TH8RS, DSD, etc. to Fanatec Adapter - BasherBoards SFA1
- Thread starter mrbasher
- 366 comments
- 50,618 views
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Ok, I just took a look at pCars...
Unfortunately this seems to be a bit of a driver limitation on the part of Fanatec. 2nd gear and upshift are seen as the same button. If they were seen as different buttons, as they apparently are on the console, this would not be an issue.
So, the short of it is, 7th gear on the shifter won't work in windows. I'm very sorry about this. You will need to use one of the paddle shifters to get the car into 7th.
I'm updating my website now to reflect this.
Later, I will be adding something to the firmware to make 7th gear work properly on the ClubSport Wheel, as it supports this natively.
Unfortunately this seems to be a bit of a driver limitation on the part of Fanatec. 2nd gear and upshift are seen as the same button. If they were seen as different buttons, as they apparently are on the console, this would not be an issue.
So, the short of it is, 7th gear on the shifter won't work in windows. I'm very sorry about this. You will need to use one of the paddle shifters to get the car into 7th.
I'm updating my website now to reflect this.
Later, I will be adding something to the firmware to make 7th gear work properly on the ClubSport Wheel, as it supports this natively.
Last edited:
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
I've editted this with new info:
I will tell you that it is definitely a firmware issue. (this also means it might get fixed some day) Let me try to explain:
I have a program that can read the data directly as it comes in from the wheel (or any other USB device). While running this program and shifting through the gears, I can see the data change. When putting the shifter in second gear, the byte data for second gear shows up. When shifting into 7th, the byte data for second gear shows up as well. However, there is another byte of data that changes along with this, signifying that it was a sequential shift.
The short of it is that the wheel is sending the data to windows in order for this to work, but it's not formatted correctly. It's not sending it as a "button" being pressed, but instead as something else.
I expect that at some point the Fanatec driver/firmware will support it... But don't hold your breath
I will tell you that it is definitely a firmware issue. (this also means it might get fixed some day) Let me try to explain:
I have a program that can read the data directly as it comes in from the wheel (or any other USB device). While running this program and shifting through the gears, I can see the data change. When putting the shifter in second gear, the byte data for second gear shows up. When shifting into 7th, the byte data for second gear shows up as well. However, there is another byte of data that changes along with this, signifying that it was a sequential shift.
The short of it is that the wheel is sending the data to windows in order for this to work, but it's not formatted correctly. It's not sending it as a "button" being pressed, but instead as something else.
I expect that at some point the Fanatec driver/firmware will support it... But don't hold your breath
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- 7
- Winnipeg
I was able to do some mods to my shifter this week while waiting for my sfa1 to come in. I machined a new plate to shorten the engagement and ommit the 7th gear, I also cut down the rod to shorten the length and drilled and tapped the end to fit my unused csr elite sequential knob. I made a model for the plate in solid edge, so if I get some more aluminium plates and some free time I maybe able to make more.
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
Very nice work! 👍 I have an extra H-shifter knob from broken CSR, no use for it here, PM me if you are interested in it.
Spent most of my day re-working my "beast" 8020 mount to hard mount the TH8 RS to it, finally found an elegant solution, and I was able to tuck all the excess USB cabling from the shifter inside the 2"x2" vertical support...
...and was able to mount the SFA1 to the outside.
Before:
AFTER:
AFTER:
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- 66
- United States
Ordered mine as well to use for Forza. Can't wait to get it and test it out.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
A new version of the firmware is coming out this evening. I will send out an email to people that have purchased these that will include instructions for the update. It's a simple process.
I should add... It's highly recommend that you perform the update.
I should add... It's highly recommend that you perform the update.
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- 136
- Kingston
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Thanks MrBasher
No problem, you should thank Spike as well. He was the one that prompted the update and did most of the testing as well!
- 136
- Kingston
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Version 1.1 of the firmware is now available here: http://www.basherboards.com/SFA1_Firmware
I recommend that you update to this firmware at your earliest convenience.
I recommend that you update to this firmware at your earliest convenience.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
There will be as more versions are released. Previous stable versions will remain available on that page as well. For the time being the following is all I have released on the firmware page:
Current Version Information: 7th gear functionality on the TH8RS shifter was removed in version 1.1. It will be added back later pending more research and development. Much of the code was rewritten in this version to increase efficiency, accuracy and add stability. It is HIGHLY recommended that you update your SFA1 to this version.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Excellent! Thank you to both of you for letting us know how it went.
