Tuner Garages

Yep, that's the point of this thread. First make a post as your garage, then post cars and make links to the car posts in your garage post. Easy as that. 👍

Ah, thanks mate! I'll get right to it, then.

Was wondering where you'd run off to Kent! I totally agree with you there - no sense reiterating what you spelled out so clearly, except to say:

Laptimes can NOT be a deciding factor except in very specific cases. These cases being:

-Two tuners entering the same car, using the same parts. (or if using different parts, where the car using inferior parts runs faster laps)
-Two cars that have nearly identical "feel" and similar power-to-weight figures

<edit> And welcome, setsunakute! If you enjoy tuning, you might also consider getting in on Phase 2 of our Vintage Tuner Cup! If you're interested, just check out the link in my sig - takes you to the introductory/regulations post a bit further back in this same thread.

Vintage Tuner Challenge Entrant; Club Racer Category

Chevrolet Corvette Stingray L46 350 (C3) '69
(579hp) (744Nm) (1266kg) (2.187 WPR)



Parts to buy:

RC Brakes
Brake Balance Controller
NA Tuning stage 3
Port Polish Heads
Engine Balancing
RC Computer Chip
FC Suspension
FC Gearbox
Triple Clutch
RC Flywheel
FC LSD
Carbon Driveshaft
R2 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Rigidity Increase
Oil Change
Rear Wing
Rims (optional)

Settings:

Brake Balance: 3/4

Suspension:
Spring Rates: 6.5/5.0
Ride Height: 89/89
Damper (Bound): 4/4
Damper (Rebound): 8/8
Camber: 3.0/2.5
Toe: -1/2
Stabiliser: 5/3

Gear Ratios: First set auto, then set each individual gear ratio
Auto: 19
1st: 2.328
2nd: 1.494
3rd: 1.108
4th: 0.865
5th: 0.681
Final: 3.600

LSD:
Initial: 7
Acceleration: 50
Deceleration: 25

Downforce: 30/30

All Driving Aids 0

Here is the C3 Club Racer I've been waiting a long time to enter, good brakes, reasonably stable with a strong hint of power oversteer. And a nice quick ride, anyone can make a car with low power handle good on race tyres, this takes good tuning and a smart driver. Enjoy.

CraftyLandShark

And welcome, setsunakute! If you enjoy tuning, you might also consider getting in on Phase 2 of our Vintage Tuner Cup! If you're interested, just check out the link in my sig - takes you to the introductory/regulations post a bit further back in this same thread.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the warm welcome, mate. I've got no plans to tune competitively, but I may take up on your offer for a future event.

Thanks again.

The combination of weight transfer through that curve and the high rear camber make it look like the rear axle on that Vette is in the process of buckling...

...but since I took the picture, I suppose I can't really complain

I think it has more to do with the way the rear wheel arch slopes in front of the tyre. I don't think speed should be a deciding factor in the race cars, but it should play a role.

Currently working on a Celica... And it's not FWD or RWD.

I just have to hope that I don't get docked for "understeer" because people drive it wrong... If you modulate the throttle, the character of the car can be controlled; sometimes you can flat-foot it, other times you need half throttle slowly gaining until exit. All depends on the situation.

If I enter it.

The older AWD Celicas being rally cars, it's possible to emphasize on oversteer into a soft zero-countersteer powerslide.

Trust me, it's NOT. You can get it to slide, but it requires the car to be unstable under braking.

Adjust the LSD, then. Or lower the rear slighty in combination with stiffer spring rates. Did you install brake upgrades to cause the braking instability?

I have. And while I can MAKE it slide, it's much, much faster keeping the tires under it.

I'm going for grippiness at this point.

There's a hint of oversteer off throttle, so it works well now.

Is it a street tune or a race tune? From the sounds of it, you're probably building a pure race car.

Rotary Junkie

Currently working on a Celica... And it's not FWD or RWD.

Click to expand...

Name the track RJ.....I am doing the EXACT same car and I'm not using the 10.0km model......YET. I can already give you some nice sprint stats too on S3 rubber with the current one, NO TCS and no nitrous.

