Driving Force Pro users, please notice

Hi,

Many DFP Users to know, it isnt easy to drive straight ahead with high speed.
With 100% Force Feedback strongness, the Wheel begins to dangle.

This negative effect You can to attenuate by disable the Rumble-Signal for Dual Shock Controller ( In the GT4 settings Menu for Dual Shock Controller )


Laters
Werner :)
 
Hello Der Alta


Nice of you to ask!

It is all at best, only I had a little to much work at the last months.
( And I think here are current sufficient Threads and Postings :odd: )

You must have a lot of Work too :guilty:


laters

:)
 
Werner Winkels
Hi,

Many DFP Users to know, it isnt easy to drive straight ahead with high speed.
With 100% Force Feedback strongness, the Wheel begins to dangle.

This negative effect You can to attenuate by disable the Rumble-Signal for Dual Shock Controller ( In the GT4 settings Menu for Dual Shock Controller )


Laters
Werner :)

I have had a problem with my GT Force Pro. It's delayed steering, which is for example: You turn the steering wheel, but it doesn't turn at all.
 
Hitman
I have had a problem with my GT Force Pro. It's delayed steering, which is for example: You turn the steering wheel, but it doesn't turn at all.


Sorry,
I dont understanding the problem complete
( My english isnt the best :) )
 
Welcome back, Werner!

I believe he is saying that his GT Force Pro does not react correctly. When he turns the wheel, nothing happens to the car immediately.
 
Thank's Duke

I'm not to be sure, possibly the speed sensor / the appurtenant counting disc is dusty .

Maybe he can to correct this error by dedusting the pulser !?
The Pulser ist the small sensor and the dagged-cogwheel behind the FF-Motor




Edit:

The DFP dont like hair and dust . ( The pulser isnt sealed up )

Mabe the dagged-cogwheel is soiled, or the Sensor isnt in exact position to the dagged-cogwheel .

This to effect the car dont to follow accurate the Wheel and the wheel goes off-center

You can try to clean the dagged-cogwheel with a soft brush.



If this not help, You can to distort "careful" the Sensor to find the best position.

But please do this in "verry, verry small" steps, the Sensor can to break away !



Laters
Werner
 

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The intense wheel shake is a major reason why I do not enjoy driving the La Sarthe Mulsanne Straight. This is good news if this fix actually works. I'll try it later tonight and post results if noone else beats me to it.

thanks,
 
Werner Winkels
Hi,

Many DFP Users to know, it isnt easy to drive straight ahead with high speed.
With 100% Force Feedback strongness, the Wheel begins to dangle.

This negative effect You can to attenuate by disable the Rumble-Signal for Dual Shock Controller ( In the GT4 settings Menu for Dual Shock Controller )


Laters
Werner :)


You guys look at this as a "bug" rather than a "feature"? Is it so bad that it makes you crash on the Mulsanne?

Mine shakes a lot as well, with "Strong" feedback, "Simulation" steering mode, and steering assists "off", and I have no problem. I thought the old adage was that "small dips and bumps become jumps at higher speeds"?

:)
 
I like the shaking, and I'd call it more of a feature than a bug, too.

PD seem to have created a better sense of speed visually in GT4, but it's not 100%. It never will be unless you've got a 20 ft screen and you're sat 4 feet away!

However, the 'shaking' of the DFP in my opinion adds to the intensity of high speed. Ie, you can't just rest a hand on the wheel on a bumpy road at 240MPH. The slightest driver error at those sort of speeds results in loss of control. Quite close to real life I would have thought. And it acts as a reminder as to how fast you are going. 140MPH on a motorway in real life is scary enough - you have to stay sharp and 100% in control at all times. I'd imagine driving a flame-spitting LM car at speeds over 200MPH must be five times more intense.

