- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
All tunes are created online(as of The Oreca Viper), Grip Real, DFGT, AT, ABS @ 1, with the Driving Line in Chase Cam. Maxed out on Racing Softs, unless stated otherwise.
I am not accepting requests. Please understand that I will only be tuning a very limited amount of cars.
I'll only be posting cars that I have spent extensive amounts of time on. Weeks, up to months of tuning, testing and tweaking.
I can't guarantee my tunes will work for everyone, but I can guarantee that any tune posted here, is faster than any other tune I've tried of the car to date, for my driving style.
I do a lot of testing and driving of others tunes. If I feel their tunes are faster and can not be improved upon, then I won't bother wasting anyone's time with something of a lower quality.
Perform a full review to have a quoted excerpt of key points added to 'User Feedback'. Lap times are encouraged as well and will be added to each tune in a leader board fashion.
Online
How to adapt my tunes to your personal preference:
1: Transmission Final Drive
Each gear is spaced as close as possible and the only adjustment you should need is the Final Drive to adapt to each track.
If one Final Drive is given: Reset to Default, Set Final, Set Top Speed, Set Individual Gears.
If two Final Drives are given: Reset to Default, Set Final 1, Set Top Speed, Set Final 2, Set Individual Gears.
2: Quick Fix: Ballast
The GT5 ballast function allows you to move weight without adding it to the car.
So, if you want to modify the tune, by adding oversteer or understeer, this is a quick and easy way to do it.
-50 is to the front of the car and will add understeer / Tight condition.
+50 is to the rear of the car and will add oversteer / Loose condition.
You can move it anywhere in between to fine tune the feel, that best suits your needs and style.
3: Brake Balance
I prefer a rear bias, for a few reasons, but mostly to avoid overheating the front tires before a turn.
It also helps to allow the front to rotate into the turn easier.
This setting can easily be adjusted to your preference without any issue.
4: LSD
Below is my explanation of the LSD system works in GT5.
Initial: Effects the cars stability throughout the entire turning process.
High Initial, usually means more understeer, better forward bite.
Lower Initial, usually means more agility, less acceleration.
*Use the highest Initial Setting possible, without experiencing understeer.
Acceleration: Effects the car under acceleration while exiting a corner and distributes the power between the inside and outside tires.
High Accel, usually means more outside tire spin.
Lower Accel, usually means more inside tire spin.
*Use the highest Accel Setting possible, without experiencing excessive outside wheel spin.
For longer races with tire wear, I recommend using lower numbers to prevent exaggerated wheel spin under low grip conditions experienced when tire life is lower.
For longer races with tire wear, I recommend using lower numbers to prevent exaggerated wheel spin under low grip conditions experienced when tire life is lower.
DeAcceleration: Effects the car while braking, coasting and entering turns.
Higher DeAccel, usually means more understeer on corner entry & coasting through the center.
Lower DeAccel, usually means better agility, but less stability, potential oversteer on entry.
*Use the lowest number possible, where you can safely drive-in as hard as you like, without losing control, or experiencing oversteer.
Final thoughts: Increasing or Lowering the Initial has a partial connection with Accel & DeAccel settings.
Since raising the Initial creates more 'lock' it will effect the balance of the Accel & DeAccel that you may have already tuned.
Another noteworthy aspect, is that many, many, different variables will effect your LSD balance. Including but not limited to:
Transmission Gearing, Downforce, Ride Height, Spring Rates, Brake Balance and so on.
So keep that in mind, when making other adjustments, that LSD balance may have been compromised.
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