What have you done to your car today?

Yes. The parts cost me £225, including a £90 optional part (which isn't really optional - they fail the second they're not under tension). To get it done at a garage would cost around £770.

And yes, the engine is currently mainly supported by an engine lift. One of the mounts must come out, or you're not getting the cambelt on in the first place.

The entire job is borderline gynaecology - except removing the crankshaft pulley which is physically impossible unless you are the lovechild of Chuck Norris and Jack Bauer.
 
Discovered that the new distributor added 2mph to my 'limited' top speed. I hit 117 today! I think the alternator needs a warranty replacement already. Whenever it's pushed hard, I get a rattling, like something's knocking on the exhaust mani heat shield, but physically pushing down on the alternator stops it. I'll take a closer look in the morning.
 
Reducing weight

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Good condition,not so much rust to fix

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Daily driver.

Chassis: Fix the rusty parts, spot welding, undercoating, painting, strut bar(s)

Suspension: Already have short stiffened shocks/springs,Aluminum sway bar brackets with PA6 polybushes, longer front wishbones, rose joint traction arms in front(need to buy that)

Brakes: Standard, renewed.

Gearbox: Short ratio differential, probably 4 speed (long ratio 5 speed was on the car originally)

Engine: Plans were 1100cc with 274° cam, but didn't got the cam so probably putting 1400cc engine with 244° cam, lightened flywheel.

Exterior:Respray, find plastic bits like bumpers etc that are in good condition or new.
Fixed rear side windows from old "Jugo" and rear window without heaters also from old "Jugo". Maybe one pair of taillights also from old "Jugo".

Later on,fiberglass hood and boot lid, 4-1 pipe header, better cam, maybe Dell'orto DHLA40 carbs, a cage. Who knows, all depends on money.
 
homeforsummer
I've sworn at mine a lot today. Think I might actually have to bite the bullet on this clutch cylinder job and have it taken to a garage. The bolts holding the cylinder to the bellhousing seem to be rounding off far too easily (twenty years of road grime, water, clutch fluid and all sorts of stuff eating into the metal probably has the effect of making them a bit "soft") and I don't want to take them past the point of no return. Luckily I'm in a financial position at the moment where I can afford to have the job done, so hopefully I'll get it done and dusted in the next week or so.
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You can do what i've had to do before, buy a file and file that thing down to a smaller size! :)
 
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Fitted my drilled discs and new pads, will look better once they bed in and become shiny :D





Left side took over an hour and the right side I did in 20mins btw the impact screwdriver is a brilliant invention :D
 
a112
Daily driver.

Chassis: Fix the rusty parts, spot welding, undercoating, painting, strut bar(s)

Suspension: Already have short stiffened shocks/springs,Aluminum sway bar brackets with PA6 polybushes, longer front wishbones, rose joint traction arms in front(need to buy that)

Brakes: Standard, renewed.

Gearbox: Short ratio differential, probably 4 speed (long ratio 5 speed was on the car originally)

Engine: Plans were 1100cc with 274° cam, but didn't got the cam so probably putting 1400cc engine with 244° cam, lightened flywheel.

Exterior:Respray, find plastic bits like bumpers etc that are in good condition or new.
Fixed rear side windows from old "Jugo" and rear window without heaters also from old "Jugo". Maybe one pair of taillights also from old "Jugo".

Later on,fiberglass hood and boot lid, 4-1 pipe header, better cam, maybe Dell'orto DHLA40 carbs, a cage. Who knows, all depends on money.
Click to expand...

:lol: do you know that Jugo in spanish is Juice? :lol:

And that Dell'orto in spanish is written and sounds like, ''From the ass'':sly:

On the car, i think it would be nice to keep it clean, a style like something between german and racing 👍
 
I put a can on the Accord tonight. Literally. A Full Throttle energy drink can. Cut out the top and bottom, perforated it a bit, jammed it over the muffler outlet, and now I sound like a ricer. It even sticks out from the bumper several inches. Tomorrow night shall be entertaining. I'm keeping it on while I go to work tomorrow, too.
 
Finally got around to retuning my propane kit:
2010lynx01.jpg


No that's not me. That's a technician at the LPG-installer, retrimming the propane injectors. They run off the stock gasoline injector maps, with extra duration added to make up for the lower energy content. We added a ton of duration (500 milliseconds on propane compared to 360 ms on gas) and still got some flat spots. Told them to leave it at that.