TIP: If you can't handle the DFP shake, GRIP IT HARDER!!!!! :dopey:
 
Well actually I don't think it should shake as bad as it does. The shake is too pronounced anyway. My dad says that a car, especially the extremely aerodynamic ones like the LM cars, should shake VERY little if at all. He syas he's raced over 140 in his '68 Camaro and there was no shaking and that thing's a big brick of a car.
 
Riplox
Well actually I don't think it should shake as bad as it does. The shake is too pronounced anyway. My dad says that a car, especially the extremely aerodynamic ones like the LM cars, should shake VERY little if at all. He syas he's raced over 140 in his '68 Camaro and there was no shaking and that thing's a big brick of a car.


:confused:

'68 Camaro @ 140mph on (your track here) = modern LMP @ 220mph on the bumpy Mulsanne straight?

If there should be "no shaking", why did the CLK GTR flip 2-3 times at full chirp? Most tracks aren't parking lot smooth. I'm sure PD just wanted to give the sensation of engine, steering wheel, and wind vibration, all acting on the car at the same time...just look what happens to an F1 driver when he simply shifts gears. The only way they can simulate any of that is thru the wheel...unless some of you guys have setups that vibrate your seats. :P
 
Exactly, im pretty sure the mulsanne is just a public road, so it is bound to have issues.
I just had a few laps around the ring' in a r390 in enthusia, and it felt as if someone had resurfaced the whole track, far to smooth.
 
colnago
:confused:

'68 Camaro @ 140mph on (your track here) = modern LMP @ 220mph on the bumpy Mulsanne straight?

If there should be "no shaking", why did the CLK GTR flip 2-3 times at full chirp? Most tracks aren't parking lot smooth. I'm sure PD just wanted to give the sensation of engine, steering wheel, and wind vibration, all acting on the car at the same time...just look what happens to an F1 driver when he simply shifts gears. The only way they can simulate any of that is thru the wheel...unless some of you guys have setups that vibrate your seats. :P

Yes, I agree with you. It's also interesting to notice that the vibration are nowhere stronger than in Le Mans, and that's for a reason. This track is not a regular one, the Hunaudieres straight is part of an everyday road, so that make it bumpy, not as smooth as a track especially designed for 800hp race cars. LMP cars also don't have the same suspension settings as a 68 Camaro. The shakings may just be a little too excessive IMO, I don't see how you can drive that way in real life for 2 or 3 hours !! but I'm not a professional driver anyway, so....
 
AJP400
And it acts as a reminder as to how fast you are going. 140MPH on a motorway in real life is scary enough - you have to stay sharp and 100% in control at all times. :
140mph isn't scary. It's exciting and yes you have to stay sharp.

The shaking of the wheel is too much. Yes it should shake but I can't control many of the lighter weight vehicles at high speed (gripping the wheel in every way imaginable) which is not completely realistic.
 
Simulation mode is for the driving force wheel only, not the DFP, at least that's what it says on my copy of GT4

There is a setting for the strength of the feedback, I think there are three settings; soft, normal & hard.
 
Kremithefrog
140mph isn't scary. It's exciting and yes you have to stay sharp.

The shaking of the wheel is too much. Yes it should shake but I can't control many of the lighter weight vehicles at high speed (gripping the wheel in every way imaginable) which is not completely realistic.

Not sure if you've ever driven on a British motorway at 140mph, but I have. In two different cars: My old car (my first love!), a 1989 Audi Coupe 2.2E five cylinder, with Schrick cam and large valves (165BHP); and my current car, a 1996 Audi A4 1.8 Turbo Sport with AmD custom remap (203BHP). Now doing 140mph (I managed 148mph actaully) on a disused runway isn't scary. I've done this too. There's nothing to hit, no bends, and plenty of room to brake. However, doing the same speed on (even a relatively quiet) motorway IS scary, believe me. You don't know which car might pull in front of you, or which car is an unmarked cop, or how the tyres and suspension will handle a sweeping bend at 140mph. It IS scary, so don't tell me otherwise!

And if you can't handle the shaking, try setting it to 60% force feedback (I assume you have a DFP). Failing that, you're just not strong enough, or a bad driver!