0-100 = 4.3sec
0-160 = 9.4sec
1/4 mile = 12.43sec@185km/h

I just have to hope that I don't get docked for "understeer" because people drive it wrong... If you modulate the throttle, the character of the car can be controlled; sometimes you can flat-foot it, other times you need half throttle slowly gaining until exit. All depends on the situation.

If I enter it.

Click to expand...

I know what you mean, trying different settings with LSD/VCD/DF and camber to get the best turning (ie. understeer sucks!!)....it's a mongrel at GVS at the moment on some corners, I know that and the times are a couple of seconds faster to my Celica in this comp at the moment, which isn't good enough by far....compared to stock it's a lot better but not completely right.

Mafs!!

Mafs, I'm running on Trial Mountain at the moment, and I've managed about a 1:38 lap with some horrid driving. Something I've found is that a very loose rear diff is beneficial in this car... I'm using 5/7/5.

When I use an LSD in AWD cars, I've always had good results going weak in the back. More slip at the rear than the front, however slightly, equals more rear end rotation, equals marginally less understeer in lower gears. Speaking of which, you guys might try closer gearing through third as well, depending on what the power curve looks like. I've had really good luck on a few different AWD's that way.

If you're not careful, messing around with the LSDs for AWD cars will cause understeer in mid- and high-speed corners. Even if you've produced neutral handling entering slow corners, you may have traded off balance at the exit and turning at higher speeds.

setsunakute

If you're not careful, messing around with the LSDs for AWD cars will cause understeer in mid- and high-speed corners. Even if you've produced neutral handling entering slow corners, you may have traded off balance at the exit and turning at higher speeds.

Click to expand...

... well, yes, to some degree ... but the same can be said for ANY tuning method, part, or adjustment. It's always a balancing act with any setting on any car of any drivetrain, no more so in this case than in any other.

Specifications
Base car: '97 Toyota Supra RZ (JZA80)
Colour: Baltic Blue Metallic (Toyota code: 752)
Odometer at Purchase: ~37,900km

Power: 600ps/7000rpm
Torque: 77kgf·m/3500-4000rpm
Weight: 1510kg

Weight-to-Power Ratio: 2.52kg/ps
Weight-to-Torque Ratio: 19.61kg/kgf·m

Upgrades

• Exhaust & Air Filter: Sports
• Brakes
  • Brake Pads: -
  • Brake Bias Controller: -
    
• Engine
  • Port Polish: -
  • Engine Balancing: -
  • Displacement Up: -
    
  • Racing Chip: Sports
• Drivetrain
  • Transmission: -
  • Clutch: Twin-plate
  • Flywheel: -
  • LSD: 1-way
  • Carbon Propeller Shaft: -
    
• Forced Induction
  • Turbine Kit: Stage 3
  • Intercooler: Sports
• Suspension: Racing
• Tires
  • Normal: N3 Road
  • Sports: S1 Hard
  • Racing: -
• Other:
  • VCD Controller: -
  • Weight Reduction: -
  • Rollcage: -
  • Rigidity Refreshment: -
• GT Auto
  • Wheels: Yokohama 005 (Advan Model 5 - Gunmetal)
  • Rear Wing: 3D Type CB or 3D Type BB
    

Settings

• Suspension
  • Spring Rates (kg/mm)
    
    • Front: 8.2
    • Rear: 5.3
  • Ride Height (mm)
    
    • Front: 86
    • Rear: 86
  • Shock Absorbers (Bound)
    • Front: 6
    • Rear: 4
  • Shock Absorbers (Rebound)
    • Front: 7
    • Rear: 5
  • Camber (Negative Degrees)
    • Front: 2.3
    • Rear: 0.3
  • Toe (Degrees)
    • Front: -
    • Rear: -
  • Swaybar
    
    • Front: 3
    • Rear: 3
• Downforce
  • Front: 3
  • Rear: 6
    

Reference Typical Lap Times
Typical lap times with relaxed driving using N3 Road tires:

Tsukuba Circuit 2000: 1'03.0
Suzuka Circuit West Course: 1'26.0

Personal Remarks
The car is moderately driftable, but is sensitive to steering input under throttle (when using DualShock2 controller). Chassis rigidity is purposely soft. Relatively speaking, the suspension is quite mild and much effort was put into maintaining stability and control at the corner exit. Turbo lag is strong and torque surge can be very sudden. It will require an experienced driver to drive effectively, but it is a rewarding experience and fun to drive with so excessive amounts of torque.

