Zyla's 1990 Acura Legend - Oops...

  • Thread starter Zyla
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colour should never be on a wheel.
I'll pretend you didn't say that ;)

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(Granted, a 1990s Honda is not a 1970s 2.7 RS, but never say never...)
 
Yeah, as most people have said, I'd try to avoid reps. A friend of mine has Schmidt reps on his Polo, but he's only got three now after he hit a curb which resulted in this:

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He wasn't even going that fast, either.

I'd look for second hand ones from decent companies, to be honest. The Wheel Sanctuary is a good place to look, they have sellers of all kinds of weird and wonderful wheels for sale all over the world. If you can't find any in the offset you want, then as already mentioned, there's always spacers. ;)
 
I agree with Slash. Go with Corvette salad shooters.


and added some MS paint low to one of your pictures

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Salad shooters have an offset of ET36 and I seem to recall they are 9s. With say 20mm adaptors you'll have a real offset of ET16. On the stock fenders I'm pretty sure that will poke a lot.. That's the main problem using early salad shooters on Golfs anyway; the later C4s with the sawblades have an offset of 50+ which is much more suited when you need adaptors :)
 
I believe the fronts were 8.5in wide, just pull the fendurs and ad tyte camber dude
 
Yup.. Googling a bit the red coupe is actually running 9Jx17 ET15 so it's doable. Doesn't look like he has a stupid amount of camber to pull it off either.. No wider than 20mm adaptors and pulled/rolled fenders should do the trick.

What I'd do is measure from the inside of the stock wheels and tires to the truth and from the outside to the fender lip. See how low and high of an offset you can run. 16x7 ET35 reps are boring :)
 
Another option would be to run Fiero GT wheels, I know some of the VW guys do it and they are also really common among Neon owners who want mesh wheels that they can score from a junkyard. You'll still need adapters though.
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I hope you don't mind @Zyla, but I may steal one of your pictures and play with some ideas for a few hours in Photoshop. :D

Glad most of the problems ended up being minor easy to fix things, changing the trans fluid though should definitely be a huge priority, definitely need to get that done asap. :)
 
So I'm leaning towards either this "sawblade"? style or XXR 531s. I'm sure some of you know about XXRs, so you might try to dissuade me from purchasing them. I'm not gonna track the car (maybe twice at most), so I think the XXRs can handle my daily driving. Does anyone have anything about this brand they'd like to share?
 
The only thing I've ever heard about XXR wheels is that they crack really easily, and while you might not being doing too aggressive of driving to cause stress fractures, wheels that crack easily will also bend easily. I had cheap wheels on my MINI Cooper and I ended up bending three of them. Also looking into them it also looks like they are gravity cast meaning they can be harder to balance and they are painted instead of being powder coated, meaning you'll chip off the color easier.

I'd recommend saving a little while longer and getting some more named brand wheels. When I had my Focus I spent a $1,000 for a set of Team Dynamic wheels instead of spending $600 for some similar spec'ed off brand wheels and never once had an issue with them. They even migrated to the Volvo and now they are going back on the Focus. They never bent, cracked, and the finish on them is still great despite living in Michigan with our awful roads.
 
The only thing I've ever heard about XXR wheels is that they crack really easily, and while you might not being doing too aggressive of driving to cause stress fractures, wheels that crack easily will also bend easily. I had cheap wheels on my MINI Cooper and I ended up bending three of them. Also looking into them it also looks like they are gravity cast meaning they can be harder to balance and they are painted instead of being powder coated, meaning you'll chip off the color easier.

I'd recommend saving a little while longer and getting some more named brand wheels.

Must be why I was so interested in the Works.
 
Yup, you get what you pay for.

When it comes to wheels, I'm a sucker for getting a good deal at a quality used wheel because they don't depreciate. If you spend $500 on old Works (or similar) and refurbish them you'll get your money back when selling them. If you spend $500 on XXRs you'll get $200 back in a year because the market's flooded and you'll have bent two and new ones are cheap. Just my two cents. Also reps can crack, not that it happens to all sets but it happens. Plus knock offs are exactly that, by buying knock offs people are essentially saying it's okay to steal designs.

EDIT:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-hart..._Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item3a9fbab6ef&vxp=mtr
Oh hell yes do it.. :)
 
Here's my latest render of some steelies I personally think would look great. Very affordable, durable, and they give the car a great look (imo). In the photo, they're about the equivalent to 17s or 18s. I was hoping to stay under 18 inch wheels, because I don't want to drive a donk. Either way...

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Sorry for not deleting the bottom half... aka my workspace
 
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Here's my latest render of some steelies I personally think would look great. Very affordable, durable, and they give the car a great look (imo). In the photo, they're about the equivalent to 17s or 18s. I was hoping to stay under 18 inch wheels, because I don't want to drive a donk. Either way...

QHWCjg9.png
Those are truck wheels.
 
Yeah, no go on steelies. Every swagster has them and they are REALLY heavy.

If you can find them, Enkei RP02s are good. Not too heavy and wont break the bank. I bought a set for $500 with tires last year.
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I know you want 16-17's, but if you ever decide to go to a smaller size, I always liked the Fatlace and AME wheel collaboration. I've only seen them in 15" :(

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Nice Legend BTW, I was considering one before.. well actually I still wouldnt mind one. I've always been attracted to the coupe of the next gen.
 
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