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What happens if you have a high pressure radiator cap and forget to tell the technicians not to open it when hot? You get nice coolant stains all over your engine bay.

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Here's a close-up of the propane solenoids (red, above strutbar) and the propane fuel filter (brass, by breather...) The breather is there because I'm trying to trace a vacuum leak, and I'm eliminating all the usual suspects. Yes, my vacuum lines are a mess of T-fittings and different lines. When I have the time, I'm replacing all of them with high-quality silicone.

Retuned computer number two (LPG computer is computer number three... stock ECU is computer number one), my Unichip Q piggyback at home. Took away some timing advance at low rpms and it seemed to help running on propane. Which is counter-intuitive, since propane loves timing advance. Still not perfect. Going to try two or three different maps with different timing to see which propane likes best. Need to do this with a separate piggyback because the LPG computer doesn't do timing.

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Propane switch. Yes, it's ghetto. And yes, the car is pretty damn dirty.

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At least I had it waxed.

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Brake dust? With performance pads and cross-drilled brakes, it can get pretty nasty! :lol:

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Puny tip, eh? Funny thing is, it's 2.5" wide. I wanted the flow without looking like a dork. There's a straight-through can behind that stock-looking tip. (Which looks more stock than the stock tip did)

Car still sounds dorky, though:


Youtube doesn't do it justice. It sounds deep, bassy and sexy here. In real life, the flex-pipe razzes, the trim rattles, and the thing drones like a Civic at part-throttle on the highway. :lol:
 
chepu
:lol: do you know that Jugo in spanish is Juice? :lol:

And that Dell'orto in spanish is written and sounds like, ''From the ass'':sly:

On the car, i think it would be nice to keep it clean, a style like something between german and racing 👍
Click to expand...

:dopey: Hahaha,that made me laugh so much,didn't knew that facts.
Well,we'll see how it will turn up eventually. 👍
 
Slick Rick
Engine note sounds good but a bit lazy, its like it doesnt want to rev :lol:
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A cold engine and cams with crazy overlap (without cam gears, it doesn't idle at all) will do that. Also note that I took away some low rpm timing, so it's not making optimum power at low revs... it's pulled about three degrees back from optimum under 3000 rpm. The cams only really start to pull at 4,500 rpm.
 
Whoops.

After the cambelt change, we noticed a flat spot in the powerband. Fearing the worst, an investigation revealed an intake part was perished. Luckily, we have a spares car and his intake part was almost brand new. Fixed!

So Red now has a new cambelt, AC belt, PAS belt, all 6 sparks (Denso Iridium), fuel, oil and air filters, fresh oil and some nice spanky HT leads.

And here's where the "Whoops" comes in. The guy I bought the MX-6 gearbox (£50) from is selling various bits he bought for his ZE but never got around to fitting. Chief amongst which was (£100) a pair of stainless 3-1 manifolds and a stainless downpipe - to go with my catback stainless exhaust.

So, they're being fitted at a local tyre place when they fit the new Toyos :D (also, I found I can have a Toyo brand spacesaver spare...). Then I think it's over for a quick rolly-road tune and then on to find the nearest tunnel...
 
Went back to summer mode, if we get another snow fall I'll just drive the S-10. I'm at about 40% trend on my "summer" tires so I'm thinking they'll be fairly toast by mid summer and I can replace them with proper summer tires.
 
Went for a fast drive through Poudre Canyon and literally scared the crap out of my friend doing nearly twice the speed limit through the turns... yes, he had to visit the loo. Which is saying something. He's a pretty crazy dude, and drove the hell out of his cars back before he lost his license over a year ago. He was holding on for dear life; it's been a while since he's been with me in the mountains. I'll try to post the video and pics tomorrow, the road is sick. The 'tranny slip' problem seems to have magically worked itself out, so the LSD is working properly and I can spin both front tires now. It was probably an axle not seated right or worn out, but they're both getting replaced soon anyway.

The tranny was acting up a bit though in town, not downshifting when I floored it (an auto, obviously). It only lasted a few minutes, but I'm actually considering getting a manual in my next Accord. I was liking the sleeperness of the slush box, but the electronics drive me nuts sometimes.
 