The main purpose of this car is actually just to pay homage to M. Orido's privately-owned Supra, which was destroyed in an accident. Upgrade parts used in this build mimic as much as possible the real-life car (stock parts were kept intact where possible to abide by the real car). Orido's Ridox Supra can be seen in the following race:

Vintage Tuner Cup Entry; 1973-1980

KC Motorsport Alpine A110 Berlinette Rallye





306hp@6000 rpm
237lb.ft@5500 rpm (estimated peak torque - information not provided by GT4)
650kg / 2.125 WPR


The Alpine A110 1600S holds the distinction of being the world's first World Rally Champion. KC Motorsport loves this car, and now offers its reimagination of a homologation special for tarmac rallying.

Known in other parts of the world by many names, "Berlinette" and "Interlagos" among them, the A110 dominated the early 70's rally scene. Though the A110 began life in 1964 as a 1.1L and played host to a number of Renault and Lotus engines throughout its life, the ultimate expression of the breed is unquestionably the 1973 1600 VC, using the 1605cc Renault R17TS motor. This is the car, campaigned by Renault the same year it bought Alpine, that won the world's first World Rally Championship for Makers. It's been piloted by drivers as famous as Emerson Fittipaldi, and only fell from its reign of dominance upon the release of the Lancia Stratos, the world's first scratch-designed rally car.

We at KC Motorsport have given the car a thorough working-over; the Lotus-inspired steel backbone chassis is the only element that has been left alone. The engine has undergone a total modernization under rebuild, and a much more capable modern turbocharger mated with modern fuel injection pumps out an astonishing 306 horsepower at the flywheel. A lightweight 6-speed racing gearbox transmits torque through a sophisticated rear differential, allowing just enough of the car's tailhappy soul to remain while producing fantastic amounts of grip. The suspension has been tossed out in favor of a rebuilt independent double-wishbone setup from an A310, and the largest racing discs we could cram in the wheel wells provide deceleration. A rear wing and chin spoiler carefully tailored to suit the car's lines add even more grip, and lightweight modern materials bring the car's weight down to about the heft of a fingernail clipping.

The result is a total transformation. Whereas the original A110's main goal in life was to put its tail in front of it, the Berlinette Rallye is composed, balanced, easy to drive, and most of all, FAST - in fact, likely neck-and-neck with the KC Motorsport Elan and a scant few others as the fastest (semi)road-legal car of its displacement in the world. Stability and weight transfer are exceedingly balanced for a rear-engined car. Turn-in and follow-through are smooth and connected. The motor produces one of the most directly linear power and torque bands we've ever seen, relegating power oversteer to right at the redline, where it's easily controllable and very usable. All the gears are accessable - even 1st gear doesn't produce much wheelspin to speak of. At full throttle in 1st, drivers using automatic gearing may get caught on the rev limiter reaching for 2nd, but this is easily remedied by a moment's partial lift. The only word of advice to manual drivers is this: due to the linear powerband, if you let your revs drop too low, you WILL experience turbo lag. Simply downshift to avoid this. The brakes are tuned to allow two different approaches to corners. Get on them easily at first, increasing pressure approaching turn-in, and it will behave like any other mid- or rear-engined sportscar. Get on them HARD at the outset and you can create some thrilling rotation to carry a brutal drift through the apex.