12thgear,
To be a little more specific. The firmware update fixed a intermittent bug when the TH8RS is in sequential mode. While working to fix the issue I determined a much more efficient way of handling the data in both modes. Making this change will help prevent errors in both modes going forward as well as increase the responsiveness of the adapter to the shifter inputs.
12thgear,
To be a little more specific. The firmware update fixed a intermittent bug when the TH8RS is in sequential mode. While working to fix the issue I determined a much more efficient way of handling the data in both modes. Making this change will help prevent errors in both modes going forward as well as increase the responsiveness of the adapter to the shifter inputs.
JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
Seems as if the SFA1 Fanatec Wheel/TH8RS shifter combo supports auto clutch in GT5. After GT5 loads the track and your car is on the track, do not use the clutch when you shift via the TH8RS for the first time. The car will now shift without the clutch.
Was not understanding some of the GT5 TT times I saw with H-shifter, but GranTurismo.net's handy leaderboard filters cleared that up, it parses H-shifter times with and without the clutch.
Was not understanding some of the GT5 TT times I saw with H-shifter, but GranTurismo.net's handy leaderboard filters cleared that up, it parses H-shifter times with and without the clutch.
- 258
- Jamaica
- boesermensch
Jon, thanks a lot for the SFA1 and the nice support!
I finally received my shifter, so the first thing, I did was taking the Audi Quattro S2 to a tight track with short transmission setup.
You can imagine, that the grin, this monster left to my face held up until the next morning ;-)
This to date is the finest way, to ride such cars in a simulator on track - beautiful!
It showed me, that now I have to modify the abysmal standard steering wheel of the Fanatec CSR-Elite.
This rim is now the real weak spot of my rig …
Btw - do you see any chance, to run the firmware upgrades natively on a Mac? I have no windows PC in reach around here :-(
I finally received my shifter, so the first thing, I did was taking the Audi Quattro S2 to a tight track with short transmission setup.
You can imagine, that the grin, this monster left to my face held up until the next morning ;-)
This to date is the finest way, to ride such cars in a simulator on track - beautiful!
It showed me, that now I have to modify the abysmal standard steering wheel of the Fanatec CSR-Elite.
This rim is now the real weak spot of my rig …
Btw - do you see any chance, to run the firmware upgrades natively on a Mac? I have no windows PC in reach around here :-(
- 7
- Winnipeg
Received my SFA1 yesterday did the firmware update and as expected everything worked perfectly. Great product great support!
- 66
- United States
EDIT:
Talking to Mr. Basher who assured me my adapter is just fine. Lets hope I can get the setup working again.
Talking to Mr. Basher who assured me my adapter is just fine. Lets hope I can get the setup working again.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
I think you emailed me about your issue ninjajimmy... (sorry, I don't have a coralation between online names and real names for most people)
I wrote back with some instructions. Sorry for the late response, I am on the West Coast and was asleep when you send in your inquiry.
I wrote back with some instructions. Sorry for the late response, I am on the West Coast and was asleep when you send in your inquiry.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Awesome
Love hearing this stuff! Thank you both for posting about your experience.Except the Mac part
I had thought that may be an issue for some folks. I will do some research and see what I can come up with, though it may not be soon I am afraid. I have a Mac I can test with at least, so that's a start.- 66
- United States
I think you emailed me about your issue ninjajimmy... (sorry, I don't have a coralation between online names and real names for most people)
I wrote back with some instructions. Sorry for the late response, I am on the West Coast and was asleep when you send in your inquiry.
Yep it was me. I shot you another back. 👍 Thanks for the fast responses to all my emails and questions. Definitely appreciated. Hoping I was just super tired and not doing something correctly. I'll follow up when I can get back home.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
So, I haven't fixed ninjajimmy's adapter yet, like me he has a job. However, I will put up some details here that may help others going forward:
Little green blinking lights
Some of you may have noticed that the hole around the shifter USB port on the adapter is a little larger than necessary. Almost like an accident I suppose... However, if you take a look at the holes for the other connections, they are nice and tight... Well, the end where the shifter plugs in was made larger for a good reason! Inside there are some little lights that give an indication of what is going on with the adapter. I will spare you the details of why they are not on the outside, but cost and annoyance to the customer are the main reasons.
