Braking with ABS=off is impossible??

  • Thread starter FoxHound
  • 111 comments
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Yea its the same issue with the throttle sensitivity! No matter if you use a wheel or controller, stick or trigger the damn throttle indicator on screen shows 100% throttle at about 80% of pedal,stick,trigger travel! Also the cars begin bouncing off their rev limiter at only 30% throttle. Its really odd, the other day I just grabbed the controller and sat there watching the trigger and the on screen indicator, the first 5% of movement did nothing, then after pushing it in halfway the on screen indicator shows 75% throttle. Then I hit 100% without even pushing it in all the way.
The same for the brakes, but since the wheels lock up so easily with out adjustment that is an issue you have to fix first 👎 ON EVERY CAR... just mildly annoying having to spend 5 mins on every car set up before you can drive, and then never being able to launch off the line right, and I have serious issue being consistent with no ABS since the damn thing is set up so sensitive and inconsistently. :crazy:
 
Set brakes to 3-1 in dry or 3-2 in wet for road cars (road tyres) and 7-3 for dry and 6-4 in wet for race cars (race tyres). In both cases your personal settings may differ.

Turn off ABS and braking is very good.

The most important thing to remember is when you first start the game. Any time after the wheel finishes calibrating, fully depress both the accelerator and the brake pedals otherwise these pedals won't be calibrated and you end up with ridiculously sensitive brakes.
 
Tired Tyres
The most important thing to remember is when you first start the game. Any time after the wheel finishes calibrating, fully depress both the accelerator and the brake pedals otherwise these pedals won't be calibrated and you end up with ridiculously sensitive brakes.
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So, step by step:

- turn on ps3
- DFGT wheel calibrates
- launch GT5
- DFGT wheel calibrates again, and AFTER wheel calibration is complete:
- PRESS BOTH pedals at the SAME time to the max and then let go? Or should i hold them? And is pressing the pedals down once enough or should i do it multiple times one after another?


Thxn in advance!
 
Last step. I do the pedals one at a time. Just press them down fully (not too hard) and let go again.
 
ChadSpeed
Yea its the same issue with the throttle sensitivity! No matter if you use a wheel or controller, stick or trigger the damn throttle indicator on screen shows 100% throttle at about 80% of pedal,stick,trigger travel!
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If I depress the throttle pedal on my own Audi by 50% the engine will still reach maximum revs.

If I depress it by 100% the same will happen, it will just happen more quickly.

The percentage of throttle pedal travel is NOT related to the percentage of revs reached in real life... so why would it be in a game? I never get why people might think it would be!
 
K1LLD0z3R
Even with a wheel and pedals most use at least ABS 1.
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I hate to say it, but that's what I've been doing thus far. I have traction control set to zero, race line off, skid recovery (or whatever it's called) off, manual transmission, et cetera, and normally race with ABS off but in GT5 I presently have it set to 1 (almost off but not quite entirely). I had too much trouble with it set to 0 even if just blowing on the brake pedal, though I haven't had trouble braking with ABS off in Forza Motorsport 3 or F1 2010.
 
TenEightyOne
If I depress the throttle pedal on my own Audi by 50% the engine will still reach maximum revs.

If I depress it by 100% the same will happen, it will just happen more quickly.

The percentage of throttle pedal travel is NOT related to the percentage of revs reached in real life... so why would it be in a game? I never get why people might think it would be!
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Really? Maybe your Audi is an exception. None of may cars or bikes have ever done this. My Yamaha FZ1 sits at about 4,000 RPM with about 1/3 twist of throttle without bouncing off the limiter. My other cars I've had also never bounced off the limiter when launching. I've had a 03 Maxima, 06 Mazda 5. I have never needed to hold either at 50% to launch, but sometimes would hold brake and throttle to bring revs up, neither would bounce off limiter usually only hitting 5 or 6000 rpm. Sorry for going off topic.:ouch:
 
FoxHound
I currently do not own a wheel so i drive with de controller. I have TCS and all other aids turned off...including ABS.

But no matter how carefull i press the brake-button or to whatever button i map the brakes to, i CANNOT brake in a normal sense with ABS turned off (ABS=0)[/SIZE]
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Threshold braking (applying enough brake pressure that you don't lock the brakes, but get as close to doing so as you can) can't be done with a button on the controller. You need a decently sprung pedal to pull it off and modulate your braking appropriately. This isn't a lack of skill on your part, just a case of using an input device that isn't up to the task. If you're using a joypad, keep the ABS on.
 
To Chad Speed,
Take into account that the cars in the game are mostly high powered sports or supercars that are NOT ment to run at low revs, light-weight engine components let them spool up very quickly, even more so when not under load. This is why your real cars and bikes rev at a lower spool up speed i.e more throttle movment for more rev.
 