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Parts List
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RC Exhaust
Racing Brakes, Brake Balance Controller
Port Polish, Engine Balancing, Racing Chip
Stage 3 Turbo
FC Transmission
Triple-Plated Clutch
RC Flywheel
FC LSD
FC Suspension
Stage 3 Weight Reduction, NO RIGIDITY INCREASE
S3 Tires
Oil Change
Wing

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Settings
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BBC: 5/9

Spring Rates: 4.0/7.5
Ride Height: 74/84
Damper (Bound): 3/7
Damper (Rebound): 5/9
Camber: 3.0/2.0
Toe: 1/0
Stabilizers: 3/5

Downforce: 30/30
Differential: 5/37/8

Weight Balance: Ballast Weight '0'; Front/Rear Balance '50'

Gearing:

Perform the tranny trick first (Max out Final Drive, set Autoset to 25 then back to 1). Set Final Drive to 3.400. Set each ratio as follows.

---(1) 2.215 / 1.650 / 1.335 / 1.116 / 0.949 / 0.816 (6)---

Giving your Supra a test in a few mins, setsunakute. I have to say, I have a feeling it's going to be WAY WAY too much power for the tires, but we shall see!

Obviously KC Motorsport has strong ties with Aussie Tuners, so we bought an Alpine A110 in your specs and put it on our dyno, it made 322Nm with 306hp at the flywheel. I suppose you already knew that, but I think the dyno read-out in the settings menu is normally reliable.

Does it give you a peak torque rev value?

The garage screen shows it (When viewing the car, options to get in or sell).

Not on the Alpine - it's one of those odd ones that has a "---" in that spot. I had to get the numeric value from the powerband blowup screen in the settings menu.

<edit> at least in NTSC

CraftyLandShark

Giving your Supra a test in a few mins, setsunakute. I have to say, I have a feeling it's going to be WAY WAY too much power for the tires, but we shall see!

Click to expand...

Lmao, yup. I made it purely to pay homage to the real-life Ridox Supra. (I've edited my post to include more background on the car.) I used to follow news and articles on Orido's Supra a few years ago before it was destroyed, and used that knowledge to put together this car; Orido liked his car's ridiculous amount of power and it didn't seem to bother him when he used it in even street races on street radials.


Video is from Volume 5 of my favourite television show, Best Motoring. All cars used not-road-legal, off-road only sports tires in this race (the equivalent of around S1 Hard or S2 Medium Sports tires in GT4).

P.S.: any chance I can get the high-resolution version of this photo?

CraftyLandShark

Does it give you a peak torque rev value?

Click to expand...

No sorry, I never realised that it was the rev value you were estimating.

CraftyLandShark

Not on the Alpine - it's one of those odd ones that has a "---" in that spot. I had to get the numeric value from the powerband blowup screen in the settings menu.

<edit> at least in NTSC

Click to expand...

Ahh, okay.

Ridox Supra quick impressions:

Yeah... RIDICULOUS amounts of power for the tires - burned 'em all the way through 3rd. I tested on Tsukuba as that's where your benchmark time suggested. On N3's with a few quick laps I was able to run low 1'02's and one high 1'01, but it was painful to achieve. Controlling all that wheelspin is doable, but DEFINITELY a chore. I know you're going for a relatively cheap street racer-ish tune, but since you already dropped the credits on the boyracer wing, why not use a higher angle of attack all around to reduce more of that wheelspin and make braking and cornering easier? There's plenty of brute power to overwhelm whatever marginal extra drag there might be.

Speaking of brute power - here's something interesting to consider. After testing yours with the stage 3 turbo, I popped on a stage 2, and otherwise left the car the same. I ran almost EXACTLY the same times at Tsukuba (and ran them much more consistently), AND stayed hooked up under WOT in third gear. The drift angle was much more controllable, and cornering became much easier.

And instead of the twin-plate clutch, I might consider staying stock on that and opting for the flywheel instead. The power loss at gear change of the stock clutch might actually work to the car's benefit, producing less wheelspin right after the change-up since less torque would be hitting the road. That's just a theory though, I didn't test it. The crazed torque curve might actually make the reverse true.

Aside from the power delivery/grip issues it isn't all that bad. The suspension settings are solid, aside from some rather nasty lift-under that I'm sure more front downforce and/or grippier tires and/or less power would cure.

<edit> I'm pretty sure I've already deleted the full-size version of that pic off my flash drive... sorry man!