Tuner Garages

  • Thread starter Kent
  • 2,497 comments
  • 227,433 views
Sonzilla, that post looks quite impressive! +rep:tup:

Thanks, I'm usually in GT playground posting hot laps but after watching one of the Speed world challenge races, "Touring" to be exact. I just couldn't help but come in here and share my street version car based on the Tripoint's MS6. I just let my imagination do the rest.

I'm trying to find a car to test but is it just me or are most of the recently posted cars not even worth testing, in other words, "having not so good settings". I know Greycap has got to have something in here worth driving.💡
 
I'm trying to find a car to test but is it just me or are most of the recently posted cars not even worth testing, in other words, "having not so good settings". I know Greycap has got to have something in here worth driving.💡

Feel free to drop by at MFT. We have a ton of slippy/fast and grippy/fast settings there for most peculiar cars, starting from 300bhp Alpine and ending into 740bhp Z06 'vette. Thus I'm certain that you will find a ride that will meet your requirements.
 
This is my '93 MX-5 J-Limited II. She is light and fast enough for me to win the battle with my friend's AE86 in Suzuka Circuit.

mazdaspeedmx593010jb7.jpg


This are the parts to buy:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Brakes
Stage 3 NA
Brake Balance Controller
Port Polishing
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
FC Transmission
Triple-plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Carbon Driveshaft
FC LSD
FC Suspension
R5 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Rigidity Refresh
Increase Rigidity/Rollcage
Oil Change

Suspension
Spring Rate: 7.0 / 8.3
Ride Height: 97 / 102
Bound: 6 / 7
Rebound: 7 / 7
Camber: 2.0 / 1.8
Toe: 0 / 0
Stabilizers: 4 / 5

Brake Controller
Brakes: 3 / 3

Gear Ratios
1st: 2.857
2nd: 1.905
3rd: 1.371
4th: 1.044
5th: 0.850
Final Gear: 4.321

LSD
Init Torque: 10
Accel: 15
Decel: 5

Driving Aids
ASM Oversteer: 0
ASM Understeer: 0
TCS: 0

Time at Suzuka : 2'11.151

Updated 04/X/2007
- Change the 1st and 2nd gear to 2.783 and 1.805
- Lap time at Suzuka : 2'10.255
 
At the time, I'm reading Scaff's tuner guide part 2 about Downforce, LSD and Gear ratio tuning.

Now my question to you is, how do you set up your lsd?
 
Feel free to drop by at MFT. We have a ton of slippy/fast and grippy/fast settings there for most peculiar cars, starting from 300bhp Alpine and ending into 740bhp Z06 'vette. Thus I'm certain that you will find a ride that will meet your requirements.


Leonidae I'm at the point were I can just look at you're settings and tell how the car is going to behave exactly. You nailed it Slippy Fast and Grippy what a blast 👍. At Motegi it just wanted to flirt with the edges on exit on almost every turn. The tail end was lifting a bit I can see how because the front settings were allowing the rear weight to transfer too quickly upfront. Good enough on slow turns but very scary at high speed turns. The camber was a little excessive which affected front bite. I really enjoyed this style because it was fast and intimidating. I just didn't have enough confidence in it, my braking and turn in timing was all off. I know this setup could be driven fast with those settings it just wasn't my style.

So I averaged 1:48's I just couldn't nail it mid turns were I usually can with my R32 VII. So I used my settings and just as I expected, knocked of almost 2 seconds . What I didn't expect was the weight transfer on the R32 were it really did play a big role on overall balance. I usually tune around the stock weight balance to keep that realistic feeling of the car so I tried you're style and when I got it right I matched my time with my normal setup style but my racing line was totally different. PhewwwThat was interesting....

EDITED:
I was invited to visit the MFT Garage. As I walked around I noticed some very unique cars but my eyes were set on the MFT R32 VII. I always enjoyed driving the one I got in my garage so I couldn't resist. So after a couple of laps this is what I asked for :sly:

My Motegi Setup with Leonidae 's style:

Best lap: 1.46.218

SR: 7.3/10.0
RH: 110/117
DBS: 4/6
DBRS: 7/8
camber: 3.4/2.0
toe: 1/3
Stab 5/4
DF: 24/32
BBC: 4/3

Weight balance 23 rear
 
I don't think you have seen the real MFT garage yet. ;) The one in this thread is just a pale shadow when compared to the Mad FinnTuners Co. - the combined effort of us.