FoxHound
So, step by step:

- turn on ps3
- DFGT wheel calibrates
- launch GT5
- DFGT wheel calibrates again, and AFTER wheel calibration is complete:
- PRESS BOTH pedals at the SAME time to the max and then let go? Or should i hold them? And is pressing the pedals down once enough or should i do it multiple times one after another?


Thxn in advance!
Click to expand...

Do you need to do this for the Logitech G25 too?
 
Thanks for the tips to calibrate pedals while wheel is calibrating, I am too busy walking back to my seat, lol, from having plugging in the USB.

I have toyed with ABS to off on some occasions, and I love the feel of the car feeling like its about to explode under heavy braking, whilst maintaining proper momentum that is.

What I have started to incorporate into my driving style, is left & right foot driving. (is this heel toe?) , while breaking, I now always have my foot somewhere between 25-50% throttle, to "keep the lamborghini stabilized" while negotiating tricky sections, expecially Toscana night race, so many tricky corners coupled with elevation changes, the gas & brake combo driving has helped me reach 2:48 for the win, finally!

Perhaps someone can explain further, why the combination of gas while breaking, improves stability.. is this to prevent sudden changes to the car's handling? It's like having a "manual, hands-on LSD" it's great.
 
Using the gas while braking just reduces the harshness of the braking, as you're pushing the wheels to rotate both faster and slower at the same time. It's roughly like using less brake.

If you use a bit of gas just as you shift you can keep the pressure exerted on the wheels more stable, as shifting down and jumping to a very high RPM level tend to make the drive wheels want to lock up. The game does this for you, but I've found it to be a little too quick and you still get lock-up when using high revs, so doing it myself reduces it. It seems best if you can find the point just before your wheels lock and hold the brake there, then blip the throttle and let up a little on the brake during the downshifting.

The brakes are extremely sensitive in GT5, but if you are smooth with them it seems you can get more braking with less lock-up than if you try to immediately go to the maximum amount of brake pedal you can use(without insta-locking). Try to roll the brakes on, kind of like the throttle, but different :).
 
I use a wheel/pedals and just can't seem to get ABS=0 to work for me either. I drive with all other assists off, but ABS set to 1. I tried for a long time to use ABS at 0 and found it to be very obnoxious. Based on some race cars that I have driven, I don't feel ABS on 0 is all that realistic. There is no feeling in the pedal nor in your seat that you would get in a real car. I found my braking set at 0 to be inconsistent and almost random in terms of lock up and spin out. With all of the other assists off, this game has plenty to offer in terms of keeping you on the edge of your seat. I personally would not sweat having it set to 1.
 
Phoenix®;4370248
Try braking in a straight line, then ease off the brakes before you turn in. easy as pie.
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This. 👍

I have a Sixaxis and use the x and square button, and have found that the above advice from Phoeonix, as well as adjusting your brake balance (way down, like, 3-1 on the FGT) helps best. One of the major points of ABS is that you can turn while braking. The higher the setting, the easier to turn, but with less braking power (that is from the Apex book).

Braking in a straight line was key for me. Dang centrifugal force.

That being said, I usually have ABS set at 1 -- there is no point in killing yourself; remember it's supposed to be fun:)
 
I can use abs at 0 now. I use a 1-0 setting and still have lock ups, but easier to control and makes it easier to set your car in a corner.
 
ChadSpeed
I can use abs at 0 now. I use a 1-0 setting and still have lock ups, but easier to control and makes it easier to set your car in a corner.
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You'll stop a LOT faster if you turn them up higher than that, but you then have to deal with finding out how much brake you can use without locking. For braking while turning, just a light little touch on them will usually do the trick.

I tried running at extremely low brake pressure for less lock-up in corners, but got sick really fast of having to hit the brakes 2 seconds earlier than I should in order to get stopped in the heavy braking zones. It does take some practice. Would probably be a good idea to get comfortable with the technique using low pressure and then start experimenting with cranking it up, but you'll have to readjust your finger/foot as you go.
 
Pedal-Force
Threshold braking is possible, but very, very hard to do in a game. It really takes brake pedal feel and seat of your pants feel.

I try to threshold brake but I still usually leave ABS on 1, even using a G27.
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I usually try and threshold brake when I play GT5 too, but it's difficult without ABS, especially with a G25 like mine.
 

and



4 layers on the accelerator and 8 layers on the brakes, Fine tune the brake bias, usually 6/4 to 7/5 depending on track and car. If you get everything right you will have a fantastic braking performance. With BB 6/4 The brake indicator would stay at around 80% under heavy braking for most of the time, with the 8 layer resistance, it must be possible to lock the brakes applying more force on the analog stick and going up to 85-95% , if you can easy go from 80 to 95 and 100 % of brake force then the resistance is to weak or worn out.