If the light is blinking, that means the microcontroller inside is trying to communicate with the shifter. If it is lit solid, that means something is "stuck."
I have not given out this info because really, it's not that helpful to the customer for the most part. However, if you look in there and it's not blinking, see the "It's not working!" section below.
So, that's the short story on the green blinking inside the magic box.
Power...
First off, as long an Xbox is plugged in, it's providing power to it's USB ports. This is probably so that you can turn on the box with the controller. The PS3 may do the same, I'd have to check. Just keep that in mind when you are thinking you may have turned off the adapter to reset it. Turning the console off won't reset the adapter.
I'm going to be a little technical here, just warning you...
Inside the adapter are two chips that provide the necessary outputs to simulate the Fanatec shifter. For these to work properly, they need to know what the voltage coming from the wheel is. It also does this so it doesn't output a voltage to the wheel that is too high for it to handle on it's shifter port. Because the chips inside the adapter work so efficiently, sometimes residual power from the wheel will keep the adapter running, sort of. As an example: (do not do this...)
You have your wheel on, adapter plugged into it and it's working great.
You unplug the power from the adapter for some reason, but leave the wheel on.
Then you plug the power back into the adapter.
It stops working...
This happens because the wheel provided JUST enough power to prevent the adapter from actually powering down and resetting properly, but not enough to actually make it run. When power is returned to the adapter, it gets stuck. Technically speaking, the shifter itself isn't recognized at this point. So you may see blinking inside the adapter, but it's not actually talking.
Which leads us to...
"It's not working!"
Here's the short answer to your problems... Follow the instructions that came with your SFA1, start from scratch with it completely unplugged from everything. Unless your dog ate it, you ran over it with a car, squirted pop inside it, or basically physically broke it... it'll work.
Here's some steps if you don't feel like digging those out:
1. Turn off the wheel
2. Unplug the SFA1 from the wheel
3. Unplug the power cable from the SFA1
4. Plug the power cable back into the SFA1
5. Plug the SFA1 back into the wheel
6. Turn on the wheel
7. Calibrate the shifter on the wheel
8. Turn off the wheel
9. Turn on the wheel
10. Test
The first thing to try though, is just hit the reset button on the SFA1. Doing that will often get it working again. Not always, but often. That's what it's there for. Just press it lightly until you hear/feel a click, then release.
Last thing... TH8RS
If you are using the TH8RS, which you probably are... and none of the above worked... Attached the shifter to your computer and check to make sure it actually still has it's firmware. I don't know the details of this but I had one user that was not able to get things working. He finally plugged the shifter into his PC and it told him that it needed to reflash the firmware on the shifter. He did that and all was well again. This is probably rare and shouldn't be the first thing you check. However, I thought I would mention it.
I will be putting all this and more up on my site in the near future.
However, I will put up some details here that may help others going forward:Little green blinking lights
Some of you may have noticed that the hole around the shifter USB port on the adapter is a little larger than necessary. Almost like an accident I suppose... However, if you take a look at the holes for the other connections, they are nice and tight... Well, the end where the shifter plugs in was made larger for a good reason!
Inside there are some little lights that give an indication of what is going on with the adapter. I will spare you the details of why they are not on the outside, but cost and annoyance to the customer are the main reasons. If the light is blinking, that means the microcontroller inside is trying to communicate with the shifter. If it is lit solid, that means something is "stuck."
I have not given out this info because really, it's not that helpful to the customer for the most part. However, if you look in there and it's not blinking, see the "It's not working!" section below.
So, that's the short story on the green blinking inside the magic box.
Power...
First off, as long an Xbox is plugged in, it's providing power to it's USB ports. This is probably so that you can turn on the box with the controller. The PS3 may do the same, I'd have to check. Just keep that in mind when you are thinking you may have turned off the adapter to reset it. Turning the console off won't reset the adapter.
I'm going to be a little technical here, just warning you...