That Motegi time is just unbelievably fast, especially with a setup that understeers as much as yours. Was it really driven with only 509 bhp and R3 tyres?
 
I don't think you have seen the real MFT garage yet. ;) The one in this thread is just a pale shadow when compared to the Mad FinnTuners Co. - the combined effort of us.

That Motegi time is just unbelievably fast, especially with a setup that understeers as much as yours. Was it really driven with only 509 bhp and R3 tyres?

lol You must not know my way of driving or seen some of my records, I'm always on the edge. I learned allot from racing in D1 especially from holl01 and iceman. That's the real time no joke. Remember that was a starting point from Leonidae style there is much more room of tuning which a couple of tenths can be made.

I didn't spend much time on it.. My personal setting is far from that which allows me to run consistent 1'26''s. I also took a quick look in the MFT Garage there's a couple interesting setups I may try a couple.
 
To add don't be afraid to mash the gas through the first two apex's that may be the problem. I trail brake into 1 hard then right before or just at the first apex I'm on full throttle mid turn blip then full all the way past the second apex and all the way out. That setup does understeer a bit but like I said it was just to show a little tweaking of the MFT setup. My setup requires even more "weight shift driving" notorious style of driving most 4WD's. If you let off for a second it will understeer that may be what your experiencing. Almost all the skylines can be driven very hard especially if its on full weight reduction and full downforce. Here are my speeds mid turn. Ofcourse I know you may already know all of this but for those who don't it may help.


Perfect these 4 turns and allot of time can be made.
Turn 1: 74mph- turn 2: 87mph
Turn 3: 67mph- turn 4: 96mph
Then continue on with that rhythm.
The last two turns is where I make most of the time. When I get it right I knock of 1/2 a second on avg. I hit the apex at 101mph then Exit out at 72mph top speed front stretch 146-147mph avg Oh gearing also plays a huge role mainly for acceleration.

144mph top speed on 14 Auto preset no tweaking, then 147mph after its been tweaked.
 
The updated settings for the ViPP Mustang G.T. 350R are almost ready.(90%)

And GT40, I'l try your Berlinette soon. I just need to do some things which will take my time untill sunday afternoon.
 
could someone try my skyline or celica? if one of you do decide to try the skyline, take off the vcd and lsd, it's even better without it.
 
'05 Ford Mustang GT

IMG0009.jpg
IMG0008.jpg

IMG0007.jpg
IMG0005.jpg


Specs:
HP: 656
Torque: 622ft-lbs
Weight: 1301kg
Drivetrain: FR
Engine: V8
Displacement: 4600cc

Parts to Buy:
Racing Exhaust
Brake Controller
Stage 3 NA Tuning
Port Polish
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
Full Custom Transmission
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Carbon Driveshaft
Full Custom Suspension
R2 Tires
Stage 1 Weight Reduction
Stage 2 Weight Reduction
Stage 3 Weight Reduction
Oil Change

Settings:
Front/Rear
Spring Rate:11.0/8.8
Ride Height:86/86
Shock Bound:6/6
Shock Rebound:8/8
Camber Angle:2.2/1.4
Toe Angle:0/0
Stabilizers:4/4

Gear Ratios Auto Set to: 15

Brakes:
Front/Rear
4/4

Driving Aids
ASM (oversteer):0
ASM (understeer):0
TCS:2
 
i'll test the mustang for you Green_Flag...
Just finished, and to tell you the truth, it wasn't that bad. it's a pretty quick car, the handling is very nice, but the only thing that i didn't like was the 6,000 rpm redline. you had to shift at around 6,500 or 7,000 rpm. other than that it was pretty good, nice job.
 