Its all about the feel of the resistance.

You may also want to add an extra acceleration button to help with the stability under heavy braking in places like Monza.
 
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I did the NASCAR events in A-Spec with no ABS and a DS3. I didn't realize it at first and first corner Laguna Seca I plowed the field. The rest of the race was actually pretty successful. I locked a few times but was able to keep the car pointed straight.

Since, I've been trying it a lot more with my G25. Not good enough to take it online, but some good lapping nonetheless.
 
FoxHound
I currently do not own a wheel so i drive with de controller. I have TCS and all other aids turned off...including ABS.

But no matter how carefull i press the brake-button or to whatever button i map the brakes to, i CANNOT brake in a normal sense with ABS turned off (ABS=0)

(i tried using the right analog stick for braking because you can 'dose' the braking...i also tried it using the triggers of the controller because they are more easily used in a dose-dependant matter than the normal buttons.....but neither of these solutions kind of work. Using the analog stick works slightley better though....but it still needs to be handled with SO much care).

When turning ABS off and using the analog stick to accelerate/brake....i have to brake way to early before the corner in order to NOT block the wheels. Any further 'braking' with the stick results in blocking of the wheels and thus spinning the crap out of the corner.

It seems impossible to brake with ABS turned off in combination with the controller.

My question is: Is this normal when using the controller or am I doing something wrong? (i really tried to brake with much care...but i just can't seem to get used to it......of course i can NOT block the wheels when braking, but then i need to brake way before the braking-point of the corner....and thus lose lots of precious lap-time).

Is there any 'option' or so to fix this?

How does braking with ABS=off handle with a steering wheel + peddals?


Thnx much in advance!


PS: i'm sorry if this is in the wrong forum...but i thought it would be best to fit here since i didn't know where else to put it.
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Okay....now more than one year later, my findings on the braking with ABS = off (since december 2010 i have a DFGT as you can read a few posts after the initial startpost).

I've been playing GT5 for a year with a DFGT now with ABS = 0 all the time. It took me two to three full months to be able to handel any car with ABS = 0 (i admit i don't have much time to play, so it could be done in a shorter amount of time), i.e.; the old classic cars to the high powered racing machines.

There is a big difference in playing with a DS3 controller and wheel/pedals (while ABS = off). It still isn't very easy with a wheel/pedal to handle braking, but once practiced enough and got used to, you can brake as effective as with ABS = 1.

I noticed between some cars (all stock and ABS = off) even with brake bias = 5/5, there is a slight difference in amount of pressure needed to lock the wheels while braking. This finding gives driving that specific car a very unique feel, and you'll immediately notice it once you're used to ABS = off. It really is an awesome feeling. It takes a lap or two with that car to adjust to it's braking. Of course, this brake bias difference can be corrected by manually changing the brake bias in the settings menu.

I do enjoy driving much much more rewarding with ABS = off. It really takes the game to a whole new level, and with a wheel/pedal, you can literally feel when the wheels are locking.

I just read the complete thread all over, and noticed there are people who still set ABS = 1, despite having a wheel. To these people i say: "Please set ABS = off and give it more time to get used to it. Don't turn it on no matter what, even online. No matter how hard it is, don't give up and stay motivated to learn to play without it. Once it becomes second nature to drive with ABS = off, you'll enjoy the game much much much much more!! I guarantee you that!." :).


Man i love this game....
 
When GT5 was released, trying to go without ABS was a very, very bad idea. Even with a wheel you had very little warning as to when you'd hit lock and compensating for lock once hit wasn't an easy task either.

Now, it's not bad. You get some form of warning before the tires lock, and if they do you can compensate for it fairly easily by just breathing off the brakes slightly... Instead of nearly completely lifting as it was before Spec II.
 
I have played with ABS Off for a few races with PAD, and It's not impossible, just harder, but you´ll be as fast as always without it and I personally like the handling of the car without it, It seems more realistic, but It's harder to maintain the rythm in a race, I´ll try to drive always with ABS Off with my new Driving Force GT when I get my PS3 back...

It's all about getting used to it :) Keep Trying!

Greetz!
 
A couple of months back I started using ABS= 0 and now I couldn't go back. The fact that, with 2.02, you can hear when you're brakes are about to lock from the increased tyre noise, makes it much easier. Also I find that when using a Subaru or something 4WD and stable you can brake late and stay on the brake as you turn sliding the car through the lower speed corners then stamp on the throttle to pull out of the slide, it also helps to adjust the torque balance to at least 60-40. I've found this to be really valuable in short shuffle races and has helped me find an extra second or so over my rivals.
 

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