]

I'll give that a try. I was thinking with more weight on the rear of the car my braking would be better. I originally had it the same as Camaroboy69, but it wasn't enough braking so I upped it to 16/20. That improved, or so it seemed so I figured I'd go to 18/24 just to try it out. Not much change. I have not gone the other direction in the tuning process, though...Worth a try.
Still, the key is braking way before the corner and not through the corner. Getting into the correct gear for the turn, and nailing the throttle at the right time. I find that these cars can accelerate a bit sooner than a FR car and help steer through the corner, such as just before the apex where most FR cars require you to wait just a split second longer once you hit the corner's apex before accelerating.
BTW, I'm still using the old school hand-held controller and not a wheel with accelerator pedal. So my throttle is either all ON or all OFF with the button... 👎

Logic would seem to dictate that more braking force to the rear would be better, but unfortunatly its not true; in fact it will normally make the problem worse and increase your braking distance.

Have a read of the following, its an excellent paper on how brake bias works in real racing terms and is directly appliable to GT4.

Brake Bias and Performance

This is also worth a read

Braking Systems…in Plain English


You may also want to visit the GT4 & Brakes thread, for discussions, articles and tests on all things braking related; you will the thread at the top of the GT4 Car Tuning & Settings thread list or just click on the link in my sig.

It is a big thread, with a lot to read, but start with the first page as my first post is now an index and summary with direct links to all the good stuff.

Regards

Scaff

 

[roadrunnerx]

I'll give that a try. I was thinking with more weight on the rear of the car my braking would be better. I originally had it the same as Camaroboy69, but it wasn't enough braking so I upped it to 16/20. That improved, or so it seemed so I figured I'd go to 18/24 just to try it out. Not much change. I have not gone the other direction in the tuning process, though...Worth a try.
Still, the key is braking way before the corner and not through the corner. Getting into the correct gear for the turn, and nailing the throttle at the right time. I find that these cars can accelerate a bit sooner than a FR car and help steer through the corner, such as just before the apex where most FR cars require you to wait just a split second longer once you hit the corner's apex before accelerating.
BTW, I'm still using the old school hand-held controller and not a wheel with accelerator pedal. So my throttle is either all ON or all OFF with the button... 👎

Ive just had a play with the tuning on this car(yellow bird) and have just done a 6.23.821 on the nurburgring, pretty much eliminated it tail end happiness and most of its under steer, its late here so Ill come back tommorw with the settings,

 

[ppucci]

I see in this thread 2, maybe 3 different settings... I am looking for a good YellowBird setting to use on Infineon, Supercar Fest... no driving aids, just settings Tks!

 

[MOTRSPRT]

I see in this thread 2, maybe 3 different settings... I am looking for a good YellowBird setting to use on Infineon, Supercar Fest... no driving aids, just settings Tks!

Yes, you and I both!! I am still playing with my settings and I think my suspension settings are nearly dialed in. The only hurdle I face now is my tire situation--by the 4th lap they start turning yellow and on the 5th lap they are orange and I slide everywhere. I could be in 1st place, but I just cannot make it to the finish line in that position. So, are my suspension settings really dialed in due to this hurdle? I dunno. I sort of gave up in that area of the game and have been running Special Condition Races lately--never with the Yellowbird, though.

If you want my settings, I can get them for you. Let me know.

 

[MOTRSPRT]

I played with my settings on the Yellowbird and found that by fitting the soft sport tires to the front and medium sport tires to the rear they would last the entire race without any serious issues. However, I had to tighten up on the TCS and oversteer driving aids quite a bit (double digit #'s). I also played around with the LSD settings. In the end, my tires were lasting the entire race and I was turning consistent 1'42".xxx with a best of 1'40".xxx. A little more practice and I should finally win this race

 

[toucci]

I was able to lap dem nuerburgring in 7'55.957 with the stock yellow bird wtih all aids off and soft street tire using the driving force pro. The experience was exciting at each corner and gives a feel for the famous 911 handling many of us have only heard about. The yellow bird is a demonic machine, because it combines the already twitchy 911's chassis with weight reduction and a powerful motor with engine braking that will eat you alive.

Here is a fantastic video showing how fast, precise steering inputs are required to lap the nuerburgring in this beast:
http://www.aocb77.dsl.pipex.com/RUF.wmv

 

[panjandrum]

I've been driving this car quite a bit recently with racing tires and with the most power you can throw into it and I have to say it is a great handling car. I did add the sports suspension to lower it just a tad and stiffen the shocks (actually, come to think of it, you get the sports suspension on the car when you win it, you don't have to add it).

If you don't have the DFP, I think you'll have a hard time with this vehicle though. The key to driving it is feeling how the rear-end is coming around, but you can't feel that without the correct wheel. For those having trouble with the car, borrow a friends DFP if you can and give it a try, you'll probably have a lot better time.

 

[Baranoid]

Hi guys,

here is a really interesting video about the Yellowbird.


http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7007840369175411712&q=nurburgring+duration:long

 

[Scaff]

Hi guys,

here is a really interesting video about the Yellowbird.


http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7007840369175411712&q=nurburgring+duration:long

Please note all - This is the full 21 minute Yellowbird at the 'ring footage, not just the laps.

An excellent find Baranoid.

Regards

Scaff

 

[ImprezaAddict]

its RR what do you expect man?
its a real back-heavy car
thats why it spins

 

[sucahyo]

It seems GT4 do not simulate bigger rear tire as much as real life.

 

[McLaren]

Yes, the Yellowbird in GT4 is a little off on its exterior features.

I, too, noticed this after seeing one of the few, if not, the only one in the States (only in Texas at least) at Ruf Auto Centre. (See Avatar for car.)

 

[Dave_George]

Interesting thread about the Yellowbird, my own experience with it may or may not help you!

We ran the Yellowbird in the Nurburgring Race series final a few weeks back, standard on N3 tyres. I would reccomend that to master this car, start with it standard as you can adjust the suspension from stock, be wary of jumping in with the full tune if your unsure about how to set a car up....as this isnt the car to put wrong settings on, and be wary of others setups as they should always be tried as a reference only, better to read Scaff's excellent tuning guide and have a go at setting it up yourself IMO.

The main things I found with the CTR was that it worked with a balance to the rear being lower and softer than the front, and with slightly higher camber at the rear also. I fitted a brake balance controller and reduced the rear bias to 1 and upped the front to 4. On N3 tyres these values proved quite good and made the car a LOT more stable under heavy braking.

My specific values are not as important as the principle of having the rear lower and softer to help with traction and reduce oversteer but I will post them for you to try perhaps :

Ride Height 115F 110R

Damping 6F 2R

Camber 2.2F 2.8R

Brake balance 4F 1R

With this setup I achieved a 7'34.xxx lap of the Nurburgring, running N3 tyres, 469BHP and No driver aids.

Another thing I noticed is to listen to peoples advice (as has already been said on here) that the 911 is quite unique in its RR layout and as such needs you to adapt your driving style, slow in, brake early, get the nose turned in and power out with the rear sliding works really well and you will soon find a good rythym with this car, it doesnt really suffer the understeer that it is often critisized so much for.

I havent driven the CTR on racing tyres or with racing suspension so I cant comment on those specifically, however I do believe that the basic principles would still apply.👍

regards

Dave