'97 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 Coupe​

IMG0004-1.jpg
IMG0003.jpg

IMG0002.jpg
IMG0001-1.jpg


Specs
HP: 431
Torque: 604ft-lbs
Weight: 1373kg
Drivetrain: FR
Engine: V8
Displacement: 5727cc

Parts to Buy:
Racing Chip
Supercharger
Semi Racing Suspension
Stage 1 Weight Reduction
Oil Change

Settings
Spring Rate:5.8/5.0
Ride Height:108/108
Shock Absorbers:7/7
Camber Angle:1.6/1.2

ASM (oversteer):0
ASM (understeer):0
TCS:1

Note: This car was built on a budget to show you do not need tons of money to build a fast car.
 
Last edited:
Testing results of hemisport15's Celica GT-FOUR

👍 easy and docile to drive
👍 not overly tuned
👍 showing signs of great potential

👎 where's the power?
👎 understeery in certain situations

Right. Getting behind the wheel of the Celica I noticed there were still some everyday goodies left in the car, like the CD player and some sound insulation. Well, I thought, this is probably more a trackday rocket than an all out racer. Now let's see how it performs.

Lifting the clutch I noticed that the pulling power was fairly strong but still something was missing, it just didn't feel like a monster with more than 400 bhp on tap. No idea what's causing this, is it the engine note or what, I don't know. But the feeling of extreme power is missing. Oh well, that's not an issue as long as the car moves fast. Approaching the first bend I stomped on the brakes and was pretty close to meeting the barrier as the car wanted to plough straight until I took my foot off the brakes. Some braking understeer in fast decelerating sweepers, I decided to find out what was causing it.

Once on the throttle the car wasn't so bad, naturally there was some inherent understeer but that's completely normal for a four wheel drive car and nothing to be worried about. Seeing the next corner up ahead I wondered how the car would tackle a fast sweeper at full throttle but there was nothing to make my heart beat faster, it cleared the bend without any sweating and held its line well.

After a few more corners I entered the twisty middle section of the track and found out that the car was rock stable, hard to upset and very docile under fast direction changes. It pulls well out of tighter corners without traction problems and the driver has to screw up really badly to make it spin out in normal cornering. Overall a very easy car to drive in tight corners.

The rest of the lap brought no surprises, only some more of the understeer in another decelerating sweeper. I pulled back into the pits and asked the mechanics for the setup of the car, mainly the front suspension. And they told me.

The main reason to the understeering is overly hard front dampers - they don't let the springs to compress quickly enough under braking, the weight shift causes the front tyres to overload (especially if the driver is turning the wheels at the same time) and the tyres lose grip. This is the only real gripe in the car and it's easily ironed out by softening the front dampers.
 
^ you are nuts. i tried that one and it tried to kill me.just thought you would like to know that. it has chronic oversteer.

ok, im making a volkswagen golf gti to pwnz0r a stock skyline. i already made an integra, but i think someone already did that.
 
you are nuts. i tried that one and it tried to kill me.just thought you would like to know that. it has chronic oversteer.
Not as nuts as one might think, the car is entirely drivable as long as it's set up correctly. Yes, it oversteers, but not to the degree you make it sound. I've used one to win the Normal level tarmac rallies and my MR2 only had 160 bhp at that time.
 
Regarding oversteer and tuning, I really have to start fresh- just as well nobody has noticed my early attempts- this is why.

I'm finding that driving with the Driving Force Pro is so different that none of my assumptions about tuning hold- they're all in a different context.

What's happening is this: I'm used to considering the car's stability and tendency to fishtail, but I use 200 degree mode, full force and no power steering on the DFP, and with this not only can I feel the grip as I apply pressure to the wheel, but also THE CAR STEERS INTO THE TURN when it fishtails. It's not that I need to throw the wheel around- when the car is not freaking out, it is actually applying its own anti-fishtail inputs! I have to guide them, not provide them.