PS: Don't get upset; I'm only messing with you! :)
 
Riplox
Well actually I don't think it should shake as bad as it does. The shake is too pronounced anyway. My dad says that a car, especially the extremely aerodynamic ones like the LM cars, should shake VERY little if at all. He syas he's raced over 140 in his '68 Camaro and there was no shaking and that thing's a big brick of a car.

Sorry Riplox, but that is no right.

The suspension set-up and aerodynamics of a LM car are built to keep the car in contact with the road as much as possiable and through downforce allow extreamly high levels of downforce. These will cause a car to shake at high speed on a less than perfect surface. If you can get hold of copy of 'In-car 956', with Derek Bell lapping Le Mans; on the Mulsane he quite clearly having to fight to maintain control of the car, same for the laps of the 'ring and Fuji.

Your dads '68 Camaro will have very soft suspension in comparison (to a LM car or I would imagine most modern road cars) and no downforce at all. Additionally it was designed as a road car and will not transfer this kind of force to the driver.

As has also been pointed out 140mph is a lot different to 200mph+.

Additionally a lot of people have advised that if you find this effect a problem then you should grip the wheel tighter. I find that adapting a light but firm grip on the wheel to be much more effective as you do not end up over-correcting every little shake.

This subject was also covered in the GT4 Prologue thread

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1399210&postcount=6
 
Scaff
The suspension set-up and aerodynamics of a LM car are built to keep the car in contact with the road as much as possiable and through downforce allow extreamly high levels of downforce. These will cause a car to shake at high speed on a less than perfect surface.

You found the words I was looking for when I tried to answer a little bit earlier, when I spoke about LMP suspension settings. (still have a lack of vocabulary, but I try to improve myself).

Riplox, if you want to be sure of this, just go driving a Kart. There is no downforce, but you're close to the road, and you feel each irregular part of the road in your hands, the wheel shakes all the time. Of course it's different from an LMP car, but I think it can provide some of the feelings that you get when you drive a race car. There is no compromise beetween comfort and efficiency in a race car.
 
Kremithefrog
...The shaking of the wheel is too much. Yes it should shake but I can't control many of the lighter weight vehicles at high speed (gripping the wheel in every way imaginable) which is not completely realistic.


O.k. first off, I'm going to make fun of you because I doubt that you've driven any of the LMP cars, in the game, over 200mph on the Mulsanne for you to make a "realistic comparison". :)

Secondly
, I'm going to tell you that it is in jest and no harm intended that I'm just joking.

Third, as far as being able to "control lighter vehicles" and it being "too bumpy" at high speeds, more than likely your spring rate is too high. I can barely keep the F1 on track @ "The Ring", with the default settings. Yet I run a 5:06 after adjusting the suspension. Case in point, the yellow Lotus GT1 car from GT2 was a bear to control, yet after softening the springs, it was a pleasure to drive (with all its oversteer).

Also, just having a lot of downforce is not going to make a car "smooth" or "stable". Its more of a combination of amount and "quality" of downforce. F1 engineers fret over simply changing the "size" and "shape" of the brake air ducts, because at 175+ mph it significantly affects the air flow over the rest of the car. So if something as small as an air duct or side mirror makes a difference on air flow, so would the overall shape of the car/wings/etc.

On a more related note, recently the Peugeot teams (Pescarolo car) were complaining that their LMP650 cars at LeMans had an unfair dis-advantage because they couldn't get enough grip running a narrower tire than the LMP900 cars...on the other hand Audi (R8) complained that Peugeot had an unfair advantage because the narrower tires were more aeronamically efficient than their wider tires.

Too much shaking...that's why wind tunnels were developed and cars constantly get changed.
 
I don't know why so many keep comparing this game to reality. It's a damned game. If the wheel shakes too much for you to control it, adjust the force feedback and STFU
 
Scaff
...If you can get hold of copy of 'In-car 956', with Derek Bell lapping Le Mans...