Inside the adapter are two chips that provide the necessary outputs to simulate the Fanatec shifter. For these to work properly, they need to know what the voltage coming from the wheel is. It also does this so it doesn't output a voltage to the wheel that is too high for it to handle on it's shifter port. Because the chips inside the adapter work so efficiently, sometimes residual power from the wheel will keep the adapter running, sort of. As an example: (do not do this...)
You have your wheel on, adapter plugged into it and it's working great.
You unplug the power from the adapter for some reason, but leave the wheel on.
Then you plug the power back into the adapter.
It stops working...
This happens because the wheel provided JUST enough power to prevent the adapter from actually powering down and resetting properly, but not enough to actually make it run. When power is returned to the adapter, it gets stuck. Technically speaking, the shifter itself isn't recognized at this point. So you may see blinking inside the adapter, but it's not actually talking.
Which leads us to...
"It's not working!"
Here's the short answer to your problems... Follow the instructions that came with your SFA1, start from scratch with it completely unplugged from everything. Unless your dog ate it, you ran over it with a car, squirted pop inside it, or basically physically broke it... it'll work.
Here's some steps if you don't feel like digging those out:
1. Turn off the wheel
2. Unplug the SFA1 from the wheel
3. Unplug the power cable from the SFA1
4. Plug the power cable back into the SFA1
5. Plug the SFA1 back into the wheel
6. Turn on the wheel
7. Calibrate the shifter on the wheel
8. Turn off the wheel
9. Turn on the wheel
10. Test
The first thing to try though, is just hit the reset button on the SFA1. Doing that will often get it working again. Not always, but often. That's what it's there for. Just press it lightly until you hear/feel a click, then release.
Last thing... TH8RS
If you are using the TH8RS, which you probably are... and none of the above worked... Attached the shifter to your computer and check to make sure it actually still has it's firmware. I don't know the details of this but I had one user that was not able to get things working. He finally plugged the shifter into his PC and it told him that it needed to reflash the firmware on the shifter. He did that and all was well again. This is probably rare and shouldn't be the first thing you check. However, I thought I would mention it.
I will be putting all this and more up on my site in the near future.
- 559
- Southampton Hants UK
- magicayrton
Mr Basher please contact me, I wish to order an adapter.
Many thanks!
Many thanks!
- 66
- United States
So I did what you said and no luck
Still not working. I made sure everything was unplugged from each other to start with and then did this as follows:
I turned on Xbox
Plugged the shifter into the SFA1
Plugged the SFA1 into power from Xbox
Plugged the SFA1 into the wheel
Turned on wheel
Booted into PC mode and configured shifter
Exited configuration menu and shut wheel down
Unplugged the USB to PC cable from wheel and turned it back on
Put wheel into xbox mode
logged into my profile and started Forza 4
Nada...
I made a video though once in game. When i'm not touching anything you can hear the clutch sound and see the driver going for the shifter as if I was clutching. I'm not touching anything (pedals, shifter, wheel, nada). If I do try to use the paddles it may go into gear but will come right back to neutral.
If I unplug the SFA1 adapter from the wheel the odd clutch behaviour goes away and I can shift using the clutch and the paddles without issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CURxF8RtqXI&feature=plcp
I don't know what to do from here. I can check the firmware on the shifter, but I can't imagine that is the issue. Is it possible to try and configure the shifter in XBox mode? Standby mode?
Still not working. I made sure everything was unplugged from each other to start with and then did this as follows:
I turned on Xbox
Plugged the shifter into the SFA1
Plugged the SFA1 into power from Xbox
Plugged the SFA1 into the wheel
Turned on wheel
Booted into PC mode and configured shifter
Exited configuration menu and shut wheel down
Unplugged the USB to PC cable from wheel and turned it back on
Put wheel into xbox mode
logged into my profile and started Forza 4
Nada...
I made a video though once in game. When i'm not touching anything you can hear the clutch sound and see the driver going for the shifter as if I was clutching. I'm not touching anything (pedals, shifter, wheel, nada). If I do try to use the paddles it may go into gear but will come right back to neutral.
If I unplug the SFA1 adapter from the wheel the odd clutch behaviour goes away and I can shift using the clutch and the paddles without issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CURxF8RtqXI&feature=plcp
I don't know what to do from here. I can check the firmware on the shifter, but I can't imagine that is the issue. Is it possible to try and configure the shifter in XBox mode? Standby mode?
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