This is such a huge change from DS and non-FF wheels that I'm still dealing with it. It made me able to win a race at Nurb for the first time (no matter that it's family cup -10, I wouldn't have been able to do even that before)

Some of my cars, like a couple of Miatas named Happy Kitten and Hellcat, seem to be quite happy with the new setup, but those had very stock suspension setups and N3 tires. I'd like feedback on what tires are most popular in tuner setups- are the default S2s popular, or is it obligatory to change to Ns? Does the N3 grip let go more abruptly than S2 or is it all one steady increase in grip? (edited- I meant Ns)

I'm looking forward to actually doing decent tuning, but I think I need to get some of the basics squared away first. Also, I've taken to tuning only cars I can get repeatedly- no prizes or used- or do used cars go back to the lot when you sell them?

I should just mimick the Mad Finns. If anyone's allowed to do that it would be me, my grandmother's name was Aili, so I qualify by birth ;)
 
Please don't do anything unwise... I don't want to get roaring drunk and then stab you because you said one wrong word to me. :P

Seriously, we've been plagiarized harshly once and the guy who did it hasn't been seen ever since. No idea what happened to him but I guess he understood he had lost the game.
 
I wouldn't be making silly jokes about it if I was going to actually try and do such a silly thing ;) what I've done is this: looked over the Finn cars to try and see what people CAN do and CAN'T do in tuning. What I'm seeing is this:

-cost no object, go win and sell more Mercedes race cars ;)

-tires are going to be either N3 for drifters and road cars, S3 for speed cars, or maybe sometimes R3 for the totally out of hand ones, but it seems like that's pushing it.

Get wings and fully configurable everything, the point is in how you set that stuff up, not how much performance you can get for X money (again, go and sell more Mercedes race cars until you don't care about money)

Lots of weight reduction, lots of turbos and stuff- cost is no object so it's more a matter of whether the car is simply overpowered, not how much the engine mods cost- also, whether it can respond to throttle or whether the turbo lag is too much. This is probably why I don't see a lot of Turbo 4. It makes me wonder what sort of cars might work with Turbo 4, considering that it would be very docile at low speeds because of turbo lag, but would kind of explode at speed :)

Don't worry, I am NOT going to copy and paste lots of Finn stuff. I'm just fooling around and steadily figuring out what I need to learn. I still think I'm a better tuner than a driver (not saying much!) but now I get to drive properly and my cars will, for the first time, translate to other DFP users, cockpit users etc. I think this is pretty awesome and don't need to fancy it up by imitating Finn 'promotional materials'.

Once I've dealt with a pile of business and tax paperwork and caught up on a bit of CD-mastering and plugin coding 'day job' work, I'll get back into the tuning and try to come up with some interesting cars worth trying out. I know one thing, this time I'm sticking to stuff people can just go out and buy and set up.

I'm tempted to try stuff that's real-world feasible: I have an old Buick Century with basically 'racing exhaust' IRL. Not because it's actually racing exhaust- it's just a glasspack muffler and stock cat- but because I have the air intake extended forward to the front engine compartment wall, the opposite hole sealed up with steel plates, so the grille air is forced through the radiator and/or into the air intake. Plus there's a K&R air filter replacing the stock one. It's the positioning of the air intake (almost like a scoop, another thing I'd like to try) that makes the engine get more power as highway speeds are reached. So some of the tunings I've done have been focussed on 'what could you actually do with the car if you had wrenches and stuff and a small amount of money for mufflers and air filters etc'.

But then, this is Gran Turismo 4. Why not be rich?

Anyway, it's an interesting part of the sim :)
 
Don't worry, I am NOT going to copy and paste lots of Finn stuff. I'm just fooling around and steadily figuring out what I need to learn. I still think I'm a better tuner than a driver (not saying much!) but now I get to drive properly and my cars will, for the first time, translate to other DFP users, cockpit users etc. I think this is pretty awesome and don't need to fancy it up by imitating Finn 'promotional materials'.

Once I've dealt with a pile of business and tax paperwork and caught up on a bit of CD-mastering and plugin coding 'day job' work, I'll get back into the tuning and try to come up with some interesting cars worth trying out. I know one thing, this time I'm sticking to stuff people can just go out and buy and set up.

