Precision Motorsports - Maserati GranTurismo S, RUF BTR, RUF CTR2 Released!

Project41

My personal preference is for a car to oversteer because I hate the sensation that you can't turn that comes with understeer. Although some feel this makes a car unpredictable or unstable, I enjoy it.

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Project41

Tommy Kaira ZZII '00

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Kurei

I saw this tune of yours about a week ago, and decided to keep an eye out for the car in the UCD, and finally got one yesterday and plan to test this soon, I'm usually the In-house driver for MFT, but I couldn't resist the pics of it in that nice red

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YassirNosir

I am just popping in to say your Maserati tune is fantastic. Keep up the awesome work. 👍


Definitely get some more premium model cars tuned in your garage.

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Project41

Hey thanks I'm glad you liked it, have any premium models in mind? I was thinking about tuning a TVR Tamora.

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Kurei

Tommy Kaira ZZII '00 - Review

Well first and foremost, this car is fast, real freaking fast.

Packing 700+HP in a nearly 900KG car, is 1 of 2 things depending on who’s driving, it can either be one of the quickest cars in anyone’s garage at a fraction of the others price, or it can be a trap waiting for 1 mis-calculation to happen before taking you into the wall on its own accord.

But that’s not to say it automatically doesn’t belong if your new to GT, because this is still a beautifully sculpted car, standard or not, the front end is it’s own unique profile, leading to the roof with its cleaver intakes that channel along the sloped back, and the car’s profile from the side is nothing to scoff at either.

But as a performer, this easily blows a lot, and I mean A LOT of the others out of the water in terms of being outright quick, I know the setup calls for Racing Softs, but to be honest, ‘anything’ will stick with soft tires, which could very well hide a defect or blemish in its handling and a driver could never be none-the-wiser, so I decided to test the car on Medium’s instead to get a more raw and respective experience with the car.

From the courses I ran at, GVS east, SSR5 full, La Sarthe w/ chicanes and then GVS full, the car was quite manageable and easy to drive, excellent turn-in, spilt second throttle-response , and with its low weight, holding the car to the apex was quite easy as there isn’t much to pull it out of line (momentum, weight over-loaded tires, etc).

But I did notice a issue in the corner entry and exit departments. With my DFGT, I noticed that when entering and coming out of corners while getting on/off the power, I can feel the car can suffer from a noticeable amount of scrub-understeer, where you can still feel traction, but its not guiding the car as it should and instead lets it ‘laz-out’ towards the outer part of the track’s surface. I think I know the reason for this, and there are 2 parts to it.
The first is downforce, I know the downforce is maxed out on the front already, but compared to how much can be applied to the rear, it’s not as much as it could use. Second reason is weight distribution, look at a typical GT-R, engine in front to place weight on front tires, but in the ZZII, its mounted a-midship, taking that weight away from the front where it could be used to press the tires into the road and get more traction from them. If more downforce could be applied to the front, this could probably controlled better, but with what is offered in the tuning menu, only so much can be done.

But don’t take my above thoughts as saying the car is tuned incorrectly or anything, it’s just the car’s design and nature that are really influencing the raw character, and some aspects a tuner just can’t change (for now), but how it’s been setup has really tamed the potential this car has to offer, making it a welcome fighter to a skilled driver’s garage rather than a wall smasher, and to do so with what this car is packing under the sheet metal, really takes some finesse and dedication to get it right. I have a feeling I’ll be driving this one more often, well done. 👍

On a sidenote, have you looked to see if adding a front splitter increases the range of downforce in front ?, I can’t imagine PD thought of it, but if it works, then hey, 1 more thing they got right out of everything else that is wrong.

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SubaruWrXSt!

You guys nailed it with the Oullim Spirra. I managed to get a 6'56 with it on the nordschleife with 333hp. No aids and using soft slicks. You guys just made this car one of my favorites to use. Thank you guys so much. P.S please make a tune for a '90 RX7 GTX (FC). You guys are awesome!

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SubaruWrXSt!

Edit. Your tunes are godly. I wish we could custom make stickers. Precision Motorsports would sponsor all my favorite cars. Anyways thanks again for all the tunes. Looking forward for some more.

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Project41

Hey thanks man, I really appreciate your kind words, it really means a lot to me. Any car you would like to see tuned? I can try to work my magic on something. I've been incredibly busy lately and now I've been snowed in going on day three.. yikes.

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SubaruWrXSt!

Ah. You already got started on the FC RX7 lol. But hey take your time. Off topic, how did you learn how to tune?