You have to register first, but here is a link-->

In-Car 956 with Derek Bell Download 20.98meg

Also here is a link to a lap around the ring-->

Lap around the ring with Derek Bell in a Porsche 965C 26.7meg

I also took these quotes (by derek himself) from his lap at the ring.

"at around about 175mph the vibrations on the ciruit and the bumps are absolutely astonishing, you can harldy hold the car at all!"

"we are streaming along at about 195mph....but the car is bummping about severely and you just dont seem to get the impressions from
the camera, which is a pity."
 
Hello MotZodd


If the Wheel try to Calibrate continuous, this can have (Maybe) the following causale :

"without engagement"

The Wheel mechanism can not to change in 900 degree Mode
( The White lever with cogs G is to jam )
The Wheel turns left / right and the light is blinking


otherwise


I postet a Photo in the Tread , https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1586059&postcount=114

Maybe the steel plate (named Z2 on the Photo)is twisted .
If the steel plate have to much distant to the sensor, the Wheel cant find the Center Position .
The Wheel turn left / right continuous too


I hope this can help You


Laters
Werner
 

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To bring this back up:

For how many of you has Werner's hint (switching off the rumble effect for the DS2 controllers to prevent the DFP from shaking at high speeds) actually worked? Cause there's a rumour it doesn't work for all versions of GT4. It'd be nice, even if you want to keep your shaking wheel, if you can give this a try and post your results here.

Thanks! 👍
the Interceptor
 
Scaff
Sorry Riplox, but that is no right.

The suspension set-up and aerodynamics of a LM car are built to keep the car in contact with the road as much as possiable and through downforce allow extreamly high levels of downforce. These will cause a car to shake at high speed on a less than perfect surface. If you can get hold of copy of 'In-car 956', with Derek Bell lapping Le Mans; on the Mulsane he quite clearly having to fight to maintain control of the car, same for the laps of the 'ring and Fuji.

Your dads '68 Camaro will have very soft suspension in comparison (to a LM car or I would imagine most modern road cars) and no downforce at all. Additionally it was designed as a road car and will not transfer this kind of force to the driver.

As has also been pointed out 140mph is a lot different to 200mph+.

Additionally a lot of people have advised that if you find this effect a problem then you should grip the wheel tighter. I find that adapting a light but firm grip on the wheel to be much more effective as you do not end up over-correcting every little shake.

This subject was also covered in the GT4 Prologue thread

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1399210&postcount=6

Yes, but the fact remains that the level of shaking is downright silly. Even with the F1 car, it's not normal. I've compared with watching real cars on tv, and it just doesn't make sense.

I finally tested Werner's suggestion this morning (heard about it from someone 2 weeks ago), and it works for me - at least, when I drove my CLK GTR (currently my fastest car in my own savegame - but I will test the other fast cars with a 100% savegame later) and at 360km/h I could still feel the road, but the weird left-right shaking was gone. Now, I hadn't tested this car before this setting, so there's a small chance that this is the only car so far not to have this problem, but I highly doubt that.
 
Arwin
Yes, but the fact remains that the level of shaking is downright silly. Even with the F1 car, it's not normal. I've compared with watching real cars on tv, and it just doesn't make sense.

I finally tested Werner's suggestion this morning (heard about it from someone 2 weeks ago), and it works for me - at least, when I drove my CLK GTR (currently my fastest car in my own savegame - but I will test the other fast cars with a 100% savegame later) and at 360km/h I could still feel the road, but the weird left-right shaking was gone. Now, I hadn't tested this car before this setting, so there's a small chance that this is the only car so far not to have this problem, but I highly doubt that.

Sorry to disagree with you Arwin, while the effect may not be perfectly replicated in GT4, its is realistic, first have a look at krazyboris's post, those are direct quotes from Derek Bell on driving the 956 at the 'ring.

I find it hard to believe that you can say that the effect is not realistic when compaired to an F1 car, just from watching the cars on TV. The steering ratio (lock to lock) on an F1 car is around 160 degrees, the type of correction we are talking about would be almost imposiable to see.