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Old Accord + old autotragic = headaches... at least in my experience. Swap a manual box into that car. :lol: What motor you got in her?
 
CyborgGT
^ Factory F22A1. Once I get a new Accord, I plan to swap in a JDM H22A (197bhp) from a 4th-gen Prelude Si VTEC. Hmotorsonline.com offers just about everything I need (except a USDM downpipe and some minor harness mods) for just over 2 grand. They promise an average of 35k miles on all their motors, too. Sweet deal, no?

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30017
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I've gotten kinda scared away from the whole JDM engine thing. When I was looking at possible swaps for my mr2 I read many horror stories about sludged up 20v 4ages.

From what I understand most people in Japan know they won't have the car much longer the 30k miles or so due to taxes, fees or whatever. So essentially they fail to perform proper maintenence on the engines, a big one being not changing the oil. And at least for toyotas this makes for a nice sludged up engine. I only assume it would be similar for others.

How's this for a 30k mile engine?

DSC00256.jpg


I'm sure none of you remember but a while ago I was supposed to be buying an 1985 mr2 with 20v from my cousin, here's the thread . He had just purchased it from some kid in KC. I was a little skeptical on the deal when my cousin bought it and I wanted him to at least see if the guy would remove the valve cover for us. He wasn't worried.

Needless to say soon after he bought the car I did some digging and found that indeed his engine was plagued by the slugde. No way in hell was I gonnna buy it from him after that. I felt kinda bad cause my cousin bought the car knowing I wanted it from him, then I backed out on the deal.

Anyways, i'd say if you're gonna get a JDM engine always see if you can get some pics under the valve cover and maybe oil pan and inspect them as much as possible. Or better yet find a local dealer so you can check it out with your own eyes.
 
Holy hell, thanks for the tip. I'll ask around at the Accord forum I frequent. Hmotors is a fairly popular and reliable site, but I'll have to see if anyone's run into similar problems.
 
casey_2005
I've gotten kinda scared away from the whole JDM engine thing. When I was looking at possible swaps for my mr2 I read many horror stories about sludged up 20v 4ages.

From what I understand most people in Japan know they won't have the car much longer the 30k miles or so due to taxes, fees or whatever. So essentially they fail to perform proper maintenence on the engines, a big one being not changing the oil. And at least for toyotas this makes for a nice sludged up engine. I only assume it would be similar for others.

How's this for a 30k mile engine?

DSC00256.jpg


I'm sure none of you remember but a while ago I was supposed to be buying an 1985 mr2 with 20v from my cousin, here's the thread . He had just purchased it from some kid in KC. I was a little skeptical on the deal when my cousin bought it and I wanted him to at least see if the guy would remove the valve cover for us. He wasn't worried.

Needless to say soon after he bought the car I did some digging and found that indeed his engine was plagued by the slugde. No way in hell was I gonnna buy it from him after that. I felt kinda bad cause my cousin bought the car knowing I wanted it from him, then I backed out on the deal.

Anyways, i'd say if you're gonna get a JDM engine always see if you can get some pics under the valve cover and maybe oil pan and inspect them as much as possible. Or better yet find a local dealer so you can check it out with your own eyes.
Click to expand...

It's got sludge because it's a Toyota. :lol:

But seriously, JDM engines are a crapshoot if you're buying the engine sight unseen... but if you get a chance to inspect it beforehand, it's all good.

Japanese don't whale on their cars because they know they're going to replace them. In fact, the costly inspections tend to make them more careful about maintenance (unless they're rich enough to afford a new car every three years).
 
niky
It's got sludge because it's a Toyota. :lol:
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Haha, I knew someone would crack a joke about toyota and there sludge. :)

niky
Japanese don't whale on their cars because they know they're going to replace them. In fact, the costly inspections tend to make them more careful about maintenance (unless they're rich enough to afford a new car every three years).
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I just based that off alot of the stories i've read and people's explanations. My bad. 👍
 
Hmmm thats pretty interesting Casey:tup: Wouldnt an engine flush and a proper oil change get rid of the sludge? Or is it an issue of what the sludge has already done to the engine? Also what is the negative of having sludge like that in the engine, soz if it seems obvious but im not a car expert im just wondering...
 

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