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• Determine the top speed for the car for the track you wish to tune the car for. My cars are tuned to be used for a variety of tracks so I usually set my top speed relatively higher than it could be for some tracks. Just run the car on the longest straight away to to determine the right top speed for the transmission.
• Next, lower the car and adjust the brake bias. Not too low, especially if you are tuning for a track that has a lot of abrupt bumps and elevation changes. In addition, for race cars, very little lowering should be done and cars with high standard ride heights should usually be fully lowered. Brake balance can be used to cause oversteer or understeer and is much of a personal preference. More front bias will lead to understeer, but more stopping power. More rear bias will lead to oversteer, but can cause the car to spin out and reduces the stopping power.
• Stiffen the suspension, the amount depends on the car and how much you lowered the car. General rule is the more you lower the ride height, the stiffer the suspension should be. In addition, having the front or rear suspension more stiff will affect how the car handles, with having a stiffer front suspension causing understeer, and having a stiffer rear suspension causing oversteer.
• Next, I rough in the suspension dampers, LSD, and aerodynamics. Although kind of a complicated step, at this point in the tuning process you should have a feel for how the car behaves and its flaws. Dampers are similar to the spring rate in the since that stiffer rear dampers will lead to oversteer and stiffer front dampers will lead to understeer. As a general rule, extension dampers should usually be stronger than compression dampers. Next, the LSD will usually be lowered to allow for more turn in and less understeer when accelerating and decelerating. Start with a low initial value, a moderate acceleration value, and a lower braking value. Lastly if aerodynamics are present, max the aerodynamics. In reality this would cause excessive drag on the straightaway, however this usually does not seem to be the case in GT5. Sometimes the aerodynamic will need to be tweaked. Try all your roughed in settings and tweak if the car went a step backwards.
• After that last large step, I usually dial in the camber and toe angles for the car. Camber should always be present, and I'd recommend increasing the front and rear levels by 0.5 until you find the right combination. Toe angles should be tweaked to adjust the tendency of the car.
• Adjust anti roll bars. This can be adjusted at many points throughout tuning process, but usually a stronger rear bar will cause the car to turn in more rapidly. Too much could lead to other problems and excessive oversteer.
• Last step, fine tune the LSD, suspension settings, camber, and toe angles. At this point you should have a good roughed in suspension and LSD. Also, the aerodynamics, transmission, brakes, and ride height should be finalized. Each stage you should run the car to determine the affects of the previous step. Undo any changes that do not help the car and start that step over. A good suggestion would be to only tune one value between testing the car and to make small adjustments. If you are not willing to spend some time with tuning a car, you may create a car that is better than stock, but it won't be the best setup.

BlueSky

Thanks very much for the incredible tunes for the RUF's. I really appreciate it! The tunes made these cars much more manageable. Any chance of a Yellow Bird tune in the future?

Thanks again for your time and dedication Project41!

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Project41

Yes I already owned a FC RX7, and I just kind of took time to learn the ins and outs of GT5 tuning. I'll give you a quick break down of how I usually try tuning a car.

• Determine the top speed for the car for the track you wish to tune the car for. My cars are tuned to be used for a variety of tracks so I usually set my top speed relatively higher than it could be for some tracks. Just run the car on the longest straight away to to determine the right top speed for the transmission.
• Next, lower the car and adjust the brake bias. Not too low, especially if you are tuning for a track that has a lot of abrupt bumps and elevation changes. In addition, for race cars, very little lowering should be done and cars with high standard ride heights should usually be fully lowered. Brake balance can be used to cause oversteer or understeer and is much of a personal preference. More front bias will lead to understeer, but more stopping power. More rear bias will lead to oversteer, but can cause the car to spin out and reduces the stopping power.
• Stiffen the suspension, the amount depends on the car and how much you lowered the car. General rule is the more you lower the ride height, the stiffer the suspension should be. In addition, having the front or rear suspension more stiff will affect how the car handles, with having a stiffer front suspension causing understeer, and having a stiffer rear suspension causing oversteer.
• Next, I rough in the suspension dampers, LSD, and aerodynamics. Although kind of a complicated step, at this point in the tuning process you should have a feel for how the car behaves and its flaws. Dampers are similar to the spring rate in the since that stiffer rear dampers will lead to oversteer and stiffer front dampers will lead to understeer. As a general rule, extension dampers should usually be stronger than compression dampers. Next, the LSD will usually be lowered to allow for more turn in and less understeer when accelerating and decelerating. Start with a low initial value, a moderate acceleration value, and a lower braking value. Lastly if aerodynamics are present, max the aerodynamics. In reality this would cause excessive drag on the straightaway, however this usually does not seem to be the case in GT5. Sometimes the aerodynamic will need to be tweaked. Try all your roughed in settings and tweak if the car went a step backwards.
• After that last large step, I usually dial in the camber and toe angles for the car. Camber should always be present, and I'd recommend increasing the front and rear levels by 0.5 until you find the right combination. Toe angles should be tweaked to adjust the tendency of the car.
• Adjust anti roll bars. This can be adjusted at many points throughout tuning process, but usually a stronger rear bar will cause the car to turn in more rapidly. Too much could lead to other problems and excessive oversteer.
• Last step, fine tune the LSD, suspension settings, camber, and toe angles. At this point you should have a good roughed in suspension and LSD. Also, the aerodynamics, transmission, brakes, and ride height should be finalized. Each stage you should run the car to determine the affects of the previous step. Undo any changes that do not help the car and start that step over. A good suggestion would be to only tune one value between testing the car and to make small adjustments. If you are not willing to spend some time with tuning a car, you may create a car that is better than stock, but it won't be the best setup.

Hope this helps, enjoy.



You're quite welcome, I can attempt to do a Yellow Bird tune soon, it probably will be tamed similarly to the BTR considering they are very similar cars.. but who knows with GT5's physics engine haha, it can be random at times. I was thinking about leaving the Yellow Bird at its original horsepower, but I don't know.

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Project41

You're quite welcome, I can attempt to do a Yellow Bird tune soon, it probably will be tamed similarly to the BTR considering they are very similar cars.. but who knows with GT5's physics engine haha, it can be random at times. I was thinking about leaving the Yellow Bird at its original horsepower, but I don't know.

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