Now regarding set-up, toe angles also play a part here. The front tyres on a car will at speed adopt a slight toe out attitude, the greater the speed the greater the amount is a general rule of thumb.

Example 1 (and exagerated for clarity)

Car at Rest
| |

Car at Speed
\ /

With the wheels adopting a toe out attitude if the car hits an imperfection in the road the car will naturally try and turn.

To increase the high speed stability of the car you could set a small amount of Toe in on the car, which would help with the high speed stability issues.

Example 2 (and exagerated for clarity)

Car at Rest
/ \

Car at Speed
| |

As you can see for the example above and with a lot of things in motorsport (and car setup in general) we have to make a compromise, as while Example two allows for more straight line stability, the toe in at rest and lower speed is going to make the car reluctant to turn.

In fact the majority of race cars are set up with a small amount of Toe out, which will help the cars ability to turn into a corner at lower speeds, but you will be making a sacrifice with the straight line stability of the car.

One of the reasons this is so alien to a lot of people is that road cars are never set up in this way (well as standard from the manufacturer); almost all road cars are set up with Toe in as standard. The loss of a sharper turn-in is a small sacrifice on a road car and as it promotes an initial handling balance of understeer is safer, as is the increase in straight line stability at speed.

You may find the following link on the subject useful.

Camber, Caster and Toe: What do they mean?

Now while I will not dispute that GT4 has got the effect 100% acurate for every car in the game (after all it is just that - a game), to say that the effect is not realistic or that it should be left out is not something I can agree on.

I've said this in a number of posts before (and this is not directed at anyone in particular), the effect is realistic, if you don't like it then a number of solutions have been mentioned on this thread and others. After all its a game and you can play it in any way you want.

But (and this is a big but), do not say that PD have got this wrong. The effect may not be 100% accurate, but within the limits and confines of the game and platform its a damn good piece of work.

I have spent most of my working life in the motor industry (and at 34 thats over a decade) and have driven the majority of volume production cars on sale in the UK, in that time I have also had the pleasure to drive a good number of track and race cars. The difference between a road car and a true race car is massive, much more than a lot of people imagine.

Anyone who have also driven a true race preped car at speed will know that what you gain in initial turn in you generally lose in straight line stability; its almost impossible to increase one without losing the other.

Most race drivers will favour cornering ability over straight line stability, particularly as more and more modern race cars are using power steering systems. Remember a small gain in the corner generally translates to a bigger gain on the straight that follows.
 
I agree that the wheel shaking at high speeds is realistic, but I guess it shouldn't do it as constantly as ist does. Above a certain speed, the wheel begins to move left and right, and if that effect is supposed to be realistic, it rather should move about by chance, and not as constantly as it does, don't you think? And if it's not a bug, why would it stop shaking when you turn off the rumble effect of the DS2?

... which brings me back to the original question: does turning of the rumble effect work? It'd be nice if you confine to the answer of this question, as this is what the thread intentionally was about. Sure you can discuss your opinions on this effect, asking if it's a bug or a feature and if it feels realistically or not. But this thread was meant to clarify if changing the option works for you, so I ask you to try that and give us some feedback!

Thanks! 👍
the Interceptor
 
I appreciate your detailed comments, Scaff, but I fully agree with Interceptor here. The wheel just starts to pull left and right in a regular pattern, and it gets worse the faster you drive. It's the same for nearly all cars, and always happens at 300km/h and above. I'm willing to bet that the behaviour exactly mirrors the DS2 rumble effect's intensity.

the Interceptor
I agree that the wheel shaking at high speeds is realistic, but I guess it shouldn't do it as constantly as ist does. Above a certain speed, the wheel begins to move left and right, and if that effect is supposed to be realistic, it rather should move about by chance, and not as constantly as it does, don't you think? And if it's not a bug, why would it stop shaking when you turn off the rumble effect of the DS2?
 
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