Thank you for this interesting post Jinxtigr

What I want to say now to all beginning garage owners: Keep in mind to do your thing, be original. Tune cars because you like them, not just because they are fast. There are so many ways to tune a car, you can do a 30K budget tune, a what are the limits of this car? tune, a drift tune and many more. Do it your style, that makes things a lot more interesting for everyone.

My view is, it is a lot harder to be a successful tuner without mimicking the great Finns, but a lot more rewarding in the end.

@GT40 & more: The ViPP mustang has been updated, so if old American muscle is what you like, don't be afraid to write a review.
 
A few things: As cost is rarely an object, on turbo cars, always perform the background tuning first, as lag is rare with a stock turbo, and controlability is far better without lag, as there is no sudden jump in power.

Balance, balance, and balance. No use in having 1000hp if you can't use ut.

Tires: Test and tune the car on lesser tires than you plan on releasing it, as a car that corners well on cheap tires will just get better on grippier tires.
 
'04 Lotus Elise 111R

IMG0014-1.jpg
IMG0013-1.jpg

IMG0012-1.jpg
IMG0010-1.jpg


Specs:
HP: 326
Torque: 214ft-lbs
Weight: 782kg
Drivetrain: MR
Engine: L4
Displacement: 1796cc

Parts to Buy:
Racing Exhaust
Brake Controller
Port Polish
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
Full Custom Transmission
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Stage 3 Turbo
Full Custom Suspension
R2 Tires
Stage 1 Weight Reduction
Stage 2 Weight Reduction
Stage 3 Weight Reduction
Oil Change

Settings:
Front/Rear
Spring Rate:7.9/9.3
Ride Height:86/86
Shock Bound:7/7
Shock Rebound:9/9
Camber Angle:2.3/1.5
Toe Angle:0/0
Stabilizers:4/4

Gear Ratios Auto Set to: 14

Brakes:
Front/Rear
10/10

Driving Aids
ASM (oversteer):1
ASM (understeer):0
TCS:0
 
I've got my enthusiasm back because I have a great concept that I am enjoyink...

WE GO HUNTING MOOSE AND SQUIRREL!

That's right, I'm doing a pair of RUFs, 'Boris' and 'Natasha' :D these references are from the Rocky and Bullwinkle show, they're the big villains and spies and talk in exaggerated Eastern European accents. Perfect for a pair of crazy RUFs.

Boris is a dark grey BTR 'whale-tail' with stage 4 turbo and no wing, and the challenge is to make him wrestleable, because he's kind of totally insane. I also want to make him look BADASS which shouldn't be hard. I've done a 'boris' before, and there are ways to make him more predictable.

Natasha is a dark grey 3400 with stage 3 NA tuning, and she is a fast, fast woman. The trick will be making her irresistable and alluring. I was driving the Amuse S2000 R1 and it was amazing how gleefully you could fling it around corners- I'm shooting for that. Boris can't do that but he's a manaical experience all his own, and might never actually be as fast as Natasha in spite of the extreme power and top speed. Natasha might have it in her to become actually popular :)
 
Boris is a dark grey BTR 'whale-tail' with stage 4 turbo and no wing, and the challenge is to make him wrestleable, because he's kind of totally insane. I also want to make him look BADASS which shouldn't be hard. I've done a 'boris' before, and there are ways to make him more predictable.

Good luck with that one, you're going to need it and a lot! :dopey: If I'd be you, I'd start writing my last will.. :lol:

Natasha is a dark grey 3400 with stage 3 NA tuning, and she is a fast, fast woman. The trick will be making her irresistable and alluring. I was driving the Amuse S2000 R1 and it was amazing how gleefully you could fling it around corners- I'm shooting for that. Boris can't do that but he's a manaical experience all his own, and might never actually be as fast as Natasha in spite of the extreme power and top speed. Natasha might have it in her to become actually popular :)

I actually believe that this will work better. I'm not a fan of the headlights or frog-like looks, but the handling is almost on par with Toyota MR-S when it's stock. 👍
 
Hey, I've done it!

And driving mine is what made Blackbird tolerable enough to make a lap.

Something cool about those old Porsches.
 

Latest